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Found 51 results

  1. Hi all, just want to announce that I´ve made a new replica for the Atari 1050 diskdrive, it´s The Mini Super Speedy 1050! This is an updated version of my MiniSpeedy 1050 with Super-Speedy functionality. You get all the features from the well-known Mini-Speedy 1050 with the additional feature to copy whole discs in less than 40 seconds (format, write, verify)! The Super-Speedy includes a 256 KByte buffer which holds the complete single density, enhanced/medium density or double density disc read before. Because the data must not transferred through the bottleneck SIO buss, one complete double density disc will be read in approx 10 seconds or less. Once loaded into the internal memory, you can create as much copies you want. Maximum time for writing a full double density disk with format and verify is 40 seconds. The special copy tool for using the Super Speedy function will be booted with open disc lever and the 1050 set as D1: into your Atari computer. Further the computer is only used as a terminal, all read and write accesses will be done by the 1050 itself. Without booting the copy tool, the Super-Speedy acts like any other Speedy 1050, too. It has the firmware V1.7 and runs fine with NTSC, too! By default (see the red jumper) the Super-Speedy firmware is active. When the jumper is removed, the standard Mini-Speedy V1.7 firmware with HSS copier is active. I patched the HSS copier to english language. Of course it also runs fine with NTSC systems. Find the installation instructions here: http://www.van-radecke.de/MiniSpeedy/MiniSuperSpeedy1050.pdf I´ve made a little video (made with cell phone, please excuse the quality) copying one double density disc with the Super Speedy: http://www.van-radecke.de/MiniSpeedy/MiniSuperSpeedy_copy_in_action.mp4 When using NTSC, you will see the timer more increasing, the reason is the 60 Hz vertical frequency, which is used for the timer. So real time needed is approx 30-33 seconds for a full double density disc to write (format & verify), but when done with a NTSC system, it will show up to 40 seconds, but uses only 30-33 😀 Mini Super Speedy 1050 is availible in 2-3 weeks. See my linked document in the signature below for more informations! Jurgen
  2. Hi, I have written a utility to dump the ROM from a Happy 1050, Lazer, or similarly modded disk drive to an Atari DOS file. The sources are at https://github.com/e474/DUMP1050/ if anyone wants to play around with them (I am a beginner with git, and haven't written any 6502 code for a long time). The program is based on source code from the Happy Programming series in the German Atari Magazin, 1987, issues 1 - 5. I'll be adding the translated articles and source files from the magazine in the near future. Hope this is of interest to anyone interested in programming Happy, Lazer or similar drives - any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks to Nezgar for testing an earlier version! dump1050.atr
  3. Hey. Some weeks ago i got a 1050 drive with LED display mounted on front panel. I've foud that is an early (?) version of Happy Warp , and I decided to recreate the schematic. You can find the oryginal topic, pictures, rom, schematic etc here: http://www.atari.org...ic.php?id=11300 The eprom is marked HAPPY 3 Can anyone recognize this version? eprom: hw_V3.bin The drive is not working, someone was trying to repair it but with no luck, now is my turn
  4. Over the past few months I've been given many Atari hardware items and software. These belonged to a friend of mine who was an avid member of the local Atari user group. He died about two years ago, and his son passed away about a year ago. I have been receiving various bits of documentation, paperwork, hardware and software from their family members in the time since they passed away. I've been asking what has and has not been archived and I've been doing my best to make sure that it has been archived (thanks to Allan Bushman for scanning and taking care of this 8-bit material-- he's such a great archivist!). Until this point, I've not given too much thought about using some of the hardware like the 1050/810 disk drives. These were all stored in an outdoor barn/shed. All of the hardware (the computers included) is very dusty and I'd be shocked to learn that any of disk drives work at all. A couple of months ago a friend of mine suggested that he would like to see an Atari load-up some floppy disks to play some games. We can do that already, as I have a disk drive emulator for the Atari and various AtariMax flash carts, but he wants to see some real 5 1/4" floppies booting to some game or other. In addition, included in the last batch of Atari items that I was given, was quite a bit of the Atari 8-bit public domain PD library on 5 1/4" floppy. It might be neat to load some of that stuff up on real hardware. My question is: is there a FAQ or repair/restoration manuals and/or videos on how to go through and restore Atari 810/1050 disk drives. I guess, at the minimum, I'd need to learn to clean/lubricate gears/motors/heads. Adam P.S. I also have several Atari 410 program recorders, but I'm not sure that restoring those would even be worth the effort. Or is there a reason to have these around?
