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Found 110 results

  1. Hey there everyone, I just started learning to program the Atari 2600 in Assembly recently and I think that I have learned a great deal. However, I seem to have hit a road block. Initially, when I first started programming playfields and backgrounds, I plugged the values in line by line like this: .fctbNone{ color:#e0e0e0; }.fctbStyle0{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }.fctbStyle3{ color:#ffd700; }.fctbStyle5{ color:#ee82ee; }.fctbStyle4{ color:#00bfff; }.fctbStyle2{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle1{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle1Style3{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle2Style3{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle6{ color:#ff6347; }.fctbStyle0Style6{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }; < GAME TITLE >; < AUTOR > processor 6502 include "vcs.h" include "macro.h" ;---------- LABELS ----------;---------------------------- SEG ORG $F000Reset; Initialize TIA/RAM; ------------------ LDX #0 LDA #0 Clear STA 0,X INX BNE Clear ; Initialize Labels; ----------------- COMPILE_VERSION = NTSC NTSC =#1 LDA #%00000001 STA $82 LDA #$BC STA COLUPF LDA $82 STA CTRLPF ; Start Game; ----------StartOfFrame LDA #0 STA VBLANK LDA #2 STA VSYNC ; VSYNC Signal STA WSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC LDA #0 STA VSYNC ; Vertical Blank LDX #0 VerticalBlank STA WSYNC INX CPX #37 BNE VerticalBlank ; Scanlines LDX #0IDIOT INX LDA #$C4 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #40 BNE IDIOT LDA #$C4 STA COLUPF LDA #$0 STA COLUBK LDA #%11111111 STA PF0 STA PF1 LDA #%10111111 STA PF2 MORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #42 BNE MORAL LDA #%11100000 STA PF0 LDA #%11001111 STA PF1 LDA #%00011111 STA PF2CORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #44 BNE CORAL LDA #%11000000 STA PF0 LDA #%10000111 STA PF1 LDA #%00001111 STA PF2NORAL INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #46 BNE NORAL LDA #%10000000 STA PF0 LDA #%00000011 STA PF1 LDA #%00000111 STA PF2STEVE INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #48 BNE STEVE LDA #%00000000 STA PF0 LDA #%00000001 STA PF1 LDA #%00000011 STA PF2PTEVE INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #50 BNE PTEVE LDA #0 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2BIGB INX LDA #$CA STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #110 BNE BIGB BIGBB INX LDA #$2E STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #130 BNE BIGBB BIGBBB INX LDA #$2C STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #150 BNE BIGBBB FED INX LDA #$0 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #192 BNE FED EndScreen LDA #%01000010 STA VBLANK ; Overscan LDX #0Overscan STA WSYNC INX CPX #30 BNE Overscan ; Next Frame ; ---------- JMP StartOfFrame ORG $FFFA .word Reset .word Reset .word Reset END Thanks all! But while I was continuing in the tutorials, I found that my original methodology isnt really going to work (or will it? please let me know!) especially working with a great deal of sprites and backgrounds. So, I have found that most people tend to do play fields more like this: .fctbNone{ color:#e0e0e0; }.fctbStyle0{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }.fctbStyle3{ color:#ffd700; }.fctbStyle5{ color:#ee82ee; }.fctbStyle4{ color:#00bfff; }.fctbStyle2{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle1{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle1Style3{ color:#00ffff;font-weight:bold; }.fctbStyle2Style3{ color:#ffa500; }.fctbStyle6{ color:#ff6347; }.fctbStyle0Style6{ color:#adff2f;font-style:oblique; }; < GAME TITLE >; < AUTOR > processor 6502 include "vcs.h" include "macro.h" ;---------- LABELS ----------;---------------------------- SEG ORG $F000Reset; Initialize TIA/RAM; ------------------ LDX #0 LDA #0 Clear STA 0,X INX BNE Clear ; Initialize Labels; ----------------- COMPILE_VERSION = NTSC NTSC =#1 LDA #%00000001 STA $82 LDA #$BC STA COLUPF LDA $82 STA CTRLPF PFG0 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010PFG1 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010PFG2 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010 .byte %10101010; Start Game; ----------StartOfFrame LDA #0 STA VBLANK LDA #2 STA VSYNC ; VSYNC Signal STA WSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC LDA #0 STA VSYNC ; Vertical Blank LDX #0 VerticalBlank STA WSYNC INX CPX #37 BNE VerticalBlank ; Scanlines LDX #0 ;THIS AREA IS ENCLOSED FOR THE PASTEINGLDY #0Woah LDA PFG0,X STA PF0 LDA PFG1,X STA PF1 LDA PFG2,X STA PF2 INX STA WSYNC cpx #190 bne Woah;FINISH AREA LDA %00000000 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2FED INX LDA #$0 STA COLUBK STA WSYNC CPX #192 BNE FED EndScreen LDA #%01000010 STA VBLANK ; Overscan LDX #0Overscan STA WSYNC INX CPX #30 BNE Overscan ; Next Frame ; ---------- JMP StartOfFrame ORG $FFFA .word Reset .word Reset .word Reset END So once I tested this I found that I only got some of the playfield filled, the other parts are random. why is this? Can it be fixed?
  2. I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
  3. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  4. I recently bought a broken intellivision off of eBay, and after messing around with it i believe that the problem is the CPU. I don't have a working unit, or any other units for that matter. I was hoping i could find a new cpu (preferably a whole board, in case there is any other problems with it) from someone on this form. I really want to try and play some intv games, especially since they are cheap.
  5. I am trying to get my "character" to bounce between the left and right parts of the screen. Here is the code I'm using: First, the global equates: LEFTBOUNDRY equ #20 RIGHTBOUNDRY equ #144 and then the actual code: ; pet movement code lda PetX ; load pet x position into accumulator clc ; clear carry flag adc PetVX ; add the pet's velocity constant sta PetX ; store pet's new x position cmp #LEFTBOUNDRY ; does it intersect the left boundry? bcs SkipReversePetDirection ; if not branch cmp #RIGHTBOUNDRY ; does it intersect the right boundry? bcc SkipReversePetDirection ; if not branch lda PetVX ; load the pet's x velocity eor #$ff ; negate it adc PetVX ; add pet's current velocity sta PetVX ; store the pet's new velocity SkipReversePetDirection Also here is a link to the full source code: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6g6fmpmksvx7dmo/Source_11-14-18.zip?dl=0 Thanks for the support so far, Heroes & Shadows
  6. I having been trying to find a text editor that supports Basics Programming but I have not been able to find one. Do you guys know of any that I could use? Also, do you know if there is a IDE that allows one to use things such as intymusic and intycolor?
  7. Estoy con el siguiente problema, necesito convertir el hexadecimal $44000 a decimal. por ende no puedo utilizar el floating point por que este solo trabaja hasta 2 bytes y un máximo de 65335, trate de todos los medios, incluso sumando de un byte a uno y comparando hasta llegar a la igualdad, pero el proceso es demasiado lento, casi 1 minuto. He revisado revistas manuales y ninguno da señal de algún código que pueda ayudar a realizar este proceso. traduccion I am with the following problem, I need to convert the hexadecimal $ 44000 to decimal. so I can not use the floating point because it only works up to 2 bytes and a maximum of 65335, try all media, even adding one byte to one and comparing until you reach equality, but the process is too slow , almost 1 minute. I have reviewed manual journals and none gives a signal of any code that can help to carry out this process. *=$2000 M=17 MEMORY .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$9B DISPONIBLE .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$9B CALCULO .BYTE $00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$00,$9B SUMAMOSMEMORIA LDX M SUMAMOSMEMORIA? CLC LDA MEMORY+2 ADC #$00 STA MEMORY+2 LDA MEMORY+1 ADC #$40 STA MEMORY+1 LDA MEMORY ADC #0 STA MEMORY SUMAMOSMEMORIA?? CPX #0 BEQ FINSUMAMOSMEMORIA DEX JMP SUMAMOSMEMORIA? FINSUMAMOSMEMORIA RTS INICIO LDA #0 STA 710 LOOP JMP LOOP *=$02E0 .WORD INICIO como se puede apreciar en el código tengo la variable M con un valor de 16 que realiza el bucle de SUMAMOSMEMORIA sumando de a $4000 bytes que equivale a 16384 y este resultado queda en MEMORY( $04 $40 $00) y eso quedo dejarlo como disponible ( $02,$07,$08,$05,$02,$08 ). Alguna idea de como realizar la conversión. traducción As you can see in the code I have the variable M with a value of 16 that makes the SUMAMOSMEMORIA loop adding up to $ 4000 bytes that is equivalent to 16384 and this result is in MEMORY ($ 04 $ 40 $ 00) and that is left as available ($ 02,$07,$08,$05,$02,$08). Some idea of ​​how to perform the conversion.
