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Found 258 results

  1. Hi everybody, for those of you who are not on Facebook Bob and I just wanted to let you all know that we are starting our own, from scratch Atari 5200 Podcast. We want to thank Willie and Arkay for allowing us to have contributed to their podcast. We hope to have our first introductory Episode out by September. We plan to go through all the commercial releases. Anyway that's all for now. Feel free to visit our facebook page.
  2. Just wanted to make a post in which I can share my channel with others. I cover a ton classic consoles, oddball items, as well as newer games. Come check it out! https://www.youtube.com/user/swlovinist
  3. A quick note about the hacks: I have decided to place all of my hacks in one, convenient thread. As I grew up with my Atari 5200 and Atari 800XL, there were certain games that I thought had a little more potential. I had created basic hacks for a few of these games. I always thought that my 5200 Popeye could look better. Brutus didn't have a number "5" for a head in the arcade version. I knew I had drawn more accurate Mario characters on my 800XL. If only I could plug them into the games. I teamed up with Playsoft, who provided the tools and wisdom to make these games possible. Some of these games have other contributors. Tep392 helped us tweak the collision and touchy controls in DK Jr. I believe that Tep392 and Kjmann worked on the original Donkey Kong RMT sound version. I believe there is another member who helped Playsoft in some of the A8 to 5200 conversions. I am not sure who drew the giant Popeye head. If anybody has clarity on this, let me know, so credit can go where it is due. These are truly community projects, and I had a great time watching them transform. Playsoft did an amazing job of hacking display list interrupts, giving me a little more height area (eg. thicker 5200 Mario Bros floors, as well as multiple floor types). I have been holding off on releasing the latest Mario Bros hacks, because I didn't want to release as many revisions. I was also hoping for some upgraded sound effects for Mario, but there's not always enough time in the day. There's a bonus hack for the 7800 Mario Bros. I found the 7800 graphics tedious to hack. The characters were drawn too small and flat, and the game itself plays horribly. That version has the least number of animation frames, so the animation is poor regardless. It is my "Lipstick on a Pig" release. Donkey Kong: Atari 8-bit Computer Arcade version -- DK_A8_Arcade.xex Atari 8-bit Computer RMT version (Updated sound) -- DK_A8_RMT.xex Atari 5200 Supersystem version -- DK5200_Arcade.bin Donkey Kong Jr: (Arcade & Enhanced versions) Atari 8-bit Computer Arcade version -- DKJr_A8_Arcade.xex Atari 8-bit Computer Enhanced version -- DKJr_A8_Enhanced.xex Atari 5200 Supersystem Arcade version -- DKJr_5200_Arcade.bin Atari 5200 Supersystem Enhanced version -- DKJr_5200_Enhanced.bin Popeye Arcade: Atari 8-bit Computer version --PopeyeArcade_A8_Final.xex Atari 5200 Supersystem version -- Popeye5200_ArcadeFinal.bin Mario Bros (1983, 5200 version): Atari 5200 Supersystem bin version -- MarioBros_Arcade_52.bin Atari 5200 Supersystem car format -- MarioBros_Arcade_52.zip Mario Bros XE: Atari XL/XE version - MarioBrosArcade_XE.zip Mario Bros 7800: Atari 7800 version - Mariobros_7800_Arcade.a78
  4. Hi everyone, I'm new here but I am a long time Atari collector and have always wanted to join this forum. anyways, I have an issue on my hands in the form of a beat up 4-port 5200 I just picked up. I got this thing for 5$, it came with the controllers and console, that's it. I don't have any more 5200s so I had to buy a switch box and a power supply. I just got all that in today and tested it, and I'm getting nothing, no sound, and no video. I already measured the supply and it looks good and the switch box seems to be outputting the correct voltage and has a reassuring spark. I heard something about different 5200s using different power supplies, I bought one that says 9.3 VDC (I hope that's ok.) I just don't know what to test next or where to go, the red led doesn't even light up when I turn it on. the switch is really gummy but I don't know which points to jump to bypass it. please help with my 5200, thanks!
