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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
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  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
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  • Cleaning up my 2600
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  • HLO projects
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  1. Last year, I did an internal installation of an Atarivox+ in my 7800. The goals were to have the Atarivox' audio mixed with the console's audio, and to also have a way to turn off the Atarivox if it was interfering with controllers. Both of these were to be accomplished without cutting or drilling the console's case. In the end, it worked out really well, and it's now weird to me whenever I see a 7800 come up from cold and don't hear the, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," greeting at power-on. Where this was especially evident, however, was on my 2600 Jr. The lack of speech and savekey support in certain titles was becoming more and more noticeable by its absence compared to the 7800, so wanting to install an Atarivox in it started to sound increasingly appealing. The only real question was, "will it fit?" There's a lot less room inside of a 2600 Jr. than a 7800 - a lot less. So an Atarivox+ was ordered and the measuring got underway. There were two main goals being shot for: one, find out if it was even possible to physically fit the Atarivox+ in a 2600 Jr. case; two, replicate all of the functionality of the 7800 installation in the Jr. The modifications that this Jr. already had were a UAV, Traco 2-2450 DC-DC converter, and the ribbon cable for the Reset and Select buttons had been replaced with wires and DuPont connectors. Significant modification to the Atarivox+ PCB was also required, and I'd recommend reading through all of this before committing to a course of action. There's plenty of room to screw things up (ask me how I know) even if there's not a lot of elbow room for the installation itself. Please note that the photos in this post are showing what is essentially a Version 1.0 installation - there was a lot that had to be figured out as I went, and there is room for improvement in certain areas. Having said that, suggestions for improvements are certainly welcome Moving on, there are three main components that will be needed: One AtariVox+ Speech Synthesizer One Adafruit 4-channel I2C-safe Bi-directional Logic Level Converter - BSS138 One Miniature Capacitive Touch Switch (these are apparently only sold in pairs; I've yet to see single ones for sale) And, in addition to those, the usual gamut of wires (with DuPont connectors), straight and right-angled 2.54mm pin headers, a pair of 10kΩ resistors, solder, a soldering iron, electrical tape, double-sided tape, etc. Starting off with the capacitive power switch: this was adhered to the underside of the upper case with a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape; placement was between the Reset button and outer wall of the case. It receives +5VDC (red wire) and GND (black wire) from the mainboard and switches +5VDC over the orange wire. Tapping on the case to the right of the Reset button turns the Atarivox off. While it can be turned back on using this method, it's better to power-cycle the machine so that everything comes up in a known state. +5VDC power was taken from TP1, located just below and to the right of the RF output jack; a right-angled pin header was soldered into it. GND was provided from a pair of pads located on the mainboard next to the RF modulator shield. Note that the shield does not have to come off to access them - they're between the shield and edge of the board. Four are located in a small, square cluster, and two right-angled pin headers were installed; the second pin header will be needed later on. One word about the switch: there are jumpers on it that can be changed in order to alter its behaviour. It is strongly recommended against doing this. As it comes out of the box, the jumpers are already set correctly, and changing them may potentially damage the switch, 2600 Jr., or other components. Additionally, the layer of double-sided tape used to hold it in place does not interfere with the ability of the switch to sense a tap - if anything, it cuts the natural sensitivity of the switch down slightly to a more usable level. Moving on to the BSS138 board (Adafruit Level Shifter): This board is used to both power the Atarivox on and off as well as enable or disable the signal lines running from the console's right joystick port to the Atarivox. Vertical pin headers were installed in both rows, with a cut-down pin header bridging the contacts on the underside of the board for the pads marked 'HV' and 'LV'. The same wiring colour scheme was used here for both sides of the board: white, grey, green, and yellow were soldered to pins 1 through 4, respectively, of the right joystick port and connected to the corresponding pins on the HV side of the board; GND was taken from one of the previously-mentioned pads next to the RF modulator while switched +5VDC (orange wire) was connected to the pin marked 'HV' on the PCB. On the LV side of the PCB, the corresponding wires were soldered directly to the same-numbered pins on the Atarivox where the controller jack had been removed. Switched power (the pin marked 'LV') was soldered to pin 8 on the Atarivox; GND was attached to pin 7. Again, a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape was used to adhere the Adafruit Level Shifter to the Junior's PCB. And now for the modifications to the Atarivox+ board: In order to make the Atarivox fit in the space above the RF modulator, a number of modifications were performed to it: The controller jack was removed On either side of the controller jack, the remaining anchor points for the jack were cut away with a Dremel along the white lines outlining the footprints of the anchor points The headphone jack was removed; with this and the controller jack gone, about 15mm of overall length was shaved off. Be careful when removing this one - if it's surface-mounted it'll want to take traces with it Note the white wire coming off of the board from the right side of C1. This is the audio output, and is attached to the most easily-worked location to pick final audio off from Wires with female DuPont connectors on the far end were soldered directly to the PCB in the location where the controller jack had previously been located; this was to keep the height of the installation at a manageable level The controller jack wires were separated into two bundles: one for pins 1-4 (Atarivox data; white, grey, green, and yellow, respectively) and one for pins 7 & 8 (ground (black) and switched power (orange), respectively). Two layers of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape were used to hold it in place, one on the empty space on the 2600 Jr.'s PCB and one completely covering the back of the Atarivox' PCB. This provided both insulation from live components as well as enough clearance to fit the Atarivox just barely over and above them without running into clearance issues with the underside of the top shell. If you are planning on keeping the RF shields in place, it's strongly recommended to put a layer of electrical tape over any shield surfaces that might come into contact with the additional hardware. This essentially means the face of the shield over the RF modulator facing the rear of the console, and the entire rear-facing part of the main RF shield. There's also one side of the main shield that meets the modulator shield at a right angle; that one should be taped over as well. Finally, here's a bird's-eye view of the almost-completed installation: The white audio output wire coming off of the Atarivox from C1 can be seen looping out of the right-hand side of the frame, coming back into view just below the RF modulator. On the section just below the RF modulator, there's a length of heatshrink covering this wire. This is where a 10KΩ resistor was spliced in; another of the same value was spliced in to the audio output (another white wire) from the TIA located just above and to the right of the IC. Be sure to splice the Atarivox' output into the audio wiring after the resistor coming from the TIA's output. Note that the resistors are mandatory: without them, there will be sound from either the TIA or Atarivox (if powered on), but not both. One word about the resistors: after living with the 10KΩ ones for a few days, using ones with a lower resistance is suggested. 6.8KΩ or 4.7KΩ would probably be a better fit, and 2KΩ may also work. While both the Atarivox and Junior audio mix without issue at 10KΩ, the amount of volume that can be obtained from the Atarivox with 10KΩ resistors is about the bare minimum necessary to have a usable mix. At this point, everything's ready for refitting the RF shields (if desired), routing cables, and testing the machine. On powerup, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," should be heard from the display's speakers, and Juno First is recommended to test with since it mixes speech with TIA audio early on in the game; it also displays "Savekey Found" if it's detected at load time. Adjust the Atarivox' volume as necessary and once it's at the preferred level, carefully refit the top case, taking care to not catch any wires between the case halves or the screwposts. Other than replacing the 10KΩ resistors with ones of a lower value, one other change that may be worth making would be to replace the volume pot with one that mounts horizontally rather than vertically. This has the potential to reduce the overall height by a few millimetres, and while that might not sound like much, there are variances in PCBs, case mouldings, the adhesives used, cable routing, etc. that could turn that extra clearance into the difference between a successful fit or a frustrating, semi-finished project. This is something that I wanted to implement from the start, but available time meant that the luxury of being able to order and try out a few different trimpots just wasn't really there. In any event, if you decide to undertake this modification, all the best of luck to you, and please post any questions below
  2. I shared this in my regular retro-gaming discord and someone suggested I post it here... I recently picked up a 2600 Junior for a tenner from ConsoleMad; price reduced because the cartridge interlock tabs were broken. As I researched various fixes for this I noticed all the fixes involved butchering the case in some way. I know a lot of people aren't bothered by that kind of thing but I like to preserve all the hardware I own in as close to original condition as possible - so I came up with this solution. It's just a small 3D printed plate that sits on top of the cartridge slot and releases the mechanism as the original, fragile, tabs would have done. I've stuck it down with double-sided tape so it's completely reversible. I've tested it with Combat, Warlords, Pac-Man, and Breakout and they all work perfectly.
  3. Can i swap riot chip from atari model 2600 jr. to 2600 (4 switch) i have 2 model of atari 2600 jr and 4 switch. But now model 4 switch can not display video. i think to test by solder take out from 2600 jr to 4 switch. i don't know it can replace?
