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Showing results for tags 'joystick'.
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By popular demand (well, at least one person asked for it ), here's the schematic of an adapter allowing you to use Atari ST (or compatible) joysticks/joypads on the Jaguar: https://www.jagware.org/index.php?/topic/1208-atari-st-joystickjoypad-to-jaguar-adapter/ It was designed for playing CJ's Atari ST games ports, but works with other games too.
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Hi Guys - my father has rheumatoid arthritis and loves to play video games. However his hands are very disfigured and it does not allow him to hold a older-style console joystick comfortably. Especially the one for the Atari 7800, that one even hurts my hands. So I searched around and could not really find any alternative NES-style / SMS-style control pads easily (except for these NES / SNES controller DB9 adapters available in Europe for about $45 each). Some I found don't work with 2 button on the 7800. He loves the the Atari 7800 old school games (he played these with me as a kid) - I searched all over, and found a way to convert one - and I was successful in taking an OEM NES controller and making it work with the Atari 7800 (2 button games) and 2600 (1 button games). It actually makes the 7800 2 button games more enjoyable such as Choplifter. Playing Megamania is more fun too. So now I am building these to order and have made a few available for purchase on eBay if you are interested. Not looking to get rich quick off of this, I just have some parts inventory from my retro-collection and want to start making some room on my shelves. You can see them here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263557597264 Thanks for looking! -
Hello everyone, If you are looking for an arcade quality joystick for your Atari 2600 or 7800, this is it. Incredibly high quality, custom made for me mid 2017. Ive used it a handful of times and have already upgraded within their lineup, however, this stick is in near perfect condition. The control you will have over your games will be unprecedented. Their build times are currently 4-6 weeks (from what i understand), but you can have this right now! Buyer to pay actual shipping costs. Email with any questions. Also selling an awesome Sears Tele-Games heavy sixer bundle. Check it out and we can work out a deal if you're interested in both! Thanks for looking! Per their website: Take classic Atari 2600, Atari 7800, and 8-bit computer games to a whole new level with the Super 78 - an arcade controller built around an authentic Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT ball-top joystick with an octagonal restrictor plate and two Suzo-Happ pushbuttons. Super 78 transforms gameplay on great Atari 7800 games like Asteroids, Ballblazer, Centipede, Choplifter, Commando, Dig Dug, Donkey Kong, Food Fight, Galaga, Joust, and more. The octagonal restrictor plate is the perfect compromise between a 4-way and 8-way joystick, providing distinct landing points for your stick in all eight directions. The Suzo-Happ arcade pushbuttons deliver true left/right two-button control just like the original Atari 7800 "Pro Line" controllers, but with none of the pain Super 78 brings new playability and excitement to classic Atari 2600 and 8-Bit computer games. The Super 78 is 100% compatible with the classic Atari CX-40 joystick familiar to owners of the Atari 2600, Atari Flashback, and many of the 8-bit era computers. When used with one of these systems, both buttons perform just like the single red fire button on the Atari 2600 joystick. But because our old-school concave arcade fire buttons are driven by super sensitive micro-switches, you can cancel your membership in the Numb Thumb Club! Easy to Play. Super 78s are built in an 8" x 14" sloped aluminum housing that is stable on the table or happy in your lap, with the joystick and classic arcade fire buttons positioned for a natural wrist position. Under the hood, all harness connections are soldered and heatshrink wrapped. The result is a controller to last a lifetime. The molded DB-9 cord length is approximately 5'6" (1.6m).
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Who have found a replacement knob for the Vectrex Controller? One that fits the shaft as a screw on replacement. One that will still allow the controller to be stored. One that matches well. Chrome. Black. Light Gray. In metal or plastic. Preferably, one that does not destroy or degrade another old controller. But hey, Vectrex before Atari! or Tandy. One that is reasonably priced. Reasonably being somewhat mutable based on what it is. newly machined knob with chrome / polishing will be more expensive than a 3D printed knob.
