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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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Hey folks! I'm hoping someone on here can help lend some insight as to how I can repair my Lynx. Here is the issue: When I power up the unit, it reads the TITLE screen clearly from any game I use, but then becomes scrambled after it tries to load the actual menu screen and/or game. See the attached pictures. It should also be noted that it was doing this BEFORE I replaced all of the capacitors, and have since done a full recap and absolutely NOTHING changed. The sound works and music plays when the main menu is loaded (but scrambled) and it even responds to the controls, but the center of the screen is shifted way over and half of the screen is scrambled. I'm fully aware of the dark lines in the LCD... I did a recap because I was hoping this would fix the issue and was going to do a McWill screen mod install, but since it's not reading games clearly, I don't want to waste all the time and money yet. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
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alright, so I made a post here about a week ago asking for some tips on repairing my light sixer. nobody. responded so I decided to take matters into my own hands and tried to fix my Atari. so after about an hour trying to get it to work I gave up and decided to see if anyone can repair it. So if anybody can repair my light sixer please PM me with details. (sorry for my grammar I'm a little bit agitated)
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Picked up a Portfolio lot, and one of them just showed a "black" screen and no beep on initial reset So, following the rumours of the FFC cable breaking I began disassembly to get to the ribbon: Nothing apparent yet, let's get that tape off next... Aha! a hairline crack on the left, 6 traces broken. Rather than try and get the screen open to remove/replace the cable for now (the clear window hides some screws and I don't want to damage it) I decide to scrape some of the polyimide off to expose the copper of the ribbon wires And solder little jumpers across the gaps Partial reassembly to test... Yes, it works! And it beeps and clicks as well. This is only temporary, but it makes me happy for now
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Hi, I recently purchased a very nice looking Lynx II from eBay which was listed as faulty. Upon opening it I found that the ribbon cable which connects to the LCD screen was damaged and had split half way along its length. This didn't worry me so much because I had purchased it with the view to installing one of McWill's modern LCD displays, however upon further investigation it seems like there is some other problem. The unit was not powering on with either AC or DC power when a game was inserted. Seeing as this is a common problem I purchased a kit of replacement parts and proceeded to do the following: - Replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, - Added a new MOSFET transistor on Q12, - Replaced the transistors on Q4 and Q13, - Replaced the Zener diode - Replaced R74 with a 30 ohm resistor - Replaced the original power jack Unfortunately even after all these steps the unit will not power up on either batteries or AC power. Is a working LCD display needed for the unit to power up? Is there any more repairs I can attempt before giving up? I have checked it with a miltimeter and power is entering the circuitry but it just doesn't seem to be enough to get it running. Any suggestions as to next steps for trouble shooting? It's a very nice looking PCB with no corrosion so I was kind of surprised I could not get it running. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers
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Hi, although this is my first post, I am definitely not new here. I've poked around this site for years, now. With that said, I recently picked up a Famicom w/ Disk System for 40 dollars, sold as untested. While the Famicom, itself, does work, The Disk System is as I expected. The belt was destroyed. I cleaned that up and replaced it with a new belt. Now it works, but a new problem appears. This video explains the problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfCVyB2c378 If you have any ideas, please let me know, that would be nice. Thanks.
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i'm not sure if this is known even if, i recognized that the site was down until today. but whenever in need for the service manual you can be sure it won't be available online. the online version of the "Intellivision Service Manual (Model 2609)" is located here: http://www.kohtz.com/andrew/intv_sm/index.html the uploader stated that the pictures are from "INTVfunhouse", but i couldn't find them there. however, i downloaded the manual and made a PDF file from it, with the advantage that you can easy read or download it for a offline use: Intellivision Service Manual (Model 2609).pdf since the Schematic Diagram has some additional artefacts from converting/compressing, here the picture which i downloaded:
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I am rebuilding a Vectrex controller that had a hard life with a previous owner. I already fixed a bunch of broken traces on the buttons PCB and now those work great, but I also have a 3-legged pot that snapped off near the solder points. Attaching a picture of the part of the pot that broke. These pots latch onto the joystick. Has anybody managed to find a general purpose pot on the market (shack, mouser, etc.) that can be used to replace it?
