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Blogs

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  • Blogpocalypse
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  • creeping insanity
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  • Syntax Terror Games
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  • That's what she said.
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
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  • Guru Meditation
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
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  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
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  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
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  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
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  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
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  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
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  • Gernots A500 game reviews
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  • Zsuttle's gaming adventures
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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  1. Here’s an interesting article on the Tomy Pyuuta. There’s a picture of a small board with a v9958 that plugs into the Pyuuta and VGA enables it. This brings up a lot of very interesting questions 1. Can the board be reproduced or is for sale? 2. How is the Pyuuta able to disable the built-in TMS9918 and put output on the V9958 without doing any internal console modifications 3. How much VRAM is there on the board? Does it use VRAM on board or somehow accesses internal VRAM? 4. How old is the board? https://www.kernelcrash.com/blog/the-tomy-pyuuta/2023/10/08/ EDIT: some of the questions are addressed in the article, left here for discussion nonetheless.
  2. NEW! Vectrex Vectorlink Wired & Wireless Joystick Adapter #113 (limited white) https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW!-Vectrex-Vectorlink-Wired-and-Wireless-Joystick-Adapter-serial-number-113-(limited-white)/285693475981 eBay Seller: ductape Price US $0.01 (auction listing) Located in: Montgomery, Illinois, United States Item description from the seller Brand New! Vectrex Vectorlink Wired & Wireless Joystick Adapter #113 (limited white) From Sold Out Batch #3 (yes, batch #4 is coming soon, but if you can't wait please feel free to bid, thank you!) Please see product demo and manual here: https://playvectrex.com/vecstore/vectorlink If you are looking for a controller, recommendations are here: https://playvectrex.com/vectech/vectorlink/controllers Starting bid: $0.01 Comes with everything you see pictured except the metal tray! ALL 6 of the vectrex stickers and 2 vectrex magnets you see pictured are included! All proceeds from this auction will go back into making more Vectrex related products and content. Thank you! Please check all shipping options carefully. PlayVectrex "Design. Build. Play!"
  3. I'm starting this new thread for my Intellivision Flashback controller adapter cables. Yes, I've decided to start making these again after a long hiatus, since it seems a lot of folks missed out the first time around. As of writing this (September 3, 2021) I'm not quite ready to start, since I need to order more supplies. But things should get underway soon - I'd guess by the end of the month. For now the main purpose of this thread is to have a place to keep track of interest, and to let folks on Atari Age know the adapter cables are once again available. Please post here if you want to order some so I can get a rough idea how many I'll be making going forward. I have numerous old PMs and emails that were sent to the podcast email account the past couple years from people who wanted the adapters. At this point I don't know if those folks are still interested or not. I plan to follow up with as many as I can - and I'm going to try to keep it in the order the requests came in - but it's likely I may miss some people, so a post here would be very helpful. The price of the adapters is a little more than last time, due to supply cost increases (in particular, the parts needed for the Intellivision 1 adapters) and a little something for my time. This is a hobby after all, but I'm trying to keep the prices as reasonable as I can. Making the adapters is a time consuming process, especially the ones for the original console. Intellivision 1 Flashback Controller Adapters (for the original console, INTV, Radio Shack etc. variations with the "hard wired" controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your original model Intellivision, INTV System III, INTV Super Pro System, RCA Tandyvision, GTE/Sylvania Intellivision; basically any version of the Intellivision console that had the “hard wired” controllers. These are approximately 18 inches in length, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a 9-pin ‘motherboard/SIPP’ connector on the other. To install these, you need to remove 6 screws from the bottom of your Intellivision