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Showing results for tags 'mod'.
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Before I jump to a downgrade to a 2600 Jr with short rainbow and an a/v mod (also being lured towards it by the wonderfully done Pac-Man 4k and due to a lack of a Yars' Revenge 8-bit port), my 2 5200 trak-balls (yes, I said it, two, trak-balls, model no. CX53) that I've had since 1983 (both purchased just a couple of months after taking delivery of my first 5200 unit on my 17th birthday (USA-Made 4-port, Serial No. 141101, now retired after getting an a/v/power-out modded 4-port unit just 2 months ago) in 1983 seem to have a serious issue going on with (yes, you guessed it!) the keypads and fire buttons not working at all, and I really wanted to use them with Tempest and of course the CX53 is also the ONLY one that will work with games like Missile Command, Super Breakout and Gorf, but alas these three games cannot be played with the 2600 trak-ball I picked up (the fire buttons are more responsive on it than the CX53) because it reads through my Redemption 5200 as a digital unit on these games (Missile Command, Super Breakout and Gorf all take advantage of the analog system the stock stick uses), but yet, that very same setup reads beautifully with games like Centipede, Millipede, and also Tempest. Does Best Electronics offer circuit-board and/or keypad/fire button upgrades for the CX53 trak-ball controllers like they have for the stock 5200 joystick controllers, as I have a gold-contact 5200 stick which is a thing of beauty, but I don't want to throw in the towel and sell a system platform that I have supported for 33 years and also spent thousands of dollars in games and accessories, including the 2600 and 7800-compatible Redemption 5200 units and almost all the great homebrews and finished prototypes over the years. I hope they do, because I don't wanna throw away such a great system just because of a mere snafu involving the CX53 Trak-Ball Controllers, somebody help! -
So I decided I'm going to sacrifice a cartridge for my fr99. Extended Basic and Parsec are safe. Who dies? (Or in this case who gets gutted?) Car Wars Carl, Tombstone City Rick, TI invaders Glen, Blasto Daryl or MunchMan Michonne?
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Good morning, everyone, I'm finally brushed up on my soldering and desoldering (practicing off an obsolete 1027 mainboard), and am gathering the components I'll need to incorporate the ClearPic 2002 mod in my new family of 1200XLs. However, I'm already stumped and am hoping for assistance. For the resistors (1, 47, 75, 130, and 1k ohms) it appears that wattage plays a role in choice, yet that seems to be the most elusive bit of information for me after searching the forum as well as Google. I'm seeing anything from 1/4w up to 10w choices, but nothing at what I thought is the wattage of the 1200XL mainboard: 5v. Am I just looking for the wrong thing entirely? Thank you, in advance! Tim
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Good evening, everyone! I'm so far behind the curve compared to everyone here that I will never be able to catch up-- but I'm enjoying things in the meantime. But as I try to figure out the limits of my repairing skills-- mostly involving soldering/desoldering and how my heart meds' side effects impact both (wow! my hands really shake THAT much?! lol)-- I'm curious about what methods you use when it comes to repairing/modding your system. For example, I am using a 1027 printer's mainboard as my starting point for desoldering, removing everything I can. But wow! There are two items that seem to be eluding my determination, including the capacitor I hope will replace the leaking cap in one of my 1200XLs. Obviously my desoldering iron w/ pump is hot enough for everything else that is small (resistors, diodes, yada yada), but that cap is soldered solid. Next, I'm going to try removing it using my 60w solder iron and desoldering wick which should arrive tomorrow-- and I'm hoping for a better outcome as far as that capacitor is concerned. Is there a "trick" to those capacitors and other components with a similar fat solder point? Do you use a wick for them? All suggestions and recommendations are more than welcome! Thank you, in advance! Timothy Kline -
Hi guys, I was browsing the forum and found this topic about French Atari 400's: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/62346-atari-400-way-to-use-a-video-monitor-with-it/page-2 I remembered that I have a 400 with a Scart (or in France Peritel) connector. Sadly in the topic the pictures aren't available anymore, so I cannot compare my 400 with the one Arnaud (atari-passion) showed in the thread. I tried to power it on. My television set detects the signal (scart and audio) but sadly no picture. Also on the RF cable there is no picture. I will try to fix this. Looking at the pinout if the scart connector uses only Composite video and audio, so it is not RGB. But in the meantine, has anyone seen this kind of mod anywhere?
