Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hyperkin'.
Found 14 results
-
It shouldn't be left to the community to fix Hyperkin's mistakes but @remowilliams went above and beyond with his CFW!
-
Hello all, I'm looking to modify my Hyperkin Ranger controller to make it fully compatible with all my 7800 games. It looks like all the pins are in use already. Can anyone give any suggestions on how to add a second fire button?
-
In this video I'm playing Jr. Pac-Man with a Trooper 2 controller by Hyperkin. This is the best way to Pac-Man/maze games in RetroPie.
-
Here's gameplay and commentary of Ms. Pac-Man for Atari Lynx played in Retro Pie with a Hyperkin Trooper 2 2600 USB joystick which I made a video about last week. Each maze starts off slowly then picks up speed, even the later mazes get off to a slow start. Is that normal of this game or is it just the rom?
-
A quick video I made of a USB powered 2600 joystick by Hyperkin called Trooper 2. This is for PC/MAC or Raspberry Pi. I'm using it to play Pac-Man games in Retro Pie.
-
... because hyperkin can't help me, I turn to the community! ? This console seems to have a life of its own. As if he chooses when he wants to work or not. First of all: the included SD card was damaged. Both the R77 and my computer were unable to read it. So I put another SD card (with the Hyperkin firmware) in the console and that seemed to work. Yes! A day later I ran into another problem: the console just won't start. Switching on and off ten times seemed to work for a while. But after that it really didn't work anymore ... example After some research on this forum I came up with a 'community build' Stella 6 firmware. I flashed this firmware on the SD card. And wow! SO MUCH BETTER ? !!! and the Retron 77 did it again. But then I ran into the same problem again: the Retron 77 stopped working a day later ... but after re-preparing the SD card with Stella 6, it worked again. And then a day later ... again the same problem. I've already tried several things: all older firmwares (including the Hyperkin firmware). Every time the Retron stopped working a day later. So weird! It doesn't make any sense ?!!! I also don't find any of these bugs on the internet. I would also like to unscrew the console to view the circuit board, but I'm afraid I will lose my warranty. Does anyone ran into the same issue?
-
If any of you have wondered about whether the Hyperkin Ranger could be modded into a two button controller for Atari 7800 compatibility- well, the day has come for that to become a reality. I came up with a way to pretty easily accomplish this, and I did it with a Nintendo Switch Joycon connected to the Ranger. It was done without using adhesives or drilling holes in controllers, so you can rest-assured there won't be any damage done to your favorite controllers. My tutorial video and review of the Ranger with footage of Dark Cavern and Kaboom! is found here, so check it out:
-
Hey everyone, This is a bit cheeky of me, as I already posted this in the Hardware section, apologies for this. I'm a bit stuck with adding an additional fire button to this controller, I've seen pin diagrams for 7800 controllers, but it looks like everything is already in use here. There looks to be an analogue to digital conversion too. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks ?
-
I talk about Mental Health Awareness Month for 2 minutes before playing Donkey Kong Jr. on my Retron 77.
