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Found 113 results

  1. hey all, new to the forum but have been creeping wtihout being a member for a while now.. a few months ago i bought a 7800 system without any cables or controllers, i had the video, ordering the power was easy enough, but given the general review of the proline controller, i decided to build my own controller from arcade parts. seems to have worked out okay for the most part, the 2600 and 2600 games recognize the controller right off. i used http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219466-diy-7800-arcade-stick-help/this post as a rough guide, including the pinout incorporated therein. the major difference is the base wire i'm using is chopped up cat5e, mostly because its what i had laying around the house. now for the particulars, i have 620 ohm resistors in the ground wires for each of the two buttons, and diodes in the lines running to pins 5 and 9. without the diodes i get a weird auto fire feature mentioned elsewhere in the forums. the ground wire for each button has its own line running to pin 8. as far as i can tell everything is wired "correctly" based against info found elsewhere in the forums. so thats good.... except using xevious as a test cart, i can use my joystick, but not the buttons. like i said running it against seaquest using the 7800... everything works fine. xevious or asteroids for the 7800... get me nothing. interesting side note, joust, robotron, and galaga all seem to work fine from what i can tell any ideas on what went wrong?
  2. I rebuilt a couple of CX40 joysticks tonight using the gold plated PCB boards from Best Electronics. Of course I also replaced the orange fire button, the fire button spring, the white inner handle and the black outer handle cover. The gold plated PCBs and new handles have a great feel to them. I played a few games of Centipede to take them for a test spin. More and more I am finding that the four rubber feet and even the black outer handle cover are turning to that black inky goo like the 410 drive belts and the 1027 printer heads. Now I need to find some more worn out CX40s to rebuild! Bill
  3. Hello Atarists, I am looking for a Tron M-network joystick with the games and box, in a good and original shape! Well, kind of a holy grail I am sure but if anyone of you few who own it are interested in selling it, send me a signal!
  4. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  5. Hi everyone, I compiled the Dingux-7800 v1.1.0 code in my Raspberry PI and in my PC. Everything worked in the compilation and the emulator is running. But i can not configure the USB joystick or keyboard to play. During the game, only the D key on keyboard is working. Does anyone have any idea how i can fix this? thanks
  6. By popular demand (well, at least one person asked for it ), here's the schematic of an adapter allowing you to use Atari ST (or compatible) joysticks/joypads on the Jaguar: https://www.jagware.org/index.php?/topic/1208-atari-st-joystickjoypad-to-jaguar-adapter/ It was designed for playing CJ's Atari ST games ports, but works with other games too.
  7. Got something unique for everyone here who might want to try a really different analog control method which is effective on a good number of 5200 games. This mod brings a new purpose to your Atari 5200-compatible Wico Command Control Splitter cable along with your 2600 analog paddles. This project goes a step beyond just modding a 5200 controller to have a paddle added in place of the joystick which many have accomplished over the past number of years. It allows for two paddles to be utilized simultaneously on certain games that might use two fire buttons (ie. Moon Patrol, Tempest, Dreadnaught Factor) or on games that have only one fire button, but two axes of motion in action (ie. River Raid). I'm figuring this way of control is new territory for all Atari fans, which could give just about anyone here a new desire to retry some of the old favorite games they may not have plugged in for quite a while. 5200 games are really quite unique when compared to the games of the other 80's game systems because of the analog aspects of its controllers. This mod takes advantage of that, and gives you a totally unique and fun avenue to breathe new life into some of the classics. Enjoy
  8. There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.
  9. Today I've got some information to share on how you can get your Playstation controller working on your Colecovision with adapters. This required some experimenting with using a current-day USB hub with power supply. Check out my results here: Here are the adapters you'll need: 1) 9 pin Sega Genesis extension cords (2) 2) Edladdin Seagull 78 controller adapter (converts Genesis controllers to be fully-compatible with the Atari 7800) 3) Tototek Joypad Converter version MD (converts Playstation controllers to be compatible with the Sega Genesis console) 4) PS1 Multitap 5) Speedlink Redeemer Beyond Total Control Playstation 2 mouse/keyboard adapter 6) powered USB hub with power supply The method: 1) Plug in a Colecovision controller into port 2 of your Colecovision (consider connecting a 9 pin extension cable to it in case you want to sit a little ways away from the console.) 2) Plug a 9 pin extension cable into port 1 of your Colecovision, but don't plug any adapter into it yet. (wait) 3) Connect all the above adapters/PS1 Multitap together but leave the Seagull78 adapter unconnected to the 9 pin extension cable that's plugged into port one of the console. 4) Plug your Playstation controller into port A of the multitap 5) Plug the Speedlink Redeemer into port B of the multitap 6) Connect a powered USB hub (with power supply plugged into the wall) to the lower USB connector of the Speedlink. 7) Turn on your Colecovision and use the keypad of the port 2 Colecovision controller to make your game selection and start up the game. 8 ) Now plug in the adapters to the extension cable that's plugged into port 1 of your Colecovision and play your game with the connected Playstation controller. This method works for many, but not all Colecovision games. The ones that are incompatible with this method are the ones which don't allow a keypad controller that's plugged into port 2 of the console to start up the game, but only a keypad that's plugged into port 1 of the console. If you want to know how to get around that with a 9 pin splitter cable method, take a look at the video presentation. The nice thing about using Playstation controllers is that both buttons- not just one button- will work in the games that have the 2 button access. Another really nice aspect is that you can use a flightstick to play games like Zaxxon and River Raid. Also, it's nice to be able to use an arcade stick to play games like Q-bert or Ladybug.
  10. If you were making an Atari 2600 Arcade what joysticks would you use? What style of arcade quality sticks would you use to be the most playable for the games and the most authentic to early Atari / US based arcade games? I was thinking the IL Eurostick or the Happ Competition pro do any of you have any other suggestions?
  11. I couldn't find a thread specifically about this, please pardon me if there is one. Pictured is a MiniVex II, a controller I've been producing for the Vectrex. Been considering a compact twin stick unit, like this one, that's compatible with both Atari 2600 / VCS and the 7800. Thus far I know of Raiders of the Lost Ark and Stargate for the 2600, and Robotron for the 7800, but that's all...can someone list other original release and homebrew titles for both of these systems that use dual sticks? Much appreciated. Larry
  12. woolfman

    SwitchStix!

    My newest addition to the Lynx Collection - Switchstix! I finally found one, after a long search via Ebay. Thought it might improve my helicopter skills in "Desert Strike" Anybody ever used it? I am curious how the experience is, I haven´t used it so far...was too hesistant to open the package...
  13. http://youtu.be/_cRIFhsMSTU Just did this mod the other night. It was simple but great. It almost feels like I'm cheating with this thing. I played the ASTROIDS! emulator and centipede with it. It's crazy I can do this rocking thing where If I time it right I can tick my movements around with real precision. You can't go to fast or the atari doesn't seem to get it. But if I click click away at the right speed it almost feels like I can move fame for frame on centipede and my asteroids game has gotten way better too! I didn't get the low profile switches like the dude in the video just cuz I cannibalized some switches from something I was tossing out. I will get low profile next time cuz I had to modify the bottom of my joystick skeleton and my button a lot more than the dude in the video did, and it was a pain in the ass. The results were still awesome.
