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Found 24 results

  1. What do you hook your retro consoles into? I haven't had a CRT TV in my house for several years now, so I've been plugging into an HD TV for a while. But I recently bought a huge tube-type from a friend of mine for $20, and it's made a pretty big difference in my opinion. No black bars on the sides, the pixels aren't so sharp, etc. There's something so nice about living in a world where everything is "smart" and then plugging a console without an operating system into a TV without an operating system. What's your opinion? Does the kind of TV really matter to you? Do you prefer HD TVs for retro games?
  2. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider branding
  3. Saw this and thought of the retro classic folks here, and all the CRT-lovin' that should probably get its own sub forum. http://kotaku.com/smash-bros-melee-tournaments-are-shrines-to-old-tvs-1789404080
  4. I have 3 CRT TV sets that we need to get rid off. These would be great for old video game consoles and I wanted to give the Atariage community a chance to get them first. If you live on the North shore of Boston (Massachusetts) and are looking for a CRT TV for your video game collection this could be the chance are looking for. I am moving and we simply do not have the room to keep the TVs. The TVs all work, details below. 1] 20 inch MGA tv. This is an old TV that someone left behind at the location where we are moving. It is small and light weight. There are only two inputs: coax and a two-channel composite (has only video and single audio, like the original NES). I tested the coax and channel 3 looks perfect for gaming. The composite is messed up - maybe it just needs an adjustment, I don't know. But if you just want a simple TV that plays old Atari consoles, the coax input is all you need. 2] 32 inch Sony Trinitron SDTV. This is my TV I have been using with my video game collection. I bought this a couple of years ago from Salvation Army for $20. It is a bit scuffed up but It works. It is heavy and I can not take it with me when I move. You'll need at least two people to carry it. 3] The cream of the crop. 32 inch Samsung HDTV 1080i in beautiful condition. This is taking up a large portion of a room we need at the location where we are moving to. While the screen is 32 inches, the bulk of this TV is bigger than the trinitron and is heavier. You'll need at least two people to carry it. If you are interested in taking one, PM me. We would like them gone this weekend. We have junk dealers coming to take them away on Thursday morning if no one wants them.
  5. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  6. This is a question I've wondered about for some time. I'm interested to see what the averages are for displays people use to retrocompute. My displays have averaged from about 212 to 220, with various monitors and televisions (never used an LCD). The current monitor I use displays about 220; It's a JVC BM-H1300SU Studio Monitor. I'm not looking for exact numbers, obviously, since this poll just allows for even numbers to be selected. It's close enough for me. Use the attached executable Atari image file to make your determination by getting your upper and lower numbers and then subtracting the upper from the lower for the total. For those with quite curvy monitors, you can adjust your numbers accordingly to reflect visibility at full width if you like, but it's not necessary. Selections are available for the various types and both NTSC and PAL: CRT Monitor (Real Monitors), LCD Monitor (of Any Type or Related Tech), and CRT Television. If you have monitors in multiple categories, you're welcome to enter as many as you'd like. If you'd like to post information about what monitor(s) you're using, that'd be cool too. Altirra diplays 224 scanlines for NTSC and 240 for PAL, and these are the dimensions you'll get when saving a screenshot with Altirra. Altirra - NTSC Screen Height.xex
  7. NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best.
  8. I am looking for a CRT tv for retro gaming. I cam across the Sony Wega KV-34XBR910 (also known as Sony Wega KV-XBR910). Does anyone know if this is a good model? Supposedly you should get one with 50hz, but i am not sure if this model has 50hz. Is there one you would recommend if not this one?
  9. Attached are files and associated data that demonstrate how colors appear from various NTSC systems on a Commodore 1702 display with all controls at neutral/default; it is renowned for its rich, deep color depiction. Extremely similar if not seemingly identical to it, includes such displays as a Magnavox CM8762 (074G). Atari 2600: Atari 5200: Atari 7800: C64: ColecoVision: NES: Each system listed is provided with palette hex data as well as a palette file or/and respective RGB data. Palette files support such emulators as Stella, kat5200, ProSystem, WinVice, puNES, Nestopia, etc. Additionally, for some of the listed systems, there is source code modifications (denoted by a "!" in front of the filenames), included for the MAME emulator and corresponding forks. Trebors_C1702_Palettes_20171217.zip Results are very good when viewed raw, but most excellent when applied against NTSC/CRT filters and shaders if available.
  10. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider tuning board
  11. From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider back panel
  12. CatPix

