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Found 270 results

  1. I just need to know what the c57 and c56 is I know that my zener diode is shot but so isnt those other two pieces and I can't seem to find out what they are and I need then to get my Atari back up and running it's the white brown white thing
  2. Happy Holidays To all, Barb and I wish you the best for the holidays ****Coming very soon **** Sega combos. Many variations will be available, including the CD, the CD platform and so on. If you have any interest in these, send me a PM indicating which or what combinations you are looking for. How many times have you seen a console setting on a shelf,or a table,and covered in a fine layer of dust or sticky fingerprints? Dust and sticky stuff is not our friend!And its certainly not a friend to our consoles. So, a dust cover is not only "eye candy" but it keeps that console killer, dust out. Oh,lets not forget those other killers,foreign objects,unknown liquids,and little kids. And it adds a touch of cool to your collection *****And to all of you sending prayers our way, Barb and I thank you.******* Leukemia is for lack of a better description a life changer.Since I was diagnosed with this a year and a half ago, our lives have seen the entire range of emotions. I was told that I had 1-2 years left when they 1st found it. Then after a very aggressive pattern of chemo and blood transfusions, it went into remission 4 months ago. But now its back again, and I have to be very worried about infections. So we are back to the chemo again, and hope that another miracle will occur. After a depressing vist with the Dr. it appears that choices of treatment , have become limited. I can either go to the hospital for a month where they would treat this with a very very aggressive chemo, or I can get a milder version , given as a shot for 5 days, every month. The choice is becoming clear, and it is Quality or Quantity. I have chosen the quality, and with that I am not sure where it will go. I will say that at least I have been given the option, which alot of people do not get.And after the second go around with the Chemo, I am holding my own.I cannot decide which is worse, a round of 15 shots or getting a bag hooked up for an hour at a time. Bottom line,with Barbs help, and the amazing drugs I soldier on. Again thank you to all who send us best wishes. Since my wife(Barb) started making these covers over 16 years ago,she has continued to expand the choices.I am posting a lot of pictures so you will be able to see all of the choices available. For those of you just seeing these for the first time,we have been selling on Ebay over 15 years,Atari Age over 5 years and have sold covers to buyers worldwide! Covers for the Atari 400 and 800 now available with Red or White logos. . These are all custom made,from"pleather" which is a type of vinyl/leather.Easy to clean,and maintain Yes,we will accept Paypal-verified *******Shipping, no problem with going out of US, as long as you know I have nothing to do with USPS pricing******* Yes, we will combine shipping. And yes, we will give a discount when multiple items are bought. ******Note***** While most of the pictures show the cover installed on an actual console,a few do not,which is why they look dis-sheveld OK,pricing is as follows: 3DO $31.00 Atari 1050(Floppy Drive) $17.00 Atari 5200-$18.00 Atari 5200 Trak- ball-$16.50 Buy both of the 5200 units(Console and Trak-ball) $32.00 Atari 2600-$18.00 Atari VCS-$18.00 Atari 2600 Heavy Sixer-$18.00 Atari Jr/Rainbow-$14.00 Atari 7800-$18.00 **Atari Specials all 4 covers $60.00= 2600,7800,5200, and 5200 Trakball Atari Jaguar-(white)-$16.00 Atari Jaguar-(red)-$16.00 Atari 400- White or Red Logo-$17.00 Atari 800xl-$18.00 Atari 800 Red or white logo-$19.00 Atari Jaguar CD-$18.00-White or Red lettering Colecovision Console $18.00 Colecovision Roller Controller$16.00 Colecovision Module 1(Atari Adaptor)- $15.00 Colecovision Module 2-$18.00 Buy all 4 for $65.00 Commodore 64-$18.50 Commodore Vic 20-$18.50 Commodore C128- $18.50 Commodore C16-$18.50 Fairchild Channel F -$22.00 **Has cutout for power cord and joystick cords** Intellivision(Master System)-$18.00***With running man logo*** Intellivision II-$16.50 Both Intellivision Special Covers $32.00 Intellivision=INTV III- $18.00 Magnavox Odyssey II $25.00 Mattel Aquarius Computer $16.00 Nintendo-NES 101 Red or White Lettering-$16.50 Nintendo/NES White or Red Lettering-$17.50 N-64-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 SNES-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 Sega Dreamcast-orange-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast blue-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast Red- $18.00 Sega Genesis II-$16.50 Sega Genesis-16 bit $18.50 Sega Saturn -$18.50 Sega Master System -$16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 Sears Video Arcade II $18.00 ***Looks like the Atari 7800 Sears Tele-Games(Atari 2600) -$18.00 Sears Tele-Games(Atari Heavy 6r)- $19.00 Sony Playstation 1 $16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 RS 80/Tandy/Radio Shack Computer-$19.00 Texas Instruments 99/4a $18.50 Turbo Graphx 16/TG 16 $18.00 Vectrex Dustcover Black /w/ Blue ,White,Red logo $38.00 Vectrex Cover Gray with Black/Blue $38.00 XBox(Original) $25.00 PM me for additional questions And Thanks for looking. Over the past few years we have had numerous requests for consoles and computers that we do make. The reason we do not make them is because we have not had the actual console/ computer to use for a template. Buyers say, well I can give you the dimensions or send a picture. The problem is that dimensions do not take into account all the curves, bends, protrusions etc that are common on these units. So, working from supplied dimensions almost never works. Barb and I are not as mobile as we used to be, so trying to find these computers/ game consoles is a crap shoot at best and a waste of time at worst. What we can offer is this.If you have a console/computer, preferably a parts shell unit, that your willing to send us, we will make a cover for it and send it back at no charge! Now, we are not interested in units that are so obscure that there might only be 100 in the world. Obviously for us to make the cover there has to be a market of some kind, so please keep that in mind. So, shoot me a PM, let me know what your looking for and we can see if we can help each other!
  3. I'm currently porting a version of my Atari 2600 Roguelike, Dragon's Descent, to the Atari 7800! The latest build can be found here: DragonsDescent_6_25_2019.a78 Earlier build(s) here: DragonsDescent_6_14_2019.a78 This version fixes a background color bug. I also found MAME rendered the background a little dark, so I tried brightening the background tiles. Let me know if you feel this is too dark/light! Older versions: DragonsDescent_6_13_2019.a78 Dragon's Descent has you explore countless mazes filled with monsters, treasure, and power - How long can you survive, and how powerful can you get, as you seek the masters of this endless labyrinth? Here's a preview with the first three levels - and the game has much more to explore, fight and find! CONTROLS Joystick - Move the dragon around the labyrinth. Button - The dragon will breathe fire in the direction it is facing, left or right. SETTINGS You can change the settings using the difficulty switches or choosing the options on the title screen. Infinite Maze Mode: Left Difficulty A - Game will continue indefinitely, only ending with a game over. Left Difficulty B - Game will end after you complete level 7 Random Maze Mode: Right Difficulty A - You will start in a randomized maze. Right Difficulty B - Maze will be the same layout each playthrough. Music: This option on the title screen toggles music on/off Maze Select (Make sure right difficulty is also set to "B") - Will allow you to set the random "seed" when starting the maze. Move the joystick left/right to select the left or right seed, each can be set to a value between 1 and 255. The levels are procedurally generated, but are always the same progression and layout, and can be mapped. HOW TO PLAY Depending on your game settings, you may find an end to the maze on the 7th level, or the maze can continue until you are defeated, trying to attain the highest score! Each level of the maze is made up of several rooms - you can leave through any exit on the boundaries of the screen you find. To make progress in the maze, find the key on each level, and then the level's exit. The exit, resembling a door with a key imprint, will only activate if you touch it while you have the key found on the same level. Upon each new level you will face more dangers but also potentially increased power and scoring! Avoid touching walls and enemies - doing so will deplete your hit points, and eventually end your game! Scoring comes from collecting gems and defeating monsters. You get more points for defeating monsters in deeper levels, and a slightly higher score for each shot you use with stronger fire breath. In addition to a key and exit, each level of the labyrinth has a treasure room. Treasure rooms allow you to pick one of three power ups, just wait until you see the one you want: Gem - increases your score. Heart - increases your total hit points, while completely replenishing your health. Lamp - increases the strength of your fire breath, while refilling its supply. Don't stay too long on a single level, or you may find things getting much more difficult! The deeper you explore, the more monsters, dangers, and higher scores you find... You hit points are shown next to the heart icon at the bottom of the screen. Your game will end when if the hit points reach zero. The strength of your fire breath is indicated by the color and size of the flame. If you collect a flashing lamp from the treasure room, it will increase in power but you will only have a limited amount, shown at the bottom of the screen next to the flame icon. If this supply ever runs out, you will go back your initial, weakened fire breath. You can find non-flashing hearts and lamps from fallen enemies, which will replenish a small part of your hit points or fire breath, respectively. If you survive long enough, you may reach a maximum amount of hit points or firepower, in which case your health or score will be flashing. [EDIT: Original post text] I'm still updating the graphics (the backgrounds are the last major element I need to complete) but I wanted to post a picture or two to compare, and share little bit of my experience in porting the game. Here's a screenshot from the 7800 version compared to the 2600 version (which you can find at http://atariage.com/forums/topic/286017-dragons-descent-rogueliteaction-game/😞 Here are a few more new screenshots as I update the background tiles, compared to the old playfield graphics on the 2600: Whew! On the one hand this was easier than I feared it would be, and worked as well as I hoped. The basic logic of the game didn't really need to be touched (it's 99% Basic) - as long as it didn't touch the graphics/collision detection. What took the longest was integrating/updating the new graphics - I actually find the system pretty fun to use, although there was a little learning curve, as with anything. I also realized that I designed the 2600 version of the game to take advantage of a lot of the older machine's quirks and limitations (limited sprites, good but limited collision detection, built-in mirroring, etc.), limitations that the 7800 often directly addresses. This actually made things more complicated than if I had decided to make the game for the 7800 first. I went from a pretty big Atari 2600 game (16k) to a very small 7800 game (32k) - mechanically it's a near-identical game, but after updating the graphics, incorporating the character/tile system, adding text to menus (hey, there's space/expectation for text now!) and updating the collision systems, the extra 16k filled up pretty quickly! The one thing I'm possibly looking to add is music - I have about 200-400k left as I look at the possibility of adding music, and fix some lingering menu bugs - The Basic music tracker included is very impressive, and would even sorta fit in the space available, but doesn't seem to play nice with the existing method I'm using to handle sound. I might see how far I can get with a more limited/customized method of storing/playing music - I know the TIA isn't the most melodious of chips, and music is not one of my creative strengths, but it's something I've been playing with regardless. I plan on posting updates here as I get the game releasable. It's perfectly playable at the moment, but I still have some old graphics and menus that need updating. I might post a few questions as I continue, but I've worked through a lot of unknowns so far - it's been a fun experience, and the 7800 is a pretty fun platform to work with - thanks to everyone involved with developing/supporting 7800 Basic!
  4. ****UPDATED October 20, 2017**** Scroll down to see photo's. Atari, Commodore 64 and Sega Master System controllers for sale. I've tried to make these a bit more budget friendly but still have a nice design with quality parts. I can do button placement on the right or the left of the joystick. PM me with special requests. The joysticks are made with IL Eurostick joysticks* with cherry micro switches. The buttons are concave Happ buttons. Cables and strain relief boot are brand new. Nyloc nuts are used to prevent loosening over time. The Atari joysticks work with both the Atari 7800 (two buttons) and the Atari 2600 (both buttons act as "fire"). * The iL Eurojoystick may be better known as the original HAPP Competition. iL (Industrias Lorenzo) is a Spanish manufacturer of high quality and extremely durable arcade parts. Originally known for manufacturing HAPP parts (such as the Happ Competition Joystick) until HAPP moved production to SUZO facilities in China, iL continued to provide high quality parts under their own label. Poorly lit video demo of joystick in use: https://youtu.be/0KPjN-yAEDI What I have to offer: Standard Edition in both Black and White. $68.95 Special Edition Controllers with Atari characters (Boxing, Q-bert, Pitfall, Etc.) $75.95 AND UP (Depends on design - see photo's/pricing below) Single button 2600 Edition $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Commodore 64 Joystick $63.95 (Works with the Commodore 64 and Atari 2600) Sega Master System (Mark III) $68.95 (Works with the Sega Master System) Orders are accepted for anything you see here. If it's not in stock I can make one for you. Lead time is usually 1 1/2 to 2 weeks depending on what parts I need to order. Shipping cost depends on location. It varies from $9 up to $17 (Priority mail with tracking). If you send your zip code I can give you an estimate. Paypal Accepted. STANDARD EDITION BLACK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION BLACK - RIGHT SIDE JOYSTICK: ($68.95) STANDARD EDITION WHITE: ($68.95) SPECIAL EDITION BOXING: ($74.95) SPECIAL EDITION Q-BERT: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PAC-MAN: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION DONKEY KONG: ($77.95) SPECIAL EDITION PITFALL: ($85.95) SPECIAL EDITION DOUBLE DRAGON: ($77.95) 2600 SINGLE BUTTON EDITION: ($63.95) COMMODORE 64 EDITION: ($63.95) SEGA MASTER SYSTEM (MARK III): ($68.95)
  5. SIO2

    Frogus

    Early WIP frogus07062017.a78 frogus07062017.bin You will probably recognize it as a clone of something. Rules are a bit different though. You must collect a fly to enter a gate / cave. Get killed and you must get another fly.
  6. Did ceramic caps replace the 104 0.1uf caps on c56 and c57 on the motherboard? I was told this would work in place of them https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=104pF&_sacat=0 Is this information correct?
  7. I was adding a power port to my Atari 7800 and the zener diode right next to the big capacitor next to original power port blew and I was wondering what type of zener diode i needed to get it running again like the watts and the volts
  8. So I got a banner acting like a sprite. This let me make a big ol' giant octopus. The giant octopus chases you around the screen. Although it is kind of easy right now to kill the thing. Perhaps I should make the giant octopus faster. I think I will. I have yet to work on the shark, I have spent about an hour or so on this, and the rest of my time was spent working on something else. I woke up at about midnight or so. But that doesn't guarantee me being awake at noon, since the past few days I have been even more sleepy than normal and fell asleep on the couch at about 9 a.m. or so. But I have to be awake at 11:45 for that appointment I can't miss Wednesday. Argh. Even if places were open at 3 in the morning I still have no way to get to them. Why must I be so sleepy all the time? Am looking to expand my 7800 collection a little. I ordered Froggie from the AtariAge store, although I'm not very good at Frogger. I would like to play GoSub when it's finished though, it seems like a fun game. But perhaps that's just because I'm the one working on it...
  9. SIO2

    Cyb Ur WIP

    A version of the Royal Game of Ur played by Vorticon rules. Currently requires a 7800 proline or compatible two button controller. Start is the right button. The left button selects the piece you wish to move. Move the stick left to move the pointer box counter clockwise, and right to move the pointer box clockwise. Press the left button to select the piece you want to move the rolled number of spaces. Object is to get all your pieces around the board before your opponent. The cells with 4 dots in corners are rosettes. Landing on a rosette grants player another turn. If your opponent occupies the 8th cell (center rosette) you can not capture it there. Otherwise you may capture opponent pieces in the center lane by landing on them with the exact number roll. The number of pieces on a cell is indicated by the digit contained in the cell. An exact roll is required to move pieces home. If you have no move the computer will tell you. Good luck. Hope you enjoy the game as much as I do. cybur0712.a78 cybur0712.bin
  10. The recent post about the Sears Telegames catalog(s) reminded me just how fascinated I am by this 1984 catalog put out by Atari Inc. that spotlighted not only the 2600 and 5200, but also the 7800. Not to mention a handful of unreleased titles and the Mindlink! It looks like it was a poster-style catalog, and given the number of things in it that never saw the (official) light of day, never mind the fact the 5200 was being pushed alongside the pre-Tramiel 7800, I can't imagine it was in print for very long or widely distributed. (AA has scans of the whole thing here.) So, my question is: how was this obtained back in the day? The easy answer is it came with games, but if so, which ones? My eBay searches haven't turned up anythng. Hits on the later Corp.-era "Atari Advantage" posters, sure, those are fairly plentiful, but I saw nothing regarding this particular poster/catalog. Can anyone offer any info? Does anyone (besides whoever provided those scans) have it? (I know I could have posted this is any - or all - of the 2600/5200/7800 forums, but I think most people 'in the know' will see it here just fine; no need to bombard!)
  11. I've been wondering recently if the bug that is present in the 320B graphics mode (One color of the palette only appearing if it is next to a different color within the same palette) is also present in 320C. I have not been able to utilize 320C graphics in 7800 Basic, so I am unable to test this myself. If anyone has any insight on this that would be awesome, thanks.
  12. Hello everyone: I am going to revive an old topic, emulating the Atari 8 Bit and Atari ST on the Nintendo Wii. I just picked up a Nintendo Wii, homebrewed it, and put on 5 Atari Emulators. I will post a few pictures here of what I have manaaged to get running after I fix the Hatari 0.005 on the Wii memeory card. I am using version 4.3U which allows me to use up to 128 Gig SD and USB sticks, have filled both up with games , the Atari 8 Bit games are a bit slow loading as I have over 2000 games on it, maybe I need to reformat the SD card into 4 32 Gig partitians IF the Will will support this. My Ultra Satan is using a super fast 16 GB SD card so I don't want to use it. Is anyone here interested in the Homebrew Installation process, as Nintendo no longer supports buying of games online and I must stress that IF I post a tutorial then its to be only for playing Atari emulators on the Wii. Anyone interested in this? I have looked everything up and there might be interest plus I know the best guides now. You can emulate the 2600, 5200, 8 Bit, 7800, and the Atari ST , Jaguar I am not sure about probably not although I have all of the roms that were ever made for these systems, and many more. My Mega Site is appoaching 225 Gigs of all good stuff, if needed I will post a link to it, just about every game that is missing here can be found on my site, I have been maintaining it for over 6 years at 1 TB of space and adding to it every month. Let me know if there is any interest here wth that too. Well back to my Wii Atari testing , pictures of games running on it are coming tonight. Sleep ???? You ask me ??? Whats that ???? Too busy with my Atari collection, oh ya I have a source of an Atari Portfolio ready in 14 days , the store has to hang on to it for 15 days and thnat was yesterday. He has told me its mine, anyone want it, comes with a 64 K card. Please post here if interested. Russ
  13. Hello Friends! I present my Top 33 Atari 7800 games (THAT I OWN)...obviously there are omissions because of this! The rankings are based on a variety of factors - fun factor, graphic achievement, animation, sound achievement, game control, game design, depth and replay-ability. A couple of notes: This list includes original releases and homebrews. Impossible Mission is criminally underrated on the 7800, likely because the version released was literally "impossible". Now that it's been fixed, it has vaulted all the way up to #2! Excellent mix of strategy, platforming, puzzle solving, timing, graphic achievement on the 7800 and animation. 1-16 are all top flight 7800 games, 17-25 are middle of the pack, and 26-33 get into the ''broken" or "semi-broken" category. I realize Sirius is a salvage of old code, and absolutely fills the side-scrolling shooter hole in the 7800 library, but is next to impossible to play through, and because of it, the fun factor suffers. I've never quite understood the ranking of Food Fight in the top 10 of a lot of 7800 lists I've seen, let alone top 5. It's a fun game, but it's single screen, repetitive gameplay and so-so graphics are not a great showcase of what the 7800 is capable of. As it stands, it is still better than similar titles like Robotron and Dig Dug, and the ranking reflects that. Without further ado, here's the list! 1. Rikki & Vikki 2. Impossible Mission (solvable version) 3. Crystal Quest 4. Mario Bros. 5. One-on-One Basketball 6. Commando 7. Ikari Warriors 8. Joust 9. Ms. Pac Man 10. Plutos 11. Xevious 12. Donkey Kong PK 13. Donkey Kong Jr. 14. Galaga 15. Centipede 16. Pole Position 2 17. Dark Chambers 18. Desert Falcon 19. Food Fight 20. Dig Dug 21. Robotron: 2084 22. Double Dragon 23. Xenophobe 24. Choplifter! 25. Rampage 26. Sirius 27. Touchdown Football 28. Scrapyard Dog 29. Hat Trick 30. Karateka 31. Fight Night 32. Super Huey 33. Realsports Baseball
  14. I can send pics over if needed, but it looks pretty good. No cracks or anything. Here's the deal- it powers on, boots up a game, but controller port doesn't seem to work? $50 shipped to the US (or best offer) Doesn't come with any power bricks/controllers/etc, just the console itself. Thank you!
  15. This one was based on suggestions from the community, and my own frustration with fast-moving games like Stargate that require two controllers. Two loose factory controllers are fine for the slower games, but unless you have a contraption that holds the two together, very frustrating for the fast games. Originally this was going to be for the Atari 2600 only, but a number of 7800 fans voiced a desire for one that would work with their favorite system, so why not? Especially with Robotron available on that system! The leftmost pair of buttons corresponds to the left joystick, and the rightmost pair to the right joystyick. The two toggle switches on the back shuffle the A / B buttons in each pair when used on the 7800. When used on the 2600, both buttons perform the same function. The two joysticks are digital, but have the smooth feel of analog sticks. Case is made of steel, so it's a bit heavier than the average controller, but well-suited for tabletop use. Felt feet ensure that your prized hardwood table won't get all scratched up. Too early to tell how many of these will be produced. Like what you see? Please contact me for any info not presented here. Larry
  16. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  17. So Given that there are a limited supply of pokey chips and that they mostly have to be taken from existing carts. There will be a time where they either get too cost prohibitive or push games like ballblazer to be rare. Given that wouldn't it make more sense to cannibalize one an create a pokey lock on cart like a game genie / Sonic and Knuckles. And carts that use the Pokey just lock on to the cart and gain the extra capabilities. Then the homebrew games don't need to worry about sourcing pokeys and all the other troubles and people that want the pokey can just use that one cart to boost the sound quality. What are your thoughts? Is this a dumb idea, do you think it is technically infeasible?
  18. I just recently created this pixel art image, while attempting to follow the limitations of the MARIA chip. This was the final result: I'd like to know what you guys think, and if you have any suggestions or tips!
  19. So I'm trying to get a 320B map displayed on the screen and I just can't get it to work. I'm using tiled to create the map and I'm not sure if my tile size is incorrect or what is causing the issue, but any assistance would be appreciated.If I comment out any code relating to the .tmx file, then the code compiles just fine. This is the code: rem * Journey to the West set doublewide off set tv ntsc set romsize 48k set screenheight 224 set basepath gfx_JourneyWest displaymode 320B set zoneheight 16 rem * color palette 0 P0C1=$0F P0C2=$2A P0C3=$45 rem * color palette 4 P4C1=$C9 P4C2=$38 P4C3=$C4 rem * load gfx & mapfile incgraphic wukong_front_top.png 320B incgraphic wukong_front_bot.png 320B incgraphic Tiles.png 320B characterset Tiles incmapfile Level.tmx init clearscreen plotmap Level 4 0 0 20 14 savescreen drawscreen mainloop BACKGRND=$00 restorescreen plotsprite wukong_front_top 0 80 112 plotsprite wukong_front_bot 0 80 128 drawscreen goto mainloop If you need to see the tiled file or anything else, just let me know.
  20. Hi guys: I started this around the beginning of October along with Trebor, PAC-MAN-RED, and Defender_2600. Wanted to get it done for Halloween, but it's not anywhere near done yet. I don't have a name for this yet, but it's a Zombie Apocalypse game, where you have to survive the night while being overrun by zombies. Here are some screenshots of the game for the time being: Coming soon! Bob
  21. Howdy all. So after hearing the amazing music on the Stella's Stocking and Mappy carts, I was wondering how that was done and if that programming wizardry would be possible on the 7800. I think it would be a great way to improve the quality of the 7800 sounds, without requiring an extra chip on the cart.
  22. Seeing as how: Rikki & Vikki was coming out next week ​I didn't have any good 2 button 7800 controllers I recently picked up a new Hyperkin GN6 controller from my local Fry's for $5.74 I had been checking the Atariage store for almost a year now to see if the Seagull 78 was back in stock A search of the forums 2 days ago lead me to this post by Inky back in 2002: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/14872-genesis-to-7800-controller-mod/ The above mod uses extremely common and easy to find components that I already had on hand... I decided to mod my new Hyperkin GN6 for use on my 7800. After doing this mod and using the controller on the 7800 I think it rocks. I love it. This is now my favorite controller for the 7800. Disclaimer: Any person undertaking any activity mentioned or alluded to, described below, bears all responsibility for anything that happens to themselves, others, or to any property as a consequence of their actions. Regardless of the contents and wording of this post or resulting thread, I make no claims, assurances, recommendations, or anything else. This is just a detailed description of what I did. Nothing more. The mod: This mod is completely internal so there is no adapter to connect. My total project cost was less than $7 and that includes the $5.74 controller and sales tax. Well that and 2 hours of my time. I will be modding a second controller so hopefully that will take a lot less time now that I've already figured out all the build steps detailed below. I printed out the schematic from Inky's post: First I had to map out the DB9 pin connections to the wires soldered into the PCB with my multimeter. Note the PCB number markings *DO NOT* correspond the the DB9 (joystick plug) pins! (The 1 marking on the PCB *DOES NOT* indicate pin 1 of the DB9 connector.) I marked the above schematic with the corresponding PCB numbering to make it easier for me to perform the mod. I recommend that if you do the mod you verify that the connectivity in my Hyperkin GN6 controller is the same as yours. You do not want to be re-opening the controller later to try and debug/fix any wrong connections. The inside of the controller looks like this: I built the circuit from the schematic that Inky posted on a piece I trimmed out of a PCB prototyping board. Be *VERY* careful of the method you chose to trim down the board as you could produce lots of fine dust that is likely very harmful if inhaled. If you can't do it safely, don't do it at all. Here is what the board looked like after it was trimmed: I soldered the components to my prototyping board and used some solid core copper wire from a multi-conductor cable I had lying around to make the jumper connections (black wires). I also soldered 3 wires (white, blue, and black) to the board for later connection to the Hyperkin PCB. I recommend using solid-core copper wire because the stiffness makes it easier to work with and also holds the completed circuit in place inside the controller so that it doesn't rattle around. (I don't use tape or anything else to secure the mod circuit inside the controller.) The resultant mod board: I removed 4 of the joystick cable connections (wires) from the Hyperkin PCB and connected them to the appropriate spots on my prototyping board. Be sure to use solder to bridge the contact points labeled "8" and "9" on the Hyperkin PCB. This bridging is on the reverse (solder) side of the PCB and is not shown in the picture below: Next I wrapped the mod board with at least 3 turns of electrical tape to prevent anything from shorting to the Hyperkin PCB once the mod circuit is completed. Solder the three wires (white, blue, and black) from the mod board to the Hyperkin PCB points as notated in the schematic in the first picture of this post (assuming your board maps out to the same DB9 pins that mine does). You are left with something looking like this (I hadn't yet connected the black wire when I took the picture below): Now fold the mod board over the front side of the Hyperkin PCB and fit the Hyperkin PCB back into the front half of the controller shell. It should look something like this: Close it up and screw it tight. You're done! The controller will look just like it did before you started:
  23. Who has modded their 7800 and what mods did you use? Everyone knows the limits of the stock video output of the 7800 and how it leaves much to be desired. What mods have you gone with and why did you choose to mod your system.
  24. So the writing is on the wall the original hardware may still work but many will not be able to hook it up. TVs are dropping the antenna rf port and analog av ports meaning if you don't have an HDMI or compatible signal you won't be able to hook it up to a modern TV. While there are clone systems that mimic the system there is nothing that gives real accurate low latency authentic hardware representations. So what can be done when no one is making these chips and they were never meant to be used with digital outputs. The answer is FPGA a chip that can literally change it's internal connections to mimic actual hardware and clone actual chips so you have a low latency authentic system that acts almost identically to real hardware but can be reconfigured to run on modern TVs. There is an open source project to resurrect and preserve gaming platforms in FPGA form that can be used by the community to create hardware projects commercial or personal. The name of the project is the MiSTer FPGA and they have working Atari 2600, 5200, Nintendo NES, Sega Genesis, Arcade Boards and other platforms. There are no 7800 cores but more than half the work is already done given the processor and 2600 chips are already there. Without someone's help the 7800 may fade to even more obscurity and will not be playable. Here are some links for further information: A news article detailing the project The 2600 core The hardware And Hardware Addons Wiki So what are your thoughts and what do you think the future or fate of the 7800 is?
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