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Hi all, I've been browsing the Atariage forums for a long time now and with help from a lot of great posts I've modded and resurrected quite a few Atari systems. Thank you, to all of the knowledgeable and friendly people who post here. I finally came up against some issues that I haven't been able to sort out by searching the forums. I'll start out by telling everybody about the system I have. It is a 4 port 5200, (the non VCS adapter compatible one). I bought it untested from ebay with 3 games and 4 controllers, but no power supply or switchbox. I bought an original 4 port power supply and did the power mod to eliminate the need for the all in one switchbox, (thank you Mitch and CPUWIZ). I am using the original soldered on RF cable to connect the 5200 to my TV, (I'll likely do the video mod after I sort out the issues I'm having). I've cleaned up 2 of the controllers and the buttons are working good. The joysticks were too, but that's changed. Anyhow after I completed the power mod and hooked the 5200 to my TV it looked and sounded great, no problems with any of the games I tried. However some of the controller inputs weren't reading, but the system seemed to be working great otherwise. After a while thought a new problem started. The system would not turn off with the power button and I started getting graphical errors with lockups. The power is on as soon as I plug it in, without even pressing the power button. After reading a few posts here it seemed that I my power problem and graphics troubles were likely due to a bad 4013 flip flop. I bought a pack of 25 and have tried about half of them - no change, the problems remain. As a matter of fact even without a 4013 socketed the 5200 powers on as soon as I plug it in and will on turn off. I also still get graphical corruption and lockups after a short time too. Aside from changing out the 4013 I've also tested the power switch for continuity. It has continuity when the button is pushed and none when it isn't, so the button isn't the problem. This has me really stumped, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. On to problem 2 - the controller input issue. As mentioned I've cleaned and got working 2 of the controllers. So after some searching of the posts it seemed likely that my problem was due to faulty CD4052 ICs. I bought a pack of 25 and replaced the 5 that are on the board. Success! All of the buttons now work as they should. However I am having trouble with the joysticks. The joysticks worked fine initially, before I changed the CD4052s, but started to give me trouble before I did the swap and it didn't go away with the swap. As soon as I start any game it acts like the joystick is being pushed all the way down and to the right. This happens even if the joystick is centered and does not change even if I move the stick all the way up and to the left, or any other direction for that matter. It's the same with both controllers and the same with both ports 1 and 2, I have not tried ports 3 or 4. More reading on the forums is leading me to suspect I've got a fault Pokey chip. The Pokey looks slightly discolored around the edges. I don't have another to swap out, yet, but that is what I plan on trying next. I've also cleaned the pins in all 4 or the ports. Again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do own a multi-meter and a decent soldering iron, (which I am pretty good at using). I also got really lucky with the board revision in my 5200, every IC on the board is socketed, so no de-soldering required to swap out chips. This is the first 5200 I've owned and I've got a lot of great games that I want to start playing. I know some of you guys have seen it all with these systems, so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to sort it out with your help. Thanks in advance.
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I'm new here so please be gentle I did a search for my topic but nothing really showed up. Does anyone have a solution to the small 'white-ish' plastic ring breaking on the plastic 'stick' core of the CX40 - and other 3rd party joysticks (like Cirka). Right now what I've done has been to superglue the broken area with a generous amount, and then immerse it in baking soda which then hardens it up nicely. I did see a plan online to 3D print a solid insert (HERE) - but I can't get anyone close to me to produce it (probably not worthwhile). Thank you for your help - and again - I'm sorry if this has already been addressed.
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Hi all, This is my first post here, but been lurking and taking in all the useful advice re atari! I'm looking for one of the black plastic controller ports thats soldered on to the pcb of an atari flashback 3-7. Can anyone help me please? I currently have one good and one melted one, that I accidently destroyed whilst trying to remove for a raspberry pi project. Any help greatly appreciated!
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Anyone use these RETRO2600 brand replacement joysticks? I need a couple sticks for my system, and saw these on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/p/Joystick-Controller-Pad-for-Atari-2600-System-Joy-Stick/1229344204
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I'm trying to figure out which is best for my 2nd Atari 2600 CX-40 joystick (less cutting down white joystick handle), Tactile Push Button Tact Switch Momentary (height) 5mm, 4.3mm, or 3.8mm? Which does everyone else use? I've enclosed an image of the one(s) I'm looking at. Thank you.
