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Today I was brave and after viewing tons of safety videos and obtaining 'overkill' protection (funny word for working on CRTs), I recapped my entire Commodore 1702 monitor. It sat for over a year but I still had gloves and boots, discharged, etc. I have more to do, but before I plug in for smoke tests, I hope to share pics and discuss some potential weak points. When I got the 1702 in a lot sale, it 'worked' but I heard some scary periodic power arcing and turned it off. There was a small burning smell and I waited about a year, thinking something fried. In that time, I learned the basic mechanics of a CRT, and opened my 1702 today. After recapping, my paper plate of old caps had leaking liquid but it is hard to determine which one(s) were the culprits. I hope all caps being replaced will fix any previous problems. I air sprayed the mainboard and all daughter boards and then washed all with Electronics cleaner. I will likely isoprop any white residue the cleaner left and hope to get this back up and running. *Interestingly, Commodore made an error on the silkscreen on some 1702s at capacitor C101 (like mine) as documented by Console5: https://console5.com/store/commodore-1702-cap-kit.html and their wiki: https://console5.com/wiki/Commodore_1702 where I printed my checklist and maps from. All PCBs look like the business end is only on the bottom. Questions: Should I replace anything other than the caps? Voltage regulators? What caused the arcing before? bad caps? The power switch is solid. Should I RGB mod? Replace the power cord to one with a ground? I will do a multi-meter continuity test on all fuses. Also, I may have cracked or lifted three traces/pads so advice on my repair plans is appreciated: Mainboard Problems: C201 (10uF 16v)- Negative pad lifting C204 (3.3uF 50v) - Bipolar (BP) lifting on one leg C603 (10uF 50v) - lifting pad Power Board: C905 (100uF 25v) - NOTE the red patch wire is for visual reference and can be desoldered easily. Also, I will not plug it back in the wall until I am certain all is well (and it is sealed up!) In some of these intended fixes, the plan is to use a wire if the path between points may contact unintended places. Otherwise, for a straight shot, I like the remaining clipped capacitor legs. Note I have yet to clip the legs on the spots in question so I have visual aid when finishing. Also, how precise should I consider gauge size when I use such short wire runs? My guess is the power board may matter more in this thinking. I do hope this project will fix the arcing issues (please don't be a tube problem itself), and restore this 1702 to day one original glory!
I scored a Commodore 64 1702 monitor today off of Craigslist. It was FILTHY! Got it cleaned up and plugged the Commodore into the front ports and fired it up. Works! So I hop on eBay to purchase one of those Chroma/Luma cables so I can hook it up to the back of the monitor. WAIT! You mean I have an OLD commodore 64 that only has the 5 pin din and it won't work with the Chroma/Luma monitor ports! So tell me, how much better is using those rear ports versus the front ones? Should I try and seek out another "newer" Commodore so I can take advantage of this S-video like quality? And what's the deal with that? Did the C64 monitor come out after the original systems were released?
An Atari 130XE 64KB with a Omnimon XE ROM upgrade for software development. The Omnimon mod is switch select on/off for compatibility. Includes one Wico Commander joystick with the grommet repaired. I am old skool tech from 1990 onward. Cleaned, inspected, works great. Includes 1.5 A power supply brick, not the cheap 1 A. Built in programming BASIC ROM. Includes monitor cable for composite, luma/chroma (best), and mono audio. The case is slightly yellow, but a good candidate for retrobrighting. The 1702 monitor was the best television computer monitor in its class with great color and low dot pitch. Works on Apple, Commodore, Amiga computers. It is also a great regular NTSC television. Ships from 98686 USA 30 lbs Dave 360 nine 8 o 79 eight 4