  5. Recommended board: Plug-In (if 4050 soldered in) The 5200 may either have soldered or socketed 4050. This will affect the procedure somewhat so we'll start with instructions for a soldered in 4050: Position the main PCB with the cartridge slot toward the back. Soldered-in 4050: 1. Solder the 16-pin socket on top of the 4050. It is only necessary to solder pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 11. Soldering pin 16 is probably a good idea as well just to secure all corners of the socket. With a reasonably small iron tip, you should be able to work between the 4050 and the Antic chip behind it. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. Socketed 4050: I am currently revising this section as the 4050 is necessary to retain the reset hardware and the jumper method isn't reliable enough. Removing the 4050 to plug in the UAV will disable the RF video. If this isn't a problem, then follow these steps: 1. Remove the 4050. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Solder a jumper across the back pads of R2 and R3 (only do this if the 4050 is removed!) 6. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. If you wish to retain RF video, then you'll need to keep the 4050. However, soldering a socket on top of the 4050 will raise the UAV up too high to replace the shielding which is necessary for decent RF performance. For this reason, it is preferable to get a Kit and build the UAV according to This post and then follow the instructions above (skipping step 5). Installing an Audio Companion board: 1. Locate C37 and solder the Audio Companion board across its leads with ground (G) toward the front. Apply the soldering iron to both the capacitor lead and the large pads at the bottom of the board while applying solder until they flow together. This will provide power and hold the AC in place. 2. Solder a wire from input iA (the first pad at the top from the back) to the back pad of R50 (1K). This resistor is just inside the shield area in front of where the AC is now installed. 3. Connect the audio out wire to the last pad on the Audio Companion marked out. If you're using a coaxial wire, you can connect ground to the back pad of the capacitor in front of C37 (C51) or any other nearby grounded spot like the exposed shield strip. Carefully check your work against the pictures before powering the system. Route cables carefully out of the shielding during reassembly.
  6. Hello to everyone! I’ve been on AA for many years, but have never had a chance to a) build and b) showcase my classic video game collection. With our recently expanded space, I now have room to set up items that I’ve been storing for years. There’s a bundle to show, but I will begin with just a few shots that demonstrate my humble kickoff to a budding game room. I figured that there was no better time than now to assemble such a showcase. Enjoy! List of games and consoles shown: - Select classic boxed Colecovision console and games, CIB or NIB: Frenzy, Cosmic Avenger, Zaxxon, Front Line, Carnival, Smurf Rescue, Donkey Kong (my own repro box), DK Super Game (Adam), Cabbage Patch Kids Adventure, Antarctic Adventure, Mouse Trap. - Select Opcode Games and modules: Gradius, DK (box only), Penguin Adventure, Super Game Module (Coleco logo) and SGM (Opcode logo), SGM Pro (box only). - Select Atari 5200 games, mostly NIB: Missile Command, Pac-Man, Countermeasure, Dig Dug, RS Soccer, RS Tennis, Centipede, Berzerk, Jungle Hunt, Kangaroo, Pengo, Mario Bros, Gremlins. - Atari 7800 console and games: OG 1984 Atari 7800 (Warner) nearly CIB (missing original inserts), early-run 1986 Centipede (purple) and Asteroids, both NIB. - Colecovision loose games, too many to list, but nearly complete collection. - Atari 2600 CIB/NIB collection. Missing a lot from pre-1982 color line. Have focused on the silver (all pre-1984 Warner) and red box games. Still missing over 50 from the post-1984 era. - Sony 27” WEGA Trinitron CRT Television Set (2004)
  7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdh5zU1J4Kk This is a compilation of every Atari game to be released on more than one of their cartridge-based consoles. If it was released on a combination of the 2600, 5200 or 7800, it's on here.
