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Showing results for tags '240p'.
Found 6 results
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Has anyone used this and how is it compared to the retrotink 2x? I see it's a knock off of it. I need it primarily to record C64 games by plugging it in to elgato HD, I play on CRT.
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Resolution comparison from GameBoy (GB) and Game Gear (GG) without zoom (160x144) at 240p. Native. -
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBSnAEN4iSydCEQy7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBSnAEN4iSydCEQy7 Hi, I tried to do the 240p mod but after doing it, I turned the console on, it gets the 3do logo boot screen and then a black screen. I opened up the console again, and I realized the usb mod (the one you get from MNEMO) was not booting at all. Then I put back the stock cd drive and the same problem. I started sweating cold thinking I screwed up so bad the console (after having invested a lot of money on the console and the usb mod) . Finally, I decided to remove the cables off the VP chip.... and the console booted as normal again, and with the usb mod, as before. I am not technician but I wonder what I did so bad? Everyone says this is an easy mod but didn't work for me lol
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Hi guys, I would like to know your experiences with Monitors/Displays for running your TI-99, be it the US version (Composite) or the (European) PAL version using the YPrBr, or via the french RGB modulator RVB PHA 2037. Also I would like to know whether anyone tweaked his US console with a TMS9928A to get YPbBr out of it? It looks to me this is the best video chip to maintain the original desired speed of 60 Hz but getting the video signal via 3 component lines. The official TI branded 10" monitor is nice, I am missing the option to have RGB or YPrBr input. Even though there is supposed to be a PAL Version, that is nowhere to be found. I know about the F18A as video chip alternate with VGA output, I have two at home, however I am aiming for one setup now running the original experience. Sprites look so much more organic if there is Scanlines. In regards to the Monitor, I read a lot about Sony PVM CRT (Sony Professional Video Monitors) being the ideal displays for Retro Gaming since they don't upscale or screw up the video by believing it's interlaced content. Their geometry and quality is supposed to be outstanding. And from watching videos running RGB modded game consoles I can only agree with them. Sony PVM means they were not meant for the Consumer market but for the Professional market and therefore super expensive. Above that level is ever a higher class called Broadcast Video Monitors (Sony BVM). Those have even higher quality standards. Those devices can be feeded via Composite Input but you should aim for YPbrBr or RGB video as Input for those. Here is some example video, there are lots out there, it's kind of hard to capture the quality of those devices since they are from CRT (interlaced) running 60fieldsPerSecond and Youtube has 30fps: People talk a lot about 240p meaning, even though the console renders two fields via it's analog video out ports the content of those two fields match one progressive frame. A lot of TVs/Upscalers treat the ouput wrongly as 480i and starting to process the video with which then the problems starts. BR Klaus -
Resolution comparison from GameBoy (GB) and Game Gear (GG) with zoom x2 (160x144 x2 = 320x288) at 240p. Perfect pixel zoom. The red areas indicate that they are not visible. -
Hello I recently saw the My Life in Gaming episode in which they mention that some Japanese FZ-1 have a A/B switch which toggles between 480i and 240p. Today I opened my FZ-1 to change its BIOS. At this opportunity I discovered that all other Japanese FZ-1 have the necessary elements for the 480i / 240p switch on PCB, yet non-populated. Could somebody with a Japanese FZ-1 and switch make a photo of the PCB part on the back of the console, which makes up the switch? thanks =) With kind regards Ben EDIT: I have a somewhat strange PCB though: It's Japanese but lacks IC340 (where people belief the Kanji are saved; I guess mine has them at a different place)
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