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  1. Hi all, just want to announce that I´ve made a new replica for the Atari 1050 diskdrive, it´s The Mini Super Speedy 1050! This is an updated version of my MiniSpeedy 1050 with Super-Speedy functionality. You get all the features from the well-known Mini-Speedy 1050 with the additional feature to copy whole discs in less than 40 seconds (format, write, verify)! The Super-Speedy includes a 256 KByte buffer which holds the complete single density, enhanced/medium density or double density disc read before. Because the data must not transferred through the bottleneck SIO buss, one complete double density disc will be read in approx 10 seconds or less. Once loaded into the internal memory, you can create as much copies you want. Maximum time for writing a full double density disk with format and verify is 40 seconds. The special copy tool for using the Super Speedy function will be booted with open disc lever and the 1050 set as D1: into your Atari computer. Further the computer is only used as a terminal, all read and write accesses will be done by the 1050 itself. Without booting the copy tool, the Super-Speedy acts like any other Speedy 1050, too. It has the firmware V1.7 and runs fine with NTSC, too! By default (see the red jumper) the Super-Speedy firmware is active. When the jumper is removed, the standard Mini-Speedy V1.7 firmware with HSS copier is active. I patched the HSS copier to english language. Of course it also runs fine with NTSC systems. Find the installation instructions here: http://www.van-radecke.de/MiniSpeedy/MiniSuperSpeedy1050.pdf I´ve made a little video (made with cell phone, please excuse the quality) copying one double density disc with the Super Speedy: http://www.van-radecke.de/MiniSpeedy/MiniSuperSpeedy_copy_in_action.mp4 When using NTSC, you will see the timer more increasing, the reason is the 60 Hz vertical frequency, which is used for the timer. So real time needed is approx 30-33 seconds for a full double density disc to write (format & verify), but when done with a NTSC system, it will show up to 40 seconds, but uses only 30-33 ? Mini Super Speedy 1050 is availible in 2-3 weeks. See my linked document in the signature below for more informations! Jurgen
  2. Hi everyone, I got this drive a couple of days ago, I always open them up before powering them up, and this one has a loose wire (the white one, in the second photo). I'm pretty sure it's part of a switch+light front panel assembly, and is part of the write-protect circuit, but I have no idea where it should go/be re-attached to. It comes from the J11 pins (on the underside of the PCB), which is in the schematic on Page 5-4 of the 1050 FSM (right page, bottom left corner of https://archive.org/details/1050FSMRebuiltAKH/page/n63/mode/2up). Can anyone take a stab at where I should try and reattach it? The wiring is a bit ropey, and it kind of looks like the wires are shorting on the underside anyway, though I'm not sure if the circuit has been altered as it's also connected to a resistor at the front of the PCB near the power switch (which has also seen better days). I'm quite reluctant to power it up as is, but I'm also a bit out of my depth on how to fix it. Incidentally, the advert (on Ebay, from a seller in Belgium) showed it working/powered up. Also guessing it's a Happy clone board, but waiting to fix the wire before testing it. Any help would be appreciated!
