Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hardware'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Atari Systems
    • Atari General
    • Atari 2600
    • Atari 5200
    • Atari 7800
    • Atari Lynx
    • Atari Jaguar
    • Atari VCS
    • Dedicated Systems
    • Atari 8-Bit Computers
    • Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
  • Classic Consoles
  • Classic Computing
  • Modern Consoles
  • Gaming General
  • Marketplace
  • Community
  • Community
  • Game Programming
  • Site
  • PC Gaming
  • The Club of Clubs's Discussion
  • I Hate Sauron's Topics
  • 1088 XEL/XLD Owners and Builders's Topics
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Community Chat
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS Callers
  • Atari BBS Gurus's BBS SysOps
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Resources
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's CC65
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's ASM
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Lynx Programming
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Music/Sound
  • Atari Lynx Programmer Club's Graphics
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Shitty meme repository
  • The Official AtariAge Shitpost Club's Read this before you enter too deep
  • Arcade Gaming's Discussion
  • Tesla's Vehicles
  • Tesla's Solar
  • Tesla's PowerWall
  • Tesla's General
  • Harmony/Melody's CDFJ
  • Harmony/Melody's DPC+
  • Harmony/Melody's BUS
  • Harmony/Melody's General
  • ZeroPage Homebrew's Discussion
  • Furry Club's Chat/RP
  • PSPMinis.com's General PSP Minis Discussion and Questions
  • PSPMinis.com's Reviews
  • Atari Lynx 30th Birthday's 30th Birthday Programming Competition Games
  • 3D Printing Club's Chat
  • Drivers' Club's Members' Vehicles
  • Drivers' Club's Drives & Events
  • Drivers' Club's Wrenching
  • Drivers' Club's Found in the Wild
  • Drivers' Club's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's General Discussion
  • Dirtarians's Members' Rigs
  • Dirtarians's Trail Runs & Reports
  • Dirtarians's Wrenching
  • The Green Herb's Discussions
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's My blog
  • Robin Gravel's new blog's Games released
  • Atari Video Club's Harmony Games
  • Atari Video Club's The Atari Gamer
  • Atari Video Club's Video Game Summit
  • Atari Video Club's Discsuuions
  • Star Wars - The Original Trilogy's Star Wars Talk
  • PlusCart User's Bug reports
  • PlusCart User's Discussion
  • DMGD Club's Incoming!
  • DASM's General
  • AtariVox's Topics
  • Gran Turismo's Gran Turismo
  • Gran Turismo's Misc.
  • Gran Turismo's Announcements
  • The Food Club's Food
  • The Food Club's Drinks
  • The Food Club's Read me first!
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rules (READ FIRST)
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Feedback
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Rumor Mill
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's Coming Soon
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's General Talk
  • The (Not So) Official Arcade Archives Club's High Score Arena
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's General Chat & Welcome
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Meets
  • Adelaide South Australia Atari Chat's Trades & Swaps
  • KC-ACE Reboot's KC-ACE Reboot Forum
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Undumped Games
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Tip Of My Tounge
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Lost Gaming Vault
  • The Official Lost Gaming Club's Club Info
  • GIMP Users's Discussion

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Calendars

  • AtariAge Calendar
  • The Club of Clubs's Events
  • Atari BBS Gurus's Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website