  8. Hey all, I haven't been using my TI much as of late, and I wanted to get back into things with a nice game of centipede. I don't own the game, but I have a ROM of it and in the past was able to play it using the editor assembler cart along with my nanoPEB so that I could assemble and run the game from my CF card. Unfortunately, I cannot remember how to do it now. Everything is set up, I have the editor/assembler diskettes on the CF card as well and they are working just fine. I can load the assembler and everything, I just can't figure out how to get this centipede assembly file working. From what I remember I need a .DSK file, and to copy that to the CF card, then I need to mount it on the TI into disk 3, then I need to call something like DSK3.CENT, but that doesn't seem to be working. Any ideas?
  9. Can someone help me do a very simple hack of Space Invaders where the aliens are blue instead of green. It would also be cool if there was a title screen that said "WUW", but if this is not possible or too complicated to pull of then I understand, and it's not completely necessary for what I'm trying to pull off. Mostly I would just like for the aliens to be blue. Can someone help me out?
  10. How do you organize your collection and manage the various cables, controllers and oddly shaped carts? the 2600 has various different shaped carts, if you stack them you can't easily stack the Matel games. what are some of your setups for storing / displaying your games. Large stacks are a pain to take a game in the middle out and easily end up in a mess when doing sso. When it comes to controllers, the joysticks are rather large and won't fit in a standard ziplock bag and the paddle controllers can get a bit messy. Given that some controller are needed for some games you simply can's leave one controller in your system. How do you prevent the ugly rat's nest of controller cables / av cables and everything else. So give your suggestions, show some pics and help the whole community reduce clutter.
  11. I don't know is I'm in the right forum but... I was installing the SMPS Player mod for Sonic & knucles collections by the instructions (without the HQ mod) but all seems quiet but the sfx (when I switch back the .dlls it seems to play fine, so the sound is on). P.S. I would ask on "sonic retro" but its pointless to make a forum account just to ask one question (I've done it before and now I'm bocked out of the raspberry pi forums because I forgot my username and password).
  12. Hi; Today I received a shipment of imagic carts for my 7800 and found that none of them would fit well enough to run. I researched a bit on the forums to find a solution. The given solution was i.e: Remove external housing Find "cart cup" clip corners with scissors I did this to one of the corners and tested before proceeding any further to limit any damage. It worked for most of the games, but one, cosmic ark. So, I clipped another corner of the "cup" and when I went to test it the console wouldn't turn on!!! As far as I can tell (have not removed shield) there is no pieces lose. I ordered a Atari jr. in the mean time so I could still play most of my library, but I would really like to be able to fix the console; It ran beautifully before I mutilated it (no sticky buttons, no game problems, etc.) My Question; Any suggestions to what may be the problem? Any similar experiences? Thanks, - Justin
  13. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  14. Could someone help me find out what value these four capacitors are? I'm trying to install a stereo Pokey and the previous owner of my 800XL (which turned out to be quite the frankentari) has recapped it, using huge tantalum caps that are so big I cannot get the pokey board to seat without a liftoff; if I use a liftoff I can't get the case to close so I need to change the caps. Thanks!
  15. This is my first post on any atariage forum, if this is the wrong place to post this topic, then I'll gladly move it. First of all, I just need to give out a big thank you to Random Terrain for the awesome tutorial page (I use it like a bB bible), atariage for this forum, and anyone who worked on batari basic/visual bB. So while testing out my first project this weird glitch came out of nowhere, everything works fine until the player touches (collides) with player1 (the finish flag). When this happens the game starts all over. I assume either a variable was messed up or misspelled, or perhaps players can't collide? (I don't need anything else fixed, I know the movement of the player sucks as well as the collision against walls. I'll be sure to improve those in Max's Maze 2) Max's_Maze_2017_11_2_1723.bas
  16. For some Reason, when you die on the first screen, you go back to the main menu. I have no idea why. Te only reason the player should go back to the main menu is if the player runs out of lives. Yet is goes to the main menu even if the player has 3 lives. I can't see my logical error. I really appreciate everyone who's helped me out. Thank you all! v2.bas
  17. Hey There, new to the forums here, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some help with my CX2600A Rev 8. I'm not sure if there is a nickname for this model.. its between the light sixer and the vader 2600s. I noticed last week that my 2600 video signal was almost unplayable because of how much snow there was in the screen. I have a little 1999 Sanyo CRT tv that I use for all my RF signal consoles (intellivision/ Commodore/2600) via a Female Rf to Coaxial adapter. It was a trifecta of video problems, general uniform fuzzy/snowy screen, over top that were horizontal rolling bars going bottom to top and over top that were diagonal bars going lower right corner to upper left. It had never been that fuzzy before, I noticed when I moved the RF cable going into the console the fuzziness would change. After taking apart the console and unplugging the video cable, I tried using a modern video cable (the same one I use on my Intellivision with crystal clarity) but the video problems persisted. After looking on these forums for hours I found possible solutions to the issue, but none of them worked - The green "chicklet" capacitor above the power modulator needs to be replaced ---> The CX2600A doesnt have a green chicklet capacitor above the power modulator -Stop using the ancient Rf Box that came with the console and use a Rf-Coaxial adapter ---> I already am -Stop the TV from auto-scanning to lock onto the 2600's signal better to reduce the snow ---> I tried this, the signal was the same -Try jiggling the cart, the game/ game port may need cleaning ---> Nothing happened -Try switching between Channel 2 and Channel 3, the Switch may be causing interference --> Channel 2 was a little better then Channel 3 (I'll come back to this later) -Make sure you are using the Power Adapter made for the Atari, to much/little power could cause video issues --> I'm using the original power adapter plugged into a power strip, plugging into the wall. -Install a component mod --> I have two separate tvs for different types of games. I have a flat screen for Component/HDMI and the Sanyo CRT for RF games. Call it personal preference but I want to keep the atari as a RF signal All that troubleshooting led me to believe it was either the female RF connector on the board itself or the RF modulator. Seeing as it would be easier for me in the long run, I modded the case and added a external RF jack on the outside of the case, wiring it with 18Gauge wire to the board after desoldering the old 37 year old connector. This helped A LITTLE BIT. It eliminated the diagonal rolling bars but the horizontal bars and snow were still present. After painstakingly desoldering the RF modulator shielding and the 5 pins connecting it to the board I pried the modulator off and found a spider nest inside the RF modulator shielding. After cleaning that up, resoldering everything back into place, I once again hooked up the system and nothing. It was the same terrible signal. In a last ditch effort attempt to fix it I desoldered, then resoldered the channel switch back on. This didn't fix channel 3. HOWEVER, channel 2 looks crisper then I've ever seen it. It isn't crystal clear like my Intellivision, the picture is fuzzy with a little bit of snow, and when testing with Air Sea Battle, the screen seems to warp inwards from the sides when the colors change. Is there any way I can get clearer picture from my system om Channel 3? I know how to solder and replace components, but I don't have a clue when it comes to the technical parts of electronics.
  18. So for school, I'm doing a project with a raspberry Pi, and I wanted to make a Atari 2600 emulator that used real cartridges connected to the GPIO ports. And I ran into a problem. If you have an Atari cartridge, you'd realize that the bottom has a weird protector. Anyway, I don't have an Atari 2600 system on me, so could you give me the dimensions so that I could make a 3d model to 3d print?
