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  1. Hi everybody, for those of you who are not on Facebook Bob and I just wanted to let you all know that we are starting our own, from scratch Atari 5200 Podcast. We want to thank Willie and Arkay for allowing us to have contributed to their podcast. We hope to have our first introductory Episode out by September. We plan to go through all the commercial releases. Anyway that's all for now. Feel free to visit our facebook page.
  2. Just wanted to make a post in which I can share my channel with others. I cover a ton classic consoles, oddball items, as well as newer games. Come check it out! https://www.youtube.com/user/swlovinist
  3. Ages ago I followed the author of Adventure II as he developed the game and posted updates to his site. I always thought one day I'd buy a copy along with a working Atari 5200. At the time I bought a lot of homebrew, especially for the Sega Dreamcast, and Adventure II was at the top of what I was looking forward to. Unfortunately at some point reality hit me: I was never going to be happy owning an actual Atari 5200. I simply hit a point in my life where I just didn't want to store something that big, and I haven't bought a gaming system after the PS3 for this reason save for the Switch... but I digress. When I saw the new Atari console could actually play cartridges from the 7200 as well, for a moment hope welled up that maybe it could play 7200 ones... but no dice. Then the Atari 400 Mini got announced and it supports old games, but alas, not on cartridges. Which inspired me to finally make a post here and ask if the author of Adventure II would ever consider just selling the ROM.
  4. mykgerard

    My 5200 games

    I have 23 of the 69 5200 games. Here they are: 1 Berzerk 2 Blue Print 3 Centipede 4 Countermeasure 5 Defender 6 Galaxian 7 Gyruss 8 Kangaroo 9 Keystone Kapers 10 Missile Command 11 Pac-Man 12 Pengo 13 Pole Position 14 Qix 15 Real Sports Baseball 16 Real Sports Tennis 17 River Raid 18 Robotron 2084 19 Space Dungeon 20 Space Invaders 21 Star Raiders 22 Super Breakout 23 Wizard of Wor
  5. EDIT: Thanks to INTVCruise and Zeptari, I now have manuals for the 5200 Space Shuttle, and the 2600 Atari Video Cube. Many thanks again to the both of you!!! So all I'm still lacking is the 5200 Mario Bros., and the 2600 Tooth Protectors (which I realize is very rare). If anyone out there has either of these instruction manuals (in good shape, with no tears or writing on them), and is willing to let go of them for a reasonable price, please let me know. Thanks so much!!!
  6. Hi! I was told I should post this here in the Atari 5200 forum along with the Marketplace forum. I made a batch of 30 Masterplay Interface clones for fun and practice with KiCad. They are based on the schematic at Dr. Scott M. Baker's website. I won't be making any more. They let you use Genesis controllers to play most of the Atari 5200 library. My own schematic and BOM are posted below. I'm selling them for $60 + shipping. This includes the Masterplay Interface clone, the custom keypad, and the extension cable for the clone. Satisfaction guaranteed. Returns accepted within 14 days. A few notes: - The acrylic top of the clone can be removed with 1.5mm hex bit to access jumpers. Rotate jumpers 90° to change button mapping. - Calibrate x and y axes with a small screw driver through the small holes on top. Games that can't be played with the Masterplay Interface clone: - Missile Command - Super Breakout - Kaboom! - Centipede - QIX works only after cycling the d-pad Thanks for looking! 97914581_PXL_20230204_215846042_TS2.mp4 1134455718_PXL_20230204_220001888_TS3.mp4
  7. I'm working out a sale for most of my vintage CPU collection in order to take advantage of @Albert's sale, support some homebrewers, and support AA. I should have at least $500 to spend, maybe a bit more if I can sell the rest. So, the big question is, what should I buy? I'm interested in 2600/5200/7800 games on, some for each system. Homebrews preferred over hacks. As I know very little about the games, I am likely to order everything most recommended in this thread within my budget. @x=usr(1536) @zylon @GoldLeader @Charlie Cat @jeremiahjt @SlidellMan @Cebus Capucinis You are the users I interact with the most and I'd really value your opinions, when you've the time. Everyone else's opinions would be appreciated as well. Let's all have fun spending my money. I'll finish this thread with an unboxing and I'll show you my wicked terrible gaming. It'll be quite embarrassing. You won't want to miss it.