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- vectrex
- controller
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Hi, As the title implies there is rust on my NES motherboard 72-pin connector. Here's a pic: https://imgur.com/uq73MtE Is this an issue? if so how do I treat it? I've already applied oil to it to prevent further rusting. Thanks
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I have a strange one... I have a toploader NES. I plug in the power and RF line and turn the console on. I get a very loud audio buzz and the video is basically moving horizontal stripes on the screen with no inkling of being actual graphics. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be or how to go about diagnosing this?
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Hello everyone, First of all: I am new to this forum and to the Atari 2600. I'm not sure if this is the right way/place to ask this, so if not, please tell me. I recently bought an Atari 2600 (darth vader) PAL console in untested condition. I got it to work mostly, the problems it had have mostly been solved except for one: There is interference in the video (RF) signal, which results in white dots moving around the screen in waves. (I have attached a video and an image of it) Here is what I already tried: -Use an NES (nintendo) RF switch instead of the built-in cable: introduced more static and the white dots remained. -Disconnected the RF cable from the Atari's motherboard and tried it with an NES: worked perfectly fine, no static at all. -Cleaned both connectors and the cable with some alcohol: Improved nothing. -Finetuned the tv channel multiple times. Important to mention is that the cable has been damaged and soldered back together by the previous owner, but since it worked fine with the NES i don't think this is the problem. My guess would be that there is something wrong with the big capacitor on the board or the RF modulator. It could also be due to the power adapter, it is one of those universal adapters on which you can set the voltage, I set it to 9V, I dont have an original one. Any help or tips would be greatly apriciated. MOV_0053.mp4
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I've got an older Odyssey 2 (the kind with the beige switchbox that it needs), and I'm having video trouble. I've attached a quick video of what it does. It looks like it switches on for a split second, turns off, repeat..? I had a buddy go over and check the power supply, check the traces on the board, and still no difference. We also tried tapping the RF directly off the internal RF convertor, bypassing the proprietary cable that comes off the back. I'm hoping this is a problem someone else has encountered.
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So several years ago my girlfriend (at the time, now wife, lol) knocked my Wii U gamepad off our coffee table where it flipped onto the floor landing firmly on the left joystick. From then on, instead of clicking in as it should (used in a number of games) it is squishy and doesn't do anything. Luckily the directional aspect still works. Several years ago I contacted Nintendo and they said it would be $80 to fix the damn thing, no matter what. Whether it was run over by a bulldozer or if it just had one small $5 dollar part needed (like I assume mine does.) Has anyone attempted to ever repair their gamepads for any issue. Any possibility of finding parts for this? Only a couple games really have a critical need for that left joystick click, but the more I think about it the more I realize I hang onto Nintendo consoles for decades so i'd really like it working for the years ahead and maybe should just suck it up and pay the "nintendo" tax before I can't get it repaired at all anymore... Thoughts?
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Hello, I have a Magnavox VCR/DVDR Combo unit that needs repair (Model No. ZV427MG9). I cannot find any local businesses in a 50 mile radius at my zip code 19804 that service VCR's. I know VCR's are basically obsolete, but I wanted to transfer old VHS to DVD and this is actually my fathers unit. The unit does power up and the DVDR works fine. The issue is that the unit will not play any VHS tapes. Once the tape is inserted, the unit will pull the tape to the head and then power down. Once I power the unit back up, it will disengage the tape from the head and eject. I was hoping someone in this forum could recommend a person or business. I am willing to ship the unit out. Thanks!!
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Hey all... I have three bad roller controller buttons. I opened up the case and cleaned the crap out of them with deoxit to no effect (that stuff saved my regular controller buttons for sure). Anybody have experience in this area?
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Morning folks, I wonder if anyone can help. I am desperately looking for some springs on what I think is an Atari 800XL type keyboard. In my latest repair a few have stretched and are no longer working very well. I have tried Best in the US, but unfortunately thry have a US$20 minimum order for international orders and have suggested that the shipping would also be prohibitively expensive. I was wondering if anyone out there would be prepared to send me a few across. Happy to pay whatever you think might be reasonable amount by Paypal. I need 3-4 conical springs and the two springs either side of the spacebar. Surely someone, somewhere has a scrapper machine they have stripped for spares from which they could recover a few springs? I would be extremely grateful if some kind sole would help. Heres to hoping, Nyonuk.