  5. Hi, I thought I would start a separate thread for this, just in case anyone comes along later, and wants copies of these utility disks. I'll post a link to this article in the related threads - http://atariage.com/forums/topic/279029-slowdefective-1050-drives-with-lazer-upgrade/ and http://atariage.com/forums/topic/289957-interesting-homebrew-1050-happy-mod-pics/ I have archived off/preserved the disks that came with my Lazer (laser) / US-Doubler upgrade for my 1050. Unfortunately, the disk with the Lazer software was damaged, but only near the end of the disk, and all the sectors in that area contain only zero bytes, so I think the program itself is OK. I have written the Lazer software ATR that I made back to a real floppy, and tried that with the Lazer drive, and it seems to work fine - all the main menu options load (apparently) working programs, so I think this image is good. I've also included the Happy software I got with the drive - it's Happy 7.0, and appears to be a hacked version - I haven't tried the official Happy 7.0 software with the Lazer drive though, so can only assume it's been hacked. I do recall using this disk bitd, though that's all I can recall (at the moment). Also included is the Archiver Fix disk - this programs the Lazer to emulate an Archiver/The Chip, so you can use the Archiver/Editor software - I checked by programming the drive with menu item "E - Lazer Archiver", which was from LPS, and then loading the Archiver/Editor software (also on the disk), and reading tracks 1 and 2 (I assume this is a reasonable test). There are also some other Archiver Fix utilities, not sure if they work too, but they are probably worth a try if you have problems with menu item "E". Final disk image is "US Doubler Utilities" double density disk - it has a lot of menu programs, etc., on it that work with the US Doubler. This disc was supplied to support the Lazer drive in US Doubler mode. If anyone from any of the Software Preservation projects wants to include these images they are more than welcome to do so. Hope this is of interest! lazer_copier_master.atr lazer_happy_7_0_copier_master.atr lazer_archiver_fix_master.atr lazer_US_Doubler_utilities_master.atr
  6. Hey all, With a keen eye I spotted this 'untested' 'Modded???' drive on eBay. Sure enough it had a genuine Happy board, later 8KB SRAM revision, and Controller, but the mechanism needed some TLC. It was definitely stored for a long time in a humid environment because there was a bit of rust, and Aluminum oxidization that cleaned up nicely with an IPA wipe-down. The stepper motor and the top clamp spinner were totally seized. The stepper released with a little force and seems to be behaving now, and the top spinner and rails received a healthy dose of 3-in-1 oil. Now onto the testing! As you can see in the 'before' pictures the lower switch was busted off. This switch selects the write protect mode, which operates a little differently than the standard DIY mods in that the LED is an indicator of Write enable, even when in the lower position - It will actually turn off and on live depending on what the optical sensors see. The middle and top positions function as usual (always read only / always allow write) so I spent this evening replacing the broken switch with a spare On-Off-On switch. I didn't have one with the side-mount pins, so I fabricated it by soldering the bendy leads from the old switch onto mine, and then onto the PCB. It was a little tricky, because too much heat and the graft would let go. It's also not the same 'flat paddle' style switch, but it's not too practical to search & wait for a custom order for that... But I might still replace it I come across one in the future... so it matches that little paper printout The board has 4 wires that connect to a pin-header on the Happy board itself, and to the write-protect sensor & emitter pin header at the back of the drive. The removed sensor/emitter header then plugs directly into the controller board so it can monitor, and intercept or pass-through the real write-protect status. Anyhow, I believe there's been some interest in the 'Happy Controller' companion board for Genuine Happy 1050 upgrades, and maybe some detailed pictures may help someone someday in reproducing these. I've used Happy since forever, but its my first time with my hands on this little add-on. The upper track-buffer toggle switch is interesting, as it will actually still operate in Ultraspeed SIO, but with long gaps between each sector on a regular skew disk similar to USDoubler on a standard skew disk. I haven't yet tried a disk formatted with Ultraspeed skew. If you'd like to see any other views, let me know!
