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Found 99 results

  1. Trying to find more information and photos about the line of telephones Atari was working on in the early 1980s. It's fascinating stuff, but Atari Museum has very little information. Does anyone know where the prototypes have gone (thinking the trash, but hoping otherwise)? Are there more, higher quality photos? Did the kiosk ever make it out of the Atari offices? Thanks all!
  2. From the album: Yes my collection

    I always find myself using this controller over all the average joysticks I have because compared to those it's very fluent. I bought this from whoever sold their Atari XEGS to me. I'd have to say whoever made this deserves an award of some sort. It's just great.
  3. Hi everyone. I sold this Atari 400 with 410 recorder on eBay with no only a power cable, no plug attached. The buyer purchased an additionally required cable to hook up to a screen and when he turned on this appears on the screen. The eBayer 100% knows what they are doing and said if I partially refund then he will get it fixed. He only paid £50 for it. Is this a case of cleaning the inside with some alcohol and putting it back together? System hasn’t been used in...25 years. Many thanks for your help.
  4. We are readying our next release of newly developed Odyssey hardware and games: OdysseyNow Game Pack 2! The largest focus will be on hardware, as this will contain the most consequential hardware add-on in the Odyssey’s history. It will make new games possible, as well as have a major impact on many existing games. We call it the English Splitter. In the original Odyssey controller, three knobs and one button control every aspect of the player spots and the ball. The problem is that the human body only possesses two hands, and thus we can operate a maximum of two knobs simultaneously. This affects every Odyssey ball game, as the hand and brain must “switch gears” from controlling the Vertical knob to controlling the English knob (ball spin). This gap of time involved slows down the games. One of the greatest Odyssey ball games, Volleyball, is terribly hindered by this: there just isn’t enough time to lunge after the ball, hit it, then switch to the English knob fast enough to direct the ball over the net and then down into the opposite court. As a result, the game has to be played on a relatively low ball speed. The English Splitter is a device that plugs into your controller socket (there’s one for the Left and one for the Right; each is electronically equivalent but physically different). Each English Splitter is connected by a cable to a special English Controller, which contains one knob and one button. The Splitter also contains a duplicate controller port into which you plug your original controller. Thus when both Left and Right Splitters are plugged in, you will have four controllers in total. Each Splitter contains a switch that turns the English Controller on or off. When on, it takes over control of the English knob from the main controller (turning the main controller English knob will have no effect, but turning the knob on the English controller will give that player full control over ball spin). When the Splitter’s switch is turned off, full control is transferred back to the main controller. This way you will never have to plug and unplug your controllers and Splitters in order to instantly switch between classic and split modes. In addition, the yellow button on each English Controller allows the holder of that controller to serve the ball. This makes it possible for a single player to, for instance, return the ball to their own side without requiring possession of the other player’s main controller. This can be used in the original game Submarine or the OdysseyNow game Tannhauser Gate, for instance, to greatly ease gameplay. The English Splitter system can also be used to multiply the number of players from 2 to 4. Any ball game can now be played with 3 or 4 players, with English control transferred to a second player on each team. It can be used to great effect in nearly any ball game. Our new version of Volleyball, Team Volleyball, makes full use of this capability: Note: This image is a simulation. Our game comes with a half-height overlay. In addition to Team Volleyball, this game pack includes Danceoff, a new ball game that is meant to be played for the duration of one pop song. It involves attempting to “knock” the opposing side’s dancers off the dancefloor. This game can be played 2-player, but when played with 4 players using the English Controllers, it becomes a team dance in which one player defends the team’s dancers while the other goes after those on the opposing side. The dancers are plastic chips that are physically stuck to the overlay and removed as they are defeated. Before the game begins, players may either choose a pattern for their dancers to occupy or randomly generate their positions with two included, color-coded dice. The third game included in this game pack is a reproduction of the rarest of all original Odyssey games: Soccer. Soccer was only released as a bundled game with some European releases of the Odyssey. Because the Odyssey did not do well in Europe, and not many sets have been preserved, the game is almost impossible to find. We have lovingly reproduced the overlay, instructions, and dual-wheel scoreboard in all of their detail, allowing this game to be played by a new generation. Note, however, that our scoreboard is 85% of the size of the original. We had to made it slightly smaller to be cost effective to produce, and to fit in our tube box. The overlay is reproduced with filled-out corners for a rectangular shape, to better fit more contemporary televisions. However, the original rounded contour is preserved as a thin line in the overlay, so players may cut out the original shape if they wish. The English Splitter sounds deceptively simple, but inside it