Facebook


Twitter


Instagram


YouTube


eBay


GitHub


Custom Status


Location


Interests


Currently Playing


Playing Next

Found 99 results

  1. Sort of a weird question, but does anyone happen to know the specs and make/model of the battery in the Hyperkin Retron 5 Controller? The reason I'm asking is 2 fold. A friend donated a controller which had a busted battery (which he conveniently threw out...clever I know) and I'm looking to get a replacement battery. Also, I have a Retron 5 system coming from the US as a Christmas gift and of course Australia post won't let me get the thing shipped without a Material Safety Data Sheet. I would appreciate even just a pic of the thing with some code numbers to start investigating, but if anyone knows more about it than that, the info would be much appreciated. Thanks (ps I know people hate the controller, but I actually quite like the stick) (pps... this pic is my only lead, found on another forum... green is possibly the battery.... credit to Ellie Doodle on Element14 for the pic)
  2. Probably a simple question, but I am having a hard time verifying my assumptions. I was wondering if this kit from Console 5 could be used to replace the bios chip in the base console, if the CD bios is replaced with base console bios? http://console5.com/store/atari-jaguar-cd-encryption-bypass-bios-kit.html Here is the link to the Console 5 wiki where they list the part number for the chip in the kit http://console5.com/wiki/Atari_Jaguar_CD I am trying to resurrect a console, and my technician (40+ years as a electronics technician and still practicing) says that the usual problems that Jaguar consoles run into aren't the issue in this case, after testing the usual suspects that are listed online. he suspects the bios may have been corrupted somehow at some point, after monitoring the boot process on an oscilloscope (this is all voodoo magic to me). Each time he boots the system with a game, the boot process is inconsistent. He has asked me to the purchase the parts necessary to test a working bios in the system (He is troubleshooting this as a favor to me, because he hasn't worked on any Atari product since the 90's, and is mentoring me at the same time. He expects me to do a bit of the leg work for the free work and instruction he is providing). First he just wants to add the socket so he doesn't have to keep soldering/unsoldering things, then he wants to try pulling the bios out of one of my working consoles, and test it in the non-working one first, to determine if the bios is really the problem. I assume that the socket in the kit will work fine, because of the same pin count and package design. But I want to make sure that the chip that comes in the kit can be used with the Jaguar bios image. Also, are there any other things I should be aware of when it comes to the bios? It seems like I have read something while meandering on the webs that there are different versions of the jaguar bios for the base console. Is this something to consider? Just for fun, here is the Console 5 wiki for the base jaguar console. Unfortunately they don't list an equivalent part to replace the bios. http://console5.com/wiki/Atari_Jaguar Thanks in advance for any advice that is given.
  3. Hey all, I hope this hasn't been asked previously but I was wondering what some of you guys do when you're buying hardware from unknown individuals but you want to test it before handing over cash. I don't have an diagnosis cart so I'm thinking of doing these simple things. Insert a cart and play the game a little and game port Test out all of the keys using notepad Inspect for signs of significant damage Run a BASIC command to check for total amount of RAM or test areas of RAM for flakiness. (Would be interested in this BASIC command if someone has one handy) Would love to test the other ports but I think that would require much more setup time so I'm shooting for the minimum time for the maximum output. I'm just considered with the computer itself. Testing peripherals would be nice but not necessary. OK, retro computerphiles. Hit me with your best shot (fire away)!
  4. So, suppose you attached a Commodore 64 power supply to an Atari 800XL and turned it on. This kills the 800xl. What components were likely damaged, and is there any hope of repairing it? The red light came on for about a second, and then off forever. Apparently my vivid memories of using a C64 power supply when I was a kid are false. To make this slightly easier to solve, I'm linking to the atari 800xl pinouts in this thread, I googled for the commodore 64 pinouts and the pins seem to be numbered differently since the DIN plug is upside down in some of these diagrams.... but I'm thinking I'm not the first person to be this stupid, so maybe there's a well-known remedy that people can already know?
  5. Playing my 7800 on a C1702, then comparing it to the below, really blurs the line between differences:
