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Found 3 results

  1. Report post #1 Posted June 5 (edited) The first pictured item sold 06/21/22, but don't worry, I have many more (44 to be exact) that are rebuilt, partially rebuilt, or still need rebuilding. They all get the same kind of attention as the one below. Many will be around the $145 price depending on console condition and extra parts needed than average rebuild. I will also have a couple separate listings soon with like new controllers, one which will be modded with the "orange peel" RGB Mod Kit. I was planning on using the 8 pin mini Din connector, but if you are interested and want the 9 Pin for Sega-Genesis II cable connection, message me. This is the listing description for #23 INTV 2609 & Pictures of it: I will include one game, you choose. I bought this "for parts" console. I then disassembled, cleaned, repaired, & tested. It worked, but was dirty and sure it needed some help. Top lower trim piece needed to be removed, cleaned, and new adhesive applied. I installed a fan to blow cool air through holes on the side of the Logic Board to help keep the 3 heat sinked IC Chips to stay cooler as they are very scarce to find and prone to failure. They are becoming rare and hard to find parts these days. It also blows air over the LB to the DC Power Supply to help keep that cool as well. Blows 5CFM of air and is barely audible! The Hand Controllers were fully disassembled and cleaned, Wire harnesses tested for continuity on all wires individually, and tri-fold tracing also measured good. In fact, these Mylar Tri-folds are in excellent condition, close to like new! Look at picture! The Button Spring is lengthened for better response & a dab of silicone to stop plastic wear under disc. Coiled wire harness in very good shape as well. I disassembled the Logic Board case and I was able to restore it as seen in the pictures. The PCB was very pristine in cleanliness inside, as well as all electronic components. I removed Transistor Q1 & Q2, and they tested bad so I replaced with new ones. 10qF electrolytic capacitors which I also pulled and tested and replaced all three of them. New 47qF & 1uF capacitors also replaced. I needed to repair over 200 solder joints as age was not kind to them. 12V DC supply via to the RF Mod was not soldered at all. I then timed crystal clock to 3.579545 MHz with my Oscilloscope. I repaired tracing under reset button. I ALSO added another ground on the 5.65VDC 2-PIN Connector, as is my policy when reworking any Logic Board! Using only the 1 ground on the flimsy ribbon connector is quite a load of work for that single circuit. That connection on Logic Board usually shows signs of over heating on back side of logic board. I always scrape away the "crud" and beef up the solder joint for ground on both sides of Logic Board where Ribbon Wire connects. Ribbon wire is in very good condition as well. I put scotch tape around it to preserve it during rebuild and down the road. Look at pictures. DC Power Supply Board test points did test good, and all electrolytic capacitors were removed from DC Power Supply Board, measured, and charged to see how much voltage leak down occurred in 24 hours. All passed and were reinstalled and all other solder joints were touched up. I put fresh heat sink paste under the 2 voltage regulators. This AC Transformer stays cool, even overnight while plugged in. It is always best though to unplug when not using console. Reassembled and tested several different games & played for an hour or longer at a time to show any potential future problems. Operates great and hopefully for years to come and has a very great picture! I strive to give every unit I rebuild my best effort and an eye for details that I can. I can also rebuild your INTV 2609's or add a Mod Kit (I use the "orange peel board") to one of my 44 consoles or your own. I can also add a fan to help keep those rare IC Chips in the Logic Board cooler and hopefully last longer. ACCEPTABLE VOLTAGE RANGE ACTUAL FOR THIS UNIT #23 TP1: Ground 0.00 VDC TP2: (4.85 to 5.15 VDC) 5.01 VDC TP3: (11.64 to 12.36 VDC) 12.00 VDC TP4: Unregulated 16 VDC (16 to 25 VDC) 23.4 VDC TP5: (-1.95 to -2.25 VDC) -2.16 VDC TP6: Unregulated 12 VDC (11.5 to 12.5 VDC) 11.78 VDC TP6 Loaded: (5.45 to 5.85 VDC) 5.88 VDC AC Pin 1 & 3: (7.6 to 9.4 VAC) 8.94 VAC AC Pin 2 & 3: (7.6 to 9.4 VAC) 8.94 VAC AC Pin 4 & 5: (15.3 to 18.7 VAC) 17.89 VAC
  2. Hello all, If anyone is looking for a flashback controller adapter for the Intellivision model 2609 or similar version, I have some for sale. They are a little more expensive to make than the other adapter so I'll be charging $15 for one and $25 for two. Those prices are including shipping in the US. These adapters do require you to open you machine for installation but it's only 6 screws and then it's plug and play after that. Here are some pictures.
  3. Hi! Guy staying with me found an Intellvision 2609 and some games at the dump, What a rescue! Figure, why not Composite Video Mod it? Well, found this site: wiki.intellivision.us and thought I could use it and remove the rf module, and place the circuit board there. Blank Screen, searching internet and various people have had similar problems removing rf module, and with it in circuit, causes some ghosting. I ain't no professional, but I know enough to be dangerous, and start hacking rf box apart by pulling components off one bit at a time, soldering back on with it disturbed the image. So, things are good, but I screwed up and the image is too bright and washed out. when doing this, do it one part at a time so's one knows what part did the rick or not... :/ Anyway, I created an rf module shunt circuit Intellivision RF Module Shunt Circuit for 2609.pdf I'm not sure what type of zener diode that is, but it's marked B2 5 and a regular diode didn't work on mock up circuit... Also, I included a Filtering Coil, but I don't think it's needed. Also of note, I tried this circuitbut doesn't work :/ (The internet doesn't lie, right?) Also tried that circuit in front of the intellivision wiki one... I also finished a Atari 2600 Composite Video Mod using Ben Hecks Modified or revised circuit... and looked at other circuits and realized that the outputs from these video chips go through a resistor network and feeds into at least one NPN transistor. Maybe the Intellivision Wiki one can be revised or simplified and include a resistor network cutting original traces ... Anyway, TL;DR: I ripped parts out of rf module untill I had this basic circuit. Now got Composite Video with minimal ghosting. Posting results to share with others. Some more shamless pics:
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