is anything but: the unique analog nature of the Odyssey makes simple pass-through circuits impossible, and multiple versions of this device failed before a year of development finally lead to the breakthrough (specially implemented diode logic) that made it possible. It is also very time consuming and expensive (using obsolete, discontinued components) to manufacture, or we would be able to make more and charge less! In order to get the most out of Team Volleyball (or even regular Volleyball), this Pack comes with a Wall Height Adjustment kit. This is an optional upgrade. It requires two solder points on the Odyssey’s motherboard, and some hot glue for the final adjustment pot. It is an easy upgrade to perform and comes with fully illustrated instructions. When used with the Team Volleyball overlay, you can adjust your wall height to exact spec. Most Odysseys are well out of spec for wall height, which can greatly diminish this game. This game pack confers a couple of advantages to Tannhauser Gate, for owners of OdysseyNow Game Pack 1. First, you can adjust the height of the open gate with the Wall Height adjustment. Second, the Scan player can utilize an English controller to return their ball without needing to reach over and utilize the Explore player’s controller. We have several more amazing games in development that make special use of the English Splitters. Those will appear sometime in the future. Because our last game pack sold out within a few hours of being posted, we’re trying to manage this release a little more equitably, in two tiers. The notice for the first 10 copies will be posted in the OdysseyNow Facebook group (only), to give that community the best chance of picking these up. We're letting everyone know this in advance, to give you time to join that group and turn your notifications on so you are ready. Once those copies are gone, we'll post elsewhere (such as in this forum). At that time, anyone who wants one will have to let us know (very briefly) why/where/who. We'll give it a few days to ensure that more people will know about this in time, then select the homes we think will be happiest, and then process payments. This will also help us get to know more of you better! We will produce only 15 of these sets in total. Stay tuned to the Facebook group for orders to open soon! https://www.facebook.com/groups/odysseynow/
  5. Need some help guys, I dusted off my old 4 switch from its 20+ year slumber only to find out that it does not work properly. When I turn it on, sometimes there is a red screen or sometimes just a black creen when it is powered up. I want to try and fix it instead of getting another one from ebay. I replaced the tia, riot and 6507 with tested working ones and I was getting the same results. After some probing I noticed that about 4 of the data lines had a very low voltage. It did not seem like the lines had a short and there was some voltage. What could possibly cause this? Dont want to see this one go; any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I have started doing some modding on my Game Gear about 2 months ago and its been pretty fun and exciting (successful LED backlight mod and battery replacement for the Powerback so far. WOOT!). I started looking into a 50hz/60hz mod for the GG VA1 board to play my PAL master system games on by following various posts switching the NTSC pin from the Sega 315-5535 to a 5V source. After going through the Service Manuals (http://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:service_manual_-_game_gear_va1.pdf) and other posts, I am having a very silly issue: Where is Pin 118 on the Sega 315-5535 IC? I see some possible spots on the other side of the chip, but I don't want to start chopping leads before knowing exactly which pin I'm sending a 5V signal to. I'm modifying a USA VA1 837-9024 Game Gear board. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I've tried some other communities to find this information and I've found the AtariAge community to be very helpful in the past. Take care guys !
  7. I still have the orig Playstation I purchased in 1996. It's worked quite well over the years. I modded it long ago. A year or so ago the occasional CD would not load or load slowly. I assumed drive was about to give up the ghost. Then the machine wouldn't spin at all and the display would flicker repeatedly. I assumed a PSU failure had taken place -- replace it with an eBay unit (with a blue LED) and that problem went away. But the CD-ROM drive problem got worse. Finally I couldn't load anything. It sounded like a spin issue. So, I bought a replacement new mechanism on eBay and installed it. I hear spinning and seeking, but the spinning doesn't last as long as it should and the seeking sounds stuttered -- as if it's having trouble focusing - not normal. So I looked and there was no other seller of such parts so I rolled the dice and purchased ANOTHER mechanism from the same guy and it's the same thing. Spinning that slows down -- I can hear like 5 spins per second before it stops, and it won't load anything. The seek sound sounds labored also. This is the unit and vendor I twice purchased for my SCPH-1001: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OPTICAL-LASER-LENS-MECHANISM-for-SONY-Playstation-SCPH-1001/360534474878 Does anyone have any advice here? For whatever reason I'd like to keep this unit working rather than buying a used, modded PS1. Thanks. bp
  8. So now that I got my P.E. box going again, I am thinking I should acquire a SAMS card... I know the raw boards and components are sold on ArcadeShopper's site, but as I have stated previously, I am not a hardware person. I just would like to buy it already assembled and good to go. Anyone have one to sell, or know where I can get it? Also, I presume they are sold bare-board, since the clamshell cases would be an unnecessary expense. Is it possible to put one into the TI's 32k Memory expansion clamshell?