  14. So, I've been watching review videos and reading about quite a few different joysticks that were/are availible for the 2600. Different people have different opinions on what they like and why they like them. I'm sure threads like this have been done over and over, but some people may have gotten different controllers or changed their mind since the last time a similar thread was started. What I'd like to gain out of this is a little bit of insight into "WHY" people like one joystick/controller over another, so that I, or others, can possibly put that information to use while searching for our own "favorite" controller. I know nostalgia plays a large role in some people's decision and that's fine, but for this thread, I'd rather we all stick to the actual features and design of the joystick. In other words, the things that make it work well. I'll start with the controllers I have in my possession right now. The Atari CX-40. In standard form (no upgraded parts), It seems to have a little more play in the joystick than I'd like. Also, it really doesn't have a definitive stop position. I'm sure I push it much harder than I need to, because there's no feedback telling me the switch has been activated. These things have held up to 30 or more years of abuse and most of them still work. Anytime your hand wears off the factory paint and the joystick is still working, that's a win in my book. The Atari Flashback Joystick. This one had me on the fence for a while. I liked the feel of it more than I liked the CX-40, because there was just a bit of feedback letting me know I had activated the switch. Also it took less force to move, but at the same time, it had more play in it. I used this joystick for a while though. The build quality isn't great, but I feel like these would last if you don't get carried away and break the stick off. Epyx 500XJ. This one had good reviews from a lot of people, but I'm not sure I will ever be one of them. It does have nice clicky switches and almost no play in the stick. The issue I have with it, is the placement of the fire button and the size of the controller. The fire button feels awkward. This may be due to the placement, I'm more used to using my thumb, or it could be that I have a hard time holding it well due to it's size/shape. I can't knock it's build at all. The set I have are in great condition despite their age and how many hands they passed through before I ended up with them. The Wico, Command Control (Bat). This is another one with a lot of people standing behind it. It's well built and has the added feature of using the standard fire button on the base, or switching to the one on the end of the joystick. I really wanted this one to be my favorite, but after using it, I just wasn't sure about it. I felt like it was too large overall and the throw of the stick was more than I wanted. It just ended up feeling a little clumsy and awkward. If you like actual arcade controls, this one has that feel. I just don't think it has the precision I want when playing. Modified NES gamepad (For 2600 or 7800 with both fire buttons working). This was meant to be the go to controller for me, since it has a nice precise directional pad and very responsive fire buttons. In the end, it turned out that it wasn't as comfortable as I remember. I hadn't held one in over 20 years, so my memory of it being comfortable were either wrong or my hands are just too "OLD" to use it. I even went so far as to add a tiny ball top joystick to the D-pad to see if it would be easier on my thumb, but it didn't help. Modified SMS gamepad (again, 2600 or 7800). Another try at making a gamepad that I remembered as being comfortable to use. The D-pad is really sloppy on the Sega Master System controller. There's no precision at all with it. The basic shape is the same as the NES, so it just didn't agree with my hands. 7800 Prolines. I wasn't a fan of them at first, but they started to grow on me. I shortened the sticks on them, which lessened the throw. This was a big improvement. The stick and the buttons have a nice tactile click to them, so you don't just keep forcing it like on the factory CX-40s. I haven't used these for extended periods of time, so I'm not sure if they would cause my hands to cramp up, but I'm guessing they would, just because of the odd shape and the fact that my hands aren't happy with NES or SMS controllers anymore. There's not a lot to say about the paddle controllers really. I guess if I were to make one point about them, it would be that the "Gemini" paddles are stiffer feeling than the Atari ones. That means for me, the Gemini ones are more precise, but there are many factors to this. My Atari paddles may be more worn or the pots may be different in the Geminis. My advice on the paddles is, don't pay any attention to my experience with the ones I have, since it may not apply to all the paddles out there. The driving controllers and keypads I have, haven't seen much use, so I don't even have an opinion on them. Now, Here is what I consider to be my favorite Joystick/controller, right now... It's the CX-40, but not in it's factory state. I'm talking about the ones I've upgraded with the Best Electronics Gold PCBs, new fire buttons, springs,boot rings, boots, and new handles. I don't want to sound like an advertisement for Best Electronics, but it's hard not to, if you've tried out their Gold PCBs. However, i didn't buy the other parts from them, since I found a much better price for upgrade kits (everything but the PCB) on eBay. I actually had a small issue with one of the Gold PCBs, but it was easily corrected with a couple of emails to Brad (Best Electronics), It's not even important enough to go into detail about, since it was probably a one in a million issue.. What makes the new PCBs so nice, are the new domes. The old ones didn't click and were kind of mushy feeling to me. Of course they were old, but I don't think the original dome contacts were much better new.The PCB feels more substantial and there's a nice thick plastic layer that keeps the domes from "walking", then a thinner protective layer on top that adheres to everything, making a nice enclosed set of switches. As far as the gold coating goes, I know it's important, but it has nothing to do with how the controls respond. Once I had the joysticks reassembled with the new parts, there is almost zero play in the stick. There's a nice click in each direction and when you press the fire button. It's extremely easy to tell that you've activated the switches. I'm sure these are better than they ever were, even when brand new. I have around $40 total in the two joysticks, not counting the initial cost, which was basically zero, since they came with my 2600. If you have an old set, I feel it's worth $40 to rebuild them, but I don't know if I'd feel as good if I spent much more than that. Keep in mind, I'm on a fixed income, so $40 to me is equal to $100 for most people. Best Electronics sells NEW CX-40s with upgraded PCBs, but I couldn't justify spending that much when I already had a pair of them here that I could rebuild for less money. Now, that's my opinions on joysticks and controllers. I want to hear from other members here. I'm always willing to try a different joystick if it's something I can hunt down for a reasonable price.
  15. I just found some pretty cool stuff in my parents basement. It's the last of my collection that I didn't have any idea that existed. I don't know what to say about it. The last time I used any of it was many many years ago. I'm taking offers. There can't be worth that much. So if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. I have the following: NES fourscore Playstation Dual Shock 2600 driving controller 2600 paddle controller x2 RF switch Suncom Tac-3 Goldstar 3D0 controller Sold R-Type for the Sega Master system Gone. Like I said earlier I haven't used these in many years. The last time I used these, they worked fine. I don't have a way of testing any of them. So I'm selling them as they are. Edit-I'm also up if someone has a copy of Nights for the Saturn if anyone has one available.
  16. Has anyone bought bought a Competition Pro Retro joystick from ICOMP ? The joystick seems advertised as msx compatible http://wiki.icomp.de/wiki/Competition_Pro_Retro but it lacks the second button (button B). It has two couples of buttons (one upper and one lower on the basis) and a switch (4 buttons + 1 switch total). Sadly, all buttons insist on the same A line and the switch can only activate or deactivate the upper couple of buttons. Is there someone who modified it to support the msx second button?
  17. Looking to buy my favorite CV controller of all time: the SpectraVision Quickshot III. Please contact if you have a working one available.
  18. The WICO Ergostick was my joystick of choice during the ST days. In those days the mouse was getting more use then the joystick but it did relieve the wrist pain. I can use the left or right hand for the mouse but never became ambidextrous with any joystick. The ergonomic design of the rubberized housing allowed for a solid grip without a lot of pressure and cleaned up nicely in the dish washer. I feel I should mention that you should remove any parts you don’t want to get wet. WICO used micro switches for this joystick and you do not want to get them wet. This stick gave me the most trouble before it got fixed. It’s the one I used to test the Pocket Joystick Tester. Seemed to work when it was apart and stopped after the screws were tightened. Ended up being a broken wire near the plug; #1 to be exact. After the plug was cut off, a plug and cord assembly from another stick was graphed onto the cord. Now, not only do I get rock solid switching but there is two more feet of cable.
  19. Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
  20. Various good stuff I'll be sad to part with, all items are loose and without retail packaging, suggested prices not including shipping, Nintendo Bioforce Ape prototype reproduction cartridge $40 Atari Telemach 200 joystick - import with IL arcade components, switch for Amiga compatibility $85 Vectrex Control panel $80 Minestorm overlay $30 Star Castle overlay $35 Original Lightpen with all three lightpen cartridges $160 Debuzz kit and Cap kit $40 .. I also have not pictured a never assembled Rolo's Vectrex controller .. I have the lightpen game manuals but I haven't decided to include them yet Spikes Circus and Vectrex Logo PCB reissues maybe for sale. Debris Revisited maybe for sale.