  6. Good morning, everyone, As some of you may already know, I started adopting 1200XLs a couple years ago as part of the return to my Atari hobby. In the process, I managed to adopt 57 units, several with their original boxes (and some with their packaging styrofoam). However, two weeks ago I lost my job of ten years, and everything has changed; now, I'm forced to end a big part of my hobby to cover my wife's medical expenses of the past year (total knee replacement, medications) and our basic living expenses for the immediate future until I can sort out employment. My lost job could be someone's gain. Having invested around $10,000 in 1200XLs alone, I am now going to be rehoming them to either an individual or group of individuals willing to pay $7000 for 50 of them. This will include any and all original boxes and/or packaging, and power supplies, of course. Also included: 1200XL-related manuals, guides, and promotional materials. This averages the cost per system to $140— and considering the current selling price on EBay, it seems like a very reasonable deal. A hefty lump sum, I agree, which is why I'm posting this strictly as an interest check before I go forward with making an official post that includes photos and itemized listing. Given my present financial situation, I cannot really break up the 50 systems into individual sales, sorry. Frankly, we need the cash. This is a fantastic opportunity, regardless. Seven people, for example, pooling their funds to secure the entire lot and then reselling them would spread the cost out. Ten people coming together, even more so. And twenty-five individuals working collectively drops the per-person investment to under $300 per person for 2 1200XLs each. Again, this is NOT for only 50 1200XL systems: I have a sizable collection of original literature and original packaging/materials that will be included, bolstering the overall value of this package offer. If the interest isn't present, I'll reluctantly need to turn to EBay to rehome the lot, furthering my losses, of course— but I would prefer to see these go to those who take their Atari hobby as seriously as I do. Pickup would need to be local for the obvious logistical reasons— but also affords the opportunity to, in person, appreciate this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for what it is. NOTE: I'm currently in the process of inventorying/re-verifying the rest of the Atari hardware I've adopted these last few years, and would be open to include a significant majority of it for an additional $2000. This would include Atari 800s, 800XLs, 130XEs, XEGS systems with keyboards, 1050 drives, Indus drives, at least one Trak drive, Rana drives, 850s, and so on. My hobby inventory can be viewed at any time by visiting the link below, but keep in mind that I am still getting the listings finalized (I'll be keeping a few things, and software/books will NOT be a part of the overall rehoming effort). https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BxNhdFR69ypdnINzIh4QK4v4JrjPLsGVvGxOEEvUMH8/edit?usp=sharing Finally, I understand that some may want to make an offer on the entire lot. Contact me by PM, and we can discuss it if your offer seems reasonable, especially if your intentions will benefit the Atari community. But, please! no lowballing or trying to profit from the sudden dire straits my wife and I have found ourselves traversing. I will do everything I can to make sure that the buyer(s) are satisfied that this was a one-of-a-kind effort to help us while taking on an entire collection for the Atari community. Submitted for your perusal and consideration, Timothy Kline Below is a sneak peek inside my Atari 1200XL vault.
  7. Hello, If anyone one has or has had any experience with the xl eprom burner (the one that plugs into the cart slot of an xl/xe) and can spare a few posts/time to help me out with a couple questions please reply or send a private message. It would be much appreciated!
  8. So a long while ago I had a bright idea on a "captain's chair" 'controller' for playing Star Raiders on the 8-bit / 5200. My thought is a joystick on one arm of the chair (e.g. on the right, for right-handed folks), with a thumb trigger on top, or index finger trigger on the front, so it can be controlled entirely with one hand. On the other side, there'd be a keypad controller (like used by the 2600 version of the game), offering the various toggle controls: front view (F) aft view (A) long range view (L) galactic map (G) attack computer (C) targeting computer (T) target selector (M) shields (S) hyperwarp (H) pause (P) That's 10 keys, so totally doable with a 12-button keyboard controller, connected to the second controller port. Finally, on that same side (e.g., left, for right-handed users) would be an analog throttle, like you see in a boat. Fully forward (towards the TV) would be "twin-ion engine" at full-speed (9), and fully back (toward the player) would be full-stop (0). This would be connected to the paddle input of controller port 1, alongside the main digital joystick input (if I'm reading things right, it looks like the POT stuff is used by keyboard controllers). Obviously, a hacked version of Star Raiders would be required for this to work (read paddle for engine control, read keyboard controller for other keyboard control). It'd be a pretty cool set-up, though, don't you think? Sadly, I don't have the skill to do either the hardware, or the ROM hacking. 😛
  9. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    Gameplay of Pitfall! NTSC version Played on my Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console modded using Tim Worthington's 2600 RGB Mod showing it in YPbPr Component Video Output.

    © SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man

  10. I recently got a beige non-QI TI-99/4a system with a speech synth and several cartridges, including Extended BASIC and Editor Assembler. The joysticks I have are worn out and don't work. I was able to revive the Mitsumi mylar keyboard. I don't have a PEB or memory expansion or disk drive. I'd like to do some BASIC and assembler coding on the system, as well as play some games. What should I be looking for? Stuff I'm considering to do or purchase... - Cassette cable and recorder - Atari joystick adapter interface - Is there a preferred model? Most that I see don't have any kind of case on them. - Memory expansion - What is the go to for adding more memory to this system? - Disk drive, or disk drive emulator - I have a Gotek drive in my Amiga. My Coco has an SDC cartridge. My Atari connects to my Windows PC to retrieve files. How can I emulate a disk drive on the TI-99/4a? - I'm currently connected to a TV using a component video cable. Are there any video upgrades for the TI-99/4a to use VGA, component or HDMI? - I have an MX-80 parallel printer. Can I connect this to the TI-99/4a? Is it worth the hassle? - Is there an assembler/editor that works on a TI system without a disk drive? How about without the 32K expansion? I've done some searching online, and checked out some of the online vendors and eBay. Most of the info I find is outdated and I'm not sure which of the upgrades are good for a system today. Any and all info is appreciated!
  11. I was pouting over the lousy 64KB of ram in my 65XE the other day and decided to look into expansion options. It's one of those without the ECI port, so it would need to be an internal unit. Looking at what was out there, I wasn't very happy. How about I try my own hand at it? Here's my initial thoughts on the matter. The idea is 1) it must use the "standard" CIA PORTB for bank control, 2) it cannot interfere with the normal operation of any of the bits, and 3) it should support CPU/ANTIC bank control. I looked at the memory available online... what do you know, there's a 2Mx8 5V 45ns SRAM from Digikey for about $5. Two of them would fill out a full 8 bit bank select just peachy. But how do you get 8 bank address lines from the port without interfering with the operation of the bits? A latch comes to mind. And that's the main thing - a hex D-Type flip-flop. Clearing PB7 will clear the latch, so asserting the self-test ROM will just clear the latch. No problem there. I use PB6 as the flip-flop clock (latched on rising edge). So if this were in an XEGS, clearing PB6 enables the Missile Command rom, which wouldn't be an issue as long as the code to switch banks isn't in either the bank memory space or in the rom cart space. No problem there, either, especially on systems without Missile Command. I use PB5-0 as the inputs to the d-flip-flops... no problems there as long as the code to switch banks isn't in bank memory space, the cart space, or the OS ram space... so in the first 16KB; oh, and the ints are off unless you keep the int code and data in the first 16KB as well. Still not an issue. But how do I get 8 bank address bits from 6 latched bits. Well, just use PB2 and 3 as normal. The latched bits extend them from 2 bits to 8 bits. Use A21 and it's inverse to select one of the two sram chips, use PB4 and 5 along with A14 and A15 and /HALT to generate the other chip enable, a few gates for output enable and write enable and Bob's your uncle. The prices in the pic are from Digikey in single unit quantities for surface mount parts. A handful of bypass caps to round it out at less than $15 in parts... minus the board. That's gonna be the "fun" part. Been a while since I made a board. I'll update as I get further along. Comments and suggestions are appreciated.
  12. I've been meaning to start a topic about my abbuc hardware competition entry, a replacement for the Pokey chip. It's been mentioned in a couple of threads but I thought many people may have overlooked it. I tried to be sensitive to cost in my design, though once the full details are released (after competition result) it will be fun here to brainstorm ideas to make it even cheaper! Clearly there are still plenty of real pokey chips, however the supply is starting to become more limited and prices are on the increase. --- PokeyMAX Introduction The PokeyMAX is a complete replacement for the Pokey chip. It is derived from the work on the EclaireXL project, a complete FPGA based Atari 800XL clone. The intention is to build replacements for all of the Atari custom chips using this technology and Pokey has been built first. It can be used either to replace a broken/missing pokey, as a stereo upgrade, or just for fun! Features If pokey is socketed, zero wire installation (mono) Dual pokey mode Pins for 3 audio outputs (left channel/right channel/mixed) Small footprint, only a few mm larger than original IC