  9. Hey all, A question... has anyone laid out the necessary hardware to make use of a Lotharek drive for the TI? I can see that the base model emulates a 3 1/2" drive, my questions would be: 1) Does it work without any modifications with a classic TI or Corcomp FDC? Or do you have to do some kind of hardware upgrade? 2) Does anyone have 5 1/4" frames for the 3 1/2" footprint so it's not just hanging in your box? 3) What other equipment do you need? My present PE Box has two classic 5 1/4" drives in it, so it's got the big power cable connectors. I assume for a 3 1/2" you'd need a converter? I'm NOT a hardware guy, I do not and will never own a soldering iron, so it would be good to know if this is an area I should or should not pursue, lest I end up ranting and raving on the forums in mad frustration.
  10. I want to burn my own ROMs for my new game. I know Atariage and others will do it for you but I just want the experience and I like messing with hardware. I have created other carts for other systems so I have some experience. I have found where I can get a board and burn up to 16k carts. What i want to know is if making a SC cart or a DPC+ cart is doable or desirable. can you get the chips, boards etc.. I haven't found a good answer due to me inexperience with 2600 carts. thx to all you 2600 hardware gurus out there.
  11. I have a '99 that I fitted with a F18a some months back. I've used it a good many hours without issue, and some of that was online through TIMXT with a WiFi232 -- so the keyboard has been working fine. I'd not used the TI in a few weeks and turned it on and noticed in the FlashROM '99 menu that certain keys were not working. Those keys are: HJKL; and SPACE Press normal, hard, etc. and they don't register -- TI BASIC, TIMXT, Forth, etc. But, I left the machine on for a while and I notice they keys now do work...but you need to press them just a little harder than "normal" for them to trigger, and when you do, they usually repeat a few times. One depress of 'K' results in 'KKKK' and such. So something is really strange here. I assume the hardware heating up is the change, but the repeat action baffles me. Can anyone make anything out of this? I see no other oddities with the system. I disconnected my PEB and that had no effect on the situation. Is this a specific IC failing? Or...? Thanks. bp
  12. How does inserting a cartridge trigger a console reset, electrically? I know that putting -5V to RESET will reset the console, but I thought that at some point those -5V need to go away again. Looking at a TI cart I basically see this: . Vss Vdd RESET | | | | | | +---??---+---R---+ . What's that mystery component -- looks like a (Zener?) diode? I assume that this will put RESET on Vss after a while, but how does it work? And how do the Super Carts handle this? It seems the red board just permanently connects -5V to RESET?! (BTW, I'm totally confused by negative voltages. Is -5V = Vdd still considered "high", with Vss being "low"?)
