Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'problem'.
-
Hello everyone, I recently picked up a sears telegames 6 switch Atari 2600 at a flea market. When I got home to test it out, it had this weird screen issue that I had never seen before. What happens is that when I turn the system on, only the top right 1/4 of the screen appears, then after 7/8 of the screen is drawn in about 30 seconds it then stops. Also the video is black and white. I can't even see Pacman. And when I switch to console to black and white, the screen displays a different "shade" of black and white so I know it's not the switch. But my main issue is that I have no idea how to fix this. I've attached a picture of the screen when it is "done" drawing for reference, and the picture is when the console is set to color. I have opened up the Atari and nothing seems wrong. No broken solderer joints, no burst capacitors, the cartridge slot has been cleaned. I have tried other games as well and they all don't display correctly either and have the same problems and they all work fine in my colecovison expansion module. I've tried a CRT and an LCD television with the same results and I'm using an RCA to coax connector instead of the RF switch. Heck, even the ac adapter is a new 9 volt plug from radioshack that I use with my pong console, and the RCA cable I'm using is new. Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to cover all my bases so people know it's not something obvious. In short, I have no clue what's wrong and was wondering if anybody could deduce the issue of this console? Thanks in advance.
-
After pulling my Apple IIGS out of the attic, I plugged it in to my modern LCD TV via composite. However, upon boot up, the screen is garbled and jumpy. If i wiggle/twist the RCA connector at the IIGS end, i can fix the garbled video and jumpiness, however the colors are all wrong, as in they look very deadened/muted. Medium blue appears as a dark blueish grey, dark red looks like brown, yellow looks very faded, etc. Is this caused by the failure of a certain chip, should I replace the capacitors, or what? EDIT: I should also add that if I flip the switch on the back, and turn it on again, I have to wiggle the RCA cable all over again for a while to get the image to work. When viewing text, there are also several pink/green artifacts. Knowing that it is an Apple II on a color display, this could happen, but I just wanted to put it in here to be safe.
-
I am having a problem with my TRS-80 Color Computer 2, it will not load cassettes. I just bought a new cable for it on Ebay, as i did not have one. The seller said it was made himself, it was hooked correctly into the cassette recorder, but when i try to load a cassette, it just sits there and does nothing, the motors do not run at all on the player with it hooked up, unless i hit play on the recorder, and it still will not load! any ideas?
-
Hi guys! Im in the uk and I have a problem with my intellivision that I hope you can help me out with. A few weeks back I got the console from eBay. It was working fine apart from a small colour issue, the greens were red etc. But after 20 or so minutes the games would correct the colour. It suddenly went to a blank screen when i turned the console on or pressed reset. After taking it apart and giving it a dust down as well as cleaning the port with a credit card and a lint free cloth the title screen comes on, all in the right colours. Sometimes I have to hold the reset button and release it at the same time as switching it on to get the title screen. But as soon as I press any key or the d pad on either controller the screen goes blank. On mazeatron I get the title screen with the intro music, but, again, as soon as I press anything it goes blank. On demon I get the title screen and the graphics moving about, but does absolutely nothing when I press any key, it doesn't go blank, just stays on the title screen. I also tried leaving it on for a while on just the title screen to see if it would turn itself off as it did before, but it just stayed on the title screen for almost 20 minutes before i turned it off. I noted that underneath was quite warm. When i opened it up i couldnt see any damage, but then, i dont really know what im looking for. I have never attempted to fix anything like this before, i dont even know how to solder and i have no computer or electronic skills at all, i have absolutely no idea what im doing. Please help! Many thanks for reading!! -
Hey guys, yesterday I opened up my atari 2600 4 switch because the picture on the screen hasn't been the best lately. Sometimes it has good picture and sometimes it doesn't :I Anyways, I opened it up and found that the rca cable that leads into the system has a small cut at the very end. This is most likely the picture problem. I tried to pull it off and switch the chord, but I couldn't! It was stuck! I applied some force to it, but nothing. I don't want to put TOO MUCH force, because I don't want to break the thing. Is anyone else's Atari 2600 stuck like this as well? I believe this is the original cable.
-
Yo guys, I'm having problems with a colecovision i found in my grandads garage that used to belong to my uncle. The unit used to work absolutely fine till the day he put it away. Ive already done some troubleshooting with it, I've actually replaced the power switch and ive tested the voltages from the power supply and all seems to be fine but no matter what i do, i can't get it to work properly. It keeps displaying garbled graphics and wont load games properly. Sometimes it shows the coleco load screen with game name but all the letters are screwed and may sometimes also go to the blue selection screen but wont do anything. I really wanna fix this thing in time for my uncles birthday for early next year as he has fond memories of it as a child. Here is a video i posted on youtube of the problems I'm having:
-
Hi, I bought my CX-40 at a flea market a while ago, it used to work great, but now it has a problem where to move right, I have to move it farther then all of the other directions. Also, the right contact seems to have a "Sweet spot", if I don't move the joystick to that sweet spot on the right contact, it won't register. Odds are someone will know what's wrong with it.
-
Hey guys n' gals, I recently found myself a copy of Chiller for NES. I tried cleaning it and testing it on different systems but it doesn't work properly. It screams at me (which is normal) but it is a white screen. I press start and I can hear sound and see the monsters but the monsters are all solid gray and the environments are missing. I opened up the cart and judging by a picture I found online, I think this board is missing a resistor. As you can see in the picture of my board, there are 3 resistors at the top left, but in this picture I found online, there should be 4 there. I am hoping this is the issue and that it can be solved. I could probably replace the resistor but I can't tell which one I need. Does anyone else have a copy that they can take a look at the board and check? Thanks.
-
I have been really getting into Activision Skiing lately and have started to experience a problem with the game or possibly my console. Whenever I load up the game it only generates very short courses for me to ski. For example, game number 3 is supposed to generate 30 gates to ski through, but only generates 6. Turning the console on and off, unplugging and replugging the console back in, removing and reseating the cartridge, cleaning the contacts on the cartridge and the console, exercising the switches on the console and turning it back on afterwards doesn't seem to help. (It's a Sears Tele-Games Video Arcade "heavy sixer") The only thing that seems to work is just playing some other games and then coming back to skiing after 10-20 minutes. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the console "warming up" or something? Anyone here have this experience / could shed some light on this problem I'm having?
-
Just wondering if any body had an idea what wrong with the display on this TRS-80 Model 4 I just got yesterday. While I've played with electronics all my life, CRT's are a little out of my league. I'm wondering if it's a bad capacitor or something. some times it fast rolls, the weird diagonal lines are always there as you can see in the video. I haven't test the floppies yet, got to get some Model 4 boot disk.. which could be a challenge. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hA82fPno-6o
-
I have the following set up: Sears Tele-Games Video Arcade "Heavy Sixer" • Replaced original RF cable with a RG6 Quad Shielded Coaxial cable with Gold plated ends connnected to the "Heavy Sixer" using a gold plated Coaxial to RF adapter • RF cable (the RG6 Coaxial) into DVD Recorder (Toshiba D-R4) Coaxial Input Link to more info on Toshiba D-R4: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-D-R4-Multi-Drive-DVD-Recorder/dp/B0007UVYOY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top • Component output of DVD Recorder into Vizio E390-A1 Television Component inputs (RCA for audio cable for Audio Left and Right channels) Link to more info on Vizio E390-A1 http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-E390-A1-39-inch-1080p-60Hz/dp/B009IBXEH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422643716&sr=8-1&keywords=Vizio+E390-A1 The picture looks great! I'm very happy with this set up except for one thing. When playing some games a channel display intermittently appears on the upper right corner of the screen that says "3" or sometimes "3 Stereo SAP". It's not always there, but appears intermittently and it only does this on some games - not all. For example, Space Invaders does not provoke this problem while Ms. Pac-Man does. I tried unhooking the audio connection to the TV because it appeared to be related to the game sound (i.e. in Ms. Pac-Man if I'm eating dots then there is the sound that goes with that action and the unwanted display shows up, but if I stop and don't move it goes away). Nevertheless, removing the audio cables did not make a difference. I have included a picture below to depict the problem. Does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this issue? Thanks! Dave
-
I have a problem with my ultra pong doubles. Sound is fine, but the screen is very distorted. This is what happens when you turn it on: No display mods have been done.
