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Showing results for tags '800'.
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$200 gtia ✅ rom ✅ ram ✅ keyboard ✅ connectors ✅ sound ✅ video ✅ left cartridge slot ✅ right cartridge slot ✅ Salt II test cartridge sold separately. Monitor is not included.
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Lot of Atari 8 bit computer and accessories. Atari 800 Computer in the box Atari 410 Program Recorder in the box Atari XM301 Modem in the box Atari 810 Disk Drive in the box Atari 1027 Printer in the box Axiom AT-846 Atari printer interface Sold as is. $700
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SOLD - Thanks for looking. 42 untested cartridges as a lot with several dupes. The yellow one with the faded label is Deluxe Invaders and the one with the glare that you can't read is Centipede. Entire lot for $168 price includes shipping to lower 48 (continental) United States only. I only ship to continental USA. That is $4 per cartridge (sold as a lot only) shipped. Bargain mate. Requires payment via Paypal prior to shipping.
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Hi, yesterday I´ve found an interesting thing, which I didn´t know until now. On pin "S" of the cartridge-slots of an Atari 800 there´s not the "PHI2" signal attached as on all newer machines - there´s "RAS" connected. The falling edge of PHI2 and RAS is nearly the same, but RAS is much shorter low than PHI2 (of course, there must be some time for CAS, too). Most modern circuits (in flash-carts or flashable carts) sample the PHI2 signal for their logic. So I think, this might be most significant reason for problems while writing to flash-memory or using special carts like the myIDE II. See the signals on the scope: So I try a little modification and use PHI2 on pin "S" instead of RAS. And these seems to be the solution... myIDE-II works now without any issues in an Atari 800 with Incognito. Also some other carts with suspicious failures works now. I test this on two Atari 800 equipped with Incognito. On one machine I take the Incognito out and re-install the old genuine personaliy and RAM cards. Also everything works fine. I have only one cartridge with "Write to cart" features which works on the original old 800 system: Telelink II. But this also works fine with that patch. If you want to do this patch by yourself, here´s a possible way: Cut the RAS trace on the place in the picture. Connect pin "A" and pin "S" on the "right" cartridge slot together - that´s all! This mod is independent which TV system you have, it works also on NTSC as on PAL or SECAM. Regards, Jurgen
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For Sale - I have likely 3 sets of spare Atari 800 key caps for sale. Individual keys $5/each plus actual shipping. See pictures for examples. [Update] I now have a few space bars too. All key caps are for the 800 only. NOT for the 800XL I have many cartridges for sale too if you need any we will just combine shipping with key caps. Thanks!!
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Hello, I am relatively new to the Atari 8 Bit world but am an original 16 bit STer. I just picked up my first 800 XL, purchased like 20 games off ebay- no problems. I bought a 400/800 Demon Attack cart and it doesn't load on the XL. So I bought another - same thing. Should I expect all Imagic carts not to load on the XL? Both carts were sold clean and tested. Do I need to buy an 800 to use these carts? Thank you.
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Decided to keep for now. Ya snooze ya lose 😝
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Dear Atari-Friends, Now that the ABBUC SW-Contest is finished, I am glad to present to you an extended Version of the contest runner up, now available for PAL/NTSC systems as free download. - there is a recommended 128k RAM version, which inlcudes a nice additional 3D rendered 256 color animation. In principle, this version will also run on any 48k/64k RAM A800 or XL, but will not be able to play back the 3D animation unless you have 128k RAM. BreakIt22Extended128k.xex - for reduced loading time on stock 800/XLs, there is also a 48k RAM version, which is identical except that it does not include the 3D animated scene, which does not play anyway on 48k/64kRAM machines. BreakIt22Extended48k.xex Compared to the initial ABBUC SW-contest, the here released extended version has the following addiiiotnional featues: - 12 additional theme-levels, reminding of Jump Man, Bruce Lee, Mario, Space Invaders, Pack Man, Pitfall, etc., just in time for the Atari 50 year aniversary 🙂 - 256-Color 3D-Animation Intro (plays on 128k machines, such as 130XE, or XL with equivalent RAM extension) - Various in-game music themes The game itself is a color and action loaded remake of Arkanoid, coming with additional power-ups, new levels, many many colors, combinable power-ups, and very lively game flow and speed. The current 2022 version supports Paddle/Mouse/Stick/Keyboard controls (cursor left/right & shift). The supported power-ups are as follows: • B: „Bomb“ - removes blocks one by one automatically, but the ball still has to be kept in the game • 😄 „Catch“ - allows to catch the ball and release it by the trigger • E: „Extend“ - increses the pad size • L: „Laser“ - allows to shoot at blocks • M: „Madness“ - makes the ball dance around like mad, but will remove several surronding blocks if activated in the right moment • P: „Pad“ - extra live • S: „Slow“ - slows down the ball • T: „Triple“ - splits into three balls • W: „Wall“ - keeps back the ball, but fades away with every hit of the ball • X: „Xplode“ - splits into three balls, once an enemy is hit • @: „@!#%“ - destroys the pad and will cost a live I hope you like the present version and have some fun, OliverNach obe