  13. EDIT: ALL GONE. THANKS! EDIT: LOWER PRICES Hello all, I have the following items for sale. Shipping will be extra and at cost and I use priority mail in the US. PM me if you want anything, and thanks for looking. [Atari 2600] Boxed and Signed Stunt Cycle from Philly Classic 3 #10/50 BEST OFFER ON HOLD [XBox One] Halo 5 sealed $20 SOLD [Vectrex] Vectopia complete $20 SOLD -------- Everything below is NOW $4 Each -------- [Atari 2600] Slik Stik Joystick Slik Stik Joystick Wico Command Controller [Commodore 64] Access The LipStik Plus Headset - Voice Activated Fire Button Suncom Animation Station Graphics Tablet (untested, was working when last used) Commodore 1530 C2N Datasette Tape Drive (untested, was working when last used) SOLD [sega Genesis] Sega Four Player Multi-tap [Atari 5200] Atari Trackball (non working) Most of the buttons work, but the trackball itself, while moving fine, doesn't send any data to the console. SOLD [Amiga] 520 TV Adapter SOLD Master 3A1 3rd Party External Floppy Drive (presumed not working, the light came on but my Amiga 2000 could not see the drive last time I checked) SOLD [Xbox 360] Akai Katana (complete) - US version SOLD DoDonPachi SaiDaiOuJou (complete) - Japan Version but region free SOLD
  14. There is a new firmware available for the F18A, V1.6. It fixes a subtle bug related to sprites and includes many new features that I hope will be utilized. If you have an F18A in your 99/4A there is a in-system software update available (requires a CF7/nanoPEB or disk system that can handle about 250K of files). I posted the full details in the F18A Resource thread here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/207586-f18a-programming-info-and-resources/page-12?do=findComment&comment=3226312
  15. Hey everyone, I have been toying around with developing an Atari 2600 enhancement cartridge, but I am not into the scene as much as others. Basically, I love the Atari 2600/800, used to write games for the A800 (but not the 2600, but played them of course), and now I develop gaming hardware, 3D engines, etc.. That said, I have been trying to make sense of the different products available for the 2600. So, after doing some research, seems the Harmony Cartridge does what I wanted to do more or less. I wanted a cartridge with a microSD card, that supported bank switching, RAM, and maybe had some support for features that Atari 2600 home brewers wanted as long as I could add them without shaking the trees too much. I am thinking about everything from added sound support in the cart, to a color LCD screen to RGB LEDs to add special effects. Anyway, I have been developing hardware for about 30 years, and the last 15, I have my own manufacturing in china, so if I did this, I would hope to sell 1000+ carts to break even, thus, I am just wondering about the market size. I found one cart that sold 204 units then the company seemed to go defunct, or the license expired? In any event, if I did this, I would probably put it on kickstarter at some point to get the word out and use that to generate sales, so any "special" features in the cart, hopefully enough people would get it, so it became a standard ideally. But, primarily I would follow the rules for all the bank switching and RAM carts that have been reverse engineered to be compatible. So, I can tell over the years that many of these "super carts" or "multicarts" have been developed, but its not clear to me if they are successful? Seems many never ship, or ship a little, or whatever. Maybe the problem is many developers have not done formal manufacturing and get overwhelmed? Alas, I guess I am putting out an "RFC" of sorts with the simple question -- is there a need for another multi/supercart for the Atari 2600 (sorry 7800 people, I never got into that console, so I will stick with the 2600 for now -- and if there is a need, based on my specs above, is there anything else that is very common that home brewers are desperate to have? As well, as making something that normal 2600 fans can use to play games that range from 4-64K. Finally, I don't want to go nuts on this and make a huge project that never gets done. I have shipped about 50-60 embedded systems over the last 15 years and the one lesson I have learned is keep it simple as possible to serve the purpose, you can always add stuff LATER! Comments? (I will post this on Atari Museum, and Atari 2600 on Facebook as well, so I can get a good cross section of comments, not sure were "developers" hang out primarily). Thanks --
  16. Hi, I'm working on a bankswitch card that supports multigames. I first made a normal 4k multicard using a 27C256 that holds 8 games, for testing purposes. Easy to make, and it worked fine... Because I have my own programmer, but not an UV eraser, I wanted to use a 29F010 EEprom that can be electrically erased. The pinout of this is (almost) the same as a 27C010. So I copied a few ROM's together and programmed the EEprom, but for some reason that didn't work on my Atari 2600. I used my programmer to read back the ROM file out of the chip, and tested it in Stella (32 in 1). That worked fine, so there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with programmed chip. Does anyone here have any experience using EEproms for DIY cartridges or mulitgame card, and what is the difference between using a EEprom and a normal Eprom (because the normal Eprom is working fine). Many thanks !!
  17. Hi guys, I am looking for books that describe the history of Atari 2600 development (time line, hardware variations etc.) and its worldwide marketing (promotional stuff, sales figures etc.) in detail. So far I am aware of 'Racing the Beam' and 'The Ultimate History of Video Games'. I am looking forward to your recommendations!