  4. I was thinking of Modding my 2600 JR to output AV video. I did a mod to my JR around a year ago, and i ended up killing my board when i tried changing the jacks on it, and i can't find the original posting for the mod i Did. I saw this AV mod for the JR, and i was wondering how well it worked. https://atariage.com/howto/composite.html I think i remember some people saying the video quality wasn't the best, but I am just looking for something that is reasonably good enough to use. If the link does not work just try googling "atariage 2600 jr av"
  5. Hello, So first a bit of a disclaimer - I am a bit of a noob when it comes to electronics repair et all - my soldering is crap, and I am definitely learning this stuff as I go along - so please pardon what I am certain is going to be apparent ignorance. I have a 2600 jr rev E which is displaying poor colors (screen appears mostly greyscalish/monochromatic with some yellow/green tinting on the sprites. I tried adjusting the color pot, which you can tell is affecting the underlying colors but onscreen the result is just changing the grey levels so the screen still remains mostly monochromatic. Adjusted the RF pot to no effect either. Low hanging fruit (IE assumption on my part) seemed like it might be a bad cap, so I purchased a recap kit from console5 for the JR. Replaced the caps (polarity on the caps is correct) Turned the machine back on, colors were perfect for 1 second, and then it reverted to the same symptoms, only this time with audio distortion as well. Ordering ESR meter from amazon to check caps, but while I wait the two days for prime to deliver, I would love to get the communities input. 1) What should I be checking to troubleshoot this? 2) I have another 2600 jr that works (I haven't opened it yet so not sure what rev the board is) - so I could desolder and swap TIA if that's appropriate (my inclination is to socket the chips as well, my board has all three chips soldered to board - so if there is room, I think I will socket them) 3) This is probably a really dumb question - but I am curious all the same, the Jr cap kits comes with new caps for C20, C26, C27, C29, C37 c26 is obviosuly the big cap @ 2200uF 16v the other four c20, c27, c29, c37 are listed @ 4.7uF 35v in the console5 wiki (https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_2600) That said the kit from console5 only comes with 3 replacement caps instead of four. My particular revision lacks c29 so 3 caps were fine, but are there revisions which have all four caps on them? Or does each board revision have only a combination of three of those four caps? . Thanks Xamfear
  6. I have a 2600 jr motherboard that i broke while trying to update a AV mod i did to it. it still outputs a video signal, although in black and white, and it seems to not want to sync with the TV. also there is no sound, due to a broken Capactor. I live in canada, so US shipping is probably going to be a little more (like 12 bucks us for international) I want $10 for the board. You can make an offer if you want to, although i'm trying to make up for having to buy another one. Also if there is any good AV mods for the JR that are not to complex let me know.
  7. so about a year ago i did a 2600 Jr av mod i found somewhere where you added 3 resistors to some pins on a chip and got composite video out... only problem is i tried adding a set of jacks instead of having a cable hang out... but now the video signal is gone. i spent like 3 hours trying to fix it, but all i get is scrolling white. i can sorta see some of the sprites, but i can't figure out what was going on, and ended up removing the added parts... but now the capacitor for sound lost a leg... so i need a new one of those also. anyone know of the mod i'm talking about, like i said i cant find it again, or at least another one that worked for you? also it does the same thing when RF is connected back.
  8. I have Atari 2600 Jr. PAL-B with Harmony cartridge and standard PAL CRT TV (made 2009). Vast majority of the games (no matter if PAL-50, 60 or NTSC) work 100% but some of them have more or less important issues either with display or graphics: 1. Fatal Run - it is supposed to be a PAL cartridge but look how badly it is synchronized on the real TV.. looks like odd number of scanlines or something wrong with that sort of things 2. Alien 8k - This is I believe a PAL-60 conversion someone made some time ago. The original Alien was NTSC only I think. Sadly, due to some sync problem(?) the display jumps every second or two. I would like to have this game, it is a great Pac Man variant but with that jumping picture... 3. Polaris - The PAL version has messed up credits graphics. It also happens in Stella and seems like not everytime. Don't know why but certainly I would prefer if it did not. The NTSC version seems 100% but colors are obviously off. 4. Spider Fighter - Similar issue to Polaris - the Activision credits messed up. Seems not to be happening in Stella though. Both PAL and NTSC. No other Activion game has this issue. 5. Wabbit - This is an NTSC game and is out of sync with the TV (constantly jumping, flickering). 6. Tomarc The Barbarian - Again, an NTSC game which shows intro screen fine but then completely "blows up" - the only one actually. I can access the TV service menu and there are many values to play with but I don't think any of them will fix the screen issues described above. At least I played a bit with things like Vertical Amp, Shift, even for 60 Hz mode operation, do not remember exactly all of them, and it did not affect the syncing at all. But I do believe that the issues might be fixed in the code because when most of the NTSC (PAL60) games display fine then the problem must be somewhere else. Especially I would like to have a perfectly running Alien 8k and Polaris. If there is somebody who has time and will to help me, I really appreciate that. Thank you.
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