  8. I figured I’d try my hand at making a few different 5200 controllers, and as a Paddle Controller was never commercially available…I figured I’d start there. So unveiling my - 5200 S.S. Edition – VVG Paddle Controller: I found a few examples online of how others have done something similar, but as I wanted a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 handheld Paddle Controller, I wasn’t going to be able to start with any existing controller as a donor. So the base enclosure is a Hammond Mfg. black anodized, extruded aluminum enclosure, with aluminum end plates and a slide-out aluminum belly plate. Needless to say the enclosure is extremely robust, machines very well, and is only slightly larger than a normal CX-52. Normally the selection of a potentiometer for the control in a paddle controller is kind of a no-brainer. Pick one with the resistance value that you require, and that has the physical attributes that will allow for its installation in your project. But when researching paddle controllers others have made/modified for the 5200 and 2600, I had read complaints that some felt the controls were too sensitive for some games or not sensitive enough for others. So I chose a 2-Gang, 500k ohm linear potentiometer wired through a SPDT switch, so that I can switch between 500k ohm and 1M ohm at the push of a switch. The 500k ohm setting is less “touchy” and allows for finer movements and control, while the 1M ohm setting allows for super quick on-screen movements, like those necessary in the higher levels of Kaboom! The resistance selection switch is located on the lower end plate and is protected from accidental in-game switching, by a clear flip-cover. The switch to the right of the resistance selection switch is a SP3T (ON) – ON – (ON) paddle rocker switch, which is wired as the controller’s Up/Down controls. This allows me to maneuver around my AtariMax Ultimate SD Multi-Cart menu line by line for game selection. For the games I intend to use this with, I don’t know that I really need both 5200 buttons, but I figured as I was going all out, I might as well include both the Top & Bottom buttons… …and to make it ambidextrous, I installed them on both sides: The side buttons are Sanwa SDM-18 arcade test buttons. They feature concave plungers for a great vintage feel, and have a nice light/short press to make the contacts. Of course it wouldn’t be a “full-featured” & “stand-alone” 5200 controller if it didn’t have its own 12 button keypad and Start/Pause/Reset buttons, so I installed a 4x4 membrane keypad with a custom overlay modeled after the original CX-52 buttons. This allows for all game selections and auxiliary controls, without the need for a wye cable and/or a 2nd controller to be used in tandem. Lastly as I don’t normally sit within 2’ of my gaming consoles, and I don’t like using extension cables if I don’t have to, I bought and wired a 10’ 5200/Neo-Geo extension cable for the cord w/ molded plug end. The plug end has the longer/deeper cut required for the Neo-Geo, but I don’t have any issue with it on my 4-Port. I think the control knob itself has a good vintage look, and I like the aluminum disc in the center, but I think I’m going to keep looking for something different. The potentiometer has a standard ¼” shaft so there are lots of options on the market…I’ll see if I can find something I like any better. Additionally I’m going to make an inline 5200-to-2600 adapter cable so that I can use this on/with with Atari 2600/8-bit games, and I'll make a properly pinned wye cable so that I can plug (2) of these into (1) 2600/8-Bit controller port, for 2-player 2600/8-bit games. Enjoy!
  9. I was just reading the Wikipedia article on Dandy (the predecessor to Gauntlet; that's a complex story for another time). When reading the section on development I noticed this: The game engine was inspired by John Conway's Game of Life. Life is cellular automata; at each "turn" the game examines the squares on the grid that makes up the playfield, and uses a basic calculation to determine whether or not that square should hold a cell. In Dandy this same basic mechanism is used, but the decision was essentially "if the player is on that side of the cell, and there is a monster on the other side, then I will hold a monster on the next turn." This gave the illusion of the monsters chasing the player, when in fact they did not move at all. Like a marquee, the motion was an illusion as they simply turned on or off. This algorithm was easy to implement using the limited resources of the Atari 800; it took the same time to run no matter how many monsters were currently in the map. It also had the property that any dungeon that could be drawn in the editor would run correctly and efficiently, the designer did not have to worry about "correct" placement of the monsters or generators to ensure the map would. Not only was I surprised to learn that the original Dandy was on an Atari 800, but this shows how it got over the limitations of missile/player graphics. I remember that someone attempted to make a 5200 Gauntlet, and I think it used missile/player graphics with each player object representing a group of monsters, and when you killed one it would change the sprite to a group which didn't contain that monster. This approach would seem to work better. I wonder if this would also be fast enough for Galaga, which had similar roadblocks to implementation.
