Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hardware'.
-
I have a '99 that I fitted with a F18a some months back. I've used it a good many hours without issue, and some of that was online through TIMXT with a WiFi232 -- so the keyboard has been working fine. I'd not used the TI in a few weeks and turned it on and noticed in the FlashROM '99 menu that certain keys were not working. Those keys are: HJKL; and SPACE Press normal, hard, etc. and they don't register -- TI BASIC, TIMXT, Forth, etc. But, I left the machine on for a while and I notice they keys now do work...but you need to press them just a little harder than "normal" for them to trigger, and when you do, they usually repeat a few times. One depress of 'K' results in 'KKKK' and such. So something is really strange here. I assume the hardware heating up is the change, but the repeat action baffles me. Can anyone make anything out of this? I see no other oddities with the system. I disconnected my PEB and that had no effect on the situation. Is this a specific IC failing? Or...? Thanks. bp -
Compared to some of the amazing projects I've seen for the TI, this seems like it would be an easy project in comparison. Essentially it's just a PCB with two edgecard connectors designed into it and few components to support the speech. Plug the speech onto it, then plug it into the P-Box. It's not like it would need a case or anything.
-
Ok, we have a Rarity guide covering the Games for the Atari systems, but what about the systems themselves, and for the accessories, like the controllers, keyboard add ons, the video jogger mat, etc.? has anyone thought about constructing a rarity guide around the accessories and hardware? I know it might be a bit more difficult, but I think we should have a "Atari Hardware & accessories Value guide". I mean, wouldn't you like to know how rare that All-Black 2600 JR is, or if you have a super rare Controller? what about your amiga joyboard? And how rare is that "Sunnyvale Heavy sixer"? I know we have talked alot about how rare a console or controller is, but wouldn't it be nice to have it registered and numbered on a scale like we do with the games? I know I would!
- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Atari
- controller
- (and 8 more)
-
Hi, i'm new to Atari 2600 collecting and was wondering what the best version of the 2600 was. I can't go for something rare/expensive E.G heavy sixer since i don't have the biggest budget, i'm only 12. I just need something that works.
-
Hey all, A question... has anyone laid out the necessary hardware to make use of a Lotharek drive for the TI? I can see that the base model emulates a 3 1/2" drive, my questions would be: 1) Does it work without any modifications with a classic TI or Corcomp FDC? Or do you have to do some kind of hardware upgrade? 2) Does anyone have 5 1/4" frames for the 3 1/2" footprint so it's not just hanging in your box? 3) What other equipment do you need? My present PE Box has two classic 5 1/4" drives in it, so it's got the big power cable connectors. I assume for a 3 1/2" you'd need a converter? I'm NOT a hardware guy, I do not and will never own a soldering iron, so it would be good to know if this is an area I should or should not pursue, lest I end up ranting and raving on the forums in mad frustration.
-
OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
-
Sorry if this has been covered elsewhere.........anyone have a good supplier of tiny screws used in many Atari computers? Man, those things are tiny!
-
I used TI Extended BASIC and 32K RAM expansion to write games and create music in the 1980s, and I'm trying to easily resurrect this content 35 years later. There are a variety of emulators and gizmos like the CatWeasel, but before I go too far, I'm wondering if there is a setup that can handle all these requirements: - Ability to read original 5-1/4" disks - TI Extended BASIC required - 32K RAM exapansion required - Games include custom "data" (strings of custom music and graphics) which must be periodically loaded during gameplay... not just code...this must be accessed using the "INPUT" (with files) command I'm trying to decide upon the right approach: 1. Repair or replace my original hardware and get it to run it on the original platform 2. Try to build a conversion / emulator system and bring these files into the 21st century 3. Find someone with existing conversion capabilities who might be willing to help I assume someone could help a software restoration newbie like me navigate the technical gotchas? The content is mainly text parser adventure games (rather goofy ones at that) and music and graphic utilities I authored myself. Thanks for all sage advice!
-
So now that I got my P.E. box going again, I am thinking I should acquire a SAMS card... I know the raw boards and components are sold on ArcadeShopper's site, but as I have stated previously, I am not a hardware person. I just would like to buy it already assembled and good to go. Anyone have one to sell, or know where I can get it? Also, I presume they are sold bare-board, since the clamshell cases would be an unnecessary expense. Is it possible to put one into the TI's 32k Memory expansion clamshell?
-
Hello all, I have an Atari Lynx II that has the opposite problem from what I usually read on here. Whenever it is connected to a power source (wall adapter or batteries) it immediately turns on and never turns off. It will drain batteries completely if I leave them in it. Without a game it just shows the "Insert Game" message. With a game it plays fine, good display, good sound, but the Power and Off buttons do not do anything. I have replaced the D13 Zenner and the Q12 MOSFET and it continues. Happens with or without the flex ribbon for the buttons attached. I guess it is a more fortunate issue then "will not turn on", but has anyone ever run into this or have any ideas? Thanks!
-
I want to burn my own ROMs for my new game. I know Atariage and others will do it for you but I just want the experience and I like messing with hardware. I have created other carts for other systems so I have some experience. I have found where I can get a board and burn up to 16k carts. What i want to know is if making a SC cart or a DPC+ cart is doable or desirable. can you get the chips, boards etc.. I haven't found a good answer due to me inexperience with 2600 carts. thx to all you 2600 hardware gurus out there.
-
So I'm sure it sounds amazingly lazy of me, but with the myriad of controllers out there, I hate having to swap them out in the console itself. I thought: man, it would be fantastic if some sort of "hub" existed where multiple controllers could be plugged in and selected via a switch. So ... does anything of the sort even exist for 9-pin controllers like those found on the 2600?
-
go through this sellers list to find some interesting atari st stuff, seems to be listing more of it as well. eBay Seller: regalservice -
Well people, I have been trying to fix up an old Indus GT I had .. that had a bad display. I had thought it was the Seven seg. displays themselves. Now Im not so sure. I removed the old displayed.. replaced them with the same part # but was not able to get them to fit the same way the old ones did.. because the pins have been re-arranged. But they are in. Now I am still getting segments flaking out and disappearing.. and I think its the display board ribbon cable and its connection to the main board. See the attached pics. If anyone knows what type of ribbon or connectors I should search for? or what I could replace it with. I would really like some help on this one. Thanks James
-
I'm in search of gold socket pins with various (40, 28, 24, 20 [skinny], and maybe a few 16) pin size DIP carriers on them. Any trusted vendors come to mind? Thanks in advance Edit: also need 14's.
-
I know this has been discussed already but i was curious to see the results of a poll. In todays competitive marketplace, three is a crowd, especially when your market is slowly becoming a niche when compared to mobile gaming (sadly.) Each company has pros and cons: Microsoft Pros: Combined entertainment device, has captured mature gamers Cons: Has always had issues with profitability of the Xbox devision, which shareholders/executives can't be happy about Nintendo Pros: Cash rich company, has captured youth and loyalty niches Cons: Shrinking market share, minimal adoption of Wii U (to put it kindly) Sony Pros: Market leader, top notch devices Cons: The rest of the company has been hit HARD by competition from South Korean manufacturers. Who do you think will be next, and why? I see it being a two-console market by the next generation. -
In my effort to provide documentation for lynx, I've started a new task : "vectorisation" of the Atari Lynx Schematics. I've done it with KiCAD. The schematics are based on the 4 part of Atari Lynx Hardware Schematics This is not the "final" version. Some parts were hard to read/understand. If you see any mistake, please feel free to report it. Schematics v0.1.pdf
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
-
- Plans
- Schematics
- (and 4 more)
-
Hi all, I have an 800xl upgraded with VBXE, Stereo Pokey, U1Mb, and an internal Sio2Sd. And I also have an 8-year old (human) who actually might enjoy "Invitation to Programming", so I've plugged in the 1010. Motor control works fine, (eg, CLOAD or POKE 54018,52) - but I'm just hearing dead silence - none of the familiar loading noises, nor any audio that's on the other track with tapes like that. I cleaned the heads, even though I felt grubby heads would at least give me some sort of noise. I did some SIO cable wiggling, and then tried a different SIO cable. Then I tried a second 1010 - all making no difference. So, I'm thinking it must be down to the 800xl itself - maybe some side-effect/issue caused by the upgrades it's got - which all work perfectly and were expertly done (not by me! I'm happy with a multimeter, and buliding new kit, but didn't think I'd manage un/soldering on the 800xl board...) I appreciate it's a bizarre combination - having all these upgrades, and then trying to load from tape. But does anyone know any reason why this shouldn't work - or where I might start on diagnosing it? Thanks, Wes
-
Sort of a weird question, but does anyone happen to know the specs and make/model of the battery in the Hyperkin Retron 5 Controller? The reason I'm asking is 2 fold. A friend donated a controller which had a busted battery (which he conveniently threw out...clever I know) and I'm looking to get a replacement battery. Also, I have a Retron 5 system coming from the US as a Christmas gift and of course Australia post won't let me get the thing shipped without a Material Safety Data Sheet. I would appreciate even just a pic of the thing with some code numbers to start investigating, but if anyone knows more about it than that, the info would be much appreciated. Thanks (ps I know people hate the controller, but I actually quite like the stick) (pps... this pic is my only lead, found on another forum... green is possibly the battery.... credit to Ellie Doodle on Element14 for the pic) -
I hate to highjack Sikor's thread, but I'd like to see the results on a single page and tallied up. They only allow for 25 choices, so list your "Other..." if necessary.
-
Does anyone have a copy of this? 410 Diagnostic Tape
-
I am by nature a tinkerer with a wide range of interests, and every year I come up with a variety of projects, whether in hardware or software, most of which nowadays end up on YouTube. Unfortunately, I have rarely documented my thought processes with each project, nor any mistakes I made along the way to completion. So I figured going forward I would start keeping such a blog, if nothing else for my own records, although I suspect that some readers might be interested in some aspects of it. So here it goes...
-
Hey all, I hope this hasn't been asked previously but I was wondering what some of you guys do when you're buying hardware from unknown individuals but you want to test it before handing over cash. I don't have an diagnosis cart so I'm thinking of doing these simple things. Insert a cart and play the game a little and game port Test out all of the keys using notepad Inspect for signs of significant damage Run a BASIC command to check for total amount of RAM or test areas of RAM for flakiness. (Would be interested in this BASIC command if someone has one handy) Would love to test the other ports but I think that would require much more setup time so I'm shooting for the minimum time for the maximum output. I'm just considered with the computer itself. Testing peripherals would be nice but not necessary. OK, retro computerphiles. Hit me with your best shot (fire away)! -
I have just made an interface for the Atari trackball to the TI-99/4a. The Atari trackball works like a joystick that needs a +5 to power the sensors. it's essentially an upside down ball mouse. So what I did was create a standard Atari to Ti-99 joystick interface cable then on PIN 7 I attached a +5 from a battery for the Atari trackball sensors. believe it or not it works. Except, and this is the odd part I can't figure out, when the trackball is attached the keyboard display automatically goes into lower case. clicking the alpha lock does nothing and pressing shift will make the upper case letters appear but it will default back to lower case. also, you still have to turn off the alpha lock to enable 'up' on the trackball. this effect happens rather the +5 is attached or not. doesn't seem to effect the TI-99 adversely except throwing it into lower case. ideas?
-
So, suppose you attached a Commodore 64 power supply to an Atari 800XL and turned it on. This kills the 800xl. What components were likely damaged, and is there any hope of repairing it? The red light came on for about a second, and then off forever. Apparently my vivid memories of using a C64 power supply when I was a kid are false. To make this slightly easier to solve, I'm linking to the atari 800xl pinouts in this thread, I googled for the commodore 64 pinouts and the pins seem to be numbered differently since the DIN plug is upside down in some of these diagrams.... but I'm thinking I'm not the first person to be this stupid, so maybe there's a well-known remedy that people can already know?
.thumb.png.ded02932a275f1b65822894720661bc4.png)
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord