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There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.

I've owned a few of these. Still have my original from the early 80s. I used to dislike the overall feel because to me they felt a little cheap. But after decades of service, and owning several, they sure as hell aren't "cheap". The ergonomics are a bit wonky, and the "feel" is a little off .... but they are ultra reliable (never had to take one apart for maintenance), and they are very accurate. The colors aesthetically match the XE series too; just a minor bonus for me. Now, for better or worse, I'm just used to them, as it's been my standby/go-to if other sticks were down for maintenance. Now it's just my main stick. Was looking at picking a few more up and noticed the ones I have (and have had) all have a depression on the underside and two screws on the joystick side. Most of the ones for sale have no bottom depression and have an additional screw holding on the joystick casing. Any comments, thoughts, or other insights on which variation is better? Should I go out of my way to stick with the variation I'm used to or is the other variation superior in some way. Thanks

Three controllers in one! MiniVex 3-in-1 Deluxe for the Atari 2600 / VCS provides a joystick, driving controller, and paddle all in one unit, PLUS a detachable mini-paddle to add a second player to paddle based-games. Play all your favorite games, one after the other, with no need to unplug and plug in all the different controller types. The original 3-in-1 has a switch for toggling between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The Deluxe instead has a jack for the mini-paddle, so your trash-talking buddy can challenge you in Street Racer. Joystick has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new internal parts are used, so NO jittering during driving or paddle games. Either button can be used with any of the three controls, making it friendly for both right and left handers. Cases are made of tough steel; your dog cannot chew them to pieces. Note: these are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. 30-day repair guarantee. Please see photos below and check out this link to see the MiniVex 3-in-1's and all my other items currently available: eBay Seller: classicgamesandcarsfan Thanks for stopping in. Larry

Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:

New MiniVex controller for Atari 2600 / VCS combines a joystick, paddle, and driving controller all in one unit! Up until now, MiniVex controllers were made for the Vectrex (with the exception of the MiniVex Pedal I, which is compatible with both Vectrex and Atari) but this one is strictly Atari compatible. Compact size fits right in your hand, see second photo for size comparison. ONE cord and ONE plug, you can play your favorite games, one after the other, without having to unplug and plug in all the different controllers. Case is made of tough steel, has a weighty feel to it. Two toggle switches on the back. One selects joystick or paddle function, and the other toggles between paddle "A" and paddle "B." The black button on the back enables and disables the driving controller. Two buttons for your convenience, no matter if you're left or right handed. Either button can be used with any of the three controllers. Driving controller on the left, paddle on the right. Joystick in the center has the feel of an analog stick but functions like a digital one. All new parts used in the making, so there'll be no jittering during Breakout or Indy 500. This and other MiniVex controllers are hand-made by me, so they aren't cosmetically perfect. They do come with a 30-day repair guarantee. A handful of these will be auctioned on eBay during the next few weeks, as they get made. The hand-making process is slow, and how many will ultimately be made remains up in the air at this point. Please see this and my other eBay listings under seller name "classicgamesandcarsfan." Larry

If you were making an Atari 2600 Arcade what joysticks would you use? What style of arcade quality sticks would you use to be the most playable for the games and the most authentic to early Atari / US based arcade games? I was thinking the IL Eurostick or the Happ Competition pro do any of you have any other suggestions?

This is a 6 button 8 directional gamepad for the TI-99/4a natively. (No Adaptors needed) It's meant to be a D.I.Y. project. Total cost to me was Aprox. $19.00 US for 2 gamepads and 20 diodes. Controller Source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAM862S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Diode source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6Q3RE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know who created the original schematic, I find it all over the web. But the original in the upper left of my picture below is of a 2 port atari adaptor for the TI-99/4a created by someone else. Same goes for the pin out diagram for the TI side including the 2 db9 pictures. Add to that other materials used (solder, wiring, glue) for pennies PLUS time and you have yourself 2 TI-99/4a Gamepads, one for each console. If I were asked to build one for someone, I'd ask for $20 $40 per joypad completely modded as shown. I had to up the price because it takes me a couple of hours to complete a mod on one Joypad including setup and breakdown times. I highly encourage you all to do this MOD yourself but if you really want me to do it for you, I have to ask for more money due to time. Looking at the attached picture will show you how I did this with the materials I had. I'll give some notes here: 1. Plan ahead with your own drawings that you understand. Your wire colors may differ depending on the controller you go with. Test them all and make your own chart for pin#, colour, board location.You'll want a controller that has all 9 wires to be certain. Sega Genesis controllers are like that as far as I know. 2. Test every wire and connection from the cable end to the connection ends as you go along. Check all solder points and pad connectivity as you go. One at a time. 3. It's easiest to do the Joy1 and Joy 2 connections first since they do not have diodes associated with them. 4. Be sure to isolate all traces. I used a dremel to obliterate the logic chip in to dust and cut all the lines. I isolated each solder point the gamepad already had and made sure joy1 and joy2 check lines were isolated from each other. review the photo and follow the traces. It should all make perfect sense. 5. I used Hot Glue to hold things in place and I applied it as I went along ensuring I isolated all possible shorts (using hot glue as an insulator). 6. I also drilled holes next to all the already connected wires on the board to allow me an easy path for my connections. You can see the unused holes in the picture for lines 1->7 and 6->5. 7. I was fortunate that the gamepad board had exposed round pads of bare solder. I suppose those were for Q/A testing. I drilled holes next to the ones I needed for new connections. I had to scratch the enamel off the common trace for J1 Signal sitting in the middle of the 4 directionals due to lack of circle solder pad. You can see the circle pads I soldered to, there are a few unused. Look at the ones near the middle buttons that went unused in the picture below.... 8. Be careful not to short any bare wires, be aware not to close holes that were there already (for encasement pins) and of course be aware of your drilled holes when applying hot glue if you choose to mimic my method. 9. I borrowed a program from another Topic thread to test. There was a typo in the original, find it and fix it. - Source = http://atariage.com/forums/topic/166557-proplay-new-4-button-gamepad-for-ti/?p=2058171 Already fixed and slightly customized code. Note: I think it's inefficient for game controller code but works for testing. My Test Results. 10. Use it as intended. - You can certainly use this gamepad as a single player Joy1 for any existing games you have. OR play two player games on one gamepad.(WHuh?Why? I know) However; the joy 2 buttons are just that, for Joy 2. So if you press them in conjunctions with Joy1 buttons in a game such as PARSEC (pressing up on both Joy1 and 2 at the same time) it will allegedly cause glitches or something undesirable (no damage just in game controller glitch). Don't blame the joypad. If you connect two TI joysticks and did the same thing, you'll probably get the same glitches. It doesn't make sense to use the controller in this way for existing games that aren't coded for this. 11. Further modifications were necessary. The bottom half of the controller housing has cylinders molded in to fit flush against the PCB. I needed to give 'em a little shave with the dremel to fit the wiring and hot glue. 12. Don't hold me responsible if you destroy the planet by attempting or using this modification. Or even if you break your console or something less destructive than destroying the entire planet. I knew the risks and now you do too, If you follow these instructions, any part of them, in real life you do so at your own peril. Just because it worked for me....doesn't mean it'll work for you in the sense that it could have been my fault. Last but not least. You will need games specifically coded to work with the full functionality of this controller. The game pad directionals and the X button are the Joystick 1 directionals and fire button. Y/B/A/C/Z buttons are for Joystick2 as follows in same order Up/Down/Left/Right/Fire. I attempted to make my connections standard. So anyone who wants to make their own 6 button gamepad for the TI to code for, please take in to account the button assignments. Together we can establish a new standard in TI gaming and ensure our programs work across the board with any controllers folks my make on their own utilizing this Topic Thread,. THE START BUTTON IS UNUSED AND DOES NOTHING. Of course, I rate this project as easy for an ametuer. But do ask and learn, I used a heat sink for every solder point to protect the diodes. I don't know it that's unnecessary, but I did it anyway. Thanks to everyone here for encouragement and help. Now it's time to start making games that can take advantage of this design and layout. Get creative. Street Fighter? Tanks game where you can move one way and rotate the turret another? Puzzle games where you have to control 2 characters to solve the puzzle ? (Castle of Dr. Creep anyone? - (C64 game) or The Goonies?) RPGs with spell, attack, defend, jump, dodge buttons? What would you like to play on your TI with a 6 button gamepad? Make it, Code it, Play it. Share it. Do it.

There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.

There's a little controller adapter that I came across on Ebay which can allow 15 pin gameport PC controllers to work on systems like the 2600 which have 9 pin controller ports. I bought it here: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 I've spent some time playing some of my 2600 games with PC controllers and I have to say it's really breathed new life into some games I would've not given much thought to playing. I've produced some footage for you if you're interested here:

Hello All, Hopefully relevant to someone here: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715476628 Before listing, I had no idea these were desirable or rare. Any info appreciated as to "why" if anyone happens to know. Also selling an Atari 1040STf (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715477837) and a Commodore 64C (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 173715479035). Regards

Hi, I loved Battlezone when it came out in the 1980s. I just discovered yesterday I could play it online via my PC. I have to use the arrow keys and space bar to aim and fire. I'm looking for a joystick with a usb that I could use. Any suggestions on joystick/controller that will work, and where to buy it? Thanks, Chris P.S. I can't wait to get higher scores using a joystick.

I've been playing some SHMUPS for Jag recently (Raiden, Xenon II) and was thinking how nice it would be to have a big fat arcade joystick on my lap for playing these. How hard would it be to adapt the Eladdin joysticks that are on the AA store for the 7800 for use with the Jag? Would a cable do it? There really aren't many action buttons on a lot of these games and I feel like it's doable in regards to button function/needs. Or is there a better solution for a Jag arcade pad? I've only seen highly custom one-off's in the past...

Today I've got some information to share on how you can get your Playstation controller working on your Colecovision with adapters. This required some experimenting with using a current-day USB hub with power supply. Check out my results here: Here are the adapters you'll need: 1) 9 pin Sega Genesis extension cords (2) 2) Edladdin Seagull 78 controller adapter (converts Genesis controllers to be fully-compatible with the Atari 7800) 3) Tototek Joypad Converter version MD (converts Playstation controllers to be compatible with the Sega Genesis console) 4) PS1 Multitap 5) Speedlink Redeemer Beyond Total Control Playstation 2 mouse/keyboard adapter 6) powered USB hub with power supply The method: 1) Plug in a Colecovision controller into port 2 of your Colecovision (consider connecting a 9 pin extension cable to it in case you want to sit a little ways away from the console.) 2) Plug a 9 pin extension cable into port 1 of your Colecovision, but don't plug any adapter into it yet. (wait) 3) Connect all the above adapters/PS1 Multitap together but leave the Seagull78 adapter unconnected to the 9 pin extension cable that's plugged into port one of the console. 4) Plug your Playstation controller into port A of the multitap 5) Plug the Speedlink Redeemer into port B of the multitap 6) Connect a powered USB hub (with power supply plugged into the wall) to the lower USB connector of the Speedlink. 7) Turn on your Colecovision and use the keypad of the port 2 Colecovision controller to make your game selection and start up the game. 8 ) Now plug in the adapters to the extension cable that's plugged into port 1 of your Colecovision and play your game with the connected Playstation controller. This method works for many, but not all Colecovision games. The ones that are incompatible with this method are the ones which don't allow a keypad controller that's plugged into port 2 of the console to start up the game, but only a keypad that's plugged into port 1 of the console. If you want to know how to get around that with a 9 pin splitter cable method, take a look at the video presentation. The nice thing about using Playstation controllers is that both buttons- not just one button- will work in the games that have the 2 button access. Another really nice aspect is that you can use a flightstick to play games like Zaxxon and River Raid. Also, it's nice to be able to use an arcade stick to play games like Q-bert or Ladybug.

I've managed to have success getting adapters plugged in to the Colecovision for the purpose of getting Playstation controller compatibilty. Watch the experiment in action here: Here are the adapters you'll need: 1) 9 pin Sega Genesis extension cords (2) 2) Edladdin Seagull 78 controller adapter (converts Genesis controllers to be fully-compatible with the Atari 7800) 3) Tototek Joypad Converter version MD (converts Playstation controllers to be compatible with the Sega Genesis console) 4) PS1 Multitap 5) Speedlink Redeemer Beyond Total Control Playstation 2 mouse/keyboard adapter 6) powered USB hub with power supply The method: 1) Plug in a Colecovision controller into port 2 of your Colecovision (consider connecting a 9 pin extension cable to it in case you want to sit a little ways away from the console.) 2) Plug a 9 pin extension cable into port 1 of your Colecovision, but don't plug any adapter into it yet. (wait) 3) Connect all the above adapters/PS1 Multitap together but leave the Seagull78 adapter unconnected to the 9 pin extension cable that's plugged into port one of the console. 4) Plug your Playstation controller into port A of the multitap 5) Plug the Speedlink Redeemer into port B of the multitap 6) Connect a powered USB hub (with power supply plugged into the wall) to the lower USB connector of the Speedlink. 7) Turn on your Colecovision and use the keypad of the port 2 Colecovision controller to make your game selection and start up the game. 8 ) Now plug in the adapters to the extension cable that's plugged into port 1 of your Colecovision and play your game with the connected Playstation controller. This method works for many, but not all Colecovision games. The ones that are incompatible with this method are the ones which don't allow a keypad controller that's plugged into port 2 of the console to start up the game, but only a keypad that's plugged into port 1 of the console. If you want to know how to get around that with a 9 pin splitter cable method, take a look at the video presentation. The nice thing about using Playstation controllers is that both buttons- not just one button- will work in the games that have the 2 button access. Another really nice aspect is that you can use a flightstick to play games like Zaxxon and River Raid. Also, it's nice to be able to use an arcade stick to play games like Q-bert or Ladybug.

I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 5200 & 2600 like Meteorites & other 80s versions of Asteroids to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on Star Trek Strategic Operations Simulator and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). It also will not be a preferred method of control with 5200 games that already have the benefit of innately working in an analog way with an analog controller (Missile Command, Super Breakout, Dreadnaught Factor, and Star Wars Arcade). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Beamrider and Gyruss are completely beyond awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 5200. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The following adapters will be connected to that flightstick: 1] A PC gameport to Atari 5200 15 pin adapter. (Source: bohoki here at Atariage makes them) 2) An Atari/Amiga controller 9 pin to PC gameport controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 makes them) 3) Best Electronics Atari Systems to Sega controller Convertor cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 4) A Tototek Joypad Counverter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: Replace adapters 1,2, and 3 with a Masterplay Clone adapter, and user the Tototek with it. One more method: Use a PC gameport to 5200 15 pin controller adapter with an Innovation SmartJoy Emulator adapter (Playstation to PC gameport adapter). The latter adapter is not easy to find at a reasonable price these days. If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go:

I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 2600 and 5200 like Asteroids (2600), Gravitar (2600), Meteorites(5200), and Star Trek (2600 & 5200) to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on The Earth Dies Screaming and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Gravitar is especially awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 2600. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The latter mode is similar to what is offered by the Atari Trakball for the 2600 and Atari 8 bit computers when it's in joystick mode. It delivers pulses when making smaller movements to slow things down a bit. In other words, it gives a pseudo-analog movement of your character/ship. To get it to work on the 2600, you'll need the following adapters between the 2600 and the flightstick: 1) Best Electronics Sega Genesis controllers to Atari Systems Adapter cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 2) A Tototek Joypad Converter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: 1) Buy a hard to find adapter made by Innovation that converts Playstation controllers to 15 pin PC gameports called the Smartjoy Emulator Adapter. (Source: Ebay (as of right now these are quite expensive)) 2) Obtain an inexpensive 15 pin PC gameport to 9 pin Atari/Amiga/Amstrad controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74) Methods for getting the Madcatz Flightstick connected to your 5200 are found here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/284238-new-discovery-for-going-beyond-digital-control-on-your-5200-games/?do=findComment&comment=4140266 If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go: https://youtu.be/igynk3Tfy6E

I've put up the latest presentation that has to do with playing and collecting 5200 games. This is filled with a lot of game footage as well as info on controller adapters as well as the Trakball. Enjoy!

Lots of pics ahead. Hello, everyone! I am parting out my Atari 5200. The audio circuit is toast, and the cost of another board is more than I want to invest in it. Also, I want to put some 5200 parts out there that might be needed by fellow collectors waiting for them. I have a number of 5200 parts for sale, and they are all working 100%. All prices include shipping to the US 48 contiguous states. I accept PayPal or local pickup. Here we go! SOLD (2) Atari 5200 CX52 Gold Rebuilt Joysticks. I personally ordered the gold kits from Best at about $50 each with the shipping. I personally rebuilt and tested the joysticks. They have about three plays each on them from testing. As Best says, they should be lifetime joysticks. I can sell them as a pair shipped together or individually. $79 shipped individually, $150 shipped together if bought by the same person. (1) Atari 5200 Power Supply. Works 100%. $25 shipped. (1) Atari 5200 RF Adapter. Works 100%. $25 shipped. SOLD (1) Atari controller storage door. The plastic door at the back of the unit that always gets broken or someone already lost. This one has been polished up nicely and has only a few scuffs left here and there. Bottom hinge points are intact. $25 shipped. (1) RF Metal Shield. Shiny and complete. $10 (1) Atari 5200 Box. It’s complete and all sides are present. I’d guess it had styro when new, but empty currently. If you’re looking for one, and don’t have one yet, you can do much worse than this one. I’ve displayed it in my collection and thought it looked good. Most boxes seem to go around $80 on eBay. I can do $40. Games, games, games! Priced as marked, includes shipping to con US 48. All are tested and working. Boxed Games All five are complete boxes. They all have tab wear where they are opened and closed, but the bottoms are great. See pics for more detailed look at them. (1) Super Breakout – includes box, cart, overlays. $7 (1) Centipede – includes box, cart, manual, and overlays. $7 (1) Missile Command – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pac-Man – includes box, cart, and overlays. $7 (1) Pole Position – includes box, cart, and manual. $7 Loose Games (1) Centipede $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Missile Command $4 (1) Football $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Star Raiders $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Pac-Man $4 (1) Galaxian $4 (1) Super Breakout $4 (1) Dig Dug $4 That’s the list! If you see something you’d like, but don’t like the price, make me an offer. I’m flexible. It’s more important to me to get this stuff out to the Atari community than to try to make big bucks. Also, adding pictures over the next few minutes as the forum allows. Thanks, everyone! - Blaine Pics of first joystick:

Does anyone know a way, from the command line, that I can disable the built in joystick setup in this emulator? By default the emulator seems to work with any connected USB (or in my case bluetooth Xbox One Pad) - but the button layout is horrific, it assigns all buttons to fire!!! So I would like to use Xpadder to control the emulator and script my own buttons to hotkeys to control it better. But because the joypad is always being used I cannot do that. In the Windows version I can find no command line switch to turn off the pad - there is a "-nojoystick" in theSDL version :-( Anyone got any ideas? sTeVE

Looking for a little help with the Windows version of Atari800 (not Atari800Win Plus) - over on the emulation board - joypad options... sTeVE