Supports all features: 8x paddle inputs, IRQ, serial I/O, audio output, two tone mode, high pass filter and keyboard scan High level of compatibility Digital logic The PokeyMAX is built around the Altera MAX10 FPGA. This was chosen due to its integrated flash memory, power conversion, small size and low cost. The contained logic itself is described in VHDL and Verilog and then synthesized using the Quartus II software. Level conversion Most modern FPGAs no longer support 5V logic. While it is possible to find a few they are a vanishing breed. The MAX10 only supports up to 3.3V logic, so an IDT quickswitch level converter IC is used to connect to the high speed lines (A/D/IRQ/serial io etc) safely. Chip select Unfortunately I needed more level conversion lines than provided. TI came to the rescue with some 5V tolerant multi-function logic chips with which I was able to combined CS/!CS into one. Power The MAX10 requires a single 3.3V power supply, it then internally generates the rest of its supplies. This is very convenient, since often FPGAs require 3 or more different voltage levels. There is a switch mode regulator (LM3670) to convert from 5V to 3.3v in an efficient fashion. Paddles These are handled by charging a capacitor that we then check the level of using an LMV339. This is similar to the well-known LM339 comparator, except much smaller! The comparator is used since the level can be set very precisely rather than relying on when the FPGA detects a logic high. The level itself is set to 2.2v using the voltage divider on the right. It is also convenient since its open drain output means there are no level conversion issues. For the drain transistors, a 5V tolerant IO extender chip is used. The FPGA communicates with this over an I2C bus. Keyboard scan An IO extender chip drives the 6 keyboard lines and then reads the response. This is convenient since it only requires an I2C bus to the FPGA and the IC is much smaller than the level converters. JTAG The core may be upgraded or debugged using an Altera USB blaster connected here. Several of the JTAG pins are dual use and can be used as general IO. So we could for instance in future plug in i2c devices here or use for A5 (with external level converter) to allow quad pokey or sid etc. Audio filter The audio output uses a delta sigma dac. An RC circuit is used as a simple audio filter to smooth the output from this. There are four audio outputs, which are currently fed to pin 37 and 3 header pins (left/right and mixed). Note that the next stage much not draw a lot of current from the rc filter or it will cause distortion. A4 Pokey has 4 address pins (A0-A3). To make space for a 2nd pokey another address line is needed. For stereo connect to A4. Errata: Note that the "paddle capacitors" should not be populated and RA1 should be 0 ohm since these are already on the main board, this was a schematic error.
  13. So I'm sure it sounds amazingly lazy of me, but with the myriad of controllers out there, I hate having to swap them out in the console itself. I thought: man, it would be fantastic if some sort of "hub" existed where multiple controllers could be plugged in and selected via a switch. So ... does anything of the sort even exist for 9-pin controllers like those found on the 2600?
  14. In another topic OLD CS1 mentioned he had some long term projects in mind which got me thinking that might be an interesting subject for a new topic. SO, what long term projects do you have in mind and how long do you think it might take you. Me first. About 6 months ago I got started on a TI99 version of the Atari classic 'Mule'. Well, I changed jobs, then my wife got a job offer to Dallas, Texas. We moved etc... etc... who cares. Anyway, now I have time to get back to it. I going to use Senior Falcon XBC256CF which solves almost all my previous problems; fast loading of screens, scrolling, streaming music. Think it might take me a few months. My hardware project I have started on is installing a speaker and amplifier in the TI99. Since the F18a disables the video the only need for the video cable is for sound. I created a bracket to mount the speaker (just behind the cartridge port) and tested putting a small amp below the motherboard. Unfortunately, I shorted out the amp I scavenged from a old MP player so back to square one. This is a, when I feel like messing with it, project so who knows. What you got in the works or just thinking about.
  15. What material is the Atari 800XL's case made out of? I'd like to use a laser cutter to cut a window for my SIO2SD device, but I need to be sure that it's safe to do so, i.e. no chlorine fumes or anything that will corrode the equipment.
