Search the Community
Showing results for tags '6 switch'.
Found 4 results
I'm selling three Atari 2600 VCS's: 4 switch Sears Tele-Games model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 4 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, pair of paddles, and 5 games of your choice (see listing below) (Sold) 6 switch woody model: includes 2 joysticks, 5 games of your choice (see listing below), and at no extra cost a TV plug&play console. All have been recently refurbished, are clean and 100% working, deoxidized the contacts in the joysticks and the pots in the paddles as well as the switches on the consoles. You can see more / buy them on my store at Jaded Chicken: https://www.divarin.net/dcag/items.php?categoryId=13 For shipping outside of the US contact me here as i haven't gotten around to coding international shipping calculation on my store site yet. Asking $75 per set.
Hi everyone. For the last 20years I have had a keen interest in the the old 2600. I've previously had to part with a few that didn't work. I have now got a couple more that want to work but need a little help and I thought it's about time I learnt how to fix them. Here a the videos of the screen. Ones very fuzzy and the other just shows the space invaders image What bits do I need to replace? Any pointers would be appreciated.
Hello everyone, I´ve just acquired my first Atari: a 2600 six switch from Hong Kong, looking clean and with 10 games. Hooked it up by RF to my older Philips LCD screen which I also use for other consoles using RF. It picks up the signal well enough but it´s the black screen.. Sound is great though and I can play Pacman for example by feel and the other games make all the proper game sounds as well. I´ve resoldered the boards, replaced the 2200 and 4,7 uF capacitors, cleaned cartridges and the holder, cleaned the IC´s pins and sockets, but with no change. So I guess I´m switching IC´s. I´ve been reading through many of the threads on the subject here but one aspect that may help narrow it down is not mentioned: Which IC is the likely culprit, if any, when you can still play the game and have crystal clear audio? Greetings, Bram, the Netherlands.