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Current A8PicoGram status (2023-12-12) I have 10+ of both white and black PCBs, I have envelopes, and I have a little bit of free time. Let’s get these boards out the door and on their way to you! Hello, I am starting an A8PicoGram service. I will send you two (2) bare “OG” electrotrains A8PicoCart PCBs, anywhere in the world, shipped direct from California, for one single price. What is an “A8PicoCart”? The A8PicoCart uses a clone of the Raspberry Pi Pico board to “listen” to the electrical signals on an 8-bit Atari computer’s cartridge slot, then emulate the electrical signals of a “real” ROM cartridge. To your Atari 8-bit computer, it won’t know the difference between an A8PicoCart and a real cartridge. You can find out more about the A8PicoCart in the thread here on AtariAge: Currently, the A8PicoGram service will be offering the “electrotrains” variant of the A8PicoCart. You can find the user manual for the A8PicoCart here: https://github.com/robinhedwards/A8PicoCart/blob/main/A8PicoCart%20Manual.pdf About the PCBs… I have the “electrotrains” A8PicoCart PCB’s in white or black, with a HASL lead-free finish, and with a 45° bevel on the insertion edge of the board. If you decide to order an A8PicoGram, you can choose one of: Two white PCBs Two black PCBs Or you can be extra daring and/or fashionable, and get one white and one black PCB. Here's a picture of the 45° bevel compared to the 90° edges. Shipping I will be using USPS Domestic (USA) or International First Class mail for shipping, which is untracked. Let me say this again: I will be using USPS Domestic (USA) or International First Class mail for shipping, which is untracked. Getting tracking numbers would in most cases raise the cost of shipping between 5 and 10 times, and I’d have to start thinking about customs forms and such. It kind of defeats the purpose of distributing such a low-cost project in my opinion. The PCBs will be wrapped inside of a piece of paper with your address on it, in case the address on the outside of the envelope gets ripped off during processing/shipping. The paper-wrapped PCBs will then be inserted inside “photo mailers” (cardboard envelopes used for mailing photographs) and sent out. What I can do instead of tracking numbers is send you a picture of your envelope dropping into the mailbox, so you know about what time it will leave California on its way to you. If you want the picture, please ask for it, otherwise I won’t shoot one. How to order? Send me a private message (PM) here on AtariAge (https://forums.atariage.com/profile/30908-spicyjack/), and I’ll send you my PayPal address. I’m accepting PayPal only for now. When you send me the PM to order, let me know the following info: Whether you want 2 black PCBs, 2 white PCBs, or the fashionable 1 white/1 black pairing of PCBs Your name, and the address where I should ship the A8PicoGram to Your PayPal email, so I can connect AA people to emails in PayPal; you could also include your AA username in the “Notes” box in PayPal, that would help a lot If you are including extra money as a donation to “electrotrains”, and/or you want me to make your donation "anonymous", let me know that as well If you want me to send you a picture of your envelope being dropped into the mailbox, for “tracking” purposes; if you don’t mention it, I won’t take a picture When you send me the money via PayPal, make sure you check the box that says: "Send/Receive Money for Goods and Services" And send the money in “US dollars” (USD). I will ship from California on Wednesdays and Saturdays, excluding US holidays (Christmas, New Year’s Day, etc.), when the post office here is closed. If you PayPal me the money before noon California time (that would be 8pm UTC, we are 8 hours behind UTC) on Wednesday or Saturday, I'll ship the same day. Well, how much does all this cost? Here are the total prices in US dollars (USD) for sending 2 x A8PicoCart PCBs to you in a nice envelope, with all postage and handling included; If you live in… USA - $11 (estimated ship time: 2-8 days) Canada - $12 (estimated ship time: 1-2 weeks) Mexico - $14 (estimated ship time: 2-3 weeks) South America - $15 (estimated ship time: 2-4 weeks) Europe (EU Zone)/UK/Australia/New Zealand/Asia - $16 (estimated ship time: 2-4 weeks, depending on where you live and how close you are to a big city) If your country is not listed here, PM me and ask, so I can go find out and let you know. Most likely, it will end up being the $16 total price. For the curious, shipping weight is 2oz (55g I think), and the envelope size is 6.5" x 4.5" x 3/16" (16.5cm x 11.5cm x 4cm) Donations to electrotrains $2.00USD from every A8PicoGram will be donated to “electrotrains”, $1.00USD per board. I will add your AtariAge username to the donation, if you want, so he knows who it is from. I will also make “anonymous” donations if you want, it’s up to you. If you want to donate more $$$ to “electrotrains”, just let me know beforehand, so I know what to do with the extra money you will be sending. Those prices are kind of crazy! Yeah, so let’s break the costs down… The two PCBs, envelopes, tape and labels are about $6 total. $2 for donations for two PCBs, so that’s roughly $8USD just to get it ready to ship. The rest of the money is for postage and PayPal merchant fees, the cost of which depends on destination. I’m getting more or less about $1 per board (usually less), depending on which country I’m sending this to. It’s still too much Feel free to download and order your own PCBs, the Gerbers are up in the “OG” electrotrains A8PicoCart repo: https://github.com/robinhedwards/A8PicoCart You’ll see it gets expensive quickly for small amounts of boards. More about the A8PicoGram Service Everybody who orders an A8PicoGram will be shipped two (2) PCBs… even if you only want one. It’s FAR cheaper to ship two, and it allows for