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Showing results for tags '4-switch'.
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As there can be some confusion on how to install the UAV into a 4-switch NTSC 2600 console due to the variants that exist, I thought I would try and collate all of the basic information needed for installing the UAV into these model 2600s. While the different revisions do have some slight changes between them, in all cases the area where to get the signals needed for the UAV to work are located in the same basic locations. This is is not a comprehensive guide but more of a quick reference for those that already know how to open up the 2600 and are semi familiar with the layout inside of the 4-switch NTSC consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me in more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 4-switch NTSC consoles come in revisions starting with rev12 and ending up with rev17 that I've seen personally. Meaning there are variants in between but the good news is that there are really only about 3 different layouts for the components between all of these revisions in the area that we are concerned with for the UAV. Look around the top of the main board to see which Revision of the board you have so that you know which of the sections below to refer to for your UAV install. Power, Ground and Audio:- All revisions of the 4-switch NTSC consoles share the same points for power, ground, and audio that can be used for UAV installations. While the top board trace layouts look different in the areas below and the location of the RF output RCA jack is in different spots, the actual points are the same and in the same locations. I've provided pictures that show how this area is on the Rev 12 - 14 and Rev 16 & 17 models below. Revision 12 & 13 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 12 and 13 NTSC consoles is pretty straightforward as the signals are all in a line from the main resistor section just to the right of the TIA chip. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, & Co In are shown below. Revision 14 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 14 NTSC console layout is similar to the earlier revisions with the only change being where you grab the signal for connection 2 to the UAV. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, and Co In are shown below. Revision 16 - 17 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 16 & 17 NTSC consoles have their signals in the same location as the Rev14 show above, with the one change being an extra 820Ω resistor that was added to the board layout that has to be disconnected from the circuit. This resistor is located directly right of the TIA and is marked as R234, although you cannot see the silkscreen indicating this until you lift the resistor out of place. If you do not disable this resistor, you will end up with incorrect color hues on all colors from the UAV that cannot be adjusted out with the color trimmer. You can either clip the leg of the resistor, de-solder it, or remove the resistor completely. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, and Co In are shown in the picture below. The picture shows an alternate location for the S signal, but you can also get it from the same location as the Rev 14 in most cases. UAV output colors appear horribly off kilter? As mentioned in the Rev 16 & 17 section, there is an extra resistor on the main board that has to be disabled. While this resistor doesn't have a dedicated location on the earlier revision 4-switch NTSC consoles, it was sometimes added from the factory and therefore bodged into place. Look the presence of this resistor either on the bottom of the main board attached to pins 6 and 9 of the TIA chip, or possibly soldered on the top component side next to the TIA socket. In these cases, it is easiest to just clip the resistor on one leg to disable it without fully removing it. You might want to add shrink tubing or some other way to insulate the lifted/cut leg of the resistor so it can't short against anything. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
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From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component
My Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console Modded for Composite A/V, S-Video and YPbPr Component using Tim Worthington's (etim's) 2600RGB Mod. with an additional 2600RGB to Component Add-On Board. I'm very happy and pleased with this mod.© Activision Man aka SavyIsJoshoArts
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Is the woodpaneled 4 switch VCS and the Vader compatible?
MemberAtarian posted a topic in Atari 2600
I'm gonna buy a not working wood paneled one for a small amount of money, because it's very rare in my country (Hungary), but you can find a lot of Vaders and Jr.-s. I'm asking you if the case of the Vader and the wood model is the same and could I just put the Vader motherboard into the wood one? -
From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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From the album: Spawnshop's Atari 2600 Collection
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I have an Atari 2600 Darth Vader 4-switch model that's giving me a fuzzy picture. I'm using a gold Radioshack RCA F to coaxial M... Yes I have tried replacing the cable because it seemed quite obvious when I moved the wire the static patterns changed... However I clearly tried using a shielded RCA cable and no improvement; which was weird because the cable I used never gave me a crystal clear picture on my Atari XEGS... Then I tried the 2600 cable on the XE as well to see if it really was the problem... It gave a perfect picture on the console as well... Another thing would be when I plug in a controller into the 2600 and move it around, the static patterns change as well... Any diagnosis?
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Saw this on Craigslist. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/ele/4230901027.html
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