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Found 6 results

  1. So my 5200 has apparently given up the ghost and just refuses to turn on. I recall the last time it functioned (about a month ago was when I played it last) it took a couple of tries to get it to turn on, but eventually it worked perfectly fine and I was able to turn it off and on with ease as I switched out games. Now all of the sudden it doesn't want to turn on at all. I have had this 5200 for a few years, and it has worked great otherwise. At the moment I don't have anything to test the power supply itself. But I'm assuming it's the switchbox. When I was trying to turn it on I examined the switchbox after several attempts and noticed it smelled like burning plastic. It wasn't strong, but you could definitely smell it if you held it up to your nose. I took it apart and everything looks good, except for the part where you plug in the actual power supply. The part where you plug the console in - which was where it smelled like burning plastic the most when I examined it - seems okay. Attached are pics of the switchbox, which I have taken out of its shell to look at. As you can see, the part where you plug the power supply into (the black thing, I don't know the name of it) seems rusty and corroded all over. Would this be my problem? Could I take it off the switchboard and clean it up, or would it be best to just buy a new part? Also, what can I use to test out my power supply to make sure that's not what's causing the issue?
  2. Hi. I have a question about the Atari 5200 games library. Are there any game that utilize more than 2 controller at once, using 3 or 4 of the ports on an original 4 port system? If so does anyone have a list of them. Lastly, do any homebrew games utilize this feature? Thanks
  3. OK, I think it's time to start this topic. I almost have everything I need I think. First I want to copy and paste some important information from another thread () just to consolidate it here: Tursi, on 05 Jan 2017 - 04:21 AM, said: Sinphaltimus, on 09 Jan 2017 - 8:28 PM, said: Tursi - "GS* (GROM Select) and ROMG* (ROM Gate). Switching power isn't recommended, although you would need it if you get too many carts on there. (I have no idea how many too many is). The problem is that when you activate power to a chip, it likely won't be a clean transition and can cause the chip to malfunction." Name I/O Use - ---- --- ----------- 1 RESET < Resets the system (active high) 2 GND Signal ground 3 D7 <> Data bus, bit 7 (least significant) 4 CRUCLK* > Inversion of TMS9900 CRUCLOCK pin 5 D6 <> 6 CRUIN < CRU input to TMS9900 7 D5 <> 8 A15 > Address bus, bit 15 / also CRU output bit 9 D4 <> 10 A13 > 11 D3 <> 12 A12 > 13 D2 <> 14 A11 > 15 D1 <> 16 A10 > 17 D0 <> Data bus, bit 0 (most significant) 18 A9 > 19 VCC +5 Volts power supply 20 A8 > 21 GS* > Grom select. Active low is addr in >9800-9FFF 22 A7 > 23 A14 > Address bus, bit 14. Select mode: low=data / high=addr 24 A3 > 25 DBIN > Active high = read memory 26 A6 > 27 GRC > GROM clock: color burst of VDP 9918A 28 A5 > 29 VDD -5 Volts power supply 30 A4 > 31 GR < Active high = GROM ready 32 WE* > Active low = write enable (derived from TMS9900 WE*) 33 VSS 34 ROMG* > Active low if addr in >6000-7FFF 35 GND 36 GND Here's the idea I'm going with. I'm going to mount an edge connector to a large board along with 4 cartridge ports. With 4 carts installed, you should just barely be able to slide a piece of paper between carts. Lined up along one side will be an AV switch box with 4 buttons. The input AV output jacks will be shorted to complete the circuit. Basically, connect RCA plugs with their individual wires soldered together. This way I can splice the GS* (GROM Select) to left audio in and the ROMG* (ROM Gate) to right audio in per 4 inputs. Since I still have the ability to cut more lines (the video jack and the S-Video jack) per button, is there another cut you'd recommend? Like maybe the + &/or -5v? Or no? The finished project will work by simply pressing the 1 button for cart 1 or 2 for cart 2 etc... I'm not at all concerned with the ability to switch carts with the console powered on although it would be nice. That's why I'm wondering about cutting additional lines. Shutting the console off to switch is fine however. I'm really just looking to cut down the wear and tear on the cart port. The 4 cart expander will be connected to the console via cart expander cable. It's a personal project to solve a personal need at low cost. I will document it all with photos and text as I make progress sharing the experience and hopefully have a fully functional 4 port cart expander by the end. Remaining hopeful I will be able to start this coming weekend. This is the exact switch box I plan to use.
  4. Repaired my Switchbox successfully yesterday, new DC jack, new RF jack, socketed a new LM393 and a new 2N3906 transistor. Good (or better) than new 😄
  5. So my 5200 has apparently given up the ghost and just refuses to turn on. I recall the last time it functioned (about a month ago was when I played it last) it took a couple of tries to get it to turn on, but eventually it worked perfectly fine and I was able to turn it off and on with ease as I switched out games. Now all of the sudden it doesn't want to turn on at all. I have had this 5200 for a few years, and it has worked great otherwise. At the moment I don't have anything to test the power supply itself. But I'm assuming it's the switchbox. When I was trying to turn it on I examined the switchbox after several attempts and noticed it smelled like burning plastic. It wasn't strong, but you could definitely smell it if you held it up to your nose. I took it apart and everything looks good, except for the part where you plug in the actual power supply. The part where you plug the console in - which was where it smelled like burning plastic the most when I examined it - seems okay. Attached are pics of the switchbox, which I have taken out of its shell to look at. As you can see, the part where you plug the power supply into (the black thing, I don't know the name of it) seems rusty and corroded all over. Would this be my problem? Could I take it off the switchboard and clean it up, or would it be best to just buy a new part? Also, what can I use to test out my power supply to make sure that's not what's causing the issue?
  6. I, like many Atari collectors have a 4 port Atari 5200. However I bought one with the original box and it has a two port console on the front. Also, the power supply plugs into the back of the console. I do not need the 5200 switch box. What version if the 5200 do I own?
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