things like solder mistakes, spilled drinks, making new Atari friends, and so on and so forth. There is a limit of two (2) PCBs per order, so that everyone who wants a pair of PCBs has a chance to get them. If this “service” becomes really popular and I order more PCBs, I may go back and revisit this limit at a later date. Known A8PicoCart Variants The “electrotrains” variant of the A8PicoCart (https://github.com/robinhedwards/A8PicoCart) has the PCBs designed so that the USB-C connector on the Purple Pico clone is facing “down” when inserted, i.e. the USB-C port on the Purple Pico is facing the cartridge slot in your Atari. This is so you can’t plug in USB-C power with your Atari turned off and accidentally “back-power” your Atari, thereby letting out “magick smoke” and causing great sadness to be had. These are the simplest A8PicoCart boards to buy parts for and solder, you only need to find a Purple Pico Clone, some pin headers (usually included with the Purple Pico), and possibly the optional pushbutton switch. There’s also an optional 3D printed cartridge shell for the “electrotrains” OG PCB, see the GitHub repo above. There are older designs by “electrotrains” that have the USB-C port pointing to the side of the cart. These versions are not being offered by me at this time. There is now (as of December 2023) also the “mozzwald” variant of this PCB, which I am NOT currently offering, this version is still being developed (somewhat) and tested. If you want some of the “mozzwald” variant A8PicoCart PCBs, you will have to either order them yourself from a PCB fab house, or have patience and wait for someone to order a batch and sell them. I may sell the “mozzwald” variants of the A8PicoCart at a later date, but no promises. Also, the “mozzwald” variant will need more parts and more soldering, but it will be more flexible as far as hardware and software development on your Atari. The “mozzwald” variant PCBs and 3D printed cartridge shells can be found here: https://github.com/mozzwald/A8PicoCart Ordering the rest of the required parts I’m not currently selling anything but A8PicoCart PCBs, everything else you will need to source yourself. For Purple Pico clone boards, I’ve had good luck with this vendor on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804090698520.html I’ve received Purple Picos from this vendor with the "faster" Winbond SPI flash chip, however, both of the known SPI flash chips that have been seen so far “in the wild” are supported in the current A8PicoCart firmware. Last time I ordered Purple Pico clones from AliExpress in August, it took about 2 weeks to take delivery from China to me here in California. If you want to save some wear on your Atari’s power switch, you can add the optional pushbutton switch to the A8PicoCart. You will need a “6x6mm thru-hole tactile momentary switch”. If you are going to 3D print a cartridge shell, then 9mm+ pushbutton height is suitable. But I don’t know how to solder… If you don’t know how to solder at all, you can buy cheap kits on FleaBay/Amazon/AliExpress that are sold for the purpose of helping you teach yourself how to solder. They are probably somewhat more “expendable” than your soon-to-be shiny new A8PicoCart. Search for “soldering practice kit” or “soldering practice board” if you are interested in this. A “cheap” soldering iron would also work for this project, but again, I would use it on the practice board first before trying it out on the A8PicoCart, so you can get a feel for how your new soldering iron works. The “electrotrains” version of the A8PicoCart is (in my opinion) an “okay” first soldering project, in that if you make a mistake soldering, you probably won’t be able to figure it out as easily as you could with a dedicated soldering practice kit. Don’t be afraid to try it however, and if you run into problems, post pictures of your soldering job on the A8PicoCart thread here on AA, and you’ll get help. Here’s a list of other suggested places where you could get help with soldering… Ask around at local computer clubs or user groups; I think all of the VCF’s usually run a soldering table. Ask around at local electronics clubs or at electronics supply stores Look for local computer/electronics groups on Meetup Ask around at community colleges or trade schools Ask on your local Craigslist, maybe in the “gigs” section Find a local makerfair and ask/look around for the soldering area, there will usually be one there There’s also probably a billion videos on all of the popular video services… this may be a case of “too much is not such a good thing after all”. I definitely trust anything Dave at EEVBlog posts, so you can start there (https://www.eevblog.com/) How can I trust you with my $$$? No tracking numbers, remember? Know that I’m not putting this all together to “make money”. However, I want to do it, because 1) I think it’s a great project that I want to support however I can, and 2) I feel it will help me connect to others in this community who feel the same way. If you have any questions about A8PicoGrams Ask them below, I'll do my best to answer. Ordering info again, just in case… Send me a PM here on AA (https://forums.atariage.com/profile/30908-spicyjack/). When you send me the PM to order, let me know the following info: Whether you want 2 black PCBs, 2 white PCBs, or the fashionable 1 white/1 black pairing of PCBs Your name, and the address where I should ship the A8PicoGram to Your PayPal email, so I can connect AA people to emails in PayPal; you could also include your AA username in the “Notes” box in PayPal, that would help a lot If you are including extra money as a donation to “electrotrains”, and/or you want me to make your donation "anonymous", let me know that as well If you want me to send you a picture of your envelope being dropped into the mailbox, for “tracking” purposes; if you don’t mention it, I won’t take a picture