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I just wanted to know if anyone has built an actual PCB replacement for the CX52 joysticks. Seems like that would be a better route to go than adding gold contacts to the various revisions of the Flex circuits. Sure, it would probably make it a wiring mess like the Colecovision standard controllers but I'd speculate it would still be doable and reliable... -
I picked up an AV mod on eBay, opened up an Intellivision II, but don't have enough clue to know where to wire what. Can anyone lend me some ideas, tell me where to mark-up the included motherboard image, and I will post it here for the next person to use? Thanks.
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Hi, I used to collect Atari computers and PCs of similar age and I've been getting rid of most of my old collection since I've fallen out of the hobby. I really like the way the SM124 monitor I have looks though and was wondering if there was any way to connect a vga or other sort of slightly more updated video connection to it. I've found adapters online but they all seem to be so that you can use a VGA monitor with an Atari ST, I'm searching for the opposite of that basically. Any information about adapters, mods, or why what I'm asking isn't feasible or practical would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Hello: I'm tired of passing the signal from my Atari 2600 through a VCR, setting the monitor to the correct channel, and then enduring the lousy image from the RF cable. I would like to buy an Atari 2600 Jr console with the S-Video and Composite video mod, like the one Electronic Sentimentalities sells. I sent him an email on December 20, 2015, and he hasn't answered yet. The email didn't bounce, so he got it. Would he be able to see my message here? Or would somebody else be able to provide the same service? I want to buy specifically the Atari 2600 Jr because it is the smallest fully compatible console. I presume I will be able to use the Harmony Cart with the modded console without problems. I will buy that after I buy the console. Thank you.
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Hey everyone. I am just starting to try my hand at modding one of my consoles on my own, and I am considering adding component to my SNES mini. I have seen a mod the runs from the RGB chip, thru resistors and caps, and then out thru 9 pin din (I think) out as RGB to a converter. My question is whether it is possible to take the video signal out through component using the same method. If this is crazy wrong please let me know. Thanks for your time either way. Mike
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Hi. I have a question related to compatabilty and modification of an Atari 5200. I know it is recommended that you purchase a 2 port system since the 4 port ones run power and rf through a proprietary prone-to-breaking switch box that is hard to replace. However, if I purchase a system I will be getting it s video modded. Does anyone know if the modification bypasses this switchbox (I know there is a power jack mod too), which would negate any issues and actually make the 4 port a superior option? Thanks
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Before anybody starts trolling about using CRTs over PC monitors, I just want to know if anyone on here has used a modded Atari with the Enko Composite to HDMI converter or something similar and had it work on a modern LCD/LED PC Monitor. I need to record some gameplay, so its important that I can use a PC Monitor. What I have currently is an ASUS VE247H. I know the converter works with my SNES and Sega Model 1 (but only with the 32X hooked up to it). I do not have a modded Atari though, and was wanting to know if I got mine modded, if it would work as well.
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I have long been an observer, but I am now finally joining to contribute, so hello world! My question revolves around something I read on another thread. Essentially, it was that even while turned off the design of the lynx's power regulator means that the lynx still drains the batteries unless you remove one. My question revolves around the fact I notice (at least in the case of the lynx 2 I own) that the unit does not power on without a cartridge inserted. Since as I understand it, the lynx is in a perpetual "standby mode", but does not respond without a cart, is that high enough in the circuitry that the regulator does not run without a cart inserted, or is it just necessary in closing the switching circuitry? If it still drains power without the cart inserted, does anyone know a workaround to this problem? I'm considering changing the power switch into a hard switch and disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries that way. Thank you in advance! Matt
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Hi Guys This is my first post here so please be gentle with me. I'm from the UK and I've recently bought a couple of Heavy Sixer's from the States. I have modded one of them with a composite video kit and it works great. However, I was wondering what else I would need to do to convert the system into a PAL unit? I've read about the TIA and how it differs so my questions are: a) Could I replace the system board only with a PAL light sixer, keeping the switch board and all other original components? Would this work? b) If I was to keep the system board and replace the TIA with a PAL unit, is there anything else I need to consider? The info on the internet I've found seems to be pretty vague. I read something about the crystal also needing replacing and maybe some other bits? Thanks in advance
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I have started doing some modding on my Game Gear about 2 months ago and its been pretty fun and exciting (successful LED backlight mod and battery replacement for the Powerback so far. WOOT!). I started looking into a 50hz/60hz mod for the GG VA1 board to play my PAL master system games on by following various posts switching the NTSC pin from the Sega 315-5535 to a 5V source. After going through the Service Manuals (http://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:service_manual_-_game_gear_va1.pdf) and other posts, I am having a very silly issue: Where is Pin 118 on the Sega 315-5535 IC? I see some possible spots on the other side of the chip, but I don't want to start chopping leads before knowing exactly which pin I'm sending a 5V signal to. I'm modifying a USA VA1 837-9024 Game Gear board. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I've tried some other communities to find this information and I've found the AtariAge community to be very helpful in the past. Take care guys !