  18. Ok so i have been working on a variation to this thread http://atariage.com/forums/topic/231131-flashback-to-colecovision-controller/?hl=%2Bflashback&do=findComment&comment=3805492 i have gone through and fixed the issues with the code pasted in the above link and rewritten it to allow a jaguar joypad to be used the current working prototype runs using every usabe IOpi on an atmga328p-pu microcontroller using its internal 8hz clock before i would decide where i should go from here i would like some feedback i cant add any more functionality using this processor becuase it is being fully used, so say if i wanted to add 2 players it would mean using another processor of the same settup to control joypad 2 an option would be to use at atmega 2560 which has many more pins that could be used. unfortunately this is a surface mount chip so it i a bit of a pain to make your own boards with it attached especially for prototypes i have hopfully attached a poll to this for everyone to provide some feedback before i decide what to do next
  19. What exactly is missing from our knowledge of the Atari VCS/2600's hardware that prevents us from making a perfect hardware clone of it? I've looked around, and apparently there's already a lot of information, and even hand-drawn schematics, on the TIA custom chip. What else is there missing?
  20. I'm an Oregonian, so I'd probably be outside on a rainy day, but it's not raining. No, it's sunny and it's hot enough to fry an albino on a cancer drug sitting next to a window in less than 5 minutes. Ask me how I know from Monday… So, project! I dismantled my console and managed to drop a washer! I did find it though. Was a bit tough because it's not magnetic: It's now in the tray with everything else. Of course once it was apart I got to see some genuine 35+ year old thermal goop. Crusty. Fortunately there's alcohol, q-tips, and a pilfered Motel 6 keycard for getting that crud out of there. Scrape off most of it, q-tip the rest, and let's apply some fresh … uh, slightly over-spec paste. While I'm here, I should clean the contacts of my side port, they look a little grubby. There's not much I can do about this, even though it's worn down to bare copper in places. My understanding is that the way you fix this requires a fair amount of flux, an air station with a lot of heat and a lot of volume, and some fresh solder. And don't do it with a cheap air station because those will burn the board or melt the plastic components before they actually do anything with big planar traces like these. I'm not an engineer/technician or anything though, so … I'll leave it be. Y'know, if I could operate a soldering iron properly, now'd be a good time to insert a diode… There's one more thing for me to do. The cartridge connector on these things has this little dust filter on it. It's almost certainly disgusting. I noticed gunk on a couple of my carts' edge connector and I've had a spare edge connector from Fest West 2017 … since 2017. At the very least you should take the cover off of yours, remove that foam bit from it, and just throw it away. That's the source of the gooey residue. I sprayed some deoxit in there and tried to scrub the contacts as best I could without a card edge cleaner, but that probably needs a going over by someone who's got the right little tool to go in there and clean those contacts. I assume the spare I have came from Greg who kindly reconditioned these for us. I'll have to be sure to give him this one so he can prepare it for the next person who needs one. Eager for F18A orders to begin, having done all of this I now know exactly how to do the installation of the thing. Hopefully this summer? [Edit: A couple images got lost in the editing process]
  21. To the Odyssey 1 (1972) community: I'm excited to be able to be able to release 10 copies of our new game pack for the Odyssey. It includes three brand new games, a newly designed game card with an attached controller, and the first ACC controller besides the original light gun. These kits are 100% hand-assembled. The overlays are full laser prints on translucent film; no transparencies (which do not display properly), no ink (which can smear), and no undersized or partial overlays. These are all the full, original Magnavox size for 19in screens. Note that we do not have the ability to manufacture 26in overlays. The Tannhauser Gate overlay includes a fully opaque element (the black hole), which is applied as a separate, opaque layer of special material to the back of the overlay. To learn more about the games and hardware, see this thread. To learn more about the OdysseyNow project, see this thread. The entire set of hardware and games comes in the following cylindrical case: Complete list of contents: OdysseyNow Game Pack cylindrical case Card 13 Card 13 Switch Controller Damocles Controller Damocles Controller power supply Tannhauser Gate overlay Tannhauser Gate instructions Tannhauser Gate cards (3 decks) Fukushima overlay Fukushima Meltdown Cycle card Fukushima instructions Super Cat and Mouse: Cheesy Castle overlay Super Cat and Mouse instructions Bonus Game: Trumpocalypse instructions Needless to say, nothing like this has ever been released for Odyssey before, and we are proud to push the platform forward, 47 years after the console's release! The price is $150 for the set, plus shipping. At only $50 per game, plus substantial new hardware, this is less than the other significant homebrews of the past. However, I am only releasing 10 copies, so this is an extremely limited release. I just want to get a few copies of our work out there for people to enjoy; we don't have the capacity or interest to manufacture large numbers. Any money we bring in from this release will go straight into further game and hardware development; we are not doing this for profit. All items have been manufactured and will ship within one week of your purchase. To purchase, PM me with your Paypal email address and shipping address and I'll send you a Paypal invoice. The first 10 payments received will get the set. Any others will be canceled/refunded. I'll update this post when all 10 copies have been sold. Thanks for your interest and support of the Odyssey!