Got something unique for everyone here who might want to try a really different analog control method which is effective on a good number of 5200 games. This mod brings a new purpose to your Atari 5200-compatible Wico Command Control Splitter cable along with your 2600 analog paddles. This project goes a step beyond just modding a 5200 controller to have a paddle added in place of the joystick which many have accomplished over the past number of years. It allows for two paddles to be utilized simultaneously on certain games that might use two fire buttons (ie. Moon Patrol, Tempest, Dreadnaught Factor) or on games that have only one fire button, but two axes of motion in action (ie. River Raid). I'm figuring this way of control is new territory for all Atari fans, which could give just about anyone here a new desire to retry some of the old favorite games they may not have plugged in for quite a while. 5200 games are really quite unique when compared to the games of the other 80's game systems because of the analog aspects of its controllers. This mod takes advantage of that, and gives you a totally unique and fun avenue to breathe new life into some of the classics. Enjoy

As I am continuing to develop my first game, I ran into an issue that I couldn't find any information on. I would like to have the system detect the controllers on startup. This way, I can support multiple controllers in the game without using the difficulty switches or some other U/I system to select controller types, simply plug-and-play. I first had the idea of using the fire button to get past the splash screen of the game. However, moving the joystick instead could put the game into paddle mode, which wouldn't be good. So instead, I discovered that you can simply dump the capacitors for the paddles, wait long enough (512 scanlines works), and then read INPT0 (and INPT2). And that's it. Here's the code I wrote, which works perfectly. If a paddle is connected to the left I/O port at startup, the screen will be red. Otherwise, the screen is black. CLEAN_START sta WSYNC ; ensure a whole scanline is spent dumping capacitors lda #$80 sta VBLANK ; dump paddle capacitors to ground WaitLoop sta WSYNC stx VBLANK ; (X=0) stop dumping capacitors sta WSYNC ; waste 2 scanlines per iteration dey ; Y starts and ends as 0 bne WaitLoop ; wait 512 scanlines in loop (511 after grounding caps) lda INPT0 ; D7 set if left paddle is connected, clear otherwise bpl Joystick lda #$46 ; set bg color to red to signify a paddle, else black sta COLUBK ; in a game, you would set a bit in RAM, instead Joystick I attached a .bin and the source code. Obviously, try it on a real system if you can, but it works in Stella, as well. paddletest.bin paddletest.asm