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Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
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I completely took apart one of my SACs, cleaned every contact and connector. I still cannot get any keypad buttons to function. I have two controllers, and not one working keypad button between them. I know the commonality of broken SACs has been brought up before. But has anyone actually successfully repaired the keypad on their Super Action Controller? If so, could you share what you did to fix it? Thanks,
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Hey everyone, I'm looking to sell an Atari 2600 "Vader" console that is having some issues. I took a chance on it at a thrift shop and cleaned it up a little bit but in my testing the unit, it does not play any games. It successfully receives power but does not display anything when a game is inserted. It does, however, power on when no game is inserted and displays random lines/video patterns and varying audio tunes. Not sure if this is a easy fix or not, but figured someone on here would be up to the repair task! I would be happy to include the console manual, power supply and an RF adapter for plug and play on a modern TV. Shoot me an offer and I can get you a shipping quote if you provide your zip code. Thanks!
- 6 replies
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- Atari 2600
- Vader
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Hello, I received an Atari 7800 with a damaged metal front plate and would like to purchase a NOS or refurbished replacement. Anyone have one for sale at a good price ? Thank you
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Do you have to desolder the speaker wires in order to be able to put in a new polarizer film? Thank you :3
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I have 2 different TI 99/4A systems (one with the solid state badge and one without), and both of them were working fine earlier today. However, when I came home the power LED had failed on one unit. I opened the machine up and replaced the LED with a blue one - but it didn't light. I replaced the resistor with a 4.7kΩ resistor and it was fine. However, before replacing the resistor, I used an analog multimeter to measure the voltage across the LED (8v, apparently), but one of the probes slipped into the middle of the supply and caused a few sparks to fly. However, the LED was still illuminated and it seemed to work fine. The computer was disconnected from the supply when this happened. However, when I reassembled the computer... Nothing. A few white dots come through the display on power up but that's it. I figure this was probably my fault and put a known good supply in - no luck. Naturally, being as stupid as I am and it being 11PM, I put the bad supply in the other machine. The same thing happened. I have not yet put the good one back in to test it. Did I just accidentally kill two different TI 99 machines? I really hope not, I love these things, one even has the packaging! Is there any way to fix these or even to diagnose what's wrong? I'd really like them to work but I don't want to go buy another machine, I just don't have the money.
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Hi, I just received my Vectrex which is a NoBuzz Version. All fine, except one thing... I have tried to capture the effect in a short video (link below), but I am not sure if this comes across well? The problem is if any of my controller is plugged into 1st player and I move the Joystick, the screen becomes horizontally compressed. This becomes very visible when text is displayed. Checksum = 7ADB If anyone has any idea of possible root causes, that would be really fantastic. Many thanks for your help in advance. Best regards, Sven. Vectrex.MP4 I have posted this already at Facebook, but with no response: https://www.facebook.com/groups/104852679725118/permalink/612723958937985/
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OK, so I have my pico psu. Couple of questions for those that have done this replacement. 1. How did you "stick it down" to the plastic shield on the ps base? Did you glue the shield to the base? 2. Mine has the ATX 24pin header, but I also see the pico has another header to output for peripherals, HD power, floppy power, etc.. Why not just run power on(green) to ground - and then run the ST off the peripheral header? it is smaller, lighter, cleaner? I notice all installs use the atx header and solder a bundle of wires (+5 v and Grounds) to the small 6pin MB header of the ST?? 3. I was going to cut into the Power line coming into the pico and wire the power_on to ground.. this way I am turning the entire pico on and off rather than it be powered on and then just soft start the ST. Did anyone else do it this way? James
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Hello. I am need of help! I have recently modded my 2600 to use AV and although I am getting color, the screen flickers like nuts... This mod required the removal of the resistor R209 and the transistor Q201/2 - I had to jump R209 to get color so I though maybe R209 was at fault - but tit was dumb luck that I did not throw R209 away so I tested it out, and the same thing happened so I know that R209 is not at fault. I decided that maybe the TIA is at fault so I bough a TIA Chip and it did not make a difference. Please help... Thanks! The Flashing on Combat: The Flashing on Pole Positn(-: My board (If that helps):