  16. Hey Everyone. First off, I do love forums. I don't want to detract from Atari Age in any way whatsoever with this. Forums are awesome for long discussions, seeking opinons, and getting help from others when trying to solve problems. The only problem is that it can be really hard to find the solution to an issue when you have to dig through pages of posts, filtering out in your head all the other stuff like huge signatures and the like. Chances are good that everyone here has used a StackExchange site at some point, and if you have you'll know how effective they are. I've created a proposal for a Retro Computing site—I really think it'd be awesome to have a cross-community resource that covers all aspects of the computers we love. Any backing for the proposal here would be hugely appreciated! http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/94441/retro-computing
  17. I just got a coco 2 really cheap from a thrift store and can't get a picture. It seem to be getting voltage on the board all the way up to the RF module but no picture. I get about 1.2v DC from the RF. I get 9v AC from the transformer at two places it's connected to the board. All the solders look good, chips seated and nothing seems to be burned out. I'm not familiar with the coco but I do know it's a 1st gen coco2 that had 64k installed. Any ideas from you seasoned coco experts that might send me in the right direction? FYI: I never had a coco when I was a kid (an Atari and TI-99 guy) but always was fascinated with them. I really would like to get this working if possible. thanks
  18. Does anyone have any long-term experience with running a US TI 99/4A with a European power supply? Looking at the power bricks they supply slightly different voltages, but this thread deems it as safe. That was in 2010, though, so maybe there are new insights by now. My model that arrived in the mail today also has only two power pins in the socket -- does this make my machine a QI model? And if so, is it still safe to use a European power supply? (I do have a step converter, but I think it's a pain to use that.) I also noticed that I need to do the composite video mod to get a picture. While most European TVs handle NTSC nicely I simply have no clue how to connect those flimsy appendages that come out of the modulator.
  19. I know this has been discussed already but i was curious to see the results of a poll. In todays competitive marketplace, three is a crowd, especially when your market is slowly becoming a niche when compared to mobile gaming (sadly.) Each company has pros and cons: Microsoft Pros: Combined entertainment device, has captured mature gamers Cons: Has always had issues with profitability of the Xbox devision, which shareholders/executives can't be happy about Nintendo Pros: Cash rich company, has captured youth and loyalty niches Cons: Shrinking market share, minimal adoption of Wii U (to put it kindly) Sony Pros: Market leader, top notch devices Cons: The rest of the company has been hit HARD by competition from South Korean manufacturers. Who do you think will be next, and why? I see it being a two-console market by the next generation.
  20. Ok, we have a Rarity guide covering the Games for the Atari systems, but what about the systems themselves, and for the accessories, like the controllers, keyboard add ons, the video jogger mat, etc.? has anyone thought about constructing a rarity guide around the accessories and hardware? I know it might be a bit more difficult, but I think we should have a "Atari Hardware & accessories Value guide". I mean, wouldn't you like to know how rare that All-Black 2600 JR is, or if you have a super rare Controller? what about your amiga joyboard? And how rare is that "Sunnyvale Heavy sixer"? I know we have talked alot about how rare a console or controller is, but wouldn't it be nice to have it registered and numbered on a scale like we do with the games? I know I would!
  21. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    Activision's Grand Prix played in crisp YPbPr Component Video Output.

    © SavyIsJoshoArts aka Activision Man

  22. I've seen articles about putting RAM on the 16-bit part of the bus to gain some speed, and am thinking of building one. However, I'm not sure about being able to fit it under the RF shielding clamshells. Ideas? What kind of metal are the clamshells made of? Is it readily available? K-R.
  23. Hi folks, I am new at AtariAge. Months ago, I've got an AV-modded european Atari 2600 Jr. (Rev. F board) in a great condition for cheap. However, here at my country (Brazil), PAL-B compatible TV sets are rare to find. The closest color system that is supported by most TVs is PAL-N (PAL variation used in Argentina and a few more countries in South America). I tried to replace the 4.433618 MHz XTAL with a 3.582056 MHz one, but that gave me no colors in any PAL-N compatible set. Also tried to replace the 3.546894 MHz one with a second 3.582056 MHz XTAL, but still gave me nothing but B&W picture. Is there something I can do to make this console output PAL-N? Both systems are 50 Hz and have the same resolution, so it should work somehow. Thanks a lot!
×
×
  • Create New...