  8. Looking mostly for broken 5200 and 7800 consoles and controllers, but I will also buy broken 2600s if they come with either of the other two.
  9. I'm mass buying Atari 2600, 5200, 7800. In doing so I've ended up with some cartridges and cassettes for which I do not have a home. I'd like to trade them for most anything 2600, 5200, or 7800. This includes broken things as my students and I will fix them up. I have attached an image of what I have currently. I'm happy to take better pictures on request. I'm willing to part it out for good trades, but I'd love to let it go as a lot. We each pay our own shipping. If anything here is particularly valuable, please drop a reply to let me know. Thanks for reading 😊
  10. A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
  11. This is a scratchpad for some ideas I've had involving how to route audio and video from a CX-55 VCS Adapter in a 5200 with a UAV installed. First order of business: recap the current CX-55 and replace the voltage regulator. The video looks awful. The video looks awful when viewed via the 5200, which has a snow issue over RF that is likely in the modulator. If the modulator's in need of work to improve the 5200's video, then the same will apply to the CX-55's video. Next: build a circuit to power it and pull both audio and composite video directly from its edge connector. Need perfboard, a barrel jack (power), small toggle switch (power), and RCA A/V jacks. Cartridge port connector and A/V cable are already on hand. Everything is THT at 2.54mm. Current-limiting resistor / filter cap / both may be needed. CX-55 cartridge connector pins: 24 Composite Out 25 GND 26 +5VDC 30 Audio Out Alternative ground pins: 12, 13, 14, 23 Unregulated DC on pin 11 Pins 11 & 28 not connected (possible chroma / luma outputs?) Determine if audio / video levels are suitable for use without further amplification.
  12. I originally did most of the work on this 5200 about 8 years ago. It was also one of the first projects I did and to be honest, the wiring work inside wasn't that great. For some time I had wanted to redo it all similar to how I redid my 7800 about a year ago but just never got around to it. Well, now that I have a new BackBit Pro flash cartridge and it was designed to allow resets back to the game menu, I felt it was time to perform a small modification to allow this function of my BackBit Pro to work and also decided it was time to redo the wiring work and give my 5200 a much needed bath. So first I will share some old pics of when I first AV upgraded the console. The wiring wasn't that bad I guess but it was before I was using better quality wire and wasn't using connectors so it was all tethered down. Also, not long after this was first done, the s-video jack kept coming loose on me so I had to hot glue it into place. No pics of that hot snot but suffice to say it was pretty ugly. Here is another shot showing how all the wiring was done originally in this setup. All of the wiring was completely redone with better quality wire and using install methods that I've been using on client consoles for the past 5 years. Some of the wiring was to redo the power and ground wiring as I now have it attached to the main power and ground rails that run along the middle of the board. As a result they are much shorter than they were previously. All the of the video output wiring was redone with a connector added in the middle to allow for easier removal of the main board in the future for servicing if needed. A connector was also added to the power modification wiring on the bottom side as well. A new s-video jack was installed as the original was in pretty bad shape from coming loose over the years and the hot glue just had to go. I used my dremel to rough up the area around the s-video jack and shave off a little bit of shell material so that I could install a new s-video jack and have the back nut actually secure it into place properly. Last to ensure it stays put, some epoxy was added around the s-video jack and securing nut. Audio wiring was redone as well and cleaned up. Finally a small bit of wire was added on the bottom side of the PCB that attaches the reset line for the system to an unused pin on the cartridge port. The BackBit Pro flash cart is designed to take advantage of this and with this wire in place, I can now use the reset button on the cartridge to take me back to the game selection menu. This is a feature that is sorely missing on the AtariMax carts as they require hard powering the 5200 console to get back to your game menu selection. At the end, I finally gave the case shells a much needed bath as it had been at least a decade since this 5200 had been cleaned. It was getting pretty dusty in those vent slots and just looking a bit dull. Now this 5200 is working better than before and ready to provide some more 5200 gaming for many more years! View the full article
  13. Yes, Virginia, a UAV will fit in a CX-55. Disabuse yourself of the previously-held notion that it won't. A/V jacks may be a different matter entirely, so feeding out a cable (round or ribbon) with all of them connected to it may be necessary. This will involve drilling / cutting the case.