  19. Hello, today I became the brand new owner of a six switch atari 2600 which I got from an auction on ebay. I never owned an atari before, so I have a few questions about mine. When I got the system it was a little unstable, but that was fixed with a little solder to hold the power jack in place. Then I wasn't able to get a stable picture, but a bit of fiddling with the RF modulator and fine tuning the TV the atari is now functional, it however still has a few flaws. First, the sound doesn't really work, all I hear is loud static, I assume that this is due to the fact that my atari is from a PAL A region and my TV is PAL B. The colours are also off I think, combat game 0 is supposed to a beige(I think, I'm a little colourblind) but in my TV it's a puke green and neither of the tanks have any colour. Any help with these issues? I've attached a picture of combat game 0 as it appears on my TV. On a slightly different topic, I'm using the aerial lead that came stock with the system, but I'd like to have it output composite. If any of you have ever messed around with a ZX Spectrum there's a very simple composite mod and since both Spectrum and the 2600 use an RF modulator I was wondering if that mod would work on the 2600. Obviously it wouldn't have any sound, but I can always pull that out of some pad in the console if I'm not mistaken. The ZX Spectrum mod consists in disabling the RF modulator power supply and splicing the video input of the modulator and connecting it to a composite cable since the Spectrum RF modulator is converting composite to RF, is this also what's happening on the 2600? Thanks for reading all this, I'm a bit of a noob, I know.
  20. OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
  21. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  22. Do you have to desolder the speaker wires in order to be able to put in a new polarizer film? Thank you :3
  23. Hi guys, Let me start off by saying, I have no idea how to even begin doing a hack. (if that didn't scare you away from this thread, them maybe you can help me.) What I'm looking to do is change the color of the ship in Save Our Ship (NTSC version). The NTSC versions have a very bright and colorful ship. I would rather it be more of a brown color like the PAL versions, so that it's easier on my eyes and looks more like a wooden ship. What I'd like to do, is get information on how to go about this with the least amount of knowledge (right now, being zero). Of course, if someone thinks it would be easier to do this for me, than to explain to an idiot how to do it, then that's fine too... So,is there a simple way to show an idiot how to change the color? Then by all means, share your knowledge. If on the other hand, it's too complicated and you are feeling generous, I'd be very happy with someone else doing the work for me. It's up to you.
  24. I am trying to make a game for the 2600 and I am also learning BASIC. Every time I try to compile this, it says I have a syntax error on the first line. If you want an idea of how much programming I know, I've taken 2 programming programs and I've worked with C++ and a little C#. But I only used C# for making a Unity game. COLUPF = 128 COLUBK=02 scorecolor = 14 player0: %00000000 %00110110 %00100100 %10111100 %01111111 %00000110 %00000110 %00000000 end player0x =50 player0y =50 player1: %01111100 %00111100 %00001100 %00001100 %00001100 %00001100 %00001100 %00001100 %01111100 %11101100 %00010010 %00100011 %00111011 %00101111 %00011110 %00001100 end player1x=100 player1y=35 dim cute = 0 mainloop playfield: XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XX............................XX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX end if collision(player0, player1) then cute = 1 if joy0right then player0x=player0x+1 if joy0right && cute == 0 then player0: %00000000 %00110110 %00100100 %10111100 %01111111 %00000110 %00000110 %00000000 end if joy0right && cute == 1 then player0: %00000000 %01101100 %00100100 %00111101 %11111110 %01100000 %01100000 %00000000 end if joy0left then player0x=player0x-1 if joy0left then player0: %00000000 %01101100 %00100100 %00111101 %11111110 %01100000 %01100000 %00000000 end if joy0up then player0y=player0y-1 if joy0down then player0y=player0y+1 drawscreen goto mainloop
  25. I bought a an Atari 7800 at the pawn shop the other day. They plugged it in for me and everything seemed to work fine. I finally got around to playing with it(or trying) yesterday and it works fine for a few minutes and then the screen scrambles and makes a bunch of noise like i didnt have the cart in right to begin with(only after a couple minutes of playing fine). I replaced the voltage regulator attatched to the heatsink and all three capacitors but none of that did anything. Also something that looked odd to me was a resistor soldered to the leg of one of the chips. This could be normal but Ive never seen it before. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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