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Hello All! Everyone has been so helpful in my learning and repairing the 800 that recently came into my possession! Thank you all! I am wondering if I have an issue. I built a couple 8 bank carts. I put basic v1.0 on one and Monkey Wrench II on the other. My understanding is that I could put MWII in the right slot and basic in the left to get the added features of MWII in basic? The carts seem to work fine on their own, basic works in the left slot and MWII works in either slot (boots up to the machine language monitor). But when I put basic in the left slot and MWII in the right, I get a black screen. Am I missing something? Thank you, Ron
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I am trying to test some interesting mods to a nice 800. The 800 works great but I don’t know what I am doing with the mods. Obviously this unit has Omnimon! added but also at least one more mod (I think). Please see comments with the pictures. TIA for any help on helping me understand what I have. Note, an old Omnimon! manual tells me to hold down Option and press System Rest but that does nothing. This control module attaches to custom connector on the back. So far the only thing that does anything is… when the top 2-way toggle switch (‘pill’ label) is up, basic ?FRE(0) reports 29710 free when it is down it reports 37902 free (exactly 8K more free). I can not detect any kind of change with any/all other switch settings and combinations I have tried. Note: the right switch has 3 positions (up, middle, down). I have this label just above the two cartridge slots. It can not understand it. Or how it corresponds (if it does) to the blue control module). The words I can read from left to right are: Lower, Upper, View, Off, On, Atari, Newell? Personality board front and back. Two pictures of the rear most memory card 2nd memory card from rear. Front and back memory card closest to front does not appear to have any mods.
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Does anyone have a solution for replacing a broken/shattered screw post on the 800 top case? In particular, take a look at this example of the four posts that the 800 keyboard is attached to. The attached images show an example of a good/intact set of the four posts labelled "1" thru "4". When these shatter (due to over-tightening, age, brittleness, etc.) and you are unable to superglue them back together... what are your options? Here is my thought and I wonder if anyone has tried this. Challenge to all the 3D printer folks out there !!! My Ideas: 1) Post 1 may be tricky because it is so close to the RESET key however, posts 2, 3 and 4, if there were completely cutoff and sanded flat... could a 3D replacement post be made that has a large 1cm X 1cm square base? The base may be big enough to superglue into place. I think if the base/post angle were correct it may be worth a try. 2) If there is enough of a remaining post... something that could superglue over the remaining post and could then be cut to size. Call it a glued-on post replacement sleeve. Other ideas? Picture1 - Showing all 4 keyboard attachment posts (in good condition) Picture2 - Close-up showing posts 1 and 2 (in good condition) Picture3 - Close-up showing posts 3 and 4 (in good condition)
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And now I have my 800 multicart: AVGCart
AlwaysOnPlanetPatrol posted a blog entry in Rose-Tinted Recollections
After getting my 800XL a few days ago, I decided that I wasn't going to start a new cartridge collection for my new 8bit computer. I have too many things that I rarely use and to be honest, between my 2600 and 7800 games, I also just don't have the time. So enter the AVGCart! Received it two days ago and was just waiting for my work schedule to clear up so that I can have a nice couple of hours to set it up and play with it. I also ordered the SIO cable in case I came across any floppy/cassette images that I wanted to play, especially since I remember Bruce Lee being a disk-based game. After getting a memory card and just finding some roms, the process was easy. Of course for me, the first rom file I loaded was Bruce Lee. I did a quick cursory look for 1942 and Double Dragon, which I didn't find. Looking at the "D" folder I picked the Donkey Kong games and one of my favs on the 2600, Decathlon. Man oh man. Turning the computer on and seeing the menu was pretty cool. What I didn't expect was the excitement of actually seeing the BL game pop up on my screen and its music playing. When I started playing BL, all these memories started to come back. It didn't take me too long to figure out how to play the game, especially the jumping. After clearing the first 3 screens, I jumped into the underground level where I ended getting fried a few times by the electrical-looking fields. I also loaded up Decathlon. I have to admit, I like this version better than the 2600 and the C64 that I used to have. I played the first nine events, got 1000+ points in many of the events, although I got a nice zero on Pole Vault and didn't have the courage to tackle the final event, the 1500m race. I'm very impressed with the AVGCart so far. It works just like Concerto and Harmony carts that I have by providing me with a menu. -
All this is about original 400/800 "non-XL" machines: I am trying to use tf_hh's 400 RAM card to best effect by burning an EPROM with Fastchip and Omnimon for the 400/800. While I have found a lot of documentation I have not been able to collect the necessary ROM files (or at least to assemble them in a form that works on Altirra before I burn them). My understanding is that I need 8K of OSN OS ROM which is patched to allow, inter alia, access to Omnimon with System Reset + Option, 4K of Omnimon and (optional) 2K of FastChip which should be assembled in the following sequence: Fastchip C000-CFFF empty/zero D000-D800 (hardware registers) FP ROM D800-DFFF OS ROM E000-FFFF I would be happy with a single file I can burn but short of that appreciate any vectors on where to find working ROM files. There is documenation about an extended Omnimon and a combined Omnimon/ROMDOS but I understand these to require a RAMROD board that allows for bankswitching in the C000-CFFF area. As I will eventually try to use these on an Incognito 800 as well, would that support bankswitching of the OSN type in the C000-CFFF area?