  10. Hello, I'm new here on atariage, because I need some advice. I have bought in 2008 from Atari2600.com 2 Original Boulder Dash cartridges for the Atari 5200. Yellow one with serial: 080 of 100 Red one with serial: 085 of 100 I have only opened the shippingbox they came in and never the games them self, so they are new and in the seal. So I have the Original shippingbox and bill and email proof form JC Atari2600.com. They are Original FSS release by Atari2600.com see year 2006 (https://firststarsoftware.com/boulderdash-htm/) I only want to know what they are worth today? Many thanks!
  11. Not my auction ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-5200-Dual-Controller-Holder-Joystick-Coupler-/171718774770?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27fb3c8ff2 Saw this while looking for something else. I have two already.
  12. Hello everyone! I've got a question about an Atari 5200 I recently picked up on craigslist. It's a 4-port model and came with all of the appropriate cords and stuff. I took it home and hooked it up and I could not get it to send a signal to the television. Curiously, the red light does come on the console itself, so I believe it is getting power, but the television does not display a signal at all. I tried on a couple of different TVs and got the same results. Wiggling the cord doesn't help either. I read on another forum thread here that the switchbox itself makes a "clicking sound" when you power up the console. However, I didn't hear any sound when I powered mine up. It does, however, allow another console to pass through it via the antennae plug in, and does display that video signal. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I was assured by the previous owner that the console worked the last time he plugged it in. If it is indeed the switchbox, does anyone have a homemade one that I can buy from them? My solderng skills are not up to par with creating one from scratch. Thanks and I look forward to your responses!
  13. 20 text label Atari 2600 games. Nothing rare (are there any rare text labels?), but they are mostly in good shape and they all work. A couple of dupes, such as bowling, space invaders, and breakout. Pictures are attached below. $20 shipped USA. Also have 4 Atari 5200 Parker Bros. games: Popeye, Frogger, Gyruss and qbert. All come with their manuals, but none have been tested. $20 shipped in the usa. Just added four boxed games. Strawberry Shortcake is rough and missing the inner tray. The rest are missing instructions. Also, despite what the box says, there is no bowling in the Strawberry Shortcake box. $20 shipped If you have a question, let me know. Thanks.
  14. Hello all! I recently picked up a ratty old 4-port 5200 lot off craigslist for cheap. It was a great deal if only for the 17 games (including James Bond), but I was hoping to get some life out of the console and controllers as well. So I got everything nice and cleaned up, hooked it all up, and turned it on. The switcher clicked and the power light on the console came on, but no screen output (not even the black screen). So through the process of elimination, I found out that the console and power supply works fine, but that the switcher box wasn't working. (I found out by using a known good switcher, and it came up perfect, with both display and sound clear as a bell.) Took apart the switcher box, had to reflow some cracked joints on both the RF and power supply jacks, then tried it again. That time, I was getting a display, but it was very staticky and had awful static noise coming out. See the picture below: Given how expensive 5200 switchers generally run, I would prefer to fix this one if possible, especially as it seems this is a simple interference issue that I hope shouldn't be too difficult to fix. Oh, and if it's relevant, this is the Switcher box that has the RF antenna screws, and not the one without them. As I mentioned, I've already gone through and reflowed the cracked/loose solder points, but I'm just not sure what to try next. I had considered unwiring the antenna screws altogether, but I wasn't sure if that might mess something up? Worst case scenario, I'll just do an A/V mod on the thing. But my first choice is to fix the Switcher box if at all possible. Thanks in advance for any help!
  15. Wondering what a fair asking price for this would be. I don't want to ship it because it's so big and heavy, so am thinking about listing it on Craigslist. Was going to sell it to the video game store, but they only pay about $15.00 for it and that seemed low to me. I also have 10-15 games for it, which I may list online, but can price check those on eBay. I did price check the console on eBay and everyone's prices there seemed high. Someone wanted $65.00 for a non-working one. TIA for serious responses.
  16. Just added 17 Playstation 2 games with no sports titles. I have not gone through and tested all of these, some have scratches, fingerprints, etc. A few are missing manuals. Therefore, I'll keep the price low. $45 shipped in the USA. I'm selling 15 different Atari 5200 instruction manuals. A few have the overlays. $12 shipped in the USA. Picture is below. Let me know if you have any questions. Box of junk is new and improved with a few more intellivision games. Still has the labeless 2600 games (Frogger, infiltrate, lost luggage) and Intellivision games (Buzz Bombers and I think, Bump n' Jump?) The Colecovision games have not been tested, neither has half-life. Asteroids handheld does work, but screen is scratched. There are about 21 different titles when you take out the dupes. $15 shipped USA.
  17. So, I know all is fair in love and war, and hopefully something better will come along. However, my heart was crushed yesterday evening. I have a Wico 5200 joystick. I never had a Y-cable, so I made a keypad out of an old Radio Shack membrane keypad. It works well, but I would like to have a nice pair. I recently saw a Wico stick, with the Wico pad, on ebay. It was mint, and it even had the box. I kept telling myself I didn't need to spend any money, and I would watch. The seller would auction for a week, drop the price $5, and relist for another week. After three weeks of watching, there were ZERO bids. I finally decided that I'd never find another setup like that again. With only 3-hours left, I made my bid. Sure enough, somebody outbid me with an hour or so left. NOBODY HAD BID ON IT IN 3 weeks. They were just waiting to break my heart!!! I upped my bid, and they outbid me at the last minute. Kind of bummed. I know I am feeling more personal about it than it is. My initial reaction is to think they did it maliciously, just so I couldn't have it. I suppose they were just watching it too. Anyway, is anybody selling a working Wico 5200 with a y-adapter or keypad? Thanks, D
  18. Aside from luckily winding up with Mr. Do's Castle recently...these games I bough at a flea market in the 90's when I 1st began collecting, but they have been sitting around unplayed ever since. I never wound up getting the cables & controllers for the 5200 I was given at that time, threw it away before a move (kinda regrettingly) & I don't think I'll ever pick one up again in the future I do want to buy a Lynx II soon, and start a little collection....I would rather trade these 5200 carts towards some Lynx games, but if I get no responses from people wanting to trade after a while I wouldn't mind selling them. Please let me know if you're interested either way & make me an offer. Steve
  19. Hi. I am new to the Atari 5200 Homebrew scene. The 5200 system was my first system I ever owned. I hope there someone out there that can help me out and would be willing to sell me the Atari 5200 M.U.L.E. Cartridge. I have a 4 port system and my friends & I are M.U.L.E. fans so I hope there's someone that can help me out, thanks.
  20. Hi looking to buy 1 or more of these. Redemption 5200 Controller Adapter, thanks
  21. Greetings all, I've been a collector for quite a while but only recently got into Atari. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon a complete 5200 system with a good amount of peripherals and games complete in the box. I took the time to document it all in an Imgur album which I then annotated and posted on Reddit. This seemed like a good excuse to pop in here and try to share it with you all since I had been reading the forums for a while now but have never posted. Atari 5200 Flea Market Find I restored a 2600 before, but this was my first experience with a 5200, so please excuse any mistakes. It helps that the system is basically unused and that many of the peripherals and components are pristine. I know my video setup is not ideal, especially the flat screen, so sorry about that. I'd imagine this collection is not nearly as interesting to people who deal exclusively in 5200 stuff, but I wanted to share it anyways. Anyhow, please let me know what you think, or if I can provide any other details. Cheers
  22. Once again, it's time to start clearing stuff out and raising money to buy homebrews. For the moment I'm just going to use this thread list some of my newer and higher-value items. I also have an old sale thread with items that I'll gradually migrate here. Anything there is still available. Prices do not include shipping, which will always be charged at exact cost. I'm mainly looking for sales, but will consider trades for certain items on my wantlist, e.g. the 32X games I don't have or a CIB Star Control II for 3DO. OK, let's dive in: Sega 32X: World Series Baseball '95 Starring Deion Sanders - box and manual only - $50 or best offer I actually bought a box and manual for this game, and only a couple weeks later ran into a CIB copy in the wild. The box and manual I bought was in better shape, so I kept those + the "wild" cart, and am selling the "wild" box/manual. I'm not sure if you can easily see the sunfading in the pictures. On the box/outer sleeve itself, it's present on one side, but really pretty mild and not too bad at all. (The top of the yellow tray is severely sunfaded, almost white, but those are easy to replace if necessary.) The box isn't mint and there's some wear on a couple edges, but overall it's in quite reasonable shape. If the price seems bizarro, this is the 2nd rarest US release for the 32X, and regularly goes for well over $100, so this is a good way to save money by piecing together a copy. Sega Genesis: CIB: Gauntlet IV - $16.00 Mortal Kombat - $8.00 Revenge of Shinobi (Sega Classics) - $11.00 Strider Hiryu (JPN) - $15.00 Boxed: Street Fighter II: Championship Edition - $5.00 Superman - $7.00 Thunder Force II - $8.00 Other: Game Genie - $5.00 I have lots of other Genesis stuff that'll be joining this thread sooner or later. Much of it is in the old thread linked above. PlayStation 1: Sealed games: Crash Bandicoot 2 (Greatest Hits) - price TBA Mortal Kombat Trilogy (Greatest Hits) - price TBA Shrek Treasure Hunt - $5.00 Shooter Starfighter Sanvein - $5.00 Speedball 2100 - $6.00 Spyro the Dragon (Greatest Hits) - price TBA I also have 12-15 other games available for sale, mainly Crash Bandicoot and Tomb Raider games. Details forthcoming. GameCube: Wavebird controller: I have one, but I don't think I really want or need it. Details TBA, or ask if you're interested. CIB games: Mario Golf: Toadstool Tour (Player's Choice) Pac-Man World 2 (on the fence about selling this) Super Mario Sunshine (Player's Choice) I also have a CIB Lego Star Wars with a totally trashed case. Buy the two games above and it's yours for free. Atari ST: Harrier Strike Force (sealed) - $7.00 (no idea what to charge for this!) ------------- Prices do NOT include shipping. Buyers within the US and Canada preferred. All items will be well-packed in a box unless buyer and seller agree on a different shipping method. Payment via PayPal; gift payment (or adding 3% to cover fees) is always appreciated, but never demanded. Also feel free to look at my trader feedback thread; I also have one at Sega-16. Please provide references if you're new to Atariage. More to come, including Miracle Piano Teaching System stuff for NES & SNES.
  23. Looking for CIB, VG, NM or M. PM with asking price, including shipping to CA. 7800: Alien Brigade Mean 18 Planet Smashers Tank Command Title Match Pro Wrestling Water Ski 2600: Coleco Gemini CIB Jaguar: Braindead 13 in Long Box Lynx: Lynx I CIB 5200: CIB Atari published commons
  24. I just received a four-port 5200 that was described as not outputting video -- just a black screen. I hoped it was a problem with the PS or switch box, but I tested the console with spares of each with no luck. After reading some of the 5200 "black screen" threads, I'm ready to start swapping ICs from other 5200s I have. As anticipated, the RF shield is a beast. I've managed to twist the tabs back to their original position, but the RF shield still seems stuck to the PCB. It's almost as if it is glued down. I don't want to break the PCB or anything else by using force, so I was wondering if there was some trick to lifting up the RF shield after the tabs no longer obstruct the removal. Here's a photo. This is a four-port asterisk model, by the way. Thanks for any advice!
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