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Showing results for tags 'Booster'.
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Hey, y'all. I'm in the process of spring cleaning over @ Amibay, jettisoning some goody oldie PC hardware. Figured why not try and oust some of my vidjagame stuffs here, while I'm at it? So I pulled out a LOT of stuff. Here's most of what's available: Systems: - Turbografx-16 w/Turbo Booster - Mega Drive 2 (two different models) - Genesis 3 - Super Nintendo (European, console only) - Super Famicom (console only) - Game Boy Advance (white) - Game Boy Advance SP (silver) - Game Boy Color (see-thru purple) - Atari Lynx w/original carrying case - Atari Lynx II (stuck power button; system works fine) - Super A'can (console only) - Pioneer Laseractive w/Sega PAC <- SOLD - JVC X'Eye <- SOLD - Mega Jet <- SOLD - Nomad w/original carrying case <- SOLD - Sega CDX <- SOLD - Atari Lynx II (no battery cover) <- SOLD - Game Boy Light <- SOLD - game.com <- SOLD - game.com pocket pro (green) <- SOLD - game.com pocket pro w/backlight (grey; no battery cover) <- SOLD Accessories: - Kisado Connector (Turbografx-16) - Avenue Pad 6 (PC Engine) - Arcade Card Duo (PC Engine), complete - Mega Key (Genesis) Games/software: - Doom, Mortal Kombat II (32x), carts only - Bonk's Adventure, Bonk's Revenge (Turbografx-16), complete - Robotrek (SNES) - Street Fighter II' (PC Engine), complete - Galactic Pinball, Red Alarm, Flashboy Plus w/Hyper Fighting demo (Virtual Boy), carts only - Pokemon Crystal, Pokemon Blue, Pokemon Gold, GB USB smart card 64M (Game Boy/Color), carts only - Socrates Interactive CD (NTSC CD32), complete - Flash 2 Advance 256M flash card w/Mother 3 translation (cart only) - GGPro flash cartridge (Game Gear) - Double Dragon V: The Shadow Falls (Jaguar), complete I'm taking offers for everything. Please send by PRIVATE MESSAGE. I'll consider them all & we'll see what we can do. Note that I am NOT interested in trades. I have photos available for your viewing pleasure as well, just ask. Notes: The Sega systems -- with the exception of the Nomad, CDX and Laseractive which I properly protected -- have some scratches on their tops, due to them all just sort of resting casual-like atop each other in the tub. The "tub-'o-Sega-stuff" has a whole pile of controllers, AC adapters, and A/V cable thingies at the bottom, just waiting to welcome you. So if you buy a system from me, make sure to specify if you'd like something extra. So, yep. Feel welcome to get in touch by PRIVATE MESSAGE if you're interested in having a rap about this neato, OMG SUPER RARE LQQK!!* collection. Oh... and for the love of God, please don't litter the thread with annoying "PM Sent!" responses. Think of the children. Thx. * - "OMG SUPER RARE LQQK!!" is subjective.