  21. This is a 6 button 8 directional gamepad for the TI-99/4a natively. (No Adaptors needed) It's meant to be a D.I.Y. project. Total cost to me was Aprox. $19.00 US for 2 gamepads and 20 diodes. Controller Source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAM862S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Diode source - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T6Q3RE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I don't know who created the original schematic, I find it all over the web. But the original in the upper left of my picture below is of a 2 port atari adaptor for the TI-99/4a created by someone else. Same goes for the pin out diagram for the TI side including the 2 db9 pictures. Add to that other materials used (solder, wiring, glue) for pennies PLUS time and you have yourself 2 TI-99/4a Gamepads, one for each console. If I were asked to build one for someone, I'd ask for $20 $40 per joypad completely modded as shown. I had to up the price because it takes me a couple of hours to complete a mod on one Joypad including setup and breakdown times. I highly encourage you all to do this MOD yourself but if you really want me to do it for you, I have to ask for more money due to time. Looking at the attached picture will show you how I did this with the materials I had. I'll give some notes here: 1. Plan ahead with your own drawings that you understand. Your wire colors may differ depending on the controller you go with. Test them all and make your own chart for pin#, colour, board location.You'll want a controller that has all 9 wires to be certain. Sega Genesis controllers are like that as far as I know. 2. Test every wire and connection from the cable end to the connection ends as you go along. Check all solder points and pad connectivity as you go. One at a time. 3. It's easiest to do the Joy1 and Joy 2 connections first since they do not have diodes associated with them. 4. Be sure to isolate all traces. I used a dremel to obliterate the logic chip in to dust and cut all the lines. I isolated each solder point the gamepad already had and made sure joy1 and joy2 check lines were isolated from each other. review the photo and follow the traces. It should all make perfect sense. 5. I used Hot Glue to hold things in place and I applied it as I went along ensuring I isolated all possible shorts (using hot glue as an insulator). 6. I also drilled holes next to all the already connected wires on the board to allow me an easy path for my connections. You can see the unused holes in the picture for lines 1->7 and 6->5. 7. I was fortunate that the gamepad board had exposed round pads of bare solder. I suppose those were for Q/A testing. I drilled holes next to the ones I needed for new connections. I had to scratch the enamel off the common trace for J1 Signal sitting in the middle of the 4 directionals due to lack of circle solder pad. You can see the circle pads I soldered to, there are a few unused. Look at the ones near the middle buttons that went unused in the picture below.... 8. Be careful not to short any bare wires, be aware not to close holes that were there already (for encasement pins) and of course be aware of your drilled holes when applying hot glue if you choose to mimic my method. 9. I borrowed a program from another Topic thread to test. There was a typo in the original, find it and fix it. - Source = http://atariage.com/forums/topic/166557-proplay-new-4-button-gamepad-for-ti/?p=2058171 Already fixed and slightly customized code. Note: I think it's inefficient for game controller code but works for testing. My Test Results. 10. Use it as intended. - You can certainly use this gamepad as a single player Joy1 for any existing games you have. OR play two player games on one gamepad.(WHuh?Why? I know) However; the joy 2 buttons are just that, for Joy 2. So if you press them in conjunctions with Joy1 buttons in a game such as PARSEC (pressing up on both Joy1 and 2 at the same time) it will allegedly cause glitches or something undesirable (no damage just in game controller glitch). Don't blame the joypad. If you connect two TI joysticks and did the same thing, you'll probably get the same glitches. It doesn't make sense to use the controller in this way for existing games that aren't coded for this. 11. Further modifications were necessary. The bottom half of the controller housing has cylinders molded in to fit flush against the PCB. I needed to give 'em a little shave with the dremel to fit the wiring and hot glue. 12. Don't hold me responsible if you destroy the planet by attempting or using this modification. Or even if you break your console or something less destructive