-
I recently purchased a non-working asteroids unit (serial # 28,XXX) from craigslist. Below is a brief detail of the unit: -Asteroids Rev -04 board -Monitor is a G05-802 -A/R I board As you can see in the attached pictures, there is a weird ripple in the test pattern and it is noticeable when playing as well. Also here are the 0-scope shots: http://imgur.com/a/15LpC ... The Y signal has an odd spot that doesn't match the manual (circled in red) I have replaced/checked the following so far: -Checked all fuses in unit, all are good. -Checked voltages from Power Brick. All checked good. -Checked unregulated input (~ 10-13 volts) and regulated 5V output (~5.10 V) on A/R I board. -Replaced caps on HV unit, Deflection Board, Main PCB, A/R I, Big Blue -Checked all diodes and transistors on Deflection and HV boards, all test good. -Checked bottle cap transistors mounted to chassis. All check good. Made sure all were NOT shorted to case. -Quickly checked all connectors and all seem to visually look intact. Re-flowed solder to all connectors on Deflection and HV board. -Replaced R100 and R101 on deflection board with 18 AWG wire. -Checked X and Y signal from game PWB with O-scope and the ripple is present so I believe the problem is from the PWB. Does anyone know what this ripple can be caused from on the game PWB?
-
I'll get right to it - there's a problem with my 2600. After it's been running for a while, the colors begin to change. The only big one I've noticed is the transition of blue to green, though there may be more. I've attached a picture of what it looks like. It's not an actual screenshot from the system, it's an approximation made from a screenshot in Stella that I doctored up in MS Paint. Any ideas? Suggestions? Should I just throw it out? I have a theory though - I'm using a stock power supply that is damaged - I have to have the cord in just the right position to get it to work. I read a post a few years ago that said these power supplies are made of bad components and over time lose resistance, thus letting in more voltage than the system can take. This can lead to an Atari Barbecue, which I fear is happening in this case. If it helps at all, I'm also using a first-run Harmony cart from 2011. Any and all info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
-
So, I went to go play my trusty Atari 2600, and discovered that she is displaying some very unusual behavior. For the record, this is a 4 switch light (CX-2600A REV 12). I have cleaned the carts and the slot, to no avail. I've googled, and googled, without any luck. Anything other than combat results in this:
-
Hi All, I recently got a Atari 2600 Vader (4 switch). The problem I have is with the video. The bottom of the screen has a verical bar on each side below the main picture. Also, the left side of the screen I see tearing. Anyone know what can cause this? Thank You.
-
So, I'm in Visual Batari Basic, and I start compiling. Everything seems fine, and Stella seems to be connected to Visual BB. So, I click run (Expecting at least SOMETHING to happen), and it literally says (On the bottom) "Could not locate SED.EXE"... Now, I honestly have no clue what that is. I search it up in the Windows search thing, and it's not anywhere. It also says "Recompilation Failed". Finally, when I press the play button, it claims "Could not locate default.bas.bin"... Can someone please help me on what's the issue? I would like to know... Thanks!
-
Hi everyone I've recently purchased a Jaguar off Ebay that is in great condition. Came with many games and extra contorler. However, the picture does not work properly. The sound works fine but when it is turned on, the picture flashes on and off. I have uploaded a video to youtube to demonstrate. It came with a standard scart output not RF. This model of Jaguar does not even have the RF out... At the end of the video, I show the telly using the same scart to display a Wii working perfectly just to prove it is not the telly. There are also some pictures at the bottom... Does anyone have any idea what is causing this issue, and how I can reslove it? Thanks Ali
-
Hi, I have a Lynx II that I got a while ago, but never had an Ac adapter to use with it. I just bought one from Best, but it did not work at first. I discovered this morning that it will work, but only if I don't insert the plug all the way into the Lynx. While this works, it is not a good solution since any movement will cause the Lynx to turn off. I am thinking that the power jack is at least semi-broken, but I am not sure on that. I know that Best sells new power jacks, but I am horrible with soldering and would be afraid of breaking the Lynx. Do you all agree that it is likely the power jack? Also, does anyone here or on another site do Lynx repairs? Thanks Aaron
-
Hello! I'm having a problem with my Colecovision the past couple of days. It's been working great for a couple years now. It was working fine just a couple days ago, but suddenly now it only displays mostly static on the screen when I turn it on. There is no visual of any game/startup screen. The attached pic shows the pattern of static I see. Sorry, it's sideways. The top quarter of the tv is plain black, but then there's like a reddish line and the rest is static (although the bottom quarter seems yellowish). I've tried using different RF Adapters and cables and it's the same problem (maybe the colours a little less noticeable, but same issue). For now, I'm just using a direct cable connection to the tv. I've already taken apart the power switch to clean the contacts on its top and bottom halves. No change. Another piece of info. I recently checked out the voltage readings reaching the main board from the power supply. When the power is off: Blue: -4.6 V White: 4.75 V Red: 9.7 V --Wait, isn't that a bit far off? Then I turn the power on and here are the readings: Blue: -4.6 V (same as before) White: 4.75 V (same as before) Red: 6.4 V -- Is this supposed to happen when the power is turned on?? I'm worried that the problem could be the RF Modulator. But those power supply readings seem strange, but I don't know why the system would work fine for years and then suddenly this would be the problem. Anyway, based on this info, and the picture attached, does anyone have any suggestions/ideas of the problem and how to fix? Thanks, all.