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https://imgur.com/a/jnJskcQ I'm not sure how to connect them to a modern TV. I'm currently using a Computer/Antenna switch box into the coaxial on the back of a 2008 Sony Bravia. I am getting a black/dark green screen when I power up the 800. Any tips would be appreciated! -
SOLD FS - Atari 800 Great Looking and Works Great!!
800_Rocks posted a topic in Buy, Sell, and Trade
SOLD but I have others. PM me for details. I have an Atari 800 for sale 48K. Really good condition. Looks and works great. I’m asking $250 + shipping within the U.S. (which is generally $65). I gave it a nice bath inside and out and lubricated the cartridge door otherwise it was in great condition. I have been using it a lot and have done all testing I know how to do. No discoloration, no cracks, no chips, no major scratches. Keyboard is in great shape, all keys work, no keys sticking or loose. I will include a power supply and BASIC cartridge. We can also talk about other items I have for sale including: 100+ cartridges, books, manuals, joysticks, great working (restored) game paddles and many other items as well. Note: I have sold several 800s in the past few years. I know how to pack them well protected and have never had an issue with breakage on the receiving end.
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Dear 8-bitters Your advice on which Atari micro to purchase would be greatly appreciated! I thinking of getting back into the Atari 8-bit scene and plan using the machine with some regularity but am not sure if I should go with an Atari 130XE or Atari 800. To me the Atari 800 is very special indeed as it was my first micro computer so it holds an enormous sentimental place in my heart but then again I might be better off with a machine that has more RAM, has BASIC built-in and can enjoy a larger software base. In addition to this, I would like to get one of those newer hardware add-ons like the FujiNet which I know very little about but keep hearing about or an SIO to SD type of device, something I have also only heard about. The plan is to avoid the need for a floppy drive on either system and if I can load software from the LAN it would be pretty incredible. Can both the 800 and 130XE benefit from either of these hardware add-ons? Can the Atari 800 enjoy a RAM upgrade today and is it relatively affordable? What advice would you offer? Kind regards —Alex
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Hi everyone, Just discovered the website; I'm still looking through it. Amazing stuff here. I couldn't locate any answers to a question and Giggle led me here. - so i did search as well as I could ? - I have a few Atari 400s, 800, C-64s, ... and many Atari 2600 cartridges. Unfortunately I no longer have a 2600. I'm sure others like some games on the 2600 that are just not the same on the 400/800 machines. Just one example is Space Invaders. The 2600 version is simply the best one ever (over 100 levels of Space Invaders)... Anyways, would anyone here know if I can convert my ROMs (or if anyone has any magic) to play the cartridges (and or program) from the 2600 on an 8 bit Atari computer? all the best, Mortis....