I've been curious about what hardware is actually inside these new carts and been searching for information about them. What I found out from the Official PCB renders posted by @alex_79 and the official blog post is that the Limited Editon carts with LED marquee have a T-shapped PCB and other carts have a normal sized PCB. From the production picture @Mockduck posted, the carts contains: 128K flash chip (SST39SF010A) room for a RAM chip (probably 8K SRAM) Xilinx CPLD (probably XC9536XL) voltage regulator (probably AMS1117 3.3V) Oscilator (probably 50MHz active Oscilator) On the back of the PCB are some configuration jumpers. one to enable or disable the RAM and two more to configure the banswitch mode (probably 4K/8K/16K/32K). The official documentation says "The multi-mapper replaces five variations of three existing mappers" these variations are most likely: 4K ROM 8K ROM 16K ROM 16K ROM with RAM 32K ROM with RAM Since the RAM jumper is not grouped with the bankswitch jumpers, it wouldn't surprise me if RAM could also be enabled with 4K and 8K ROMs. Other interesing things of the PCB is that there is a JTAG header for programming the CPLD. Pin 12 of the cart, which is normally connected to GND has a special function. It is not connected to GND but connected to R1 and then (most likely) to the CPLD. A reason to do something like this is if the cart is programmed through the cart slot. The resistor R1 is a so called pull down resistor as it is connected to GND. They've probably done this for systems that use this pin as a way to detect a cart. Oops! Did they make a mistake? While looking at photos and frames of @swlovinist youtube video to see if I could identify the CPLD partnumber I noticed something odd about resistor R1. The text on the SMD resistor reads 104 meaning it is a 100K resistor. This is a very high value for a pull down resistor. Systems using pin 12 as cart detect will have a pull up resistor connected to this pin so a 'low' pin of the cart can be properly detected. The value of that pull up resistor will usually be from somewhere around 10K (external resistor) to 50K (internal pull up of micro controllor pin). So the 100K resistor on the cart is not able to pull the pin low enough to be detected. I think someone accidently made a mistake with the BOM (Bill Of Materials) list and entered 104 for the resistor instead of 102 (for a 1K resistor) as 104 is a common value used for decoupling capacitors (also on the PCB) ) I think when resistor R1 is replaced with a 1K resistor (102 text on 805 SMD resistor) the cart will be properly detected on troublesome systems. That's all I found out sofar. If anyone has more info or better pictures. PLease post them here! I'm looking forward to get some of the new carts and have a look under the hood myself