  7. Hi, I´ve made some more new pieces of my (mostly in germany) well-known expansions. If you´re interested, please find all informations below (end of this post)! 512 KB SRAM memory expansion for all Atari XL/XE and XEGS This small PCB (only 5 x 5 cm) enables your Atari XL/XE to watch the newest demos or play the actual homebrew games which requires often more than the 64 KB main memory of the machine. My solution don´t need the drill holes for switches, it´s software configured. After power on, the 512 KB "RAMBO" mode is active. This mode should fit all your needs in 99% of all use cases. For some rare programs you can switch to 256 KB Compy-Shop mode (with seperated ANTIC and CPU access) or switch the whole expansion off. These setting remains active until you power off the computer, a coldstart without power cycling won´t change the setting anyway. The ANTIC needs to desoldered, if it´s not already in a socket. Also the MMU. Just three wires must be soldered, a prepared cable for that is included. This SRAM based 512 KB memory expansion works in all Atari XL, XE and XEGS computers. Mini-Speedy 1050 for the Atari 1050 diskdrive This small PCB sizes only 5 x 5 cm and it´s installation is absolute solderfree. Just remove two chips, cut of four capacitors and plug in the Mini-Speedy 1050 PCB - that´s all! The Mini-Speedy 1050 offers the following features: 1. Highspeed SIO transfer up to approx 76000 bps 2. Real Double Density (180k each disk, 256 bytes per sector) 3. Flawless 8 KByte track buffer with highspeed write by default 4. Works with all known Highspeed SIO routines and any DOS 5. Built-in (just boot your 1050 with open disk lever!) Highspeed-Copy-Program or BiboDOS (needs seperate switch for changing Speedy O.S. selection). Turbo 1050 Replica for the Atari 1050 diskdrive The Turbo 1050, made by B. Engl, is one of the "freakiest" products I know. Just using an EPROM, a GAL (logic chip) and some parts around the Turbo 1050 is a very cool floppy enhancement for the Atari 1050 diskdrive. The power is in the software only! No track buffer, no additional RAM, no CPU with bigger address space. On the other hand, Turbo 1050 can copy more protected games like any Happy 1050! A short brief about the features: 1. Enables Double Density (180k per disk, 256 bytes per sector) 2. Enables Highspeed-SIO up to 70000 bps 3. Has built-in "BackUp Machine" for copying protected disks 4. Parallel port printer interface (not included in this replica) Due to the fact that the Turbo 1050 hasn´t any track buffer the Highspeed-SIO is always used, but really effective only when the disk to be used was formatted using the Turbo 1050. The Turbo 1050 formats disks with a special interleaving, so that these disks can be read at the same speed like all other floppy enhancements with track buffer. How to order You don´t need to show interest - these products are already developed and built, I have some at stock. Please load the following PDF file: http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf If this link won´t work, try this one (same content): https://c.gmx.net/@334647219317637459/l5-Q6dQOQl-nheYIoit9ZQ This PDF file will be regulary updated! So you don´t need to ask "Is there any left?" - just download the file and look to page 2 This "catalogue" also includes my other solutions. Jurgen
  8. I know that there are a few other threads on 1050 disk drive repair, so I hope I am forgiven for starting a new one. Hopefully some of my techniques might help others. Back in November a bunch of Atari 8 bit stuff was put on Ebay UK by a seller - "ginger_colin". It was all "buy it now" and most items were "for parts or not working", even though for the computer systems he showed the computer as operational in the pictures. Someone grabbed a bargain Atari 800 for less than £100. A number of items sounded like they needed a clean. I bought a 1050 for £30, then a day or so later bought a second for £35. I bought the first to use the case for an Atari related project which I started back in 2000, but then the second just seemed too good a bargain to pass up. The second drive was badly protected (hardly any bubble wrap) and when I took the drive apart it was clear that it had taken quite a hit during delivery. I powered up drive #1, but it was completely dead. I powered up drive #2 (the damaged one) and switching on and off several times, it operated the drive once only. So I knew that I had a repair project on my hands. I took both drives apart and cleaned the cases (using JIF and soap) and used a brush to get rid of fine black "dust". I suspect that the original owner was a smoker. Drive #2 had broken and cracked support pillars. The switch was bent up - quite a feat if you know the size of the 3 pins of this switch, as was the LED. The LED bent back, but the switch didn't. The tab to open the drive was completely stuck, as it was clear that the drive had been hit hard on the front. The brown front plastic surround was cracked and pieces broken off in the bottom left corner. Much later I also noticed that the front of the mech was also cracked. To his credit the seller refunded the money for drive #2 without me even asking. He was also selling a bare mechanism, and having communicated with him it sounded like this was due to him having to replace another drive (for a different buyer) which must also have been broken in the post (I assume that he must have had to replace the plastic case leaving him with a spare mech). I removed both mechs and used a multimeter and scope to check the power supplies. Both drives checked out OK and the 5V looked very clean. The 6507 clocks for both drives were good and RSTB was working correctly. What surprised me was that for both drives the address lines were not toggling. This puzzled me as if the firmware was not seeing the mech I would have thought that the code would end up in a tight "error" loop so giving some 6507 address line toggling. I surmised that the CPUs have executed some bad opcodes which crashed the CPUs, possibly due to back RAM used for the stack. So I then started a more thorough examination. I will post more later, so those that are not interested do not have to wade through a long initial posting.
  9. I have two extra 1050 drives I would like to sell because I have one now with a Happy enhancement. I bought both of these from eBay listed as untested for parts or repair. One turned out to work and the other I repaired. The one I repaired has a new pressure pad and 74LS74 chip. Both have been tested using the 1050 diagnostics program as well as testing formatting, writing, reading disks. Tested reading disks formatted with other drives, so alignment should be good. Asking $70 plus shipping for each. I have the shield off the one I worked on. I could install a Happy enhancement in it before putting it back together for an extra $45. If bought as is, I will reinstall the shield.
  10. Hi there, I have had in the Eighties a special firmware (a patched original) for the 1050. When disks are formatted with these firmware, all disks (single and medium density) were read more faster on any 1050 without trackbuffer (e.g. w/o speedy or happy etc.) than normal. If I remember right, the "trick" was a new sector skew in the format tables. Does anybody have these firmware? If so, please upload. Thanks. Regards, Juergen
  11. Hi all, I would like to start an interest poll for my newest project, a full working replica of the BitWriter 1050 (which also includes the Super Archiver as needed by The BitWriter - of course). What you need to use this PCB: A none modified (i.e. no Happy, no Speedy, no other enhancement) Atari 1050 drive Some solder skills (it´s easy) What´s the goal of using this hardware: You get a Super Archiver 1050 You get a BitWriter 1050 You can copy mostly all copy-protected games for backup or software preservation Reading/Writing/Formatting Double Density Highspeed SIO ... and what´s not: Anything better than a Speedy, a Happy or a MegaSpeedy The top point to use such a solution is to preserve original game disks as wanted by collectors and general software preservation. Of course you will find nearly all games cracked or modified in other ways to run, but it wasn´t the real thing. The BitWriter reads and writes the disks bit by bit, so missing bits, timing issues and other nice copy protection schemes were just copied as they are. The price will be in the range between 40 and 50 euros (or approx. 45 up to 56 US-Dollar) and it´s depending on the amount of orders. Timeline for this offer: Interest poll until the end of February 2016. If you want one (or more), please write it here I check for prices of all parts, calculate the final price and will write it here Payments via PayPal are collected until March, the 15th. 2016 I order the PCBs, all parts and so on Delivery or parts to me and then assembly may take 4-8 weeks depending on several sources and my spare time Shipping to you will be done approx. in the mid of April 2016 Shipping costs for one piece worldwide: 6 euros (registered letter, refund in case of lost or damage max. 30 euros!) 9 euros (insured registered letter, refund in case of lost or damage up to 200 euros) If more than one piece is ordered, the shipping costs will increase a bit If you´ve any questions, please ask. I´m not every day online at AtariAge, it´s always better to write an email to [email protected] instead of sending a PN! Maybe the final delivery will be done earlier as last year with my Sys-Check, but I will give the maximum time first, better to be faster than slower as expected... Many thanks for helping and realizing this project to Guus Assmann and Michael Alers! BR, Jurgen
  12. Anyone got spares in good cosmetic shape and no mechanical issues? Thanks, Roger
  13. hello there! got my 1050 back running with sio2pc and winape so far. off the new users topic got some files and stuff to try and it works. now how could i create custom disks with more than one game on it? how can i see if a game would run as (known from c64) onefiler? do you use or recommend a special DOS for it? or file copier? how should i start? thx
  14. Hardware Legacy engineering USB Atari Joystick, £5 Commodore C64c Power supply. working £8 Commodore 1541 drive, tested+working, no leads £20 Atari 810 drive, boxed, Super Archiver fitted, tested and works great £90 (no PSU) Atari 1050, boxed, tested and working, £35 (no psu) Atari 1050, tested and working £20 Atari XEGS, Boxed, complete with polys etc £70 Sic! cart 4m £12 Atari 2600 light 6'er, tatty box, PSU,games,sticks £30 Sega Megadrive 2, 2 controllers, 3 games £10 Software Antic magazines, on 3 Discs pdf's and .atr's £10 A.N.A.L.O.G.magazines on 2 Discs pdf's and .atr's £10 Kolony 2106 boxed set £10
  15. After many years I finally modded my main 1050 to let it run on an "AT" power supply. I mounted 2 PC-style 4-pin molex connectors in the back of the case so I can daisy-chain the power to other 1050's (not modded yet). When at it I also redid all the ugly wiring (Speedy switches, write protect, etc) and removed the external speed potmeter since I don't use it anymore these days. Seems to work as it should on both AC and DC but when DC powered the on/off switch doesn't work anymore (which is as expected). The only time I need to power it off is when programming the Speedy to disable itself. After that, the only way to re-enable it (reset) is to power off/on. Once I had a doc to add a RESET button to the Atari 1050 but can't find it anymore. The button was meant for stock 1050's and I don't know if it also works on Speedy upgraded 1050's. Anyone have this doc? Or maybe other ways to do a RESET with a button?
  16. Hello all, I'm new to the forum and Atari 8 bit computers. I recently got a 65XE and just yesterday a 1050 drive arrived. After hooking it up I slipped in the the only disk I have on hand (I've ordered a 2.5 dos disk which should arrive soon.) The disk I have is Pac Man for Commodore 64 but on the flip side, there is also an Atari version. Well, when I turned it on and the drive began whirring around I noticed that it squeaked a lot. It began to load the game OK but it seemed that it was taking quite a long time for the game to load. I can see the game information coming up (right before the game proper is loaded up) but that's all I was getting. And all the while the disk is whirring around and squeaking. I noticed that the drive is not going to stop and the game should have been loaded already. So I turned it off to try it again. Now, all I get is BOOT ERROR on the screen. Do I have a dead drive? Also, did I break the disk by putting it in the squeaky drive? I hope this is a simple fix because I have no knowledge of electronics. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
  17. Hi all, this post is intented as a "How To" short manual for all those who have problems with their 1050, specially when using medium/enhanced density or double density (with Happy 1050, Speedy 1050 and so on). I didn´t found this information here at AtariAge, so I want share this. Some people purchased Turbo 1050, Speedy 1050 or the Bitwriter 1050 from me and report problems. In most cases the 1050 drives where the new expansion was built-in weren´t extensively tested before, so the conclusion for the owner was: The new expansion is the culprit. The FDCs (Floppy Disc Controller) 2793 or 2797 used in the 1050 drives needs at some points exact input signals to work properly. These are the 125 KHz rectangled frequency for single density base clock, a 230 microsecond long impulse for precompensation (when using double density, MFM mode) and others. "Modern" FDC like the 1772 (used in the XF551 drive or Atari ST computers) have the needed PLL and synchro circuits built-in and adjusted by the manufacturer. The old FDC 279x need external