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Famously bad joystick for sale or trade. I'm not sure the value so I'm looking for offers. There are a few for sale on non-U.S. ebay in $60-$100 range, with high shipping costs. I'm not actually sure of the function of this joystick either and could use some direction on that. I can only test that it is partially functional on 2600.
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Here are most of my controllers for the 2600/7800, I have a couple joysticks and a joypad with the TV unit downstairs. The majority are original Atari ones and I didn't realize that I had 3 sets of paddles. I ended up refurbishing a 3-4 CX-40 with parts from Best Electronics. New rubber handle, new button/spring and for a couple of them I changed the contacts. Much cheaper than to get brand-new joysticks and except the usual markings on the rubber handle and scratched buttons, nothing wrong it. I have 3 CX-24 and 2 CX-78 joysticks for the 7800. I play pretty much all the time with the joypad, it's much easier to play with. I didn't realize I had four after-market joysticks. I think I will modify one of the yellow ones to have two joystick connections for Bump'n'Jump one of these days. There are a few controllers that I eventually would like to get. The Track&Field controller is high on my list, and perhaps I will treat myself to one in the next few months. I've also been keeping an eye out for the Epyx XJ500, I've always wanted one even back in the day when I had a C64 and that seemed to be the joystick to have. There's also the smaller Amiga joystick that came out in the mid 80s which I'd buy if I saw a good deal. As with everything else I find that the prices online have pretty much doubled in the last year.
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I have an interesting joystick from Spain: Telemach 200. I'm looking to trade for other rare joysticks. The joystick has arcade components, Industria Lorenzo stick. It has a 9 pin connector. I use it on 2600. There is a switch on the back for other systems, (Amiga?). There are 4 suction cups on the bottom. I'm most interested in homebrew joysticks. But also various rare or quality that I don't already have. I mainly play 2600. Also Vectrex. I can use db15 gameport analog joysticks on Atari with an adapter that I have, which I like and which is another trade option. Possibly arcade or industrial joystick components. Old Pong console modded to work as VCS Paddle controllers!!!! ... Atari Game Brain, H.E.R.O., Montezuma's Revenge... VecMulti for Vectrex..
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Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
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I am assuming the 2600-dapter II makes joysticks appear as normal game controllers to Windows. Will the dapter II allow my paddles to work like paddles in Atari800WinPlus? Stella? http://www.2600-daptor.com Thanks I suppose a better question is: does Atari800winplus support real paddles? I find that Stella does, but can't find any info about Atari800winplus.
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When I run STEEM with a disk game I can use my controller no problem, but when I make a folder and run games from the hard drive the joystick refuses to work. Anyway I can solve this issue?
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Looking to buy my favorite CV controller of all time: the SpectraVision Quickshot III. Please contact if you have a working one available.
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Anyone have a Quickshot III for Colecovision?
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I'm looking for ideas on a new design for the Atari Pro CX-1000. You can see my current designs HERE As you can see we have Atari boxing, Q-bert, Pac-man, Pitfall! and Donkey Kong. I'm currently working up a design for Berzerk. So tell me, what game would you like to see made into the next Atari Pro joystick?
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I just found some pretty cool stuff in my parents basement. It's the last of my collection that I didn't have any idea that existed. I don't know what to say about it. The last time I used any of it was many many years ago. I'm taking offers. There can't be worth that much. So if you're interested shoot me a PM and we can work something out. I have the following: NES fourscore Playstation Dual Shock 2600 driving controller 2600 paddle controller x2 RF switch Suncom Tac-3 Goldstar 3D0 controller Sold R-Type for the Sega Master system Gone. Like I said earlier I haven't used these in many years. The last time I used these, they worked fine. I don't have a way of testing any of them. So I'm selling them as they are. Edit-I'm also up if someone has a copy of Nights for the Saturn if anyone has one available.
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I have a Electra Concepts Masterplay Interface 5200 in excellent condition, adult games Custer's Revenge and Eat'em & Best'em all FOR SALE... also 2 Wico Command controllers (joystick and keypad) -
OK, Here's my first try at adding images to a post, so hopefully it works. The first photo shows the "Prototype" coupler I built for playing Robotron using 2 2600 joysticks. It's made of layered plywood, 25x5x2 inches with 12 inches between the joysticks and weighs around 2 pounds. The joysticks are removable. They have 2x2 inch velcro squares under each of them and the joysticks fit securely in the holes even without the velcro. It has 2 holes in the front edge to allow the cords to come through along with a nylon carrying handle in the front and 4 non-slip feet on the bottom. I added a chrome strip between the two joysticks, just to break up the all black look and to better fit with the 7800 console. My score on Robotron tripled the first time I used this thing! The next photo shows a couple of custom controls I did for the 7800. The gamepad is a modded NES controller, with a small ball-top joystick added to the directional pad, and the start and select buttons removed. I also did a quick and dirty paint job, along with a new overlay and Atari logo, just as a test mostly. My masking tape failed around the logo, so the edges there look really bad. It was the first one I made before I started selling them, so I still like it. The 7800 proline in the photo has a shortened throw, by cutting down the joystick and the original knob and adding a rubber buffer to keep the joystick from being forced too far in any direction. I'll add more photos as I finish the other projects I have in the works. -
Has anyone bought bought a Competition Pro Retro joystick from ICOMP ? The joystick seems advertised as msx compatible http://wiki.icomp.de/wiki/Competition_Pro_Retro but it lacks the second button (button B). It has two couples of buttons (one upper and one lower on the basis) and a switch (4 buttons + 1 switch total). Sadly, all buttons insist on the same A line and the switch can only activate or deactivate the upper couple of buttons. Is there someone who modified it to support the msx second button?
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Hello everybody:) I just downloaded to latest version of Stella onto my laptop and got the ROMS for it. I was wondering if anybody had any joystick advice for me. The USB sticks that look like Atari knockoffs on Amazon have pitiful ratings. I'm surprised that their isn't more of a selection for vintage gaming enthusiast. I wanted to get two joysticks so my Wife and I could play together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Scott
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I'm just wondering if anyone around here might still have a new old stock Wico Command Control bat top style joystick for Atari systems that they might be interested in selling? I do have a couple other purchases I have to make first so I wouldn't be in a position to buy one until April, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask around in advance and see if anyone had one they'd be interested in selling and if so what they'd like to get for it price wise. Just shoot me a PM if you happen to have one that you'd like to sell. -
I am ready to take sales for the 7800 Prosystem Joystick. I have parts on hand to assemble 11. Orders after the initial 11 will be pre-orders for the next batch and will take 3-4 weeks to be ready. Hopefully sooner. A lot of the people that expressed interested did so before I had the final design and price so I am not sticking to that list. Plus another competitor showed up. I am asking that you send me a PM to order. Hopefully this works out ok and doesn't upset anybody. I shouldn't have a problem filling all orders in a reasonable amount of time. I also answer emails and don't plan to disappear. The joystick is wired like the 7800 Proline joystick. So it has the same system compatibility. Atari 2600, XE, etc. Features: Aluminum Case Leaf-switch buttons Modified Sanwa JLF 8-way joystick with circle restrictor, silent switches, heavy spring Aluminum ball top Polycarbonate laminated overlay 9 foot replaceable cord I have spent the weekend playing a variety of games with this joystick and I love it. To me this joystick is the right size, weight, and has the correct feel for these games. Pac Man will never be as good as playing it with the original midway joystick but this is pretty good. I didn't feel cheated while playing it. I was skeptical of the Sanwa verses a real leaf switch joystick, but with the mods to it this joystick is fantastic. Overlay: The overlay turned out really good. I ended up making the silver band darker than the original 7800. CMYK printing just doesn't do silver very good. The first proof was lighter but wasn't sharp. Making it a little darker turned out a lot better. How to Order: Send me a PM and let me know which side you want the joystick on. Also give me your email and shipping address. Price is $200 plus shipping. Priority Mail $17.00. International shipping is fine just ask for a price. Feel free to ask questions. Thanks!
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