That's right! There is now a project to fully build your own Colecovision. The github repository contains most of the information needed to build your own from scratch. The idea of this project was to provide a extensive amount of documentation of the system, including the creation of the original PCB's. I used original parts as much as possible, and only varied if parts no longer exist. For instance the RF sub board has a variable tank no longer made. This is substituted with a variable coil plus capacitor. Project Contents: schematic (kicad 7) PCB (kicad 7) datasheets (PDF) 3D printable case parts (inventor 2024/STL exports) Wiki guides Console Project: https://github.com/sparkletron/righteous_tentacle_colecovision Controller Project: https://github.com/sparkletron/Colecovision_Controller After creating my own schematic I did verify it by using @ChildOfCv schematic as a reference. He did a great job, and saved me a great deal of time (My RF board contained the errors, go figure the easier board!). Special thanks to him for his work. There are minor value differences since mine is based on rev F vs the later rev that his is based on. The PCB is as 1:1 as I could make it to the original, alterations for DB9 ports, and non-plated hole building were made to make it easier for mills/etching a PCB. On that note my dream is to turn this into a community project, where people can update the schematic and create a pull request with there revision of the PCB. Creating a complete repository that documents all the revisions. No there is no step by step on how to assemble and create. If people would like that, make it a pull request on the wiki and will go from there. Some ideas for issue requests are below. PCB creation guide 3D printed parts guide Full assembly guide Controller guide If anyone wants to help out with the above let me know! The wiki page https://github.com/sparkletron/righteous_tentacle_colecovision/wiki/Tear-Down-Notes describes the tear down process. Parts listing for purchasing: https://github.com/sparkletron/righteous_tentacle_colecovision/wiki/Detailed-Part-Listing-For-Orders Documentation of various signals: https://github.com/sparkletron/righteous_tentacle_colecovision/wiki/Testing-and-Verification A few other minor notes, no I will not be selling any boards and I won't be selling any parts in general for this. This is for the community to enjoy and do with as they wish. Enjoy! -Jay Pics Incoming... - 3D printed case, with 3D printed controllers. - Inside of the 3D printed case. - Completed PCB during testing (created using a PCB mill). - RF cage open