  14. A 3D printed cartridge shell for your favorite Atari console - the 5200. Fits Atari PCB or Pixels Past PCB. 5200frontshell_v9d.stl 5200backshell_V9d.stl
  15. I've done a video on something similar to this but here is a rundown on what I was encountering: A 5200 sent in for services had a note stating that top fire button wouldn't work on the console. This is an issue I've run into before and in fact have created a video on it. It can be due to the controller having a broken trace of course on the flex circuit inside it. But... it can also very well be due to a faulty 4052 MUX chip inside the console located at U13 or A13 depending on the age of when your 5200 was made. Well, that was indeed the same issue with this 5200. But after replacing that and confirming the top fire button was now functional again, I then used my port loopback tester board with the diagnostics and was surprised when a slew of other errors came across indicating issues with the keypad. I then used a different program for just testing the controllers and sure enough, whenever you put a controller into port 2 and pressed the pause button, it would call the entire aux buttons to register all at once on both controller 2 and port 1 even though a controller wasn't plugged into port 1?! So that meant Start, Pause, and Reset were all registering at the same time. I later found out that when pressing the 4,5, or 6 buttons that it would also register ever single keypad button in that same column to also register. Obviously that wasn't going to do! In testing the other ports, I found out that port 4 suffered similar issues but only the keypad section was messed up in that pressing 1,2, or 3 would cause all the keys on those columns to register at once. Very odd. Diagnostics told me it was a keypad issue so that was good. I then went to the service manual proceeded to follow the flowcharts for what might be the issue. My 'hunch' was that one more of the other 4052s was having issues. However, the flowchart kept pointing me to either a faulty GTIA (Which does handle some of the keypad controls), bad GTIA socket, or a bad 7400 chip near the RAM section. So I tried replacement GTIAs and 74ls00 chips with no change. The flowcharts have you using an O'scope to check for activity on the various triggers lines and such. Well, I was seeing activity or pulses indicating polling that the console is doing to check for buttons being pressed, but I was seeing something else odd as well. I was seeing what would appear to be ghost pulses between the normal square wave I should be seeing. I proceeded to then use my multi-meter and checked all of the connection points from the GTIA to the passive components to the MUX chips to the controller ports looking for any shorts or broken traces. Everything was checking out... After hours of checking everything the flowcharts and schematics were telling me and nothing else to go on, I decided to do something I should have done in the first place. Guess what that was? I removed each of the 4052 MUX chips (Kinda a PITA since these were all soldered to the board and not in sockets). And checked each one of them in my Bitback chip tester pro. Sure enough, I found another failed 4052 at position U12 about middle of the board just ahead of the controller ports. After installing all new sockets and putting in the original 4052s that passed and replacing U12. Finally the controllers were working properly again and the controller loop board was passing the diagnostics! The moral here is that people are SO quick to blame the controllers on the 5200 for their woes. The reality, is that the 4052 MUX chips are very prone to ESD failure and fail they do...often. Especially the RCA branded ones. Next time you have controller issues with your 5200, don't assume that controller is a POS and blanket blame it. Have the console checked out to be sure it isn't something internal causing an issue. The pic below shows the two 4052 MUX chips I had to replace to get this fully working again. They have little silver dots on them to indicate I replaced them and to mark where pin 1 is. Again, they are highly prone to failure so if you own a 5200, best to have a full set of these on hand just in case. They are cheap ICs so it is good insurance to have on hand. In this case I have small stash of OEM RCA ones that have tested good that I've pulled from other dead 5200s over the years. I suspect in the past that U10's 4052 was changed out in the past as it was already in a socket and had a different lot number on it from the others. View the full article
  16. Just recently picked a 5200 up, I thought the listing showed the switch box but apparently not! oops! I will probably mod it later but just for testing and restoration purposes I'd like to have the original box and power supply.
  17. Hi all, I think that the Atari 5200 is under-represented in the BASIC 10-liners competition, so here is a new easy way to write games for the console: Just released a new beta version of FastBasic, with one big addition: With the help of @vitoco, the PC compiler now supports the Atari 5200! You can read the details in the manual at https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/blob/master/a5200.md , and the compiler usage in https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/blob/master/compiler/USAGE.md Basically, the Atari 5200 target supports: - All the integer and string functions, including compatible STICK() and STRIG(). - Graphic modes 0, 1, 2, 7 to 13 and 15, with PLOT and DRAWTO support. - DLI and P/M. - PRINT to screen and GET for reading the Atari 5200 keypads. To implement the Atari 5200 support, there are a lot of changes to the compiler under the hood, now the compiler supports multiple targets, and the old "integer only" and "floating-point" compilers are simply different targets now, the targets currently implemented are: Atari 8-bit computers binary loadable files (XEX, with and without floating point), Atari 8-bit computers Cartridge images (CAR, with and without floating point) and the new Atari 5200 Cartridge images (BIN). Also, for advanced users, now the language can be extended without modifying the compiler sources, by writing new target files, there is an example in the compiler manual for writing a new statement and a new function, see https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/blob/master/compiler/USAGE.md#extending-the-language There is a few new language extensions: - TAB() function inside PRINT, moves to a column multiple of a number. - DIM can be used to declare normal variables (like "DIM X$, Z"), the variables are automatically initialized to 0 or empty strings. - The comma in prints now uses the TAB function internally, so it behaves more consistently in screen output (but in a different way that Atari BASIC). Well, you can download all the usual files from Github: https://github.com/dmsc/fastbasic/releases/tag/v4.6-beta Attached is a test program, the "joyas" game ported to the Atari 5200 Have Fun! EDIT: final 4.6 version is released: joyas.bas joyas.bin
  18. Prices include shipping. May potentially consider trades, though my wants are minimal at this point - feel free to check my post in the wanted section! Reluctant to split up the lots, but who knows - wow me. Photos available upon request, thanks! TRS-80 - $110 -CoCo 2 (model #26-3134A) with one joystick, Mega Bug, Space Assault 2600 - $40 -Poker Plus (picture label) 5200 Lot - $35 -Kaboom -River Raid -Super Breakout Sega Master System Lot - $45 -Double Dragon -Penguin Land Both CIB Sega Genesis Lot - $90 -Dynamite Headdy (cb) -Landstalker (loose) -Mortal Kombat (loose) -Sonic 1 (nfr - cb) Computer Game Lot - $25 -TI-99 - Alpiner (cib) -TI-99 - Munch Man (ci) -Vic-20 - Pirates’ Cove (ci) -Vic-20 - The Sky is Falling -TRS-80 - Space Assault Astrocade - $30 *Both are repro carts* -Sea Devil (with case / manual) -Sneaky Snake -1 controller with partial functionality - $10 O2 / Videopac - $20 -Loony Balloon Colecovision Lot - $20 -Gateway to Apshai -Tutankham* —I could not get Tutankham to load on my console, but as it was a second copy, I did not try for long. Perhaps after a thorough cleaning, it will come back to life? Basically, this is a freebie, with my hope that someone gets lucky. RUN Commodore Vic-20/C64 Magazine -Issues #1-5, dating 01-05/84. Clueless on this kind of thing, so offer..?
  19. Hello! So I wanted to port ICT over to the 5200 (Because why not) BUT I ran into an issue: 1. 4 highres sprites 2. 4 lowres sprites 3. add 2 sprites together to get 2bpp sprite 4. 2bpp sprites = 2 sprites (!) per line Welp, EVERY SINGLE SPRITE in ICT is 2bpp. And 1 color isn't enough. So I realised I could trigger a DLI at the start of a frame, then change the colors for the BACKGROUND and SPRITES (or just sprites because I don't think I need more than 5 colors for the BK) and then WSYNC. That would give me atari 2600 capability! But, I don't know how to do the DLI ... I know how to enable it, just how do I trigger it? Thanks. ?
  20. SELLING ENTIRE COLLECTION FROM 1980's. I worked as a sales rep for Activision in the early 1980's and have a LOT of prototypes (14 total - 8 for 2600, 2 for 5200, 4 for Intellivision), used games in boxes (40+ and mostly Actiivision titles), a 2600 and a 400 game console and even typed original drafts of instructions for 5 games. I want to sell it ALL IN ONE LOT. According to these blogs the protos should be worth about $80 each, no idea of the value of the instruction manuals, and we all know the value of the other games and consoles (not much...). I also have two unopened, sealed ROBOT TANK by Activision for the 2600. Check out the pics. I live in San Diego and YOU will pay shipping. First $600 (plus shipping) can have it ALL, right now! Or make your best offer. and highest bidder just may get this Collection. I had trouble uploading the pics from Google so here's a link top the pics - just copy and paste... (Sorry, I am a salesman, not a tech!!!) LOL https://photos.app.goo.gl/WN5DyyNTrGApAnec7
  21. For a while, I have had an idea for Atari 5200 and A8 called Detective Powers. My old blog entry from 2015 has my original ideas. Here is the original blurb for the game: Assume the role of the world’s most famous consulting detective, using investigation and deduction to navigate Baker Street, countryside manors, and interior room locations in a retro 80’s arcade-adventure style of game play. Find helpful items and clues, keep your Detective Powers fully charged and solve each case. Cases are based on several canonical Holmes stories by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and are planned to include The Musgrave Ritual, The Dancing Men, The Hound of the Baskervilles, and The Final Problem. Sherlock Holmes Adventures is a 32K game for the Atari 8bit XL/XE computers and the Atari 5200 Supersystem. I've worked on it now and then, but my goal of twin 5200 / A8 dev has been slow going. I have 2 Atari 5200 engines at 32K, and 1 A8 engine at 64K using bank switching. My attempts to make 1 64K engine that would produce twin 5200/A8 game ROMs hasn't been going too well. So I went back and just fooled around more with the original 32K 5200 code. I figure I can eventually copy this code to an A8 compatible shell. But I was tired of fighting with the mechanics of bank switching and 5200 vs A8 registers. I took the prettier font/charset I used in Adventure II XE and I've got a shell going on 5200. This game is more text-intensive, and the 5200 version is currently in TASM (not DASM). I tried using the TASM .TEXT directive, but it only seemed to work with lower case letters. If I put .TEXT "Hello World" , the capital letters don't translate to screen correctly. I wrote a conversion macro so I can continue to use the .TEXT feature for the verbiage and not worry about capital/lower-case letter problems. I haven't included any of the actual in-game screens into this engine yet. First I'd like to understand better how to easily include the verbiage. In the game, Holmes will talk to you as you play, as though you are Watson. Do something dumb, you'll read in the text box "Really Watson, this will NOT do!" I still have some more work to figure out how to more easily include lots of verbiage.
