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Showing results for tags 'joystick'.
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Just finished putting together and playing with a prototype board to plug in arcade sticks and buttons. Works with 2600+ and a real 7600 with two buttons. I added an adjustable 555 timer through a transistor to enable turbo-fire on the left button. There are two logic gates to control the turbo fire with the main button push. Next is to turn the prototype into a circuit board, but I'm very happy with it. I installed the board in an 8-bitdo arcade stick and it's great fun on games like Asteroids and Asteroids Deluxe. It's nice to tune in the auto-fire get a nice cadence for blasting those rocks!
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NEW! Vectrex Vectorlink Wired & Wireless Joystick Adapter #113 (limited white) https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW!-Vectrex-Vectorlink-Wired-and-Wireless-Joystick-Adapter-serial-number-113-(limited-white)/285693475981 eBay Seller: ductape Price US $0.01 (auction listing) Located in: Montgomery, Illinois, United States Item description from the seller Brand New! Vectrex Vectorlink Wired & Wireless Joystick Adapter #113 (limited white) From Sold Out Batch #3 (yes, batch #4 is coming soon, but if you can't wait please feel free to bid, thank you!) Please see product demo and manual here: https://playvectrex.com/vecstore/vectorlink If you are looking for a controller, recommendations are here: https://playvectrex.com/vectech/vectorlink/controllers Starting bid: $0.01 Comes with everything you see pictured except the metal tray! ALL 6 of the vectrex stickers and 2 vectrex magnets you see pictured are included! All proceeds from this auction will go back into making more Vectrex related products and content. Thank you! Please check all shipping options carefully. PlayVectrex "Design. Build. Play!"
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Hello, I apologize if this is the incorrect place to ask questions of this nature, but it was the forum I thought was best for posting my question. I bought an Atari Classic Wireless Joystick to play various titles including Atari titles on my PC. The webpage from Atari for the joystick states that it can be used with a PC. Anyway, when I plugged in the joystick to charge, my PC recognized it. Post charging, the instructions say to press the button with the Atari logo quickly in order to start the pairing process. It also says the logo will appear lighted and blink for a short time period while you pair the joystick. Unfortunately, my PC is not showing the joystick as a device I can connect while the light is blinking; so I have no way to pair the wireless classic joystick with my PC. I'm assuming I must be doing something wrong, as the joystick is recognized when I plug it in to the PC to charge via USB. All my other wireless devices show up, so I'm not sure what the problem could be other than something I'm doing myself incorrectly. Does anyone know and can list for me the specific steps for what I must do in order to get the wireless classic joystick to show up on my PC to pair it? Is there some extra driver I'm supposed to download or something? (I've looked, but can't seem to find anything like that) Thanks in advance.
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I am selling this joystick made by me. Laser cut and engraved wooden case. Possibility of customizations. Possibility to configure the two buttons with the same function or with separate functions where supported. The joystick is very precise and has microswitches on both the lever and the two buttons. DB9 connector obviously. They are for sale on eBay, I ship from Italy. I'll post the link for those interested: https://www.ebay.it/itm/166527055748
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Right now there is a small company called RetroGameBoyz.com , who is currently designing various control schemes for the intellivision if you either have an intellivision 2, or an Intellivision 1 with an INTV 2 adapter. It's supposed to let you play four way and 8-way games on an Intellivision and teams up with the keyboard in a way that acts like the regular INTV control set. I'm currently showing interest. The only thing they can't do well is a 16-way joystick. I know enough about the intellivision controller scheme to know that it's not an easy thing to do to either make a 16-way joystick or to make it interface with the intellivision well. I was thinking of using a PC 15 joystick because that was analog. I understand the basic technique would be to divide the whole analog range into 16 wedges and one bullseye, and then convert those into digital 16-way joystick using the Intellivision logic. Also other than the disc, I have no idea how a 16-way fight stick could be constructed. I know on fightsticks, 2 primary directions combined the form secondary directions. It would be a very complex and hard thing to do to turn a primary plus a secondary in between to be a tertiary. I understand mechanically the intellivision disc just had 16 regions on the disc each encoded to a separate joystick code. I don't know if converting a PC 15 joystick directly to intellivision joystick code by dividing it into 16 wedges and one bullseye would be low enough ping to make gameplay worth it. Is there already a pre-existing item which lets you run a large stick that could be 16 ways for those Intellivision games? Honestly I was never an Intellivision guy in my youth but as I grew older, I learned to appreciate some of these older systems better. Originally I thought the NES d-pad was just a rehash of the Intellivision disc and thought it would go nowhere quick. And originally I thought it LOST functionality because you couldn't play it right-handed. Shows what I knew. It just sent my thumb is too imprecise to really play these thumb pads well. That's why I move most of my gameplay to large handheld sticks. Though it might not be good for fighting game purists, I think I got an analog joystick working in a arcade panel size format by using an Xbox Adaptive controller. Just wanted to see if there was any pre-existing stuff that let you run a PC 15 joystick as a 16-way plus neutral Intellivision control interface. By the way Retro Game Boyz did do a good job with their Genesis to 5200 adapter. I can play any digital 5200 game with my fight stick set on Genesis mode. (Maybe except the games that have run time errors when x squared + y squared is greater than 100% squared. Qix is an example of one of them.)
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Up for grabs is a pair of tested working Wico "The Boss" joysticks that will work with most db9 pin game systems including all pre 90s Atari consoles and Commodore 64/ Vic 20. Only selling as a set. Asking $34 shipped to anywhere in the US. If elsewhere you'll have to pay extra for shipping.
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When in the Stella debugger how do you make joystick movements? When I try the arrow keys the player doesn't move. I don't have a numeric keypad on my laptop. Thanks
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Hello there :) Would a DB9 to usb cable make it possible to use the atari joystick to play emulators on pc? Will it register input? USB 2.0 to RS232 DB9 Link: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0758BWVXF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EJ5HWJR2DVX7W4J0S9BX?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_dls_failed I asked the support teams of this cable from Amazon. They told me they don't know but I should try comparing/matching the pin assignment. Unfortunately I have no clue. Does anyone have experience or have the tools to try? Greetings from Poland ??
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Hi, Did you ever think that the Atari joystick can be a wireless one ? This video is demo of a project that transforms and original Atari joystick to wireless Joystick The joystick signals are captured using an Adafruit 433 Arduino , with a lipo battery and On/Off switch. The Arduino transmit radio signal for each position of the joystick and for the button as well Another 433 Arduino "listens" to the radio signals , and transfer it a another Arduino micro that simulates signals of a joystick, connected to a raspberry Pi with an Atari emulator This cool and functionality gives us a smooth and fun and modern experience using an original joystick You can watch the video in this link : https://youtu.be/5quNEPNrHyw Enjoy Eran
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Hi, Did you ever think that the Atari joystick can be a wireless one ? This video is demo of a project that transforms and original Atari joystick to wireless Joystick The joystick signals are captured using an Adafruit 433 Arduino , with a lipo battery and On/Off switch. The Arduino transmit radio signal for each position of the joystick and for the button as well Another 433 Arduino "listens" to the radio signals , and transfer it a another Arduino micro that simulates signals of a joystick, connected to a raspberry Pi with an Atari emulator This cool and functionality gives us a smooth and fun and modern experience using an original joystick You can watch the video in this link : https://youtu.be/5quNEPNrHyw Enjoy Eran
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I got this old Colecovision from Creig’s list which is pretty dirt, controlle is fine, everything works perfect as it should except the joystick which only works if I push it to the right SOMETIMES if I’m playing a game and push the controller to the left hard enough it might make my character move slightly to the left, the other directions don’t work at all Here’s what the inside looks like
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Hi, I am looking for a solution to connect and transfer signals from a Windows or Linux to Atari 2600 console I mean , I would like to send joystick signals like (up, down, left , right , button click) from the PC Windows to the console joystick port (without using a joystick) Any ideas how to produce this functionality ? I understand that the Atari Joystick does not works on 5V of On/Off signals , but closing each time a different circuit. How can I simulate this behavior with other device ? maybe Arduino or other device ? Any suggestions ? Eran -
Although I probably would not want to marry her- my love for Carol Shaw runs deep. River Raid was one of the first games that got me "into the zone" whilst playing. So I took the chance and had myself a joystick made by a fine german guy here named David L. You can look him up @ http://www.norths.de/ Ergonomically it's far from a 10/10, but apart from that it plays very fine, and I mean- look at it, right?! Just wanted to share some 2600 love across the pond. Hope you and your loved ones are healthy. All the best for 2021, Nick
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I've come up with some new ways to use Switch Joy-cons on the Atari 5200 Console (as well as other Atari consoles), and there's some really good news about the two stick games, Robotron 2084 and Space Dungeon. They feel great being played with thumbsticks. The two stick method requires that you'll need to purchase the following items: 1) Two Ikonsgr74 (Ebay) 9 pin to Atari 5200 controller adapters 2) Two 8bitdo Retro Receivers for the Sega Genesis 3) Two cords around 5 to 8 inches long that have 9 or more internal electrical wires 4) Two Male 9 pin solderless connectors (db9) and two female 9 pin solderless connectors (db9). 5) Nintendo Switch left and right Joycons with Grip/recharger. After you have these items just follow the instructions I have for you here (explained midway into the presentation) to get it all set up (soldering a wire onto the board of the 2020-released Ikonsgr 9 pin to 5200 adapter is required): -
If any of you have wondered about whether the Hyperkin Ranger could be modded into a two button controller for Atari 7800 compatibility- well, the day has come for that to become a reality. I came up with a way to pretty easily accomplish this, and I did it with a Nintendo Switch Joycon connected to the Ranger. It was done without using adhesives or drilling holes in controllers, so you can rest-assured there won't be any damage done to your favorite controllers. My tutorial video and review of the Ranger with footage of Dark Cavern and Kaboom! is found here, so check it out:
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Earlier this year I finally broke out my Tron joystick only to find it didn’t work. Opened it up and sure enough the flexible ring had cracked and broken. After searching for a replacement I came to the conclusion that there weren’t any so I worked with a friend to try to make a 3D printed replacement. He came up with a pretty great design which is actually more durable than the original while retaining good flexibility. I figured I would share it with the community for anyone else looking to restore one of these Tron joysticks to full function. Enjoy! Tron Joystick insert
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Let me preface this by saying that this is my first time on AtariAge and frankly, I'm a kid who has no idea what he's doing- But that's why I'm here! Also apologies if this isn't the right place for this post. Let me know if I should repost in another place. It's my Dad's birthday soon and he's always dreamed of being able to play Robotron 2084 with arcade joysticks again. I'm trying to find the easiest and cheapest way to get him that experience again. I have Midway Arcade Treasures on Gamecube, but the Gamecube controller joysticks don't do the trick for him. I also am in no position to spend thousands of dollars on a cabinet or buy parts and learn to make one. I wish there were a console/emulator(?) I could buy that I could connect via HDMI into a TV, and a dual joystick setup that I could plug into it. What's the easiest way to play Robotron 2084 with classic arcade joysticks? Thank you all in advance. Apologies again for my ignorance of any of this. I've tried doing some research on my own, but it's been more complicated than I expected.
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After experimenting for weeks I have found a way to get lag-free control on the 5200 digital games as well as a few of the Trakball titles with the X-arcade Tankstick and my custom Tron 80's Arcade Multicontroller (which includes a spinner). This is done with daisy-chained adapters/cables and all the components are currently in production, so it's possible for anyone to get this set up. In the presentation I show a number of 5200 games being played in ways you've not seen them played before on the 5200 including Pac-Man, Beamrider, Choplifter, Dreadnaught Factor, Meteorites, Star Trek, and Zone Ranger. Hope some of you can benefit from this:
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Intellivision controller membrane replacement
AlwaysOnPlanetPatrol posted a blog entry in Rose-Tinted Recollections
Other than my main Atari 7800 console, the other (retro) console that gets a workout in my household is the Intellivision. I've always found the controls frustrating, especially the disc. Since I have two systems, I can actually compare what they are supposed to be like since one seems to have the controls working properly. The unit that's a bit more beat up cosmetically is the one that seems to function better. So I'd like to get the main unit we use working in the same way. I searched for replacement controllers, considering building my own out of arcade parts, and even debated about swapping the controllers. In the end I came across RWAP's replacement membranes. Interesting enough, I found the original thread here at AA after purchasing them. I have an Intellivision I, made in Hong Kong circa 1979 so I figured perhaps over the years the component degraded and worthwhile doing the replacement. I ordered mine and about a week or so they arrived from the UK. May have arrived sooner but with Covid-19 I wasn't really going to the mailbox every day. The pair of membranes look in pristine condition and pretty much identical keypad buttons. Here we are in 2020 and one can get amazing parts for an old system. Having done replacements in various Atari controllers, the Intellivision version takes more patience and I personally found it tricky. Unscrewing the controllers shows the simple (non-)mechanical nature of this controller. The trick to get these out is to slide the side buttons up. The 5 layers should come off easily. My circuit boards said REV E 1 and 2 for each of the controllers. The Replacement Process Open the controller by removing the four screws Once open take out the disk and the spring. Keep track of the plastic thin disc that goes between the two controller layers. Slide up the two side buttons. Pull out the entire plastic circuits. Nothing should be attacked or glued to the controller. I suggest you make a note of the order. The replacement pieces come gently pre-folded. On the two shorter keypad pieces do a proper fold on the two sides. The better you fold it, the nicer it will sit snugly on the controller. On my controller, the attached foam pad ended up being too thick. I used the replacement pad provided. Peel the thicker pad gently. Fold the longer membrane with the clear piece sitting in between. DO NOT fold it too much or you may break the circuit lines, fold in the clear sections to keep its shape. No that the disc contacts are set lower than the keyboard, so you will need to. There should be two plastic pins above and below the keyboard that allow you to guide the mylar replacements and provide alignment. The tricky part will be to replace it. Align the longer parts focusing on the keypad section. Place the two smaller keypad pieces above it. Push the two side button sections in and put the buttons back in. You may need to push the sides in a bit more although I found the action of putting the buttons back helped. Make sure the disc section sits centrally. Place the white disk between the clear and the bottom layer. Place the spring and the plastic disc controller over the circuit. Screw the controller case back in. I should note that the first time I installed it, I skipped the plastic thin disc and nothing worked properly. That's when I also noticed the bulge due to the thicker pad. Layer Order The layer with the circuit contacts with the foam attachment goes to the very bottom, while the gold keypad will be the top layer. The transparent long piece will go in between the two longer circuit membranes. Observations It's a tricky set-up and takes patience. Before this I never bothered to see how the internals of the Intellivision worked. It's great that RWAP included the thinner variety of the foam pad. For Snafu or Space Armada, I can notice the difference. For Pac-Man and Lock'n'Chase it's pretty much the same, so I'm guessing it's the game or my skill. I will probably order another pair just to have the parts. I'd love to find replacement brand-new side buttons or disc just to spruce things up a bit. Overall I'm very happy with the replacement part. -
There's now a way to use the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball on your 7800 to play some specific games that really can be extra fun with that kind of controller. The games I have in mind are Alien Brigade, Centipede, Crossbow, Crack'd, Commando, Dark Chambers, and Xevious. I've spent some time figuring out what adapters are necessary to accomplish this, and even included info on using other PC compatible controllers like my custom Tron 80's Arcade multicontroller with the 7800. Check it out:
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Today I've got something interesting to share in the 2600 controller department. There is now an Ebay adapter that you can obtain pretty cheaply (made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr) that gets a PC USB mouse/trackball working on the 2600. The catch is that: #1) only USB mice and trackballs that have PS/2 compatibility will work (and those that have PS/2 plugs need to be adapted to USB with a cheap little green PS/2 to USB adapter). #2) This only works with the digital games (not the paddle games). The really great news is that #1 can be remedied by buying an Aten KVM switch that converts USB (non-PS/2) mice and trackballs into PS/2 compatible devices. These are not cheap (over $50), but can open up possibilities of playing your 5200 with some quite interesting controllers, including the X-Arcade Tankstick which has a trackball (shown in the picture below) and this as well: https://www.ign.com/articles/2006/02/03/x-arcade-trackball-review The video below starts with using the 2600 to play Mines of Minos, Cosmic Swarm, Centipede, and Off the Wall, and then goes on to the 7800. I start the explanation about the X-Arcade Tankstick trackball around 16 and a half minutes in (showing it work with 7800 Centipede) so you'll probably want to not miss that part. Also there's 5200 compatibility with an additional adapter so that might interest you as well. Hope this is beneficial to some of you The products: Here's the link to the PC USB mouse/trackball to 9 pin Atari adapter (sometimes the Ebay product goes out of stock, and then gets restocked, so definitely keep checking back if it's not available): https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Mouse-Adapter-For-Atari-ST-Amiga-Amstrad-Commodore-9pin-DB9-Joystick-Port/274204936054 Here are two links for the PS/2 to USB mini green adapter (1st one may not be based in the U.S. & is cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMX89XA#Ask https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUV4UK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MOoDEb7Y5HZVV The Aten KVM Switch (Model CS82U) is necessary to get non-PS/2 mice and trackballs working on your Atari systems and is found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QOBZXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZgpDEbQPRJ199
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So I decided to build myself an arcade authentic, full-featured twin-stick arcade controller for the 5200...to properly enjoy the 5200 ports of Space Dungeon and Robotron: 2084. Lots of people have made Robotron: 2084 themed controllers, I've even built one for the 8-Bit/7800, so I figured I'd break the mold and build one themed for the 5200 exclusive arcade port of Space Dungeon. So unveiling my Space Dungeon Edition - VVG Experience Controller: Built into a beefed-up Hammond Mfg 20" x 11.25" aluminum enclosure and featuring: (2) iL EuroJoystick, 8-way joysticks w/ round restrictors (2) iL SST threaded top joystick shafts (2) Groovy Game Gear Hard Candy ball knobs (white) (2) Groovy Game Gear Classx push-buttons, w/ True-Leaf Pro leaf-swtiches (1) Grayhill 16 tactile button keypad, w/ custom button legends (6/6) Potentiometers, allowing for full adjustment of each joystick's maximum left, center, maximum right & maximum up, center, and maximum down resistance values for maximum game and console compatibility Custom CPO artwork based on the original arcade cabinet Custom 8' dual controller cord, cable assembly And obviously as the P1/P2 start buttons aren't required for Space Dungeon, they are wired as the 2 5200 fire buttons used in conjunction with the left joystick, thus giving this controller compatibility with the vast majority of the 5200 game library. The only games not playable are the few games that require "analog positioning", like Kaboom!, Super Breakout, Pole Position, Missile Command and a couple of others. Enjoy!- 20 replies
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There I was, in garage sale heaven. Standing over a box of second hand XBOX controllers. I got a little less excited when I noted how second hand they were. I thought I would salvage parts and asked, "How much?". She said, "$2". I said, "OK." He looked like he just lost an old friend and his wife was telling herself, "I should have said 3!" Fast forward 16 months and I'm sorting them into a box labeled "electronic recycle" because I was to lazy to open them up for salvage. One did catch my eye, it was an undersize wireless controller that made me think, "Can the d-pad and a trigger button be wired to plug into my Atari?" Fast forward another couple of months and I'm playing Star Raiders with an XBOX Controller. At least one got saved from the landfill. -------------------------------------------------------------------- These photos were taken for reference. 1 - The controller was a 2.4 Ghz wireless MadCatz. (Receiver not avalible.) 2 - The main board after removing the transmitter and battery holder. 3 - Removed 2 screws and lifted the D-pad. 4 - Cut off existing wires. 5 - Solder wire for up, down, left, right, and Ground (common). Note wire colors, mine not standard. 6 - Contacts in placed and wires routed. One of the cross pieces in the plastic bracket needed to be remove for the board to sit flat. Solder joint interference. 7 - Cut a notch in case for CX40 cable. 8 - Solder 2 wires for trigger switch. One for the trigger pin and one for the ground. (solder joints are for a different design that didn't work so well. They didn't need to be moved.) 9 - Clean off resistive material across B contacts and solder micro switch as close to center as you can. Be sure the plunger will make contact with button. (the wires could have been soldered to the push button switch and glued into place.) 10 - Solder leads to joystick cable. UP-Pin1, Down - Pin2, Left - Pin3, Right - Pin4, Trigger - Pin6, and other side of trigger and common on d-pad - Pin8. 11 - Because the push button was to high, the plunger needed to sanded shorter. 12 - On the upper case, the button guide required some material removal to keep from depressing the switch. 13 - Put the case together. Be sure wires are not pinched or interfering with button movements. The case was opened and closed several times to make modification before the trigger reliably worked. I was really close to giving up. There was a bit of lucky with the d-pad. This joystick tester came in handy. I think it saved me more time then it took to build it.
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Hey all, I am new to this retro collecting thing and recently received this joystick in an Atari 2600 lot I bought. From what I've been able to find, this seems to be a VIC-20 joystick, which apparently didn't sell too many before being discontinued due to a lawsuit from Atari. I'm looking for more information on this from people who are more familiar with the subject. Anyone here have any ideas on how rare it is? Is this something people are looking for? I noticed the joystick doesn't have much movement.. could it be locked up? Is it something I should open up and take a look at? The story itself seems really interesting, so I was looking for some more info on it. Any conversation on it would be great!
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Hey Guys... I'm wondering if enough people have some version of the Flashback joysticks to start to actually start checking for those special button presses (I believe one of them is "left+right", something you would never hit in real life games... except maybe for Track & Field), one of them is "up+down", etc. There should be a list somewhere of this button mapping... I think I may start doing that, as I can't see it hurting anything. If someone doesn't have the joystick, there's always the 'Start & Select' on the console... Bob Also, (unrelated topic) - I bought one of those hyperkin joysticks (the one with the two buttons on it), and I'm going to rewire it to be the left & right buttons for the 7800... just because of Baby Pac-Man... Much easier to use
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