  3. Hey. Some weeks ago i got a 1050 drive with LED display mounted on front panel. I've foud that is an early (?) version of Happy Warp , and I decided to recreate the schematic. You can find the oryginal topic, pictures, rom, schematic etc here: http://www.atari.org...ic.php?id=11300 The eprom is marked HAPPY 3 Can anyone recognize this version? eprom: hw_V3.bin The drive is not working, someone was trying to repair it but with no luck, now is my turn
  4. Hi, I´ve made some more new pieces of my (mostly in germany) well-known expansions. If you´re interested, please find all informations below (end of this post)! 512 KB SRAM memory expansion for all Atari XL/XE and XEGS This small PCB (only 5 x 5 cm) enables your Atari XL/XE to watch the newest demos or play the actual homebrew games which requires often more than the 64 KB main memory of the machine. My solution don´t need the drill holes for switches, it´s software configured. After power on, the 512 KB "RAMBO" mode is active. This mode should fit all your needs in 99% of all use cases. For some rare programs you can switch to 256 KB Compy-Shop mode (with seperated ANTIC and CPU access) or switch the whole expansion off. These setting remains active until you power off the computer, a coldstart without power cycling won´t change the setting anyway. The ANTIC needs to desoldered, if it´s not already in a socket. Also the MMU. Just three wires must be soldered, a prepared cable for that is included. This SRAM based 512 KB memory expansion works in all Atari XL, XE and XEGS computers. Mini-Speedy 1050 for the Atari 1050 diskdrive This small PCB sizes only 5 x 5 cm and it´s installation is absolute solderfree. Just remove two chips, cut of four capacitors and plug in the Mini-Speedy 1050 PCB - that´s all! The Mini-Speedy 1050 offers the following features: 1. Highspeed SIO transfer up to approx 76000 bps 2. Real Double Density (180k each disk, 256 bytes per sector) 3. Flawless 8 KByte track buffer with highspeed write by default 4. Works with all known Highspeed SIO routines and any DOS 5. Built-in (just boot your 1050 with open disk lever!) Highspeed-Copy-Program or BiboDOS (needs seperate switch for changing Speedy O.S. selection). Turbo 1050 Replica for the Atari 1050 diskdrive The Turbo 1050, made by B. Engl, is one of the "freakiest" products I know. Just using an EPROM, a GAL (logic chip) and some parts around the Turbo 1050 is a very cool floppy enhancement for the Atari 1050 diskdrive. The power is in the software only! No track buffer, no additional RAM, no CPU with bigger address space. On the other hand, Turbo 1050 can copy more protected games like any Happy 1050! A short brief about the features: 1. Enables Double Density (180k per disk, 256 bytes per sector) 2. Enables Highspeed-SIO up to 70000 bps 3. Has built-in "BackUp Machine" for copying protected disks 4. Parallel port printer interface (not included in this replica) Due to the fact that the Turbo 1050 hasn´t any track buffer the Highspeed-SIO is always used, but really effective only when the disk to be used was formatted using the Turbo 1050. The Turbo 1050 formats disks with a special interleaving, so that these disks can be read at the same speed like all other floppy enhancements with track buffer. How to order You don´t need to show interest - these products are already developed and built, I have some at stock. Please load the following PDF file: http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf If this link won´t work, try this one (same content): https://c.gmx.net/@334647219317637459/l5-Q6dQOQl-nheYIoit9ZQ This PDF file will be regulary updated! So you don´t need to ask "Is there any left?" - just download the file and look to page 2 This "catalogue" also includes my other solutions. Jurgen
  5. Hi all, this post is intented as a "How To" short manual for all those who have problems with their 1050, specially when using medium/enhanced density or double density (with Happy 1050, Speedy 1050 and so on). I didn´t found this information here at AtariAge, so I want share this. Some people purchased Turbo 1050, Speedy 1050 or the Bitwriter 1050 from me and report problems. In most cases the 1050 drives where the new expansion was built-in weren´t extensively tested before, so the conclusion for the owner was: The new expansion is the culprit. The FDCs (Floppy Disc Controller) 2793 or 2797 used in the 1050 drives needs at some points exact input signals to work properly. These are the 125 KHz rectangled frequency for single density base clock, a 230 microsecond long impulse for precompensation (when using double density, MFM mode) and others. "Modern" FDC like the 1772 (used in the XF551 drive or Atari ST computers) have the needed PLL and synchro circuits built-in and adjusted by the manufacturer. The old FDC 279x need external R/C links to setup the needed frequency and delays. Two problems now appears: - Every FDC has tolerances within. Really EVERY piece. Also when you take two pieces from the same batch, same production week etc. - Every 1050 mainboard may have different manufacturers of the involved capacitors and resistors with their own tolerances What happens