  22. Not sure if anyone here has the knowledge to have a discussion on a technical level concerning the MSX standard. But I have a few questions concerning the various slot signals. 1) I see very few references to the SW1 & SW2 signals, other than they should be connected together on the cartridge pcb. However, no mention of where they go, or what they do. I'm assuming that there is some bit in some register set or reset. But I can't find any reference to it. Anyone have any idea? 2) As far as CS1, CS2, and CS12, I am assuming that these three select lines function independent of individual slots? I.e., they should be active on all slots at the same time, and not gated to specific slots? 3) SLTSL seems fairly easy to generate. My understanding is that the register A8h provides the 2-bit slot number for pages 0-3 of the 64k of memory. So I should be able to use a 1-to-4 decode on A15 & A14 to create my page select lines, and then just gate them properly with the A8h register to have the possible outcomes. (Been working on a truth table, but it going to be fairly extensive. This could probably be implemented with a fairly fast EEPROM for the logic). I understand how the decode works I think. I just want to verify I am not missing anything here. Any traps for noobs? If you're wanting more information as to the scope of what I'm doing, I am designing an expansion adapter for my MSX1 to open up Slots 2 & 3, possibly decoding one to the 4 secondary slots.
  23. Sort of a weird question, but does anyone happen to know the specs and make/model of the battery in the Hyperkin Retron 5 Controller? The reason I'm asking is 2 fold. A friend donated a controller which had a busted battery (which he conveniently threw out...clever I know) and I'm looking to get a replacement battery. Also, I have a Retron 5 system coming from the US as a Christmas gift and of course Australia post won't let me get the thing shipped without a Material Safety Data Sheet. I would appreciate even just a pic of the thing with some code numbers to start investigating, but if anyone knows more about it than that, the info would be much appreciated. Thanks (ps I know people hate the controller, but I actually quite like the stick) (pps... this pic is my only lead, found on another forum... green is possibly the battery.... credit to Ellie Doodle on Element14 for the pic)
  24. Probably a simple question, but I am having a hard time verifying my assumptions. I was wondering if this kit from Console 5 could be used to replace the bios chip in the base console, if the CD bios is replaced with base console bios? http://console5.com/store/atari-jaguar-cd-encryption-bypass-bios-kit.html Here is the link to the Console 5 wiki where they list the part number for the chip in the kit http://console5.com/wiki/Atari_Jaguar_CD I am trying to resurrect a console, and my technician (40+ years as a electronics technician and still practicing) says that the usual problems that Jaguar consoles run into aren't the issue in this case, after testing the usual suspects that are listed online. he suspects the bios may have been corrupted somehow at some point, after monitoring the boot process on an oscilloscope (this is all voodoo magic to me). Each time he boots the system with a game, the boot process is inconsistent. He has asked me to the purchase the parts necessary to test a working bios in the system (He is troubleshooting this as a favor to me, because he hasn't worked on any Atari product since the 90's, and is mentoring me at the same time. He expects me to do a bit of the leg work for the free work and instruction he is providing). First he just wants to add the socket so he doesn't have to keep soldering/unsoldering things, then he wants to try pulling the bios out of one of my working consoles, and test it in the non-working one first, to determine if the bios is really the problem. I assume that the socket in the kit will work fine, because of the same pin count and package design. But I want to make sure that the chip that comes in the kit can be used with the Jaguar bios image. Also, are there any other things I should be aware of when it comes to the bios? It seems like I have read something while meandering on the webs that there are different versions of the jaguar bios for the base console. Is this something to consider? Just for fun, here is the Console 5 wiki for the base jaguar console. Unfortunately they don't list an equivalent part to replace the bios. http://console5.com/wiki/Atari_Jaguar Thanks in advance for any advice that is given.
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