-
This has gotten really odd so I figure this is the best place to get some help. My Atari paddles were jittery at first, and I followed the instructions to clean them. After cleaning them, they were still jittery. I cleaned them again, and the issue persisted. To test if it was a broken pot, I modded a new one from Radio Shack onto one of the controllers, which also didn't change anything. I have a spare Flashback 4, so I tested the controllers on that. Both of the paddles played very smoothly, almost like new. And yet, when I plugged them into the actual system, they seemed broken. I noticed that the pins on the Flashback seemed smaller, so I tried to use the controllers with a serial port adapter with the same size pins, but it didn't work either. I get that I could just buy another pair, but the controllers aren't actually broken, so I don't think I should. Plus, I'm not sure buying another pair of paddle controllers would solve the problem. If it helps, the paddles are (2nd?) generation, the kind were the shaft of the pot is a lighter color. My 2600 is a Vader. Ideas? I'm pretty stuck at the moment
-
Hello everyone, Today I got a faulty Atari Jaguar. When i turn it on i got only a black screen, even the jaguar logo with red background is not showing (the indication of bad contacts in the cartridge slot) I'm connecting it to the TV using the original Jaguar RF adaptor, this works perfectly attached to a TG-16 Please help me giving me ideas for common related problems and its solutions. Thanks in advice I recorded this demo video: [video=youtube_share;-9B-WTYVfqA]
-
Hi everyone, I have a 2600 that has been sitting in a box for a couple of years. I took it out and fired it up and it was awesome...until the video went out. I now have sound, but noooooooo video. While I am perfectly capable of taking my atari apart, I really don't know what I should be looking for. Are there parts that I should jiggle? Are there things that I should take out and put back in? I tried to search the archives, but I don't really even know what I am looking for. So if anyone has troubleshooting suggestions, i would be greatly appreciative! I am without electronic equipment, but can walk to a radio shack if I need to pick up a multi-meter or something. Thanks all! david
-
As I mentioned in my last post, the reason why I got a lowered price on my Red Baron was because it developed a problem while I was there. Well, now time to discuss and possibly narrow down the problem! What is going on is the machine will power up, warm up, and then.. well the screen flashes on and off constantly. It will go into game mode and I can just make out that the game is playing and sounding right. I opened it up and was watching the LEDs on the main boards and the CRT board. The main and aux board LEDs light on start up and stay on. The LED on the monitor board lights up, stays on, then starts flashing off and on once everything powers up. If I unhook the main board (by accident there), the monitor LED lights and stays lit. So, do I have a board problem or a monitor problem? I an hoping it's an issue where I can just remove a component to have it repaired instead of trying to move the whole game. I have a couple minor cabinet repairs to make as it is because of the move. On a final note, I noticed that the power supply makes a rather distinct hum when it is on. Is this normal? It does have a whopper of a power transformer on there compared to my other games. Also, this Red Baron is using the Wells Garner monitor rather than the Electrohomes I ususually see. Hope someone here can help!
-
I'm not sure why, but the copy of Super Mario All-Stars + World I got in the mail today has the exact same problem my copy of plain ol' Super Mario World does: one of the sound channels is just not working. No matter what I do, clean it, shuffle the cart around when I insert it, even tried different systems, nothing works. Does anyone have any idea why this could be? I had this problem before with a SFC copy of Link to the Past, and likewise, I couldn't find a solution for that either. Would it be something in the circuitry causing this? Any help would be appreciated! EDIT: After looking around, I did find a possible solution: either go RF or try to find better AV cables, because it seems the stereo output is broken...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord