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Found 8 results

  1. Hello, looking for a good quality, double-sided photo of the atari 64k memory card (atari 64kmr) for the 1090 xl expansion system. It would help me for to be able to redo this board. or better someone here maybe has the "gerber" file to recreate the PCB ? I have an atari 1090xl expansion system, but I have no cards to put in it 😢 Thanks!!
  2. I had this machine for a very long time in my collection of weird clone hardware, this one is probably among my rarest ones. Is a 64k pc similar to an commodore 64, that has a famicom built in, its a weird specimen even for famiclone standard, it uses a specific 5v ac adapter, wich makes some games have sound error's and visual glitches. Uses nes ports for the controllers, and has an expansion port that i still have no clue whats for, i have two of these but this is the only one that i have that has a fully working keyboard, the machine was bought in 1992 from a magazine number in CDMX, is a very interesting piece of clone hardware, and the last of the 3 bit corp computers. Im thinking about trading it for other weird clone console, or maybe another Gentry sufami clone to fix mine, if someone is interested pm Anyway, has someone ever heard of these computers by BitCorp before?
  3. As anyone who has an Atari 600XL knows it only came with 16k. Good enough to run game cartridges but nothing else. Atari's solution was this little device that attached to the BUS adapter on the back. the Atari 1064. These are rather impossible to get a hold of these days (in fact I had a hard time just finding a picture) so the current procedure to up the memory is adding the memory internally. There are several ways of doing this, lotharek.pl/ has a nifty little chip that just installs under the 6502. Easy and not all that expensive (except the shipping). Another way which is harder is to install the 64k chips and slightly modify the motherboard. No easy here. Bending up pins off chips and soldering wires to them. The pathway of the true geek (who doesn't have much money as this cost only $7.00 shipped). Legal: I am not a professional but have had years of experience with computers. Still, use these instructions at your own peril. I assume no responsibility. STEP 1.) Put on a stax of wax (or MP3 player) with your favorite music. Mine is Episodes 1-6 of Star Wars by John Williams. I made it to Episode 3 before I had finished. Step 2.) Everything else. My tools; screwdriver, needle nose pliers, chip puller, small wire cutters, wire stripper, helping hand and solder station. My pile of notes and pictures: Now the Atari 600XL has 4 bolts holding the back cover along the edges. unscrew these and gentle remove the top since the top is attached to the motherboard via the, very delicate, keyboard cable. If you still have the metal shielding over the motherboard remove it via the bolts along the edge. I had previously removed mine and stored it. I, personally, find no reason to have it on the motherboard but it's up to you if you want to return the shield after the installation. Now disconnect the keyboard ribbon cable. The keyboard cable is attached to an edge card that is slotted into the motherboard. GENTLY rock the edge card out of the socket pulling on the edge card NOT THE RIBBON till the edge card comes loose. On to the main attraction, the motherboard and the chips. First is to remove the 2 x 16k chips and replace with the 2 new 64k chips. Chip location is U12 and U11. The location is noted on my note of the chip locations. NOTE: use a chip puller to keep from damaging the chips or the socket in removal. Here is a picture of one of the 16k chips is still in the clutches of the puller. Below is my map of the motherboard. I have marked the location of the chips on the map. See where the RAM chips are that need to be replaced. And another note: I got lucky in that all my chips were socket-ed. Yours may not in which case you will have to de-solder each chip. Unless you are a pro I would go with lotharek.pl/ solution (mentioned above) which is much easier. Desoldering a chip, unless you know what you are doing, always runs the risk of frying it. Now you can test the 600XL. The memory will still show as 16k (if you hook up the keyboard which I didn't) as you haven't setup the matrix yet. But you will be able to see if maybe you have a bad chip before you go further. Now comes the time that tries men's souls, pulling the support chips and soldering wires on the legs. The below map shows the location of the chips to pull and the wires to solder. I started with pulling up U5. This chip you bend up pin 3 (see mark) and solder on a wire to it. First thing is to prepare the wire by brazing the end and putting the shrink wrap on. below picture. This and next picture you see where I bent up pin 3 that I had pre-marked on the chip before pulling the chip. I pre-marked the pins on all the chips before I pulled them so that I would have no confusion of which pin is which compared to the picture. Also note the slight kink bend I put in the chip leg. this is to ensure the leg, which is much too long, doesn't accidentally touch the other chip when installed. I also cleaned the leg with alcohol to be sure to get a good solder. This is after I soldered on the wire and wrapped the leg in shrink wrap. When soldering the leg be sure to work as fast as possible. Too much heat on the chip can fry it. If you have a problem soldering on the wire take a break and let the chip cool before you try again. Oh, I forgot to take a picture of this but I held the chip with in the jaws of the helping hand to steady the solder. Next, carefully, reinsert the chip back into the socket. be sure all pins are in the slot except the one that is bent with the wire attached. Here is U5 and U6 both done. On U6 you bend up pin 10 and attach the wire just like the previous one. Now solder the two wires to the motherboard. U5 goes to the leftmost-C location (see above map) and U6 goes to the rightmost-J location. I just put a dot of solder on the spots then soldered on the wires into that dot. be careful NOT to let the solder bleed over into the other solder point or on one the traces on the board. on to the next and final chip mod modding the chip U16 pin8 (above picture. finished product, yes getting ahead of myself but picture of step went bad). Same as the other two, bend out straight. I this case no need for kink. Now the wire from U16 goes to resistor R36. Clip or un-solder the one end of the resistor. This is the end you solder/attach to the wire from U16. I clipped the resistor in the the below picture then bent it straight and soldered the wire to it (again see above picture of finished process). This is a picture of the resistor that U16 is being soldered to. Now it's ready to close up and test. Attach the keyboard back by putting the slotted connector back into it's slot, gently. Close up the 600XL and screw back in the 4 screws. Attach a power a sully and monitor cable and run ?FRE(0) which should now show 37902 and run the built in memory self test. You are all done. Rejoice and be glad as your 600XL now has as much memory as it's snotty big brother the 800XL. That is, if you didn't screw anything up.
  4. Hi Guys, I need some help, please... I recently bought a 600XL off of eBay, picked it up tested it - all working. Then opened it and found to my delight that all the chips were socketed! A hardware project in the making. First things first - upgrade to 64k. I tried bending a pin on the IC living at U5 and broke the off - the IC can be replaced, right? So, two questions from this (slightly less than competent) amateur modder... 1) I need to replace the IC at U5... is there any difference between an 74LS158 and a 74LS158N IC? 2) If I do this upgrade can I not upgrade the memory futher - i.e. if want an ultimate 1Mb or similar do I a) have to reverse the 64k upgrade, b) leave it in, it's necessary, or c) nope this is the only memory upgrade for a 600xl? Cheers!
  5. I picked up an NTSC 600XL off eBay a few weeks ago and have finished stage one of the upgrades, including replacing the channel 2-3 selector switch with a 5 pin DIN video port and UAV, and upgrading it to 64K. The next step will be installing an Ultimate 1M board. Mostly things have been successful. The one problem I am seeing is that when I turn it off, if I don't wait around 15 seconds before turning it back on the computer will lock and not reboot. If I power cycle it quickly, the old program will remain at least partially in memory (at least screen RAM) and I can see the previous screen on the display. When cleanly booted, everything seems to work properly. For the RAM upgrade I used 41464-10 DRAM chips. Any ideas what could cause this issue and what can be done to correct it?
  6. Hi all. I’m new as an official forum member but I’ve been a lurker off and on for a few years. I’ve been into ColecoVision with my father since I was a snot-nosed kid back in the early 80’s. Anyway, I am looking for a few cartridges to help my father improve his Coleco-ADAM collection. Here is what I’d like to find first (loose carts are fine, prefer label intact, normal wear is fine): Artillery Duel Bc's Quest for Tires Bump n Jump Choplifter Jumpman Junior Pitstop Time Pilot Antarctic Adventure Boulder Dash Centipede Congo Bongo Defender Galaxian Hero Jungle Hunt Lady Bug Miner 2049 Montezuma's Revenge Oils Well Roc'n Rope Root Beer Tapper Super Cross Force Mr. Do's Castle One-on-One (Dr. J & Larry Bird) Pitfall 2 Quest for Quintana Roo Star Wars Super Action Football Super Cobra The Heist Tutankham We have them all on SD multi-cart and as of two weeks ago, Bob S’s IDE flash drive, but nothing beats the nostalgia of playing from an actual cartridge. If you have any of these that you’d like to sell, please PM me with your asking price. I am also looking for an ADAM memory expander card (any size), ADAM digital tape drive and ADAMnet 3.5' Micro Innovations disk drive. I know it's a longshot on the MI drive but wanted to throw it out there anyway. Thanks, Justin Omaha, NE
  7. So I'm working on a 2600 game and when it's done I'd like to put it on a cartridge, but I want to build it myself and I've run into a few questions. 1. I've been looking around at EPROM, EEPROM, and flash EEPROM and have found that flash looks like the best option, but can I even put a 2600 game on flash EEPROM? 2. The flash module I've found is a 32 pin PDIP package and is 256kB ( http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SST39SF020A-70-4C-PHE/SST39SF020A-70-4C-PHE-ND/2297831 ), my target size is 64kB, will it be a problem if I use a chip that size? 3. I've seen a lot online about programming flash EEPROM, but most of the ones I've seen have been for a different style chip with what looks like a single I/O 8 pin chips as a posed to the multiple I/O many pin arraignment you find on atari games, what is the best way to program the chip I want to use? 4. How do you program the 22v10 chip and is this one a good choice? http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ATF22V10C-15PU/ATF22V10C-15PU-ND/1008580 5. What would be required to build a cart which is compatible with DPC+, right now I'm developing the game without it as I fear it might be too complicated, but I though I'd ask anyway. 6. Is there an actual step by step on building an atari cartridge? I'm no stranger to electronics, but I've dealt mostly with micro controllers and simple circuits and this is a bit out of my experience. I would really appreciate an answer to any or all of these questions. Thanks in advance!
  8. I've been thinking a little, and I think it would be fairly easy to build a RAM board for the atari 400/800 which would occupy the first RAM slot, have a ribbon cable run out to the 74LS42 address decoder, and provide 64K of RAM and the XL OS to the board. I think there would NOT need to be many soldered modifications, maybe to add a hard reset (or just modify the OS to detect the 400/800 NMI style reset). I would do my best to include a way to enable and disable the upgrade, so you can return to 400/800 mode and have all 4 joystick ports available for use, etc. The main purpose for this upgrade would be to put a U1MB into a 400 or 800, and plug it into this board. The existence of an MMU socket, a 28 pin style OSROM socket, and all of the other necesary signals pinned out for the U1MB (with the exception of /HALT which would require a connection to the CPU board I believe) would make the installation all but plug and play since all 400/800's are socketed. The only non-plug and play bit would be the soldered connection to /HALT on the ANTIC, I believe. In addition to providing U1MB connections, this upgrade could be used standalone as a 64K upgrade, just use an OSROM (would be provided) and an MMU (would probably be present on the board as a CPLD) and it works by itself. I was thinking I would do my best to keep the price below $50, though I suspect it'd be cheaper even (the concept itself isn't all that complex IMO, so I'd estimate $30 at the least). Of course, this is only checking interest, I'm not saying I will do this in quantity just yet, or that everything I said is even correct/that the concept is totally viable. EDIT: also, I know that the incognito is basically U1MB + SIDE converted for the 800. I know there are subtle differences in the software, like the U1MB stuff using a different key in place of help on the incognito. To that effect, hopefully Candle will helpful in this regard, and allow me to make some small changes to the U1MB firmware image to allow easy use with this board, which would have to be flashed into the U1MB once installed. I know this seems a lot like incognito, but the difference is that it also supports the 400. That was my original plan, to make it for the 400, but there's no reason it couldn't work in an 800, so I might as well support it. I don't mean this to compete with incognito, I want to make that clear. EDIT2: typo, there will NOT need to be many soldered modifications EDIT3: 400/800 use 74LS42 as address decoder, not 74LS138.
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