now? Sometimes - specially when you buy any used drive from "anywhere" - the pre-owner (or anybody else) has done some "repair" by changing the parts in sockets (FDC, CPU, RAM, ROM, RIOT) and when he´s lucky, the 1050 works. But when the FDC was part of the changed ones, you get a 1050 drive with wrong adjustment. The typical issues: - When the adjustment is absolute out of specs, you can´t successfully format or write to any disk. Reading might be okay - When the adjustment is nok ok, but not totally worse: Formatting and writing a disc with medium/enhanced/double density fails, but single density works - At all cases: You might can write format and write a disc with medium/enhanced/double density flawless, but no other drive can read your formatted discs... So MAYBE your drive need an adjustment. This post doesn´t claim itself as a cure-all, it´s just a possibility. I´ve hat a lot of drives for repair in the last 20 years, where the FDC has changed one time for any reason (and some people change them for a test, but not change them back...) How-To adjust the analogue part for FDC´s frequency setup: - Open 1050, remove drive mechanic - Remove (if necessary) any speeder PCB. You need free access to the FDC and approx 1-2 cm around it - Switch on the drive and let it warm up (chips) for 5 minutes - Warm up your scope - Close TP7 and TP8 with a jumper. This forces the FDC to enter it´s self-test mode. We need this mode to make the signals visible. See the picture below, where I made a square around TP7 and TP8: Now put your scope´s probe to pin 16 of the FDC. When test mode is enabled, this pin shows a square waveform with a frequency of 125 KHz or pulse width of 4 microseconds (uS): If your measurement doesn´t match, use the variable capacitor (marked with "3" in my last picture at the end of this post) to set it to 125 KHz / 4.0 microseconds (uS). --- Next step is pin 29 of the FDC. At this pin you should get a single positive edge with a timeframe of 1.0 microseconds (uS): When your result is different, use the pot marked with "1" in my last picture at the end of this post to adjust this value. --- The last step is specially needed for double density (MFM) operation. Check pin 31 of the FDC, you should get a single positive edge with a length of 230 nanoseconds (nS): To adjust this signal, use the pot marked with "2" in my last picture at the end of this post. That´s all! Don´t forget to remove the jumper crossing TP7 and TP8 (otherwise your drive remains not usable and you´re wondering...). I hope somebody found this useful - at last to be sure that your drive is working with the right setup Jurgen
  6. I was given an Atari 1050 floppy drive at some point, and with it came some software. One of those items of software allowed me to take several Atari tape-based games, load them in, and then save and convert them into a version that was loadable from floppy. This was mostly a godsend, as I didn't need to load from tape those particular games anymore, and it would always load fast and reliably from floppy. The problem with the software was that it didn't work with custom tape loaders or multi-part tape loaders, I was stuck there. I cannot for the life of me remember what the software I used was named, or if there were others of its kind out there that could deal with all tape games. However, if anyone has experience of software like this, could they provide details and even screenshots if possible?
  7. I just got a 1050 drive off ebay. I came with the wrong power supply so I have one of those on the way now. I cracked open the drive to see what kind of mess I purchased and I found the ram and rom with a silver sticker one labeled doubler, and the other speed. I removed the stickers to see what was underneath and it appears to be the stock parts. Anyone seen anything like this? Did someone get conned in the past? The stickers were very old and the silver part just crumbled.
  8. Hello everyone! I'm new here. I finally have a space where I can pull out my old 800xl and 1050 drive to set up a retro computer area. With the exception of a few corrupted disks, everything is surprisingly in good order. I put things on hold until I get the replacement power cord for the 800xl. From what I understand, the "ingot" PSU I have is a potential MB killer. It seemed like a good idea to update the PSU for the other devices I have, including the 1050 drive. But after scouring the various forums, it sounds to me as if I should just let things be if they're working. Would everyone agree? Is it just the 5V power source that can potentially fry components? Thanks in advance!
  9. Okay let's start. What do you guys think should I even try to fix this 1050 vintage floppy drive if needed. Note: I do need power supply and SIO cable for testing first. eBay special - Atari 1050 vintage floppy drive - for parts UNTESTED
  10. Hello Community, Through this channel, someone will know where I can get the replacement for this engine below: LC-177E COPAL I leave photography for reference. The only site that has that replacement, my PayPal account does not accept me to buy it. Link: http://nnelectronic.com/product.php?ProductID=213992 Stay tuned.
