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Blogs

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Found 14 results

  1. Complete collection listed here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WdZz7mJ4F1Xn1H7zAAObp5b8AxDTzlNVmze1UyTRIJY/edit?usp=sharing All Atari 8-Bit plus one Atari ST Located in the San Francisco Bay Area. Local pickup is an option. Pictures are linked in the spreadsheet. Here again for easy browsing: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0giWEFHh5xegaBr-d5IuIDLHQ
  2. I have two of the harder to find Atari XEGS-branded game cartridges for sale, Donkey Kong and Crime Buster. As a reminder, the latter requires the XG-1 light gun. Both are cross-listed on eBay for $69.99 and $49.99, respectively, but I'm always willing to sell for less through AA. If you want both, I'll provide the best possible discount. The most recent Donkey Kong XE cart-only eBay sale was for $79.99 plus shipping. There are no recent sold listings of Crime Buster. I'll cover shipping for you. A prior owner wrote "Crime B." on the side of Crime Buster but it's very faint. Please see pics for exact condition of the carts. Thanks!
  3. Hi! Been awhile... after my dad passed away, I wound up moving, and the move gave me an ulcer... life sucks sometimes. Anyhoo, I finally got around to unpacking my 65XE and found I needed a stick. Not content with the old 2600 stick, I decided to make my own. So I looked over the threads to see what other people were doing, then decided to do it better. ? I love my Sega Genesis control pads. They're the best of the old systems. And the old 3-button pads (which actually have four buttons) looked to be a great place to start. I figured that I could make B the standard trigger, A the secondary trigger most people do for 8-bit/2600 pads, and then make C the same as up. On old 8-bit systems with their single button, up was jump on a great many games, so making C the same as up means that you have a jump button right next to the trigger button. That leaves a potentiometer line open, so I hooked that to the START button. So my control pad has two triggers, a jump button, and a separate START/PAUSE button. Noice! So let's get this puppy going! First, take the control pad apart. It's easy - there's just several cross head screws on the bottom. No special tool required. The PCB will look like this Ho! Lucky!! It's not surface mount. Older pads are like above, and newer ones are surface mount. The procedure to convert into an Atari compatible pad is exactly the same, it's just a lot more fidgety soldering. So I really lucked out on that one. So, next we remove everything but the cable. Yes, everything. Now you want to swap cable pins 5 and 7. Next, bridge IC pads 3 and 4, 6 and 7, 9 and 10, and finally 11 and 12. Solder a wire between IC pads 1 and 14. Then solder a wire from the pads that used to have the pull-up resistors connected to C and UP. Finally, solder 330 ohm pull-up resistors in place of the original pull-up resistors on A and START. The size of those resistors isn't that critical. I used 330 ohms because that what was suggested in the original A2600 two-button stick document. It could be anything between 200 and 6700 ohms. The smaller the resistance, the more power it takes, but also the quicker it will charge the potentiometer line. If you've done it all correctly, it should look like this Note the 1/8th watt resistors. Is that okay? Hmm, P = V^2/R, so 25/330, or about 76 mW, which is about 1/13th of a watt. So, yeah, it should be fine. If you wanted to use a resistor below 270 ohm, I'd suggest going with a 1/4th watt resistor instead. A quick check with the volt-ohm meter to make sure nothing is shorted and put it back together. See? Not that hard. Well, maybe this might help... it's some notes I made to keep it all straight in my head... And finally, here's a link to an arc of all the images, and a tiny test app that will show your new control pad in all its glory! Source is included. I assemble my A8 stuff using atasm these days, but you could also use M65. http://www.mediafire.com/file/kkwkb99zjwu5fyp/SegaJoyPad.7z/file
  4. The Adventures of Bounty Bob, brave Cananian Mountie on the trail of Yukon Yohan. Bounty Bob, who looks neither like a Mountie, nor like the miner on the box covers and as the title would suggest. Until now. With sprite designs by TIX, and sprite hacks by your's truly, I introduce to you the burley Miner 2049er! Click here to download Prior revisions and the thread on how this was hacked here
  5. This is a call for brave volunteers to patrol the lunar surface to protect the citizens against visiting riff raff. Seen above is a sprite hack of the Atari 800 version to something more like the Arcade*, with all background and buggy character color matched to arcade screen shots. The latest rom to try is here: moon-test-n2b.bin How you are needed: At current we are getting conflicting color reports... ... Altirra (Windows under Wine) is the larger image left and the small image to the lower right was taken from Atari800OSX. Can someone please try the above image on real hardware and report your results/screen shots/pictures to the hacking thread? There are more technical programming questions regarding this that can be found on this programming thread. * Sprite hacks drawn and hacked by TIX. Technical research and color alters by DoctorClu.
  6. So the Return of Heracles is a game that is mostly joystick driven except for one part of the game where you are stopped by the Sphinx for the "riddle of the ages" which is: "What walks on four legs in the morning, two in the afternoon, and three legs in the evening?" To which you type on the keyboard "man". Currently trying to get this game working on a system without a keyboard so typing that would be a stopping point in the game. Is there any way to hack a way past that? Return of Heracles attached below if someone would like to take a crack at it. Why? ------------------------------------------------- Been playing with prototype emulators, one if the Atari 2600 emulator for the Atari Jaguar, and using what I learned there, I am thinking of trying the same trick on the Atari 800 emulator for the Nuon. The_Return_of_Heracles.zip
  7. I am working with a character set in RAM (copied from ROM) using an example program from ANTIC Magazine. In the article it replaces the ampersand symbol (&) and says that it is located at decimal number 6 [CHR$(6)]. But I am on an XE system and I have noticed that the entire ATASCII character set has been rearranged on XL and XE systems compared to the original 400/800 models. Is this the reason for the need of a translator cartridge? I am sure that there are other reasons as well but this might change the way I need to develop any programs for the Atari 8-bits. To make sure that programs written on one machine will work correctly on another, is there a way to POKE somewhere to tell what type of Atari computer a person is using?If not then I will have to let the program ask the user what Atari they are using so the character set can be correctly loaded. Are there any other differences I should be aware of (besides CTIA/GTIA and controller port differences)?
  8. Hello, Anyone know if was made any Yars Revenge game Version for Atari 8 Bits Series?. Any comment are welcome. Regards
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