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I have a new to me 800 that is in great condition overall. Video, keyboard, boots BASIC, plays Star Raiders and Centipede, etc. However, the Select and Option keys do not work. Where do I start troubleshooting? Thanks for ideas. (Start, Reset and all other keys work great)
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After my experience with 2600 Midnight Magic and the response I decided to try a whack at porting a simpler but motion oriented game, Seaquest. I don't intend to make a career out of porting 2600 games -- for sanity reasons, if nothing else -- but this was a fun little game I remember that was good for quick runs growing up, and I figured I'd try a game that was a bit more sprite heavy. Again, this is a close-as-possible port of the original 2600 game, based on the original binary code. Porter's comments: Midnight Magic was a 16K banked game, but Seaquest is just 4K. No banking to rip out. This time the porting cost was +0.5KB. Joystick 1/2 for controls, Start for Game Reset, Select for Game Select (1 or 2 players), Option flips both left and right difficulty. B&W/Color hardwired to Color. Default is easy difficulty, switching to hard slows down the shots. Like many 2600 games, this was made for NTSC and it will play slower and with a bit funny colors on PAL. Sorry, but the game doesn't have fraction tables and PAL GTIA colors are significantly different, and I'm porting these games as-is. Adaptation is an exercise left for the reader. Decoding sprite positioning from a 2600 display kernel... sucks. I had to duplicate some data to emulate player reflection. As I expected, repeating sprites would be a pain. Seaquest displays up to five 8-bit player sprites on a scanline plus a missile, so a straightforward mapping to GTIA sprites wasn't an option. Since only one of the players was repeated I reimplemented the enemies on top of the playfield. There's also quite a lot of interesting code in the game to deal with the case of you shooting out one of a group, by recomputing a new horizontal position and switching the NUSIZ1 pattern to match the remaining enemies, which took me a while to figure out (I couldn't figure out at first why the sharks were jumping when shot on some waves). If someone wants to try putting this in ROM, there was one location that I used self-modifying code (because I was lazy). Dethreading the player sub and torpedo from the entire display kernel was annoying, but the huge pain in the butt was the divers. It turned out they were rendered using the ball, by moving and re-sizing it on every scanline. Once I figured this out I was able to rip out a ton of the display kernel and remap the divers to a regular GTIA player. The entire display is shifted a bit left than I would have expected. I didn't notice this until I put in the sea bed and started comparing the position of everything. I've kept the existing positions, but one side effect is that you can spot sprites popping in on the right side. Based on the 40-bit playfield, I think this is correct and was intentional to prevent sprites from wrapping around HBLANK on the TIA, but I don't have a real 2600 to verify (the right part of the screen is cut off in Stella). Unlike MM, Seaquest does use hardware sprite collisions. Fortunately, GTIA's collision capabilities are a superset of TIA's and this was easy to map. The TIA 5-bit div 6 sound is a problem here again, this time more apparent as it affects the player shots. I've mapped it the same way, but it doesn't have the nice metallic sound. I thought about trying high speed IRQ emulation, but bands of background gradients made this difficult. seaquest.zip
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Hello guys! I need your help Atari 800, ATARI 800XL/600XL owners! If you guys own a caliber I urgently need to know which size in millimeters (or even better in keycaps unit 1U) the following keys: ATARI 800: - CONTROL key (to my measurements using pictures found on internet) 1.5U - LSHIFT key 1.75U as well as the RSHIFT - FUNCTION KEYS (Select, Start...) 1.5U - CLR SET TAB key 1.5U - RETURN key 1.5U ATARI 800XL - CONTROL key 2.0U - LSHIFT key 2.25U - RSHIFT key 2.0U - CAPS LOWR key 1.25U - RETURN key 1.75U - ESC key 1.25U - FUNCTION KEYS are spaced as 1U keysize. The only correct keyboard I can check is the Atari 130XE style... In attachment the PDF layouts of those keycaps (used by MaxKeyboard) and the keysize in keycap units. Please help me, Gianluca atari-800-xl-style-maxkeyboard.pdf atari-xe-style-maxkeyboard.pdf
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Can anyone give me any pointers as to how to diagnose a 400/800 RAM board? I have a 48k one and a 32k one and i feel ive done all that i can with them but I just keep getting the red/brown screen. ive checked traces for continuity where there should be and shorts where there shouldnt be. Ive checked the 4116 DRAMs work in a standard board and ive checked that the 4164 DRAMs work in an XL. The 48k one receives it's SEL4, SEL5, A14 and A15 connections from the Z103 socket (via a small piggyback PCB) and it also gets the RD4 and RD5 from the cartridge socket (via 2x wires). Does anyone know of a procedure for troubleshooting? Im wondering if the 74LS glue logic is at fault. cheers!
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My apologies if this has been covered somewhere but I've done a few searches and read through the restoration thread and have not found anything. The cartridge cover on my 800 doesn't open very well. When I release the latch, the door does not really move on its own. I can see that it could move but there is enough friction that it does not. I don't need it to spring open like a catapult, but I would like it to be smoother and free of binding. What success stories do people have? Are there non-damaging methods to lubricate the pivot points so I can reduce friction? Some oils can attack plastic. I would not want to risk softening the door or any surrounding areas. -
Hello, Today I had some free time and began making a Static 512k Ram Card for my Atari 800. (shits and giggles! every real expansion has already been made by smart people!) LOL! SO!!! Data Bus D0-D7 Address Bus A0 to A12 (8K for testing) So my question is..... R/W should go to Early r/w or late r/w?? or condition it with?? /CE to S0 (for 8k, for testing) eventualy S0-S5 AND'ed for 48k /OE where should it go?? Condition it with?? Later Ill add a data latch for memory banking.. Thanks In Advance!!
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As per the title , due to terrible packaging by an eBay seller! I'm in the UK so UK/Europe preferred
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Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
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