  11. Hi - I have a Singapore 1050 with a Tandom drive mech. I have determined the stepper motor is siezed-up. It is impossible to move the drive head assembly forward or backward unless I remove the tiny screw that attaches to the metal band that normally allows the stepper motor to move the head assembly. With the tiny screw removed I can move the head assembly back and forth. This allowed me to carefully lubricate the rails, so movement is pretty easy now. However, reattaching the tiny screw holding the band to the stepper motor and it is impossible to move the head assembly again. In all my other 1050s I can manually move the head assembly pretty easy. Doing so obviously also manually rotated the stepper motor back and forth too. Questions: 1) Can the seized-up stepper motor be replaced? 2) If yes is there a source for new stepper motors other than scavenging from another similar drive? 3) Other ideas for troubleshooting and repair. 4) This is the first seized stepper motor I have encountered. Is this a rare failure? Thanks!!
  12. For Sale: I have multiple good, working 1010 tape drives and 1050 disk drives for the Atari 8bits. All come with good working SIO cables and power supplies. $45 for 1010s and $85 for 1050s + you pay actual shipping (to U.S. lower 48 only). Please PM me if interested. I would be willing to add some 'best off' diskettes full of auto-boot/auto-menu games for $4 dollars per diskette. I also have a few cassette games/programs for sale including all of the 'Learn a language' series: French, Spanish, Italian and German. You have not lived until you make your kids (or grand kids) sit through a cassette load of a game on your 8bit!!! It's a bit of history everyone should experience!! The pictures are of one of the 1010s and 1050s. When you PM me I will send you specific pictures of the exact device you will get. I test all these prior to shipping. With the 1050s I open them, clean out the dust, clean the read/write heads with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol, clean and lubricate the rails for smooth operation. I make sure I can boot DOS from the drive, read/write and format a diskette. I pack them safely. With the 1010s if they are working I don't touch them other than cleaning the outsides a bit including cleaning the tape heads. If they are not working, I replace some or all of the belts to get them working. If you want an original 1050 box (in poor shape) and original foam packing, let me know. I have at least 3 sets. Same for 1010s. I have several original boxes (poor shape) with original foam packing. Thanks for looking!! -dan
  13. Hi Everyone. Are there shrink-wrapped new hardware solutions on the market that do the job of a 600/800XL? And a 1050 disk drive? I have heaps of cartridges & 5.25" games which I can't use now as my 600XL & 1050 are both dead. I am not a hardware literate so I can't do maintenance on these. I was vaguely interested in the Brewing Academy's 1088XEL/XLD options, but they offer a heap of hardware options which I can't navigate. I also can't find in Australia any second-hand 600/800XLs for sale. Any help would be appreciated. cheers, Jonathan
  14. I received and cleaned-up a 1050 and XF551 today. Blew out the dust bunnies, lubricated the rails, cleaned the drive heads, gave the cases a bath, etc. Using a known good power supply and SIO cable I went to testing these one at a time. I could not get either one to boot from a DOS disk so I switched to a cartridge based DOS. I could not get either to read a disk so I tried to format a disk. Both drives set off to format, I hear the head stepping, I hear a write or two, long seek, more stepping, then both throw an error 144 ‘Device Done Error’ the bits of the error description that may apply are: ‘unable to read or write the requested sector’ OR caused ‘by variations in drive motor speed’ It seems so odd to me that both drives have such similar issues. Both were in their original foam and boxes but had likely been stored in hot and likely damp locations. Thanks in advance for troubleshooting advice and order of things to try.
  15. I pulled out of storage some Atari data disks formatted with DOS 2.5. The first few times I accessed the disks on my 800XL/1050 combo I was able to perform a directory listing and open any data files (print to screen). For some reason I now cannot access anything on these disks. No file list, nothing. I sometimes get an Error 138 when trying to read the directory on one of these disks with MyDos. I can access many other disks with no problem. I tried using Copymate to preform a sector copy, but it found no data. Any ideas what's going on here or what else I can try?
  16. Years ago I picked up a second 1050 drive, in my original drive bit the dust. I haven't used either in years, but spent time this weekend setting up my 800XL and 1050 drive. I found the second drive, and had completely forgot it was modded: there are two switches mounted on the front. I opened it up to see if I could tell what it was, but I have no clue. I didn't take the drive mechanism out to see what might be on the main board. The switches are connected to a small board, which has wires going to the back of the unit (see pics...middle pic, the connector on the left) and another set of wires going underneath the drive mechanism. I don't know what those are connected to. Anyone know what those switches are used for? The drive works...I was able to boot off a dos disk, as well as a program disk. I haven't touched the switches, though. Pics aattached. Thanks.
  17. I recently aquired an Atari 1050 drive with a Happy Upgrade (genuine). I tried to run 1050 diagnostic software against it, but that doesn't work. I don't have any Happy software for this, and I'm 'green' when it comes to the Happy drive enhancements. If someone could point me to an .atr, .atx, or .scp of 1050 happy diagnostic software, I want to check RPM, track zero sensor, etc.... as out of my stack of test floppies, it has a problem with a few of them that other drives don't. I have other questions as well: Are there different versions of the firmware ? If so, can I upgrade by burning an EPROM and replacing the existing ROM on the Happy board ? If so, which ROM should I use and where can it be found ? What version of the software should I use, and where is a good place to get .atr, .atx, .scp, etc of the software for this drive ? Thanks.
  18. Does anyone know where i can buy a torsion spring for the read/write head of my LDW Super 2000 disk drive? I obtained the drive as spares/repair and it did not come with one, nor the top half of the head. I managed to 3d print the head part but I still need a spring. Although the LDW uses a Roctec mech, the 1050 spring should work but I dont want to cannibalise a working 1050. Many thanks for any help!
  19. Hi, I found several topics on disk drive modifications, alternative roms, etc. and the Atari 8-bit FAQ mentions several mods for the 1050, but nothing in one place. Here's an attempt to gather that info in one thread. I have several 1050s in my possession, of which some have been modded by their previous owners. Previous attempts at consolidating information regarding 1050 drives I could find are: Let me start with a mod I found in two 1050 drives in my collection. It seems to be a happy clone, which probably originated in Germany, judging by the text on the board. The happy companion disk 7.1 recognizes the modded drive as 'happy'. ROM: rom.d2 I dumped the ROM using @E474's DUMP1050 tool, which can be found here: https://github.com/e474/DUMP1050/ ctab.d2
  20. Greetings! I've got a small lot of Atari drives that I'm selling. Atari 1050s: Two that are complete, one that is just the board. They all power up, but two won't read disks. There is a drive for the board, but the cable to the read head is severed. Atari 810s: Two that are in good physical condition and one that was disassembled (and a couple of cracks in the body/case). Like the 1050's they power up, but haven't read a disk since our move. All drive power up, and the disk does the initial spin. Drives attempt to read the disks, but eventually fail (disk read error). Most have power supplies included (or not, your choice). Price - $20 each or make offer. You can choose all or some. Will work a deal for for multiple drives or the lot. Available to local, or anyone willing to pay the shipping and some packing materials. Shipping from North Carolina, 28078. I'll get pictures up and post them soon. If there's no interest here, I will post on eBay next. Poe
  21. There was a recent thread that mentioned that there were two different top shells for the 1050 floppy drive. As it happens, I just came across a box with an 800 & two 1050s. They were pretty dirty, so I disassembled everything to clean them. The two 1050s had different top cases, so I thought that I would take some pics of the differences and post them here. Here you can see that the front edge has different interlocks that go to the front frame. You can also see that the hold-down post (center left) that presses on the drive mechanism is in a different location and is a different height. The one on the left presses on the aluminum drive casting, and the shorter one on the right presses on the shaped sheet metal closer to the front. The rubber bumpers are different between them as well. The ones on the right seem to be just rubber "bump-on feet". This shows a closeup of the left top shell and the front bezel. You can see that the interlocks are like loops, with simple projections on the top shell. Here is the closeup of the right shell. You can see that the bezel has groups of three "finger hooks" to hook onto beefier projections on the top shell. Some of the top shell has been cut back where a (probably write protect) switch was added. There was also a small plastic hook on the bottom right (top left in pic) of the bezel, which broke off. I'll probably CA it back on. The other bezel doesn't have this hook, and both bottom shells have the tab for the hook (bottom shells are same part #). This one also has plastic ridges on either side of the drive opening that the one above doesn't have.