R/C links to setup the needed frequency and delays. Two problems now appears: - Every FDC has tolerances within. Really EVERY piece. Also when you take two pieces from the same batch, same production week etc. - Every 1050 mainboard may have different manufacturers of the involved capacitors and resistors with their own tolerances What happens now? Sometimes - specially when you buy any used drive from "anywhere" - the pre-owner (or anybody else) has done some "repair" by changing the parts in sockets (FDC, CPU, RAM, ROM, RIOT) and when he´s lucky, the 1050 works. But when the FDC was part of the changed ones, you get a 1050 drive with wrong adjustment. The typical issues: - When the adjustment is absolute out of specs, you can´t successfully format or write to any disk. Reading might be okay - When the adjustment is nok ok, but not totally worse: Formatting and writing a disc with medium/enhanced/double density fails, but single density works - At all cases: You might can write format and write a disc with medium/enhanced/double density flawless, but no other drive can read your formatted discs... So MAYBE your drive need an adjustment. This post doesn´t claim itself as a cure-all, it´s just a possibility. I´ve hat a lot of drives for repair in the last 20 years, where the FDC has changed one time for any reason (and some people change them for a test, but not change them back...) How-To adjust the analogue part for FDC´s frequency setup: - Open 1050, remove drive mechanic - Remove (if necessary) any speeder PCB. You need free access to the FDC and approx 1-2 cm around it - Switch on the drive and let it warm up (chips) for 5 minutes - Warm up your scope - Close TP7 and TP8 with a jumper. This forces the FDC to enter it´s self-test mode. We need this mode to make the signals visible. See the picture below, where I made a square around TP7 and TP8: Now put your scope´s probe to pin 16 of the FDC. When test mode is enabled, this pin shows a square waveform with a frequency of 125 KHz or pulse width of 4 microseconds (uS): If your measurement doesn´t match, use the variable capacitor (marked with "3" in my last picture at the end of this post) to set it to 125 KHz / 4.0 microseconds (uS). --- Next step is pin 29 of the FDC. At this pin you should get a single positive edge with a timeframe of 1.0 microseconds (uS): When your result is different, use the pot marked with "1" in my last picture at the end of this post to adjust this value. --- The last step is specially needed for double density (MFM) operation. Check pin 31 of the FDC, you should get a single positive edge with a length of 230 nanoseconds (nS): To adjust this signal, use the pot marked with "2" in my last picture at the end of this post. That´s all! Don´t forget to remove the jumper crossing TP7 and TP8 (otherwise your drive remains not usable and you´re wondering...). I hope somebody found this useful - at last to be sure that your drive is working with the right setup Jurgen
  18. Hi there Recently reading at past topics on the subject, I was able to learn that although the Atari 1050 disk drive uses an external 9 VAC 31 VA 3.4 A power adaptor, internally the 1050 uses both +5V and +12V. How is this accomplished? Page 1-8 of the Field Service Manual explains: And shows this picture next: Looking at the schematic, I am clear about the +5V part: However, I am not clear on the +12V part: How is this accomplished? I mean, somehow the voltage is raised and fed to that 7812. 7812 datasheet says it should be fed with at least 14.5 volts in order to have +12V. How is the voltage raised from 9V to 14.5 or more? What is that "12V Doubler"? Is this a capacitor? Which one? Please clarify. Thanks in advance, Louis BQ
  19. For a list of things I'm selling: Ebay tag: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fmyworld.ebay.nl%2Fnwe2010 In the coming days, more items will be put online (Magazines, disk games, tape games, utilities etc) currently on auction: - The Action Toolkit cart + disk eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121138716332 - Basic XE cart + disk eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121138714657 - Atari User Magazine Page 6 eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121138725543 - Atari User Magazines eBay Auction -- Item Number: 121138720910 Thanks for looking,
  20. Can anyone (preferably in UK) burn the Atari 1050 US Doubler ROM to a couple of 2732 EPROMs for me? My EasyPro 90B programmer will handle 2764 and up, but doesn't have the juice for 21v EPROMs. Obviously I'll cover carriage, etc. The chips are pre-blanked. PM...