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After converting the output of my Odyssey 2 to composite, I have been playing it much more lately. I also have "The Voice" accessory and im just getting annoyed with the fact that the sound comes from the speaker on the unit and not from the TV. I was toying with the idea of hooking up the red/white RCA output jacks to the back of the voice unit and tie them in with the already existing red/white output on the console itself. I have a fair amount of knowledge when it comes to electronics, but I was just wondering if anyone knows what would happen if you hook up 2 audio outputs into one audio input? Would they both play through the TV speakers together without issue? (ive attached a crude diagram for reference) Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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ElectronicSentimentalities http://electronicsentimentalities.com/InstallationServices.html Spectacular...If I had to choose one word to describe both my dealings with and the end results of the service that ElectronicSentimentalities offers, spectacular would be that word. I have had the pleasure of purchasing and currently own the Best 7800 Composite mod system, a 7800 system mod from Yurkie, and now one from ElectronicSentimetalities. Yurkie was dead on the money recommending their service after discontinuing the one he provided. The recommendation meant a lot to me, knowing how satisfied I was and how awesome Yurkie's work was on the 7800, for him to recommend another - I knew it had to be good. I was wrong. It is not good, but excellent. Joe was friendly, fast, and a pleasure to deal with; including shipping my console back way before the expected return date. Further, the price is extremely reasonable. You get S-Video, Composite, and audio out jacks. The composite picture is the clearest I have seen and the S-Video is even more stunning. Being that I own a "CPS 7800 Diagnostic Test Cartridge'', the console was tested, and the color calibration was shown to have been performed perfectly as well. The console was packaged very carefully when sent back including a second box with padding/insulation in addition to the one I utilized sending my system out. Externally, you could not tell (Outside of the new connectors) the system was even touched. In fact, it was wrapped nearly exact the way I shipped it. You're not a DIY console mod person or not very good at it; or just want the ease and convenience of having your 7800 system mod done beautifully and professionally with spectacular results, this would be the place your console needs to go. Highly recommended and highly impressed - Bravo, Joe/ElectronicSentimentalities.
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im having problems with getting a composite signal out of my intellivision i have this pal model so far i have tried both of the following methods with the rf module on and off with no luck i have seen another mod but this must be for a different motherboard and im at a loss of what to do now has any one got any more info on this subject
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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Where's the best place to get a Colecovision AV mod kit?
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Just before the New Year, I got my very first Sixer. So far, I've only owned 2 Juniors (older 84' Short Rainbow and newer 91' Long Rainbow), a Junior-like clone and a Vader-style clone, but never even saw a "Woody" with my own eyes before. This one came from a local auction site, at the price of $22 with P&P included. I knew it's going to need some work, because it was being sold as "TV can't detect it" (and it wasn't the original owner, but a re-seller who specialises in grabbing retro stuff from a german flea market - so typical in Poland, we just never had any market for consoles till 90's), but hey! it was the only way for me to get one below $60-100 in here. When it's arrived, it was dirty on the outside and literally full of filth inside. It didn't have any of the original 6 screws, but instead some random 3 to just barely hold it all in one piece. The reason for it not working quickly became apparent... some idiot has replaced the original cable with an antenna one, breaking off the plastic tab in the opening for the cable, to be able to push the bigger plug thru. And sice the antenna plug is bigger than the RCA-type socket on the switchboard, he's squashed it with pliers or something, to hold it in place. Of course it has broken loose, and since the cable was a total shit anyway, I've temporarily replaced it with one of mine to test the picture. But the TV still didn't detect anything... I touched the volage regulator and it was cold - sure sign of nothing going thru. Fortunately it didn't require any detective work, as I've quickly found a broken solder joint on the power adapter socket. Cleaned it up and secured with huge blobs of solder. In the meantime, the case took a bath. I've cleaned the black residue (oxidation) on the switches with CIF cleaning cream and a dense sponge, worked quite well. Everything was ready for the final test. Then came a nasty surprise. I plugged in the first cart around - Outlaw and... the second cowboy kept firing contantly. At first I panicked that it's a dead TIA and I will have to either desolder it from the younger Junior, or simply take it out of the socket on the older one, but I didn't want to sacrifice that one! Luckily, the Sixers differ a bit and it wasn't a TIA issue, but damaged hexbuffer chip (4050), as described in this topic . For starters, I bridged the pins 6 and 7 to see if that helps, and it worked like a charm. Since I'm just learning how to solder/desolder, I couldn't pass on the opportunity and decided to put in a socketed replacement. I've managed to find a perfect match (CD4050BCN) in my usual electronics store. Since I've already tampered with the motherboard, why not install a small inductor-bypass mod so that I don't run into trouble trying certain games. Now that the VCS was in perfect working order, it was time for S-vide mod. I did identical one on my older Junior and it was very happy with it, no need to disable the modulator, no cut traces, no soldering components to the motherboard like some crap AV mods. Just a wire-ribbon going from TIA socket to the mod board. Later secured it with hot-glue, before closing the metal box. I already had a bunch of RCA sockets attached to pieces of wire, from my attempts with the Junior, to quickly test if everything works ok.: Not to drill thru the metal, I've let the ribbon out using the opening meant for trimpot access, and closed the box. At the top of the picture, you can see the large blobs of solder that hold the power socket I mentioned earlier. All that was left was finding a nice spot for the mod board to sit at and secure it in place with hot-glue. The cable going outside is detachable (using a standard 2.54mm raster "gold-pin" connector), so that I can replace it with another one, or a bunch of standard sockets installed at the back of the console without touching the mod board itself. Right now, I'm using a cable that splits into 4 RCA jacks, to connect to my Commodore 1084S monitor. Having all the bits inside, it was the time to close the case, but the foam dust-protector discs were missing. I cut out my own from a piece of 2mm PVC craft foam. They were a bitt too large, so I needed to snip off the excess on the sides, so that they don't collide with the "support pillars" where the case screws go. Good that I chose to cut square openings in them, so that they won't turn sideways! I've put in new (sheet metal) screws and voila! The unit plays great and I've stress-tested it for hours now. Doesn't glitch, likes all carts, works perfectly with joys, paddles and driving controllers. Definately worth all the effort, considering the initial price. Last step will be repainting the decorative orange strip around the switches' panel, I'll post the results here once done. Comments and questions more than welcome.
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I knocked another project off the list today by finishing up my 7800 s-video mod. I also recapped it and added RCA AV jacks. I bought longhornengineer's video board on eBay and highly, highly recommend buying from them. The s-video quality is absolutely superb. It's crisp and colorful, and still glows with that original warmth. The 7800 went from being the absolute worst video quality of any console I own, to nearly the top of the list. So far I've only been able to test it plugged straight to my TV, and it will improve when I'm able to run it through my Extron DVS-204 to a T-SLG. The mono audio is also excellent, but the composite video is nowhere near as good as s-video. Both are a huge improvement over RF obviously. I mounted the AV jacks on the back of the console, which is something I hadn't seen done before. If you go this route, make sure to get the exact s-video jack that I used. There isn't enough space inside that area for standard s-video jacks.
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First the good news... I found some time to install my PS/2 Keyboard adapter in the TI today. I drilled a few holes... ...mounted the connector... I think it looks pretty nice... ... so I closed it all up and admired the view... And now the bad news... #1) It will not work when the both keyboards are plugged in, so I have to run without the original keyboard hooked up. #2) And the depressing one... not all the keys are functioning. At this point I'm not sure what it is, and I'm not going to screw with it for a few days. Any ideas?
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