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
- atari 2600
- donkey kong jr
- (and 2 more)
-
https://www.nintendolife.com/news/2017/01/hyperkin_shows_off_retron_5_3-in-1_adapter_and_nintendo_switch_accessories_at_ces With all the discussion of RetroBit's Game Boy, and the soon-to-be-revealed switch, I missed this. It seems Hyperkin is trying to boost interest in the R5 by releasing an adaptor that lets you play Sega Games other than the Genesis. This is exceptionally cool, since it does something that retrogamers have wanted for a while: creates a set-top version of the Game Gear. I've been hearing people wishing for that for almost 20 years now. OTOH, I wonder if this is a sign that the R5 is getting a bit long in the tooth? -
Seeing as how: Rikki & Vikki was coming out next week I didn't have any good 2 button 7800 controllers I recently picked up a new Hyperkin GN6 controller from my local Fry's for $5.74 I had been checking the Atariage store for almost a year now to see if the Seagull 78 was back in stock A search of the forums 2 days ago lead me to this post by Inky back in 2002: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/14872-genesis-to-7800-controller-mod/ The above mod uses extremely common and easy to find components that I already had on hand... I decided to mod my new Hyperkin GN6 for use on my 7800. After doing this mod and using the controller on the 7800 I think it rocks. I love it. This is now my favorite controller for the 7800. Disclaimer: Any person undertaking any activity mentioned or alluded to, described below, bears all responsibility for anything that happens to themselves, others, or to any property as a consequence of their actions. Regardless of the contents and wording of this post or resulting thread, I make no claims, assurances, recommendations, or anything else. This is just a detailed description of what I did. Nothing more. The mod: This mod is completely internal so there is no adapter to connect. My total project cost was less than $7 and that includes the $5.74 controller and sales tax. Well that and 2 hours of my time. I will be modding a second controller so hopefully that will take a lot less time now that I've already figured out all the build steps detailed below. I printed out the schematic from Inky's post: First I had to map out the DB9 pin connections to the wires soldered into the PCB with my multimeter. Note the PCB number markings *DO NOT* correspond the the DB9 (joystick plug) pins! (The 1 marking on the PCB *DOES NOT* indicate pin 1 of the DB9 connector.) I marked the above schematic with the corresponding PCB numbering to make it easier for me to perform the mod. I recommend that if you do the mod you verify that the connectivity in my Hyperkin GN6 controller is the same as yours. You do not want to be re-opening the controller later to try and debug/fix any wrong connections. The inside of the controller looks like this: I built the circuit from the schematic that Inky posted on a piece I trimmed out of a PCB prototyping board. Be *VERY* careful of the method you chose to trim down the board as you could produce lots of fine dust that is likely very harmful if inhaled. If you can't do it safely, don't do it at all. Here is what the board looked like after it was trimmed: I soldered the components to my prototyping board and used some solid core copper wire from a multi-conductor cable I had lying around to make the jumper connections (black wires). I also soldered 3 wires (white, blue, and black) to the board for later connection to the Hyperkin PCB. I recommend using solid-core copper wire because the stiffness makes it easier to work with and also holds the completed circuit in place inside the controller so that it doesn't rattle around. (I don't use tape or anything else to secure the mod circuit inside the controller.) The resultant mod board: I removed 4 of the joystick cable connections (wires) from the Hyperkin PCB and connected them to the appropriate spots on my prototyping board. Be sure to use solder to bridge the contact points labeled "8" and "9" on the Hyperkin PCB. This bridging is on the reverse (solder) side of the PCB and is not shown in the picture below: Next I wrapped the mod board with at least 3 turns of electrical tape to prevent anything from shorting to the Hyperkin PCB once the mod circuit is completed. Solder the three wires (white, blue, and black) from the mod board to the Hyperkin PCB points as notated in the schematic in the first picture of this post (assuming your board maps out to the same DB9 pins that mine does). You are left with something looking like this (I hadn't yet connected the black wire when I took the picture below): Now fold the mod board over the front side of the Hyperkin PCB and fit the Hyperkin PCB back into the front half of the controller shell. It should look something like this: Close it up and screw it tight. You're done! The controller will look just like it did before you started:
-
Is six feet enough?
-
I recently bought a Hyperkin Retron System to play my Nes collection on, so I didn't have to put more wear and tear on my Nintendo (replacement cart connectors get expensive after awhile! ). I really liked it, its so easy to set up and small enough to take anywhere with a tv, plus it plays my games pretty easily. Well, it got me to thinking, maybe there is a similar system to play Atari 2600 games on? Well, I had no luck finding one , so, I contacted Hyperkin to see if they would consider making one for the Atari Games. They said they would forward my email to their R&D department and look into possibly making one. Long story short, there may be a new system to play your old Atari games on to where you dont have to hack up your old machine to play it on a newer tv. And yes, the original system is still best, (im not selling my sixers, either one) , but if they put out a Retron System to play Atari games on,( for about $20-25 USD) would you buy one?
-
I just took the wireless peripherals for my FC Mobile II out of the closet. They've never been used. I've read they're pretty crap, being IR-based, and they just have a cheap feel to them on top of that. I have no complaints about the FCM II, it's as good as I expected it to be... but I have no idea what to do with these controllers. I don't plan to ever use them, and I don't even think I can sell/trade them, since they're useless without the console. Any ideas?
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord