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I have an interesting joystick from Spain: Telemach 200. I'm looking to trade for other rare joysticks. The joystick has arcade components, Industria Lorenzo stick. It has a 9 pin connector. I use it on 2600. There is a switch on the back for other systems, (Amiga?). There are 4 suction cups on the bottom. I'm most interested in homebrew joysticks. But also various rare or quality that I don't already have. I mainly play 2600. Also Vectrex. I can use db15 gameport analog joysticks on Atari with an adapter that I have, which I like and which is another trade option. Possibly arcade or industrial joystick components. Old Pong console modded to work as VCS Paddle controllers!!!! ... Atari Game Brain, H.E.R.O., Montezuma's Revenge... VecMulti for Vectrex..

Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.

I am assuming the 2600-dapter II makes joysticks appear as normal game controllers to Windows. Will the dapter II allow my paddles to work like paddles in Atari800WinPlus? Stella? http://www.2600-daptor.com Thanks I suppose a better question is: does Atari800winplus support real paddles? I find that Stella does, but can't find any info about Atari800winplus.

When I run STEEM with a disk game I can use my controller no problem, but when I make a folder and run games from the hard drive the joystick refuses to work. Anyway I can solve this issue?

Anyone have a Quickshot III for Colecovision?

Looking to buy my favorite CV controller of all time: the SpectraVision Quickshot III. Please contact if you have a working one available.

I just found some pretty cool stuff in my parents basement. It's the last of my collection that I didn't have any idea that existed. I don't know what to say about it. The last time I used any of it was many many years ago. I'm taking offers. There can't be worth that much. So if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. I have the following: NES fourscore Playstation Dual Shock 2600 driving controller 2600 paddle controller x2 RF switch Suncom Tac-3 Goldstar 3D0 controller Sold R-Type for the Sega Master system Gone. Like I said earlier I haven't used these in many years. The last time I used these, they worked fine. I don't have a way of testing any of them. So I'm selling them as they are. Edit-I'm also up if someone has a copy of Nights for the Saturn if anyone has one available.

I'm looking for ideas on a new design for the Atari Pro CX-1000. You can see my current designs HERE As you can see we have Atari boxing, Q-bert, Pac-man, Pitfall! and Donkey Kong. I'm currently working up a design for Berzerk. So tell me, what game would you like to see made into the next Atari Pro joystick?

So, I've been watching review videos and reading about quite a few different joysticks that were/are availible for the 2600. Different people have different opinions on what they like and why they like them. I'm sure threads like this have been done over and over, but some people may have gotten different controllers or changed their mind since the last time a similar thread was started. What I'd like to gain out of this is a little bit of insight into "WHY" people like one joystick/controller over another, so that I, or others, can possibly put that information to use while searching for our own "favorite" controller. I know nostalgia plays a large role in some people's decision and that's fine, but for this thread, I'd rather we all stick to the actual features and design of the joystick. In other words, the things that make it work well. I'll start with the controllers I have in my possession right now. The Atari CX-40. In standard form (no upgraded parts), It seems to have a little more play in the joystick than I'd like. Also, it really doesn't have a definitive stop position. I'm sure I push it much harder than I need to, because there's no feedback telling me the switch has been activated. These things have held up to 30 or more years of abuse and most of them still work. Anytime your hand wears off the factory paint and the joystick is still working, that's a win in my book. The Atari Flashback Joystick. This one had me on the fence for a while. I liked the feel of it more than I liked the CX-40, because there was just a bit of feedback letting me know I had activated the switch. Also it took less force to move, but at the same time, it had more play in it. I used this joystick for a while though. The build quality isn't great, but I feel like these would last if you don't get carried away and break the stick off. Epyx 500XJ. This one had good reviews from a lot of people, but I'm not sure I will ever be one of them. It does have nice clicky switches and almost no play in the stick. The issue I have with it, is the placement of the fire button and the size of the controller. The fire button feels awkward. This may be due to the placement, I'm more used to using my thumb, or it could be that I have a hard time holding it well due to it's size/shape. I can't knock it's build at all. The set I have are in great condition despite their age and how many hands they passed through before I ended up with them. The Wico, Command Control (Bat). This is another one with a lot of people standing behind it. It's well built and has the added feature of using the standard fire button on the base, or switching to the one on the end of the joystick. I really wanted this one to be my favorite, but after using it, I just wasn't sure about it. I felt like it was too large overall and the throw of the stick was more than I wanted. It just ended up feeling a little clumsy and awkward. If you like actual arcade controls, this one has that feel. I just don't think it has the precision I want when playing. Modified NES gamepad (For 2600 or 7800 with both fire buttons working). This was meant to be the go to controller for me, since it has a nice precise directional pad and very responsive fire buttons. In the end, it turned out that it wasn't as comfortable as I remember. I hadn't held one in over 20 years, so my memory of it being comfortable were either wrong or my hands are just too "OLD" to use it. I even went so far as to add a tiny ball top joystick to the D-pad to see if it would be easier on my thumb, but it didn't help. Modified SMS gamepad (again, 2600 or 7800). Another try at making a gamepad that I remembered as being comfortable to use. The D-pad is really sloppy on the Sega Master System controller. There's no precision at all with it. The basic shape is the same as the NES, so it just didn't agree with my hands. 7800 Prolines. I wasn't a fan of them at first, but they started to grow on me. I shortened the sticks on them, which lessened the throw. This was a big improvement. The stick and the buttons have a nice tactile click to them, so you don't just keep forcing it like on the factory CX-40s. I haven't used these for extended periods of time, so I'm not sure if they would cause my hands to cramp up, but I'm guessing they would, just because of the odd shape and the fact that my hands aren't happy with NES or SMS controllers anymore. There's not a lot to say about the paddle controllers really. I guess if I were to make one point about them, it would be that the "Gemini" paddles are stiffer feeling than the Atari ones. That means for me, the Gemini ones are more precise, but there are many factors to this. My Atari paddles may be more worn or the pots may be different in the Geminis. My advice on the paddles is, don't pay any attention to my experience with the ones I have, since it may not apply to all the paddles out there. The driving controllers and keypads I have, haven't seen much use, so I don't even have an opinion on them. Now, Here is what I consider to be my favorite Joystick/controller, right now... It's the CX-40, but not in it's factory state. I'm talking about the ones I've upgraded with the Best Electronics Gold PCBs, new fire buttons, springs,boot rings, boots, and new handles. I don't want to sound like an advertisement for Best Electronics, but it's hard not to, if you've tried out their Gold PCBs. However, i didn't buy the other parts from them, since I found a much better price for upgrade kits (everything but the PCB) on eBay. I actually had a small issue with one of the Gold PCBs, but it was easily corrected with a couple of emails to Brad (Best Electronics), It's not even important enough to go into detail about, since it was probably a one in a million issue.. What makes the new PCBs so nice, are the new domes. The old ones didn't click and were kind of mushy feeling to me. Of course they were old, but I don't think the original dome contacts were much better new.The PCB feels more substantial and there's a nice thick plastic layer that keeps the domes from "walking", then a thinner protective layer on top that adheres to everything, making a nice enclosed set of switches. As far as the gold coating goes, I know it's important, but it has nothing to do with how the controls respond. Once I had the joysticks reassembled with the new parts, there is almost zero play in the stick. There's a nice click in each direction and when you press the fire button. It's extremely easy to tell that you've activated the switches. I'm sure these are better than they ever were, even when brand new. I have around $40 total in the two joysticks, not counting the initial cost, which was basically zero, since they came with my 2600. If you have an old set, I feel it's worth $40 to rebuild them, but I don't know if I'd feel as good if I spent much more than that. Keep in mind, I'm on a fixed income, so $40 to me is equal to $100 for most people. Best Electronics sells NEW CX-40s with upgraded PCBs, but I couldn't justify spending that much when I already had a pair of them here that I could rebuild for less money. Now, that's my opinions on joysticks and controllers. I want to hear from other members here. I'm always willing to try a different joystick if it's something I can hunt down for a reasonable price.

This is a 6 button 8 directional gamepad for the TI-99/4a natively. (No Adaptors needed) It's meant to be a D.I.Y. project. Total cost to me was Aprox. $19.00 US for 2 gamepads and 20 diodes. Controller Source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAM862S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Diode source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6Q3RE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know who created the original schematic, I find it all over the web. But the original in the upper left of my picture below is of a 2 port atari adaptor for the TI-99/4a created by someone else. Same goes for the pin out diagram for the TI side including the 2 db9 pictures. Add to that other materials used (solder, wiring, glue) for pennies PLUS time and you have yourself 2 TI-99/4a Gamepads, one for each console. If I were asked to build one for someone, I'd ask for $20 $40 per joypad completely modded as shown. I had to up the price because it takes me a couple of hours to complete a mod on one Joypad including setup and breakdown times. I highly encourage you all to do this MOD yourself but if you really want me to do it for you, I have to ask for more money due to time. Looking at the attached picture will show you how I did this with the materials I had. I'll give some notes here: 1. Plan ahead with your own drawings that you understand. Your wire colors may differ depending on the controller you go with. Test them all and make your own chart for pin#, colour, board location.You'll want a controller that has all 9 wires to be certain. Sega Genesis controllers are like that as far as I know. 2. Test every wire and connection from the cable end to the connection ends as you go along. Check all solder points and pad connectivity as you go. One at a time. 3. It's easiest to do the Joy1 and Joy 2 connections first since they do not have diodes associated with them. 4. Be sure to isolate all traces. I used a dremel to obliterate the logic chip in to dust and cut all the lines. I isolated each solder point the gamepad already had and made sure joy1 and joy2 check lines were isolated from each other. review the photo and follow the traces. It should all make perfect sense. 5. I used Hot Glue to hold things in place and I applied it as I went along ensuring I isolated all possible shorts (using hot glue as an insulator). 6. I also drilled holes next to all the already connected wires on the board to allow me an easy path for my connections. You can see the unused holes in the picture for lines 1->7 and 6->5. 7. I was fortunate that the gamepad board had exposed round pads of bare solder. I suppose those were for Q/A testing. I drilled holes next to the ones I needed for new connections. I had to scratch the enamel off the common trace for J1 Signal sitting in the middle of the 4 directionals due to lack of circle solder pad. You can see the circle pads I soldered to, there are a few unused. Look at the ones near the middle buttons that went unused in the picture below.... 8. Be careful not to short any bare wires, be aware not to close holes that were there already (for encasement pins) and of course be aware of your drilled holes when applying hot glue if you choose to mimic my method. 9. I borrowed a program from another Topic thread to test. There was a typo in the original, find it and fix it. - Source = http://atariage.com/forums/topic/166557-proplay-new-4-button-gamepad-for-ti/?p=2058171 Already fixed and slightly customized code. Note: I think it's inefficient for game controller code but works for testing. My Test Results. 10. Use it as intended. - You can certainly use this gamepad as a single player Joy1 for any existing games you have. OR play two player games on one gamepad.(WHuh?Why? I know) However; the joy 2 buttons are just that, for Joy 2. So if you press them in conjunctions with Joy1 buttons in a game such as PARSEC (pressing up on both Joy1 and 2 at the same time) it will allegedly cause glitches or something undesirable (no damage just in game controller glitch). Don't blame the joypad. If you connect two TI joysticks and did the same thing, you'll probably get the same glitches. It doesn't make sense to use the controller in this way for existing games that aren't coded for this. 11. Further modifications were necessary. The bottom half of the controller housing has cylinders molded in to fit flush against the PCB. I needed to give 'em a little shave with the dremel to fit the wiring and hot glue. 12. Don't hold me responsible if you destroy the planet by attempting or using this modification. Or even if you break your console or something less destructive than destroying the entire planet. I knew the risks and now you do too, If you follow these instructions, any part of them, in real life you do so at your own peril. Just because it worked for me....doesn't mean it'll work for you in the sense that it could have been my fault. Last but not least. You will need games specifically coded to work with the full functionality of this controller. The game pad directionals and the X button are the Joystick 1 directionals and fire button. Y/B/A/C/Z buttons are for Joystick2 as follows in same order Up/Down/Left/Right/Fire. I attempted to make my connections standard. So anyone who wants to make their own 6 button gamepad for the TI to code for, please take in to account the button assignments. Together we can establish a new standard in TI gaming and ensure our programs work across the board with any controllers folks my make on their own utilizing this Topic Thread,. THE START BUTTON IS UNUSED AND DOES NOTHING. Of course, I rate this project as easy for an ametuer. But do ask and learn, I used a heat sink for every solder point to protect the diodes. I don't know it that's unnecessary, but I did it anyway. Thanks to everyone here for encouragement and help. Now it's time to start making games that can take advantage of this design and layout. Get creative. Street Fighter? Tanks game where you can move one way and rotate the turret another? Puzzle games where you have to control 2 characters to solve the puzzle ? (Castle of Dr. Creep anyone? - (C64 game) or The Goonies?) RPGs with spell, attack, defend, jump, dodge buttons? What would you like to play on your TI with a 6 button gamepad? Make it, Code it, Play it. Share it. Do it.

OK, Here's my first try at adding images to a post, so hopefully it works. The first photo shows the "Prototype" coupler I built for playing Robotron using 2 2600 joysticks. It's made of layered plywood, 25x5x2 inches with 12 inches between the joysticks and weighs around 2 pounds. The joysticks are removable. They have 2x2 inch velcro squares under each of them and the joysticks fit securely in the holes even without the velcro. It has 2 holes in the front edge to allow the cords to come through along with a nylon carrying handle in the front and 4 non-slip feet on the bottom. I added a chrome strip between the two joysticks, just to break up the all black look and to better fit with the 7800 console. My score on Robotron tripled the first time I used this thing! The next photo shows a couple of custom controls I did for the 7800. The gamepad is a modded NES controller, with a small ball-top joystick added to the directional pad, and the start and select buttons removed. I also did a quick and dirty paint job, along with a new overlay and Atari logo, just as a test mostly. My masking tape failed around the logo, so the edges there look really bad. It was the first one I made before I started selling them, so I still like it. The 7800 proline in the photo has a shortened throw, by cutting down the joystick and the original knob and adding a rubber buffer to keep the joystick from being forced too far in any direction. I'll add more photos as I finish the other projects I have in the works.

Has anyone bought bought a Competition Pro Retro joystick from ICOMP ? The joystick seems advertised as msx compatible http://wiki.icomp.de/wiki/Competition_Pro_Retro but it lacks the second button (button B). It has two couples of buttons (one upper and one lower on the basis) and a switch (4 buttons + 1 switch total). Sadly, all buttons insist on the same A line and the switch can only activate or deactivate the upper couple of buttons. Is there someone who modified it to support the msx second button?

*** NOW AVAILABLE !!! *** Special Collector's Box Edition of Rain of Terror... with Joystick support !! By popular request, Rain of Terror now includes Joystick support !! (also still supports the original Paddle experience as well of course) Rob and I have also made some other minor enhancements to the game. This updated version with Joystick support is available now as a physically-packaged Collector's Box Edition including: - Custom full-color Collector's Box (illustrated front+back and inside) - Illustrated User’s manual - Program disk with printed label and disk sleeve: Side 1: Rain of Terror (New Joystick + Paddle version) Side 2: Bonus material - Each limited box and disk is printed with a unique serial number - Some additional surprise items will be included in the box, just for fun For a limited time: While supplies last, the Collector's Box Edition will feature a very cool BLUE floppy disk! $28 USD plus shipping from the USA. To order or get a shipping quote: PM me on AtariAge, or you can email me at erichennekeATgmailDOTcom Thanks!!! -Eric

I have a Electra Concepts Masterplay Interface 5200 in excellent condition, adult games Custer's Revenge and Eat'em & Best'em all FOR SALE... also 2 Wico Command controllers (joystick and keypad)

I'm just wondering if anyone around here might still have a new old stock Wico Command Control bat top style joystick for Atari systems that they might be interested in selling? I do have a couple other purchases I have to make first so I wouldn't be in a position to buy one until April, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask around in advance and see if anyone had one they'd be interested in selling and if so what they'd like to get for it price wise. Just shoot me a PM if you happen to have one that you'd like to sell.

For sale, Commodore 64 arcade joystick: The Commodore 64 Pro CX-1000 Arcade Joystick will work with both the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600. The Commodore 64 Pro is custom made with a genuine arcade quality Industrias Lorenzo 8-Way EuroJoystick with CHERRY microswitches. Button(s) are Happ concave buttons. The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Highly sought out by cabinet builders since the quality standard is higher than the new, yet slightly lower quality HAPP standard. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $18 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. $63.95

****UPDATED October 20, 2017**** Scroll down to see photo's. Atari, Commodore 64 and Sega Master System controllers for sale. I've tried to make these a bit more budget friendly but still have a nice design with quality parts. I can do button placement on the right or the left of the joystick. PM me with special requests. The joysticks are made with IL Eurostick joysticks* with cherry micro switches. The buttons are concave Happ buttons. Cables and strain relief boot are brand new. Nyloc nuts are used to prevent loosening over time. The Atari joysticks work with both the Atari 7800 (two buttons) and the Atari 2600 (both buttons act as "fire"). * The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Poorly lit video demo of joystick in use: https://youtu.be/0KPjN-yAEDI What I have to offer: Standard Edition in both Black and White. $68.95 Special Edition Controllers with Atari characters (Boxing, Q-bert, Pitfall, Etc.) $75.95 AND UP (Depends on design - see photo's/pricing below) Single button 2600 Edition $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Commodore 64 Joystick $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Sega Master System (Mark III) $68.95 (Works with the Sega Master System) Orders are accepted for anything you see here. If it's not in stock I can make one for you. Lead time is usually 1 1/2 to 2 weeks depending on what parts I need to order. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $17 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. STANDARD EDITION BLACK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION BLACK - RIGHT SIDE JOYSTICK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION WHITE: ($68.95) SPECIAL EDITION BOXING: ($74.95) SPECIAL EDITION Q-BERT: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PAC-MAN: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION DONKEY KONG: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PITFALL: ($85.95) SPECIAL EDITION DOUBLE DRAGON: ($77.95) 2600 SINGLE BUTTON EDITION: ($63.95) COMMODORE 64 EDITION: ($63.95) SEGA MASTER SYSTEM (MARK III): ($68.95)

While I was searching the Internet for a potential metal case to use for a custom 5200 joystick, I came across a GORGEOUS joystick, except it's for the 7800... Then I got to thinking... WHAT IF... someone merged that case and stick design with one of these... ... there is obviously room in the case to fit it all. While the finished product would not be cheap, the overall cost would be less for an all-in-one than for one that required multiple cases. It would also have the extra benefit of taking up less space. A right handed version would be PERFECT! Sadly, like most things I think are perfect... they simply do not exist!

I just purchased an Atari Space Age Joystick, but the red trigger fire button doesn't work. Everything else works fine, and is super smooth, but only button won't work. Can anyone make any suggestions as to how to fix it cause I'm at a loss as it is very different from a standard joystick.

I just thought I could get a quick question about this project I found (http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/atari_usb/index_en.php) which uses a ATMega8a. In the schematic, they connect the analog pins the the Atari 9-pin port. This makes sense for pins 5 and 9, which are used for the POTs, but shouldn't the designer of the circuit use the digital pins for the joystick pins?

Hey everyone. I'm trying to get a general idea as to what joystick is great for the 2600. Any ideas? Thoughts?

Just put up my new article on the transition from joysticks to gamepads and what caused people to prefer the gamepads. My viewpoint is that gamers were looking for improvement in their hand comfort and the NES gamepad felt better than holding a joystick. Agree? http://www.nerdko.com/2016/10/29/from-joystick-to-gamepad-the-untold-story-of-what-nintendo-did-for-video-game-controllers/

Been using the Retrobit 9pin-usb adapter for joysticks. Works a treat with emulators and my old wico stick for when I had the real computers. Thought I'd share with all. RT

HI guys, I'm afraid I don't quite understand how to link to the Gallery like the pinned post said. I don't see the code they are saying to copy on my Gallery page. I hope using a URL link is okay instead. http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/1747-darth-dukes-atari-corner/