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Found 41 results

  1. Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
  2. I'm not sure why, but the copy of Super Mario All-Stars + World I got in the mail today has the exact same problem my copy of plain ol' Super Mario World does: one of the sound channels is just not working. No matter what I do, clean it, shuffle the cart around when I insert it, even tried different systems, nothing works. Does anyone have any idea why this could be? I had this problem before with a SFC copy of Link to the Past, and likewise, I couldn't find a solution for that either. Would it be something in the circuitry causing this? Any help would be appreciated! EDIT: After looking around, I did find a possible solution: either go RF or try to find better AV cables, because it seems the stereo output is broken...
  3. Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
  4. This has gotten really odd so I figure this is the best place to get some help. My Atari paddles were jittery at first, and I followed the instructions to clean them. After cleaning them, they were still jittery. I cleaned them again, and the issue persisted. To test if it was a broken pot, I modded a new one from Radio Shack onto one of the controllers, which also didn't change anything. I have a spare Flashback 4, so I tested the controllers on that. Both of the paddles played very smoothly, almost like new. And yet, when I plugged them into the actual system, they seemed broken. I noticed that the pins on the Flashback seemed smaller, so I tried to use the controllers with a serial port adapter with the same size pins, but it didn't work either. I get that I could just buy another pair, but the controllers aren't actually broken, so I don't think I should. Plus, I'm not sure buying another pair of paddle controllers would solve the problem. If it helps, the paddles are (2nd?) generation, the kind were the shaft of the pot is a lighter color. My 2600 is a Vader. Ideas? I'm pretty stuck at the moment
  5. I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
  6. As some of you may know, I've been talking about posting a thread with some pics showing the picture quality issues I've been having with my 2600. It has a revision 12 motherboard and I've replaced the caps and voltage regulator. I've tried two different mod boards, both donated by members here. I want to make it clear, the mod boards aren't the issue, since they work extremely well in my 7800. The pictures you are about to see show the difference in picture quality between my modded 2600 and my unmodded Jr. While the picture from the Vader looks out of focus, it isn't. You can still clearly see the name plate on the bottom of the TV frame. I tried to take both pictures from the same distance and angle, but it's not perfect. I also had to shrink the pictures in order to upload them. So, here they are. I'd like to hear thoughts on what might be causing this issue, since I find it hard to use the Harmony Cart with my Vader because the menu is pretty hard to read. It's much worse in person than the pictures would lead you to believe. The first pic is from the Vader, the second is from the Jr.
  7. Hi I have some problems with the colors of some of my PAL 60 games. The console I use is a composite modded PAL Heavy Sixer on a modern Samsung TV. The game is Zippy The Porcupine, and I haven't played it before, but I can definitely tell that the colors are all washed out. What's supposed to be red is pink and what's supposed to be blue is white. Other PAL games displays perfectly fine. I've added a photo to visualize what's happening.
  8. After pulling my Apple IIGS out of the attic, I plugged it in to my modern LCD TV via composite. However, upon boot up, the screen is garbled and jumpy. If i wiggle/twist the RCA connector at the IIGS end, i can fix the garbled video and jumpiness, however the colors are all wrong, as in they look very deadened/muted. Medium blue appears as a dark blueish grey, dark red looks like brown, yellow looks very faded, etc. Is this caused by the failure of a certain chip, should I replace the capacitors, or what? EDIT: I should also add that if I flip the switch on the back, and turn it on again, I have to wiggle the RCA cable all over again for a while to get the image to work. When viewing text, there are also several pink/green artifacts. Knowing that it is an Apple II on a color display, this could happen, but I just wanted to put it in here to be safe.
  9. Hi Im trying to fix this Commodore 64 but so far no success. When I power it up I get a line on screen (look at picture), after about 3 minutes the chips are slowly getting worm except for the PLA,SID and Kernal they get hot but just enough so that they can still be touched, i probed with my scope pins 1 and 39 on cpu and the clock seems fine ,how do I proceed from here I am suspecting the PLA but dont have another Commodore to test it I heard that I could test the chips using a arduino but probably would need a code for that.