https://github.com/sparkletron/Colecovision_Controller The github link above is for my finished project that has all the files to create a 3D printed Colecovision controller with all the original functionality. The form factor is the size of a NES controller. It uses micro-switches, single sided PCB, diodes, #4 pan screw, 3D printed parts, and a Sega Genesis extension cable. This is available with no license, do as you please with it. All files are available in the github repo.

Hi All, I just received my prototype board for the TI Mini Expansion System, it uses Peter Schuberts AT mini system cards from about 1986. I will post more info soon, here are some pics. Please note there are empty 40 pin sockets, these are there for adding a RP Pico or an ATMega 32, for future expansion. Regards Arto.

New Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB). Designed as a direct replacement board for an exact fit in the Vectrex controller. For maintenance and/or or repair of your GCE / MB / Bandai バンダイ Vectrex 光速船 Kousokusen Controller. Price is $10.00 (USD) each, Plus Shipping. Available from Jason Kopp (aka Arcade Jason). Send him a message for total costs. Reach out to Jason via his email address: KoppJason83@yahoo.com https://www.youtube.com/c/ArcadeJason/about Vectrex Controller Replacement Printed Circuit Board (PCB).

The title says all, I have converted the existing schematics into Kicad. This is the 1.0.0 release, and hopefully there will be no erratum. https://github.com/sporniket/kicad-conv ... /tag/1.0.0 The release provides a PDF with the schematics, a PDF with the silkscreen of the motherboard reconstruction, and a ready to use Kicad project (libraries included). For the schematics, I have decided that : Symbols for the ICs will show the physical layout of the pins, as it makes it easier to spot the pin on the real IC (for me at least). And because thanks to that, the GSTMCU still fits on an A4 sized sheets. On one occasion I deviated from this choice (for the dma sound amplification and filtering) as it obfuscated too much the circuit. Each original sheet is splitted so that each sub-part is printable on a A4 sized sheet. A Table of content I also have mentionned some fixes that would be usefull/mandatory. DMA pull-up on databus WD1772 pull-ups LMC audio mix fix RGB Video ghosting fix C415 that should be reversed The projects contains an approximative reconstruction of the motherboard's PCB. It will be good enough to locate a given component and to know how a signal is distributed accross the board. And it allow to make nice 3D renderings.

Hi all. First time here, hope to find help - i'm pretty new to cleaning retro electronics, so help would be most welcome :-) I've just bought a Ti99/4A from 1981 (silver) and it works fine, but is in dire need of a good cleaning. Do you have any good advice before undertaking this task (related to the Ti99/4A)? And on a more specific note, does anyove know if there is a CMOS battery to be aware of? Thanks!

We've finally finished the reverse-engineering and testing of the open-source Aquarius motherboards. Enjoy them in good health, and promote the platform! https://github.com/1stage/Aquarius-Motherboard-1-1-0

Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf

i watched an LGR video on this. but i can only afford a PCB. is there a way to play an arcade PCB like Pac-Man straight from the board without a SuperGun?

While browsing the web, I found this picture: It looks like someone is working on remake of full size 800XL motherboard. Source: https://ezcontents.org/atari-800xl-pcb-remake https://twitter.com/ezcontents Did anybody heard about it before or know this person?

Hi everyone Universal Grom/Rom Module I have been trying to track down info on this PCB, but no luck here on previous threads or WHTECH about multi-carts, it has similarities to the Super Extended Basic cartridge around the Grom section of the PCB. I am hoping that the wiser people can dig deep into their memory's and illuminate this Boards history. Any info would be a plus.

I recently finished a project where I had to gut these from new aftermarket controllers.These function with the Nintendo entertainment system. These would serve as direct replacement in an old worn out NES controller and work great. I have about 19 of them. PM me if you want all or one of them.

I got a wonderful wedding gift from Ermanno from Italy - Astharot on atariage. It is an Extended Basic Plus I didn't know existed. It is from Sebasoft from 1987. There was no single reference to it in the whole The Cyc (cadd99.com). Now after honeymoons I finally had some time to examine it, at least by opening it. Is this some unique PCB layout? It seems it shows ROM and 2 GROM to the TI, but fakes the GROMS to the TI using standard Eproms and some logic. The board uses TMS27128 for some reason, which means 16k per chip if I am right. I made lots more pictures of the PCB parts if anyone is interested.

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My former boss used to work at Parker Brothers in the early 1980s, pre-'84. I don't recall his exact position but I believe he was high up on the engineering side, possibly director-level. He told me stories about leading the team at Parker which reverse-engineered the VCS/2600 so they could produce games for it. As I'm sure most know, they also made games for the 8-bit computers in that era. Once he learned of my own interest in Atari and retrocomputing in general, he gave me a couple of small items from his Parker days.

Hi there everybody, I have the following Issue with a Lynx I. Left on the D-pad is not working. After closer examination of the PCB it is clear what happened: The trace of the left D-pad button runs through the center of the 4 D-pad, exactly where the central tilting axis of the D-pad rests on the PCB. Due to heavy use, the part of PCB directly underneath the D-pad axis has started deteriorating, severing the trace of the D-pad left button. I tried repairing it using conducting ink, but it was for me impossible to only expose the copper of the trace and the trace is very fine. The result was no connection or a shortcut with the surrounding ground, resulting in continues left-input. So I cleaned it up again. I attached a foto of how it looks now. Has anyone experience with repairing this issue or similar PCB damage? I have already been looking into repair using copper or silver wire and using insulating arcylic or silicon based conformal coatings, but I am still a novice at this. Any tips on good PCB repair tools products for hobbyists are welcome. Is it me, or is running this trace directly underneath the area, where the tilt-axis touches the PCB a design fault or not? Thanks advance!