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1. Replaced new micro switches on trackball mouse 2. Replace RTC battery, new holder and battery 3. Recapped mother board 4. Replaced ED back-light on the display 5. Installed new Mylar keyboard inlay 6. Installed 16 MHZ booster 7. Installed HxC disk drive emulator 8 Installed Ultra Satan 16 GB SD card HD, Removed Atari SCSI controller and HD 9. Replaced all port covers 10 Replaced original Atari 720k disk drive What a joy it was. Hopefully it will last for some time to come. I would like to do a switchable TOS 1.04 and 2.06 but I need the modified TOS rom images for 2.06 to work with the Stacy's Shadow chip. Hopefully some one here might have those rom images Thanks Rob
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I wanted to add a post here with regards to installing the STE 32Mhz booster by exxos, as although it's already on Facebook, if you're not a group member, you wouldn't see it. So, here goes The tools. I used a fairly standard set of small side cutters, temp controlled soldering iron, small forceps (For removing the old PLCC pins), flux, desolder braid, plastic levers (iPhone screen removal tools) and a large eraser. More on that later. One thing that isn't visible is the illuminated hands free magnifer, which is essential for the fine soldering. Total work time for this was about 4-5 hours for me, bearing in mind the TOS switcher had already been installed, and I had already preassembled the booster. Personally, I'd do the TOS switcher first and make sure it works before you move on to the booster. Starting PLCC removal using the pin method suggested by exxos in his instructions(http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/removal/index.htm). It works, so use it. All pins lifted. Again, the instructions from exxos worked up to this point. I tried lifting the socket after snipping the leads, but no movement at all. Since the socket wouldn't lift, I decided to cut it into smaller pieces as per exxos. This is the first 'Gotcha' for me. The socket didn't cut into smaller chunks, it disintergated into small pieces leaving this very tough baseplate behind. This is where you MUST use plastic tools, or you'll destroy the tracks on your mainboard. This is where the 2 blue plastic levers came in. I had to trim the pins a second time, then work my way around the edge with the levers to lift the baseplate. It's desolderin time!! Baseplate off, pins ready to desolder. Follow the instructions by exxos for this part. TIP:- I used small forceps with serrated jaws for manipulating the pins, as they were easier to handle than the needle nosed pliers I own, which lost grip as the jaws were not serrated. exxos has already mentioned the "Gotcha" around the power pins, take your time, they do take longer to desolder. This shot is all pins removed, but solder is still present in the thru holes. Again, the PLCC removal guide by exxos is good up to here. TIP:- TAKE YOUR TIME, rushing will just hurt your chances of a good job. My next TIP comes here, cleaning the solder from the thru holes. I used 1.5 mm solder wick, and rather than put flux on the board, my flux was quite thin, so I DIPPED the wick into the flux. Get your soldering iron right in the middle of the hole, and on top of the wick. Be paitient, it takes a second or two, but the solder will melt, and the flux in the wick will help it flow, and you'll see the wick turn silver. Don't be tempted to re use wick, it won't work, just regularly trim the used parts away and discard. TIP:- if a hole doesn't clear of solder right away, move on so that you are not constantly heating the same part of the board, which can damage the tracks and vias. All cleaned up! I had a few holes that half cleared, the TIP here is to refill the holes with fresh solder, then use the wick again to empty them. Hold the board up to the light to confirm they're clear. After trimming the pin strips, I dropped them in to the mainboard as a trial run. TIP:- Here is where the eraser comes in.Put 2 of the inner pin strips into the booster board, then push the whole thing into the eraser, making sure the pins are well aligned. Solder the 2 end pins of each strip. Repeat until all of the pin strips are held in by just 2 solder joints at each end, as this will give you a little wiggle of the pins so you can get them into the mainboard. Insert the booster, and hold it in place with tape or blu-tac, and solder just 4 of the outside row of pins at the ends. TIP:- good alignment is critical here, before you move on to soldering the rest of the pins, so just soldering a few will give you a chance to wiggle things around. When you're happy it's all in a good position, solder the rest of the pins on the mainboard side, then the rest on the booster side. All soldered in, awaiting final wiring. All wiring completed, with a switch for 8/32 Mhz and Tos 1.62/2.06. Just need to mod the case for the switches. Just to the left of the yellow clip, you can see the 1.44 Mb fdd mod, also from exxos, that I installed at an earlier date. Booted up to TOS 1.62 at 32Mhz. Booted up to TOS 2.06 at 32Mhz. Now this is completed, I'll need to get some benchmarks run, and I've had some requests to run certain games/programs at 32Mhz to see just what the difference is. I'll post more on that when I have time, and when my floppy drive is fixed and working again Thanks to exxos (Chris Swinson) for all the support, and the time, effort and money he puts into developing these awesome upgrades. His guide can be found here: http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/V1STE/