  22. Hi, recently bought a 1050 where a Happy-Clone from IRATA (Berlin Germany) is installed. It also runs flawlessly, only it has a few more contact surfaces (see picture), and I can not find ANYWHERE documents. So I wanted to know if any of you still have information about it (Schematics, Switches like "Speed on/off" a.s.o.) It is also recognized by Happy-Tooldisk 1 as Happy, and the tests run completely, except for ROM positive - But I had the same with another Happy-Clone that it hooked right there, which is also logical, because the values of the EPROM are not 100% those of the origin. I just want to know what else I can do with it, that is, what else I can connect and above all where on the PINS. And important : What features are included? tya for reading ?
  23. So I have a 1050 that functions reads writes & formats for regular use perfectly fine otherwise when in use, but I noticed it fails the Track 00 sensor test in the 1050 diagnostics software. I read in a previous post by @phaeron : "...the track 0 sensor also activates on track 0.5 (!). This is documented in the Tandon manual and required for the Indus GT track 0 sensor adjustment test to pass." https://atariage.com/forums/topic/256683-altirra-280-released/page/10/?tab=comments#comment-3643388 So the sensor is working, but I presume this means I need to adjust it. This issue is new to me, but it looks like it's just 2 screws to loosen to allow the sensor block to move until the diagnostics software likes it? Anyone else seen/adjusted this before?
  24. I know that there are a few other threads on 1050 disk drive repair, so I hope I am forgiven for starting a new one. Hopefully some of my techniques might help others. Back in November a bunch of Atari 8 bit stuff was put on Ebay UK by a seller - "ginger_colin". It was all "buy it now" and most items were "for parts or not working", even though for the computer systems he showed the computer as operational in the pictures. Someone grabbed a bargain Atari 800 for less than £100. A number of items sounded like they needed a clean. I bought a 1050 for £30, then a day or so later bought a second for £35. I bought the first to use the case for an Atari related project which I started back in 2000, but then the second just seemed too good a bargain to pass up. The second drive was badly protected (hardly any bubble wrap) and when I took the drive apart it was clear that it had taken quite a hit during delivery. I powered up drive #1, but it was completely dead. I powered up drive #2 (the damaged one) and switching on and off several times, it operated the drive once only. So I knew that I had a repair project on my hands. I took both drives apart and cleaned the cases (using JIF and soap) and used a brush to get rid of fine black "dust". I suspect that the original owner was a smoker. Drive #2 had broken and cracked support pillars. The switch was bent up - quite a feat if you know the size of the 3 pins of this switch, as was the LED. The LED bent back, but the switch didn't. The tab to open the drive was completely stuck, as it was clear that the drive had been hit hard on the front. The brown front plastic surround was cracked and pieces broken off in the bottom left corner. Much later I also noticed that the front of the mech was also cracked. To his credit the seller refunded the money for drive #2 without me even asking. He was also selling a bare mechanism, and having communicated with him it sounded like this was due to him having to replace another drive (for a different buyer) which must also have been broken in the post (I assume that he must have had to replace the plastic case leaving him with a spare mech). I removed both mechs and used a multimeter and scope to check the power supplies. Both drives checked out OK and the 5V looked very clean. The 6507 clocks for both drives were good and RSTB was working correctly. What surprised me was that for both drives the address lines were not toggling. This puzzled me as if the firmware was not seeing the mech I would have thought that the code would end up in a tight "error" loop so giving some 6507 address line toggling. I surmised that the CPUs have executed some bad opcodes which crashed the CPUs, possibly due to back RAM used for the stack. So I then started a more thorough examination. I will post more later, so those that are not interested do not have to wade through a long initial posting.
  25. I recently purchased a 1050 Disk Drive that came with a "BESTEK" DC 18-19.5V 3.61A positive-tip power adapter, and was told it would work. I don't know, so I thought I'd check here first before I "try and see." Is this safe to use? If so, would you consider it a better or worse choice than the original equipment 9VAC adapter? Thanks in advance. Cheers friends!
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