  10. Hello, I'm looking to solve an issue I am having with my Atari 800. I bought an S-Video cable years ago off of eBay. It produces crisp video on my Atari 800, but the colors seem off. Additionally, bright colors seem to produce a ghosting effect. Please see my attached screenshot of River Raid. I'll also include a screenshot of Basic to show how characters look (A, M, N, and W in particular). Any thoughts on what the problem is? With an RCA cable, I don't get the ghosting effect, but the colors still seem off. I have an 800XL and the colors look fine with this cable. It's been years since I've used these systems, and I never looked closely at the video output until now. EDIT: In Basic, lowering the luminance of the text seems to help with the ghosting issue. Is there any way I can fix this at a hardware level? Thanks in advance!
  11. I am having a problem with my TRS-80 Color Computer 2, it will not load cassettes. I just bought a new cable for it on Ebay, as i did not have one. The seller said it was made himself, it was hooked correctly into the cassette recorder, but when i try to load a cassette, it just sits there and does nothing, the motors do not run at all on the player with it hooked up, unless i hit play on the recorder, and it still will not load! any ideas?
  12. I'll get right to it - there's a problem with my 2600. After it's been running for a while, the colors begin to change. The only big one I've noticed is the transition of blue to green, though there may be more. I've attached a picture of what it looks like. It's not an actual screenshot from the system, it's an approximation made from a screenshot in Stella that I doctored up in MS Paint. Any ideas? Suggestions? Should I just throw it out? I have a theory though - I'm using a stock power supply that is damaged - I have to have the cord in just the right position to get it to work. I read a post a few years ago that said these power supplies are made of bad components and over time lose resistance, thus letting in more voltage than the system can take. This can lead to an Atari Barbecue, which I fear is happening in this case. If it helps at all, I'm also using a first-run Harmony cart from 2011. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  13. Hello everyone, Today I got a faulty Atari Jaguar. When i turn it on i got only a black screen, even the jaguar logo with red background is not showing (the indication of bad contacts in the cartridge slot) I'm connecting it to the TV using the original Jaguar RF adaptor, this works perfectly attached to a TG-16 Please help me giving me ideas for common related problems and its solutions. Thanks in advice I recorded this demo video: [video=youtube_share;-9B-WTYVfqA]
  14. Just wondering if any body had an idea what wrong with the display on this TRS-80 Model 4 I just got yesterday. While I've played with electronics all my life, CRT's are a little out of my league. I'm wondering if it's a bad capacitor or something. some times it fast rolls, the weird diagonal lines are always there as you can see in the video. I haven't test the floppies yet, got to get some Model 4 boot disk.. which could be a challenge. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hA82fPno-6o
  15. As I mentioned in my last post, the reason why I got a lowered price on my Red Baron was because it developed a problem while I was there. Well, now time to discuss and possibly narrow down the problem! What is going on is the machine will power up, warm up, and then.. well the screen flashes on and off constantly. It will go into game mode and I can just make out that the game is playing and sounding right. I opened it up and was watching the LEDs on the main boards and the CRT board. The main and aux board LEDs light on start up and stay on. The LED on the monitor board lights up, stays on, then starts flashing off and on once everything powers up. If I unhook the main board (by accident there), the monitor LED lights and stays lit. So, do I have a board problem or a monitor problem? I an hoping it's an issue where I can just remove a component to have it repaired instead of trying to move the whole game. I have a couple minor cabinet repairs to make as it is because of the move. On a final note, I noticed that the power supply makes a rather distinct hum when it is on. Is this normal? It does have a whopper of a power transformer on there compared to my other games. Also, this Red Baron is using the Wells Garner monitor rather than the Electrohomes I ususually see. Hope someone here can help!
  16. Hey guys I just uploaded a video on Youtube on a possible power issue fix for the Lynx and figured it'd be something you guys woud be interested in: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i44fj6lja1M Basically the Lynx II I got wasn't powering on from the power button on batteries and through googling I found a few threads here that discuss the problematic MOSFET on some Lynx boards. I suspected that until I powered the Lynx from an AC adapter and got it to turn on. Looking over the PCB, I found two 100uf 35v capacitors that come almost directly off the battery power input, one of which had leaked so I cleaned it up and replaced both for good measure and presto! Worked from batteries again. I thought it worth posting since I'd not seen it mentioned here and it may help someone else resurrect their Lynx. The LCD in mine sadly turns out is screwed but any victory is still a victory
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