So, I've been watching review videos and reading about quite a few different joysticks that were/are availible for the 2600. Different people have different opinions on what they like and why they like them. I'm sure threads like this have been done over and over, but some people may have gotten different controllers or changed their mind since the last time a similar thread was started. What I'd like to gain out of this is a little bit of insight into "WHY" people like one joystick/controller over another, so that I, or others, can possibly put that information to use while searching for our own "favorite" controller. I know nostalgia plays a large role in some people's decision and that's fine, but for this thread, I'd rather we all stick to the actual features and design of the joystick. In other words, the things that make it work well. I'll start with the controllers I have in my possession right now. The Atari CX-40. In standard form (no upgraded parts), It seems to have a little more play in the joystick than I'd like. Also, it really doesn't have a definitive stop position. I'm sure I push it much harder than I need to, because there's no feedback telling me the switch has been activated. These things have held up to 30 or more years of abuse and most of them still work. Anytime your hand wears off the factory paint and the joystick is still working, that's a win in my book. The Atari Flashback Joystick. This one had me on the fence for a while. I liked the feel of it more than I liked the CX-40, because there was just a bit of feedback letting me know I had activated the switch. Also it took less force to move, but at the same time, it had more play in it. I used this joystick for a while though. The build quality isn't great, but I feel like these would last if you don't get carried away and break the stick off. Epyx 500XJ. This one had good reviews from a lot of people, but I'm not sure I will ever be one of them. It does have nice clicky switches and almost no play in the stick. The issue I have with it, is the placement of the fire button and the size of the controller. The fire button feels awkward. This may be due to the placement, I'm more used to using my thumb, or it could be that I have a hard time holding it well due to it's size/shape. I can't knock it's build at all. The set I have are in great condition despite their age and how many hands they passed through before I ended up with them. The Wico, Command Control (Bat). This is another one with a lot of people standing behind it. It's well built and has the added feature of using the standard fire button on the base, or switching to the one on the end of the joystick. I really wanted this one to be my favorite, but after using it, I just wasn't sure about it. I felt like it was too large overall and the throw of the stick was more than I wanted. It just ended up feeling a little clumsy and awkward. If you like actual arcade controls, this one has that feel. I just don't think it has the precision I want when playing. Modified NES gamepad (For 2600 or 7800 with both fire buttons working). This was meant to be the go to controller for me, since it has a nice precise directional pad and very responsive fire buttons. In the end, it turned out that it wasn't as comfortable as I remember. I hadn't held one in over 20 years, so my memory of it being comfortable were either wrong or my hands are just too "OLD" to use it. I even went so far as to add a tiny ball top joystick to the D-pad to see if it would be easier on my thumb, but it didn't help. Modified SMS gamepad (again, 2600 or 7800). Another try at making a gamepad that I remembered as being comfortable to use. The D-pad is really sloppy on the Sega Master System controller. There's no precision at all with it. The basic shape is the same as the NES, so it just didn't agree with my hands. 7800 Prolines. I wasn't a fan of them at first, but they started to grow on me. I shortened the sticks on them, which lessened the throw. This was a big improvement. The stick and the buttons have a nice tactile click to them, so you don't just keep forcing it like on the factory CX-40s. I haven't used these for extended periods of time, so I'm not sure if they would cause my hands to cramp up, but I'm guessing they would, just because of the odd shape and the fact that my hands aren't happy with NES or SMS controllers anymore. There's not a lot to say about the paddle controllers really. I guess if I were to make one point about them, it would be that the "Gemini" paddles are stiffer feeling than the Atari ones. That means for me, the Gemini ones are more precise, but there are many factors to this. My Atari paddles may be more worn or the pots may be different in the Geminis. My advice on the paddles is, don't pay any attention to my experience with the ones I have, since it may not apply to all the paddles out there. The driving controllers and keypads I have, haven't seen much use, so I don't even have an opinion on them. Now, Here is what I consider to be my favorite Joystick/controller, right now... It's the CX-40, but not in it's factory state. I'm talking about the ones I've upgraded with the Best Electronics Gold PCBs, new fire buttons, springs,boot rings, boots, and new handles. I don't want to sound like an advertisement for Best Electronics, but it's hard not to, if you've tried out their Gold PCBs. However, i didn't buy the other parts from them, since I found a much better price for upgrade kits (everything but the PCB) on eBay. I actually had a small issue with one of the Gold PCBs, but it was easily corrected with a couple of emails to Brad (Best Electronics), It's not even important enough to go into detail about, since it was probably a one in a million issue.. What makes the new PCBs so nice, are the new domes. The old ones didn't click and were kind of mushy feeling to me. Of course they were old, but I don't think the original dome contacts were much better new.The PCB feels more substantial and there's a nice thick plastic layer that keeps the domes from "walking", then a thinner protective layer on top that adheres to everything, making a nice enclosed set of switches. As far as the gold coating goes, I know it's important, but it has nothing to do with how the controls respond. Once I had the joysticks reassembled with the new parts, there is almost zero play in the stick. There's a nice click in each direction and when you press the fire button. It's extremely easy to tell that you've activated the switches. I'm sure these are better than they ever were, even when brand new. I have around $40 total in the two joysticks, not counting the initial cost, which was basically zero, since they came with my 2600. If you have an old set, I feel it's worth $40 to rebuild them, but I don't know if I'd feel as good if I spent much more than that. Keep in mind, I'm on a fixed income, so $40 to me is equal to $100 for most people. Best Electronics sells NEW CX-40s with upgraded PCBs, but I couldn't justify spending that much when I already had a pair of them here that I could rebuild for less money. Now, that's my opinions on joysticks and controllers. I want to hear from other members here. I'm always willing to try a different joystick if it's something I can hunt down for a reasonable price.