Hi All, Last year (before I started developing the Ultimate Cart) I decided to have a go at assembling some homemade cartridges using the Pixels Past circuit boards: http://www.grandideastudio.com/pixels-past/ It took me a while to get the Gerber files provided in a suitable state to upload to OSH Park - there was a missing board outline file, and the drills file needed editing. In case anybody else ever fancies trying to get some of these boards produced from OSH Park, I've attached the known working zip file of the Gerbers that I used when I got my boards made. Robin pp_atari8bit_gerbers_OSHPark.zip

I recently picked up a 5200 4-port. It's missing several case screws. Can anyone confirm the correct screws used for the case? I think the screws that came with this 5200 are type b #6-20 3/4 sheet metal screws. Is that what it should be or perhaps these were used to replace the original screws that were of a different type? Here's what was in my 5200: It didn't have a power supply, but I found one elsewhere. It's an 11.5v version. I tested it with a multimeter and it's outputting 14.5 volts. From what I've found the voltage regulators in both the case and the switchbox should be capable of handling over 30 volts. Do I have any reason to worry about using the power supply? 3 volts over seems like a big difference, is that typical or should I start looking for another power supply? The traces (or is it the soldermask) on the back side of the board on is wrinkly (see the POKEY to C104 wire image below). Is that normal or is it a sign of something I need to be worried about? It looks like the VCS adapter compatibility mod was applied to this board, but I also see a capacitor between pins 1 and 17 on the POKEY and a wire on the underside between pin 1 of the POKEY and C104. Is this a known mod? Any idea what it's for? Trying to smooth out power to the POKEY perhaps? In the middle of the rat's nest that is the VCS mod, I see a resistor and a capacitor (?) wired in parallel from between the two resistors connecting R11 and C10 as part of the VCS mod. There's also a diode wired to either side of R10. Any idea what they're for? The parts side of the pcb, marked CA018087, has no revision. The solder side, marked C018085 is rev 7. I will probably apply the mod to separate the power from the RF. I was also thinking about doing the mod for composite and/or s-video, but doing that would make the VCS mod pointless, right? If I did the composite/s-video mod I could pull the VCS mod out. If I did that would I need to reconnect pin 24 on the cartridge slot to ground? Thanks for any help/information you can provide. I hope to get this 5200 up and running soon.

I just wanted to know if anyone has built an actual PCB replacement for the CX52 joysticks. Seems like that would be a better route to go than adding gold contacts to the various revisions of the Flex circuits. Sure, it would probably make it a wiring mess like the Colecovision standard controllers but I'd speculate it would still be doable and reliable...

Hi all, I am hoping someone on here with some experience repair an asteroids PCB can help me troubleshoot a minor issue I am having. My left rotate is sticking intermittently. I have replaced the buttons so I know it is a problem on the logic board but I don't know where to look. Every once in a way the ship gets stuck rotating left and then i can rotate right and it will eventually fix itself during game play. It only crops up once in a while. Any ideas?

Hi. I already have a thread in the wanted section asking the question in the title above, but I figured that many arcade lovers and cabinet owners never look there but hang around here. I am looking for a non-conversion Neo Geo cabinet- 1, 2, or 4 slots is fine. Please PM me if you have one available or know of one around NJ. Thanks all and have a good weekend!

Hello TIer! I recently look for TI-99/4A schematics and found the usual material on WHTech FTP-Server. But these schematic diagrams are not very useful. They contain errors, are badly readable and you can't do nothing else than watching them. Unfortunately I can't find any digitally captured schematics, so I started to make some new by myself. The first schematic I redraw was the one of the TI console. I took this original as a template. Currently this schematic could contain more errors than the original, because I can't decipher all the small printed and unsharp displayed values and reference numbers of the components correctly. But it should be possible to generate or design a new PCB from it. With this work I also try to separate some function blocks into its own schematic sheets. So the schematics for the console is split into multiple files: CPU Sound Video Keyboard (with Joystick and cassette port) RAM/ROM 8 to 16 bit switch, which generates the A15 GROM logic I/O Ports internal address decoding My work is published in a new repository on the well known git hoster bitbucket. All schematics are (and should be) created with the KiCad EDA, a cross platform and Open Source Electronics Design Automation Suite. I hope here are some people who are willing to support this activity. Greetings!