  22. I found a Trak-Ball that is serial number 00249, so I figured it'd be interesting to see what kind of serial numbers are out there. I asked the 5200 facebook group and a bunch of people there gave me the numbers off of their Trak-Balls. Please feel free to post your serial number and any interesting information, like Country of Manufacture and the EP codes. Or, any other code prefixes. Here's the list. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1aOaXTLlwIG_rvisCZmIbVjZiZ8-MXtSo0AxY41u3-BU/edit?usp=sharing
  23. Warning massive Atari 5200 appreciation post ! ? Just more sorting, organizing my collection. Having recently put together my little retro gaming corner well, I think I definitely need to make some time and add some 5200 playtime and appreciation. Found all my 5200 related items in a couple boxes and it’s not a bad little collection I think? I had gotten a decent sized lot consisting of the console and games probably 10 years or so ago. Later, one of the first things of course was getting an early Atarimax USB flash cart as I figured that would cover me for other games I might want to play. HOWEVER, looking through it just now I got to say, overall it’s not to bad a collection of original carts? Definitely some titles like Vanguard I would have wanted anyways and I look forward to replaying some of these and see how some like Star Wars arcade compare to other versions? Really, as far as original cart collections I forgot that this is one of my better ones until I pulled it all out of storage ? Also shown a variety of manuals, some catalogs and such, controller overlays, some are doubles and I thought that was all of them but as I was sorting through I noticed many carts already have an original overlay tucked in the back of them. I am quite pleased with the overall condition especially of the 5200 still having the plastic on the silver label and specially the back storage cover is intact. It’s an original 4 port with the odd power passthrough RF box as well, I have two original power supplies but see one has heat shrink wrap near the end of the connector so I will stick with the other one. I do know it is compatible with the 2600 add on as well as all 5200 games because it had the fix applied. At some point since it never came with a controller I got one of the original 5200 controllers from BEST ELECTRONICS with the gold contacts inside and a member on here, was creating his own db9 pc controller adapter that allows me to plug in both an original controller and PC CONTROLLER SIMULTANEOUSLY, it’s not pretty but better than anything I could put together, I recall it working fine back when I originally tested it. Pretty sure I picked up the Gravis pc joystick back during my thrift shop days and though we’ll, this is the one to go with my 5200 ? So there is my massive post on it, sorry for the novel but I been building up to it and had to find time to put everything together take the pictures as well as have the motivation which comes and goes so easily these days. ?? I know many hate on the 5200 but back when it initially came out I could not afford replacing or adding to my 2600, I knew only one person who had one in their home but it belonged to his step dad and so we were not allowed to play it, weird ? I recall seeing commercials and thinking wow it looked so much better then my faithful old 2600 ? Lookin forward to reexperiencing the 5200 for all it's faults and seeing how games like Star Wars Arcade compare to other versions.
  24. I heard a while ago that the wonky control in Galaxian is due to a case of two swapped pointers somewhere in the machine code. Has there ever been a rom which had this problem fixed? If not, how hard would it be to fix? It sounds like something someone with a hex editor could do. Thanks,
  25. Is the ball in these typically that yellowish color when new? After seeing images in some recent topics I decided to dig mine out of storage, forgot what great condition mine was in and about the only thing I have that also still has the clear plastic on the aluminum strip (MUST RESIST REMOVING ?) I really need to try this accessory more as it seems to be in excellent shape however, I noticed like many pictured the ball seems discolored yellowish, looking up images online it seems it WAS originally white? If it should be white might look into brightening or SHOULD I BOTHER? Is it more trouble than it is worth? I only lightly tested it upon receiving the 5200 / games etc in a lot years ago. I should do more testing and also maybe give it some maintenance if required. ANY GOOD TUTORIALS or videos on that? Also, I may have posted similar at one time but my memory is not getting any better ? Still, thanks in advance for any / all replies.....IF anyone or a mod notices I am repeating this post just merge it or point me in the direction of original post.
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