console, take the top cover off, slide the original controller connectors off the motherboard pins, and slide the adapter cable connectors onto those same motherboard pins (the adapter wires are routed out the same holes as the original controller wires). Put the top back on, and you’re done. It takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. You can then plug in your Flashback controllers with ease. Here's a YouTube video from Grey Defender that shows the process in detail. The cost is $34/pair + shipping. These are only sold in pairs. Intellivision II / Sears Flashback Controller Adapters (for the Intellivision II and Sears consoles with the removable db9 connector controllers) These allow you to use Flashback controllers on your Intellivision II or Sears Super Video Arcade (the consoles that had the easily removable ‘DB9 plug’ connectors on the controllers). These are 6 foot extension/conversion cables, with a male DB9-pin plug on one end, and a female DB9-pin plug on the other. The cost is $17 per cable, or $32/pair + shipping. Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal or Venmo. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal or Venmo. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com or flashback@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. I won't be accepting payments until I get the supplies and start making the cables. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail. I can also ship First Class Mail in a padded mailer for a little bit less, but you will have to pay for the mailer. With some exceptions, International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Original / previous thread, for reference: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/237113-intellivision-flashback-controller-adapters-round-2/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-4897648
  4. Hi! I was told I should post this here in the Atari 5200 forum along with the Marketplace forum. I made a batch of 30 Masterplay Interface clones for fun and practice with KiCad. They are based on the schematic at Dr. Scott M. Baker's website. I won't be making any more. They let you use Genesis controllers to play most of the Atari 5200 library. My own schematic and BOM are posted below. I'm selling them for $60 + shipping. This includes the Masterplay Interface clone, the custom keypad, and the extension cable for the clone. Satisfaction guaranteed. Returns accepted within 14 days. A few notes: - The acrylic top of the clone can be removed with 1.5mm hex bit to access jumpers. Rotate jumpers 90° to change button mapping. - Calibrate x and y axes with a small screw driver through the small holes on top. Games that can't be played with the Masterplay Interface clone: - Missile Command - Super Breakout - Kaboom! - Centipede - QIX works only after cycling the d-pad Thanks for looking! 97914581_PXL_20230204_215846042_TS2.mp4 1134455718_PXL_20230204_220001888_TS3.mp4
  5. Summary The Aquarius Printer is a 40 column thermal printer that uses a one-way serial connection. It was marketed for the Mattel Aquarius computer and Intellivision's ECS add-on. Its character set is fixed to match the Aquarius computer's character set. Each character is printed as a pattern of 7x10 dots. It has a 3-way switch on the back to control which parts of the Aquarius character set it can print. The switch settings are labelled as Text, Mixed, and Graphics. Contrary to what the Graphics switch setting would typically imply, there is no known way to print arbitrary pixel / bitmap graphics. The printer has a 40 byte buffer for printable characters. When transmitting data, the printer will not print until either the buffer is full, or until a newline or formfeed byte is received. On the front, it has a Power button and a Paper advance button. The Paper advance button does not advance the paper by a fixed amount; instead it advances the paper for as long as the button is pressed. Unlike many printers of its era and later, it does not have a "test mode" that can be entered by pressing and holding a button while simultaneously turning the printer on. While its interface uses standard RS-232 voltages and signaling, its connectors are non-standard, using a 3.5mm mono audio jack and a 2.5mm mono audio jack. An adapter cable is necessary to connect to a computer. Wiring diagrams are available for building adapter cables for connecting to a PC using a 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Software needs to be set to 1200 baud, 8-bit, no parity, 2 stop bits, and use hardware flow control that is either RTS-CTS and/or DTR-DSR hardware flow control depending on the adapter cable's wiring. Internally, it uses the Olivetti PU-1840 print mechanism and thus can use paper from other printers that use the same print mechanism (example: Alphacom Sprinter 40 and VP42). The Olivetti PU-1840 is controlled by a Hitachi HD6801V0P microcontroller. Output Modes Text Mode Only bytes in the ASCII ranges are printable (hexadecimal bytes 20 through 7E) as well as byte 7F. All other bytes do nothing with the following 3 exceptions: 0A, 0D, and 0C. The hexadecimal bytes 0A and 0D are newlines. A pair of these bytes is considered 1 complete newline. Thus 1 complete newline can be any of the following pairs: 0D 0A, 0A 0D, 0A 0A, or 0D 0D. The printer advances the paper one line on the first byte and drops the 2nd byte, as long as the 2nd byte is a 0A or 0D. If other values are inserted between the 2 bytes of a complete newline, the printer will advance the paper 1 newline, print the inserted characters, and then advance the paper a 2nd time (ex: 0D 20 0D). There is an issue where if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by printable data, the printable data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly. The hexadecimal byte 0C is formfeed. It advances the paper to next 1 page boundary, with 1 page being approximately 59 lines. Previously printed data is considered part of the page. For example, if 30 lines of printable bytes were sent followed by a 0C, the paper would be advanced 29 lines. There is an issue where if data is transmitted too soon, i.e. before the formfeed has finished, that data may be incorrectly printed in the middle of the formfeed or may be lost. Graphics Mode All characters are printable, based on the Aquarius computer's character set. However, after power up or a short delay between printing sessions, the data needs to be preceded by 0A 0D before the graphics data can be sent. The first 2 bytes of 0A 0D are not printed, but do cause a newline to occur. Any 0A or 0D that appears after the initial 0A 0D pair are printable characters and are not newlines. However, data can NOT be continuously streamed to the printer indefinitely. Somewhere between 880 to 920 bytes, the printer stops responding. It is recommended that long streams of data be separated into smaller chunks with short delays. Mixed Mode The same as Graphics Mode except that 0A and 0D are newlines. These bytes behave the same as they do in Text Mode. Unlike Graphics Mode, there is no need to prepend the printable characters with 0A 0D. There is an issue where, if too many newlines are printed followed immediately by data, the data is lost. It is presumed that the CTS signal back to the PC is not being processed properly or that the printer needs a brief delay after asserting CTS and receiving more bytes. Construction Major components: Hitachi HD6801V0P CPU: Hitachi's version of a Motorola 6801 (enhanced instructions, 4KB ROM and 128 bytes RAM on-chip, serial, GPIO) Olivetti PU-1840 2P Printer mechanism: 280 horizontal dots, thermal paper Hitachi HA17555: a 555 timer chip, presumed to control the baud rate The plastic case has 4 parts: the top shell, bottom shell, paper compartment cover, and the back panel. The back panel contains the serial connectors and the Text/Mixed/Graphics switch. It appears the back panel and the internal space next to it was intended to be replaceable to support other interfaces (Centronics? DE-9 serial? Commodore 64?). The top shell front internally has space for 2 unused punch-outs in the plastic, each with mounting points in an internal metal bracket. Potentially, these could support addition buttons and/or lights. Wiring Adapters / Cables Here are schematics for building either a wiring adapter to connect the Aquarius printer directly to a PC's 9-pin serial port or to the Intellivision ECS. Note that similar schematics elsewhere don't allow a direct connection to a PC since they require additional adapters like null-modem cables. Aquarius Printer Adapter Cables v1.pdf
  6. This is a scratchpad for some ideas I've had involving how to route audio and video from a CX-55 VCS Adapter in a 5200 with a UAV installed. First order of business: recap the current CX-55 and replace the voltage regulator. The video looks awful. The video looks awful when viewed via the 5200, which has a snow issue over RF that is likely in the modulator. If the modulator's in need of work to improve the 5200's video, then the same will apply to the CX-55's video. Next: build a circuit to power it and pull both audio and composite video directly from its edge connector. Need perfboard, a barrel jack (power), small toggle switch (power), and RCA A/V jacks. Cartridge port connector and A/V cable are already on hand. Everything is THT at 2.54mm. Current-limiting resistor / filter cap / both may be needed. CX-55 cartridge connector pins: 24 Composite Out 25 GND 26 +5VDC 30 Audio Out Alternative ground pins: 12, 13, 14, 23 Unregulated DC on pin 11 Pins 11 & 28 not connected (possible chroma / luma outputs?) Determine if audio / video levels are suitable for use without further amplification.
  7. Yes, Virginia, a UAV will fit in a CX-55. Disabuse yourself of the previously-held notion that it won't. A/V jacks may be a different matter entirely, so feeding out a cable (round or ribbon) with all of them connected to it may be necessary. This will involve drilling / cutting the case.
  8. I have a 2600 that won't come in on my TV. I have the RF plugged into an RF>coax adapter and into the (CRT) TV and when I turn it on the TV static goes wild but no picture. So I know it's getting power. I cleaned the game. I tried both channels 2 and 3 and even did a channel search but still nothing. Any suggestions? Could it be a bad adapter? I know the TV is fine because I just used an NES plugged with RF earlier.