than destroying the entire planet. I knew the risks and now you do too, If you follow these instructions, any part of them, in real life you do so at your own peril. Just because it worked for me....doesn't mean it'll work for you in the sense that it could have been my fault. Last but not least. You will need games specifically coded to work with the full functionality of this controller. The game pad directionals and the X button are the Joystick 1 directionals and fire button. Y/B/A/C/Z buttons are for Joystick2 as follows in same order Up/Down/Left/Right/Fire. I attempted to make my connections standard. So anyone who wants to make their own 6 button gamepad for the TI to code for, please take in to account the button assignments. Together we can establish a new standard in TI gaming and ensure our programs work across the board with any controllers folks my make on their own utilizing this Topic Thread,. THE START BUTTON IS UNUSED AND DOES NOTHING. Of course, I rate this project as easy for an ametuer. But do ask and learn, I used a heat sink for every solder point to protect the diodes. I don't know it that's unnecessary, but I did it anyway. Thanks to everyone here for encouragement and help. Now it's time to start making games that can take advantage of this design and layout. Get creative. Street Fighter? Tanks game where you can move one way and rotate the turret another? Puzzle games where you have to control 2 characters to solve the puzzle ? (Castle of Dr. Creep anyone? - (C64 game) or The Goonies?) RPGs with spell, attack, defend, jump, dodge buttons? What would you like to play on your TI with a 6 button gamepad? Make it, Code it, Play it. Share it. Do it.
  22. Anyone have a Quickshot III for Colecovision?
  23. I have just made an interface for the Atari trackball to the TI-99/4a. The Atari trackball works like a joystick that needs a +5 to power the sensors. it's essentially an upside down ball mouse. So what I did was create a standard Atari to Ti-99 joystick interface cable then on PIN 7 I attached a +5 from a battery for the Atari trackball sensors. believe it or not it works. Except, and this is the odd part I can't figure out, when the trackball is attached the keyboard display automatically goes into lower case. clicking the alpha lock does nothing and pressing shift will make the upper case letters appear but it will default back to lower case. also, you still have to turn off the alpha lock to enable 'up' on the trackball. this effect happens rather the +5 is attached or not. doesn't seem to effect the TI-99 adversely except throwing it into lower case. ideas?
  24. I'm looking for a Competition Pro for my 7800 and/or C64 (I believe they have the same pinout, right?). How much are these going for, and does anyone have one to sell? Also, I have a 5200 Competition Pro, so if you want to exchange, I'm sure we can work out a deal that way. Mine is the black with red buttons one.
  25. I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 2600 and 5200 like Asteroids (2600), Gravitar (2600), Meteorites(5200), and Star Trek (2600 & 5200) to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on The Earth Dies Screaming and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Gravitar is especially awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 2600. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The latter mode is similar to what is offered by the Atari Trakball for the 2600 and Atari 8 bit computers when it's in joystick mode. It delivers pulses when making smaller movements to slow things down a bit. In other words, it gives a pseudo-analog movement of your character/ship. To get it to work on the 2600, you'll need the following adapters between the 2600 and the flightstick: 1) Best Electronics Sega Genesis controllers to Atari Systems Adapter cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 2) A Tototek Joypad Converter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: 1) Buy a hard to find adapter made by Innovation that converts Playstation controllers to 15 pin PC gameports called the Smartjoy Emulator Adapter. (Source: Ebay (as of right now these are quite expensive)) 2) Obtain an inexpensive 15 pin PC gameport to 9 pin Atari/Amiga/Amstrad controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74) Methods for getting the Madcatz Flightstick connected to your 5200 are found here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/284238-new-discovery-for-going-beyond-digital-control-on-your-5200-games/?do=findComment&comment=4140266 If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go: https://youtu.be/igynk3Tfy6E
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