  21. I'm throwing together a "Franken-PC" from older parts with an internal 1.44MB 3.5 floppy drive for archiving and/or creating floppy disks for my recently acquired 4MB 1040STE. As documented HERE. This made me think... Besides the popular 1050-2-PC process (SIO2PC interface attached to a Atari floppy drive), is there software out there similar to the ST world's FloImg that can make use of a PC with an internal 1.2MB 5.25" floppy for creating/archiving Atari 8-bit disks? Lump
  22. Hi, I just got a large box of floppies and a 1050 drive. While trying to load the disks, some work, some don't some kind of work. For example - Loderunner loads up, but the screen is reddish and all of the graphics are scrambled - this floppy is a copy, so that may be it. Forbidden forest starts to load and then hangs - this is a factory disk that states 'for all atari computers'. Some of the disks are labeled 130xe, but most just have a user printed label with the game name. The Ultima I disk (copy) has 'needs fix XL' written on it, and Ultima II or III won't load all the way either. Epyx Dragonriders of Pern doesn't finish loading (original). I've tried 2 different working drives and 2 different working 800XL's. Is there a way to check which system these games are supposed to be used on? Thanks!
  23. So the belt keeps falling off my 1050. I used to have to take it apart about once a month and put it back on, but now that I got an sio2pc its getting a lot more use. Now I got to put it back on about every other day. The belt seems good to me its a tight fit not really any stretch to it. I think the flywheel may have a little lean to it that causes the belt to slowly walk off. The big fly wheel that it turns has no lip to keep it on. I was wondering how common of a problem this is. I'm considering cutting a circle slightly larger then the flywheel (plastic, maybe cardboard) and gluing it to the bottom of the flywheel this would give it a lip to hold the belt on. I thought I'd consult the gurus of atariage before attempting this in case this is a very bad idea. Perhaps it would throw off the balance in some way and kill the drive. My 1050 works great otherwise just getting sick of opening it up every couple days.
  24. Hi everyone, I'm new here but have had my Atari 800 since I was a little kid in the 80's. I've kept all my stuff all these years because I don't like throwing things away, plus I still have an app I wrote in 6502 assembly that started my career. I'm a full-time Software Engineer who's seen a fair bit of the world writing apps and utilities. One job led me to Microsoft in California where I believe I lived right across the street from where Atari was based. It's condo's now :-( I'm wondering if someone can help me restore some files I have on some floppy disks. In particular, I need help recovering an app I wrote in MAC65. I don't remember how to use MAC65 and even if I did, it crashes a lot. When I try to run the app I wrote, I get an error that the disk is write protected but it's not. My 1050 has a switch I installed on it long ago that would let me copy disks, but it's broken now and I don't remember what exactly it does or how to use it. Can someone make a cable for me so I can get the files off the floppies and into my Mac or PC? I'm in Toronto, Canada. -greg-
  25. Hi everyone. I'm new here and plan to stay. The name is Jim. I Just got back into Atari 8 bit a year ago. I have a question to start with here that goes all the way back to the 80s. I've had a half dozen or so 1050 drives. The first one I got almost brand new back in the 80s. It had a latch door that closed a few degrees past 180. I ended up giving that drive along with my entire collection away a few years later. When I got back into this a year ago, I got another couple 1050 drives. One of them had a latch door that stopped at 180 degrees exactly. The other stopped a few degrees past 180. Just like the one I had before. They both have about 90 degrees or so of travel and have different labels on the bottom and the insides are slightly different. The case tops are not interchangeable. They are identical on the outside except for the labels on the bottom and the latch doors closing at slightly different degrees. Can anyone explain this? Is one version newer than the other? Does the latch door closing a few degrees past 180 matter? I've always wondered about this. Jim U
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