  9. Hi everyone! I am attempting to play an Atari 2600 on a modern-day television. Specifically, on the LG - 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV. Its specs are a little different than your average digital TV, I believe. At least different enough to not be compatible with the recommendations I see for using an upscaler. Because it's not a 60hz TV; it's 120hz. And apparently that causes...interface problems with upscalers most ppl are using. So that's fun, right? LOL.... There is also some question as to HDMI being used, tho I am not entirely clear on the reasons associated with that. This model encompasses both HDMI 2.0 as well as HDMI 2.1 (thank goodness)....which other LG OLED models do not. Apparently HDMI 2.0 is getting "phased out"....but this model, thankfully, still allows its use! Something else of note....is the "Resolution" with this model. It's listed at 2160p (not 1080p)......is that unusual? I expected it to be 1080p. And since that is double what other models I've seen list, how does that impact use of an upscaler, or even use of an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) in this process of getting the Atari 2600 to play (well) on this model of TV? Here are the full specs of the TV in question, the one that will be used to play the Atari 2600 on. From the BestBuy website: ___________________________________ Specifications Key Specs Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Refresh Rate 120Hz Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant General Product Name 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV Brand LG Model Number OLED77CXPUA Series CX Series Model Year 2020 Color Silver Color Category Silver Dimensions Product Height With Stand 40.3 inches Product Width 67.8 inches Product Depth With Stand 10.6 inches Product Height Without Stand 39.1 inches Product Depth Without Stand 2.2 inches Product Weight With Stand 79.1 pounds Product Weight Without Stand 58.9 pounds Adjustable Stand Width No Box Dimensions Height 44.5 inches Width 74.6 inches Depth 11.2 inches Display Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size 76.7 inches Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Picture Quality Enhancement Technology Cinema HDR Curved Screen No Refresh Rate 120Hz Closed Captioning Yes Language(s) Displayed English, French, Spanish 3D Technology No Features Remote Control Type Magic Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Capable Yes Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Screen Mirroring Yes Screen Mirroring Technology Miracast Indoor Or Outdoor Use Indoor Text-To-Speech Yes Video Description Yes V-Chip No TV Tuner Digital Connectivity Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Number of HDMI 2.1 Inputs 1 Number of HDMI 2.0 Inputs 3 HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC) Yes Number Of USB Port(s) (Total) 3 Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 Ethernet Port(s) Yes RF Antenna Input Yes Bluetooth Enabled Yes Bluetooth Version 5.0 Network Compatibility Built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet Number of RS-232 Inputs 1 Headphone Jack Yes Number of Digital Optical Audio Outputs 1 Number of Component Video Inputs 0 Number of Composite Video Inputs 1 Number of DVI Inputs 0 Compatibility VESA Wall Mount Standard 400mm x 200mm Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant Audio Built-In Speakers Yes Built-in Speaker Type Front firing Surround Sound Supported Dolby Atmos, OLED Surround Speaker Output 40 watts Power ENERGY STAR Certified No EPEAT Qualified No Estimated Annual Operating Cost 38 United States dollars Estimated Annual Electricity Use 313 kilowatt hours Rechargeable Battery (Remote Control) No Number Of Batteries Required (Remote Control) 2 Number of Batteries Included (Remote Control) 2 Included Stand Included Yes Cable(s) Included AC power Warranty Manufacturer's Warranty - Parts 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty - Labor 1 Year Other UPC 719192637177 ___________________________________ Thoughts on what type of upscaler (if any) or OSSC (if any)......to use to get this done? Really need to play the Atari 2600 on this TV!! Man I hope there is a solution to be found. I'm open to any and all suggestions!!! Please let me know what should be used; the things to get and use, etc....even if they are not OSSC or an upscaler. I just want to know how to play Atari again, on a modern TV; how that gets done though eludes me. Pls forgive the n00bishness. <3 Thanks in advance for any and all help! With appreciation, froggerchamp ---
  10. It'll be hard to go back to playing them on a Sega Game Gear after this.
  11. The test cards fit the Kurz-Kasch TF-650 test fixture and the ROM adapters fit the Kurz-Kasch ROM tester. If you happen to have any, run across any or know someone who may have a few please let me know! The test cards and a ROM adapter are pictured below. Thanks!
  12. Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
  13. Hello there, TL;DR any help on Intellivision flashback controller to Intellivision I pinouts? 1) successfully made an Intellivision flashback to Intellivision ii adapter via posts like this: 2) Tried to make it to a similar pinout but with a DuPont connector header via this mapping: https://arcarc.xmission.com/Web Archives/Deathskull (May-2006)/games/tech/intvcont.html 3) no luck, I get a bunch of buttons and some trigger side buttons but no wheel. 4) anyone have guidance? I have duponts on the cable so I am correct the mapping if I am missing something. if anyone has an existing Intellivision I to Intellivision flashback adapter and could take a multimeter to them and tell me the pinout that would be sooo cool of you. tried to buy one but the OP of these hasn’t replied. No worries though figured I’d try my hand at trying to get better with soldering/learning electronics. any help you could provide would be sooooo appreciated, thanks !
  14. Hi! I made an Atari adapter for use on my colecovision. Just wired female adapters to a singular male controller cable. It works just fine on my 2600daptor but, I am hesitant to use it on my colecovision console. I just wired all the same wires to the same wires so my thought was both controllers have a common GND and the dpads matched but I can use an Atari stick rather than the colecovision? is this safe? Did I do something silly/not recommended?
  15. Playing Atari 7800 wirelessly!
  16. Hello, does anybody have an Adapter to connect an Atari Jaguar Joypad with a PC or know where i can buy it? Best regards Patrik
  17. Hey guys, I'm starting this new thread for the various adapters I make since the old thread was getting a bit long, and the original posting didn't contain the various adapters I now offer. The original thread can be found here. Here is the current lineup of adapters and extension cables I have for sale: Intellivision 1 Flashback Controller Adapters (for the original console, INTV, Radio Shack etc. variations with the "hard wired" controllers): These are $24/pair (only sold in pairs). Approximate length is 18 inches. Intellivision II / Sears Flashback Controller Adapters (for the Intellivision II and Sears consoles with the removable db9 connector controllers): These are $14 each, or two for $26. If desired, you can specify the color of the decorative heat shrink tubing near the cable ends. Black is also an option. If not specified, you will receive whatever color I have in stock at the time. Approximate length is 6 feet. Standard db9 controller extension cables - 6 foot length (for Intellivision II / Sears consoles, Atari 2600 / 7800, Sega Genesis, Atari and Commodore computers; basically anything that uses a standard db9 type connector): These are $7.00 each. Colecovision Y-Adapter cable - allows connection of standard Colecovision system controller and an additional compatible joystick (Atari 2600, etc) without the need to unplug / swap controllers one at a time. Should work fine on other consoles that use db9 connectors - but only tested on a Colecovision): These are $12 each. If desired, you can specify the color of the heat shrink tubing, including black. If not specified, you will receive whatever color I have in stock at the time. Approximate length is 24 inches. ----------------------------------------------- Please send me a PM here on Atari Age if you are interested in any of these cables. Include your shipping / address information, and preferably an email address, and I will get back to you with a total. Payment is via PayPal. Credit cards (processed through my business - White Flag Computing) are also an option if you don't use PayPal. You can also email adapters@intellivisionaries.com instead of sending a PM if you prefer. Shipping is not included in the above prices. USA orders will be shipped via USPS Priority Mail (usually flat rate small box, which is $6.80 - the price went up January 2016, it used to be $5.95). I can also ship USA orders via First Class Mail in a padded mailer for a little bit less. International orders will be shipped via USPS International First Class (padded mailer - price varies depending on weight and destination). Thanks!
  18. I've tested and completed my review of the latest and greatest Atari 5200 controller adapter made by Atariage member, Ikonsgr. It's essentially a bohoki-clone that enables you to use PC 15 pin controllers on the SuperSystem. In the video, I've demonstrated a good number of analog and digital PC controllers (gamepads, keypads, joysticks, steering controllers, and flight yokes) being used to effectively play 5200 games. Some of these controllers have the ability to be used as both analog and digital controllers (Makopad PC gamepad, Radio Shack gamepad, and the Vortex 3D), right-hand/left hand switching digital gamepads (Gravis PC Gamepad and the Reveal Gamepad), and there's even one which has the ability to switch between self-centering and non-self-centering ("dead-fish stick") analog joystick control. Check it out:
  19. Maybe someone at sometime will find this info useful. The Model III and 4 has a single 50 position I/O bus port for expansion. A company called Alpha Products used to sell a cable that allowed you to daisy chain multiple peripherals on that port. Unfortunately those haven't been available since the mid 80s. The port is a 50 position card edge. 50 position ribbon cable and female connectors are easily sourced. Amazon has the best price on the female connectors; less than $20 for 5. Anything with a 50 position card edge is next to impossible to find these days. Also each "finger" on the board needs to connect from top on one side to bottom on the other. The Radio Shack Hi-Res board came with one as a pass through. I recently found a source for dirt cheap prototype trans boards that can be modified in about 1 minute. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pc622.html Syntax PC-622. These are 62 position and already have the reverse side connected. A cutting wheel on a Dremel will easily make it into a 50 position. You'll also want to bevel the edge a bit with a flat file. My port currently has the Hi-Res board (looped from inside like factory), FreHD (hard drive) and an Orchestra 90 all getting along together. I also have a mouse interface for CAD which I'll try as soon as I get a RS mouse.
  20. Although this is slated for a bigger upcoming project, I figured it would likely be useful in a stand-alone application as well. Since I have a new compact motherboard design that will require an internal mouse interface with the ability to easily switch between joystick ports, and if desired completely disappear (stealth mode), I began work on a new mouse interface chip for the A8. It could have just as easily been used in an Atari ST, or with a bit of code finagling also made to work in an Amiga. Initially I looked at some of the GPL PS/2 mouse-to-ST/Amiga offerings, thinking that I would simply add what code I needed. However once I dived in, I quickly decided this would not be a good way to go, and so began my journey to write mouse code from scratch in my favorite development application FlowCode. Anyway suffice it to say i am probably 85% done, with the last 15% dedicated to supporting mouse movement acceleration (very tricky stuff). So here's a look at how this new mouse chip will be implemented in my new project, along with of course a TK-II keyboard chip (this schematic shows part of the I/O section). Unlike the mouse support that existed on the early versions of TK-II firmware, and then was later abandoned, this one has true ST mouse emulation as its primary goal (plus some enhancements). Yes I know people would love to have a USB mouse instead (as well as a USB keyboard interface), but with all that I have going on I'm afraid this is the best that I can presently do. Especially considering the learning curve required to implement this in USB as well likely needing to switch over to a different processor family to really do it right (yet another learning curve to climb). Besides despite what the rumors would have you believe, there are plenty of NEW PS/2 mice and keyboards still available, as well as some that offer wireless support. And lets face it, PS/2 protocol is a hell of a lot easier to work with. Ohh and did I mention that I get lazy from time to time . Anyway I doubt if I'll be making any PCBs for stand-alone plug-in usage, but if someone is ambitious, I will be providing the PIC MCU Firmware (in JOY2PIC and Microchip file versions). Stay tuned for more info and eventually the firmware release. - Michael
  21. Masterplay alike adapter with support for Sega Genesis (3 or 6 button) and Nintendo (NES or SNES) controllers and provides START and PAUSE keys functionality for convenience. Remaining functions can be accessed by a standard joystick connected on the 16 vias IDC connector on the board. Buttons and keys are mapped as follows: Two printed circuit boards available. Compact board measures 1.6"x1.6" (41x41mm) A second version of the board fits inside a Hammond 1593J case: Work in progress. Project repository available at Github
  22. This adapter was named after The 8 Bit Guy that came with a SNES layout for a game that he is developing (for Commodore PET/64) that have controls very similar to Robotron, where the directional Pad controls the movement while the X Y A B buttons control the shooting direction. Full keyboard control is provided using the SELECT and START buttons as Alt/Modifiers keys The connections to the Atari 5200 should be done by use of two cable extensions. If cable on Port 2 is not connected the X Y A B buttons behave like TOP/BOTTOM buttons. The adapter should also support the NTT data controller. Like the regular SNES controller the X Y A B buttons revert to TOP/BOTTOM when the cable on port 2 is not connected. The circuit shall also provide support for NES controllers, though with limited keypad support. The connection to the SNES controller should be done by cutting an extension cable and soldering the wires to the PCB. The PCB is designed to fit within a Hammond 1593J case. Base code is ready. Next step is prototyping. Murray-BaseCode.zip
  23. I am working on another design of a controller adapter for the 5200. It shall be used together with a 6 button Megadrive/Genesis controller to provide full keypad functionality. Ready: - Schematics; - Preliminary PCB; Work in progress: - Code (90%). Todo: - Testing; - Documentation.
  24. Sega Genesis adapter for Atari 2600/7800 (WIP) Button A : Fire (2600 / 7800 ) Button B : Top/Thrust (2600) / Left button (7800) Button C : Front/Trigger (2600) / Right button (7800)
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