    TV N&B Schneider

    From the album: CatPixtures

    TV N&B Schneider working
  13. Hi guys, I would like to know your experiences with Monitors/Displays for running your TI-99, be it the US version (Composite) or the (European) PAL version using the YPrBr, or via the french RGB modulator RVB PHA 2037. Also I would like to know whether anyone tweaked his US console with a TMS9928A to get YPbBr out of it? It looks to me this is the best video chip to maintain the original desired speed of 60 Hz but getting the video signal via 3 component lines. The official TI branded 10" monitor is nice, I am missing the option to have RGB or YPrBr input. Even though there is supposed to be a PAL Version, that is nowhere to be found. I know about the F18A as video chip alternate with VGA output, I have two at home, however I am aiming for one setup now running the original experience. Sprites look so much more organic if there is Scanlines. In regards to the Monitor, I read a lot about Sony PVM CRT (Sony Professional Video Monitors) being the ideal displays for Retro Gaming since they don't upscale or screw up the video by believing it's interlaced content. Their geometry and quality is supposed to be outstanding. And from watching videos running RGB modded game consoles I can only agree with them. Sony PVM means they were not meant for the Consumer market but for the Professional market and therefore super expensive. Above that level is ever a higher class called Broadcast Video Monitors (Sony BVM). Those have even higher quality standards. Those devices can be feeded via Composite Input but you should aim for YPbrBr or RGB video as Input for those. Here is some example video, there are lots out there, it's kind of hard to capture the quality of those devices since they are from CRT (interlaced) running 60fieldsPerSecond and Youtube has 30fps: People talk a lot about 240p meaning, even though the console renders two fields via it's analog video out ports the content of those two fields match one progressive frame. A lot of TVs/Upscalers treat the ouput wrongly as 480i and starting to process the video with which then the problems starts. BR Klaus
  14. I have this strange problem with my CRT when running games via RGB, the right side of the screen seems to have some kind of colour bleed or something. It doesn't happen when running the games via composite and I checked the SCART cables, all the pins seem to have the correct components and wiring. Here's Sonic on the Mega Drive, it seems that the background colour bleeds through to the front. Depending on the main colour used in the background layer, that is usually the one that comes on top, like the casino zone or which ever has a reddish background, the red would show on top instead. It's less visible on the PS1 as it only comes across as barely visible white instead. The TV's a PAL Sony Trinitron from around the early 2000's, not used excessively I don't think, it's just strange that this only happens when using RGB. Anyone have any ideas or experience with this kind of thing?
  15. Some days ago I have started a thread about testing CRTs. The feedback so far is quite low, I hope I can get more attention by posting here too. So if you own/use a CRT, please use you Harmony cart for this really simple and quick test. Thanks in advance!
  16. Since I have begun dabbling in programming for the Atari 2600, I have become interested in running a PAL system for testing purposes. I have one wood-grain 4-switch NTSC VCS, and there are multiple PAL VCS's for sale on eBay at reasonable prices. My main question is about displaying the signal. I obviously don't have a PAL CRT, and the only way to get one would be to pay a fortune to ship one from across the pond. Not to mention that I would need to power it with the proper voltage at 50Hz. I have heard that the Commodore 64 1080/1084 monitors will accept PAL signals, though (I think), but getting a PAL CRT is pretty much out of the question for now. I was thinking of instead getting a signal converter so I could display the picture on a NTSC CRT, something like in this video. It seems too good to be true, but could something as inexpensive as this converter be all I need? One other question. I noticed that my power supply converts from 110V 60Hz to 9v DC. If I plug a PAL system into a US wall outlet, will it work properly? Or will I need a different power supply? I would assume that both NTSC and PAL systems run at 9V, but I may be wrong.
  17. NOS or barely used, 24-29" CRT, NOT flat or line multiplied like Trinitrons, one of the slightly rounded standard ones that works best with light gun games. Do you have one or know where I can get one? MN, WI, IA, ND, SD for pick-up?
  18. TV has been tossed. Thanks for your time!
  19. My sister's looking to sell two CRT TVs: Since these are large heavy CRTs, shipping is out of the question. We live in the Phoenix area but she also lives part-time in Flagstaff, so anyone in either area interested in these, let me know.
  20. SmellyJelly

    CRT Setup

    From the album: Smelly's Setup

    Here's my setup with all of my cart games and some of my consoles. From clockwise starting in the top left we have the Pikachu Nintendo 64, Sega Dreamcast, Playstation 1, Toploader NES, Model II Genesis, and a 4-switch Atari 2600. They all get their use, and I constantly am making sure the area itself is clean/dust-free.

    © SmellyJelly

  21. I recently obtained a 1984 monochrome CRT by Corona Data Systems. The video input port was very similar to that of a CGA monitor (8-pin DIN) but it was a U-DIN or "horseshoe" type. When I opened up the monitor I used the labels to modify a diagram to what I think is correct. I'll post a few pictures below. My attempted modification (right) of a diagram for a standard RGBI cable (left). I have no idea if this is really right, I just traced leads with my meter following the labels shown on the board, here: The input from the DIN soldered to the board inside the monitor. Here are a few pics of my monitor, the DIN input, and the label on the back. Really what I need is an accurate pin diagram or name for this type of connection so I can obtain a cable or at least know how to make one. All of my searches have shown essentially nothing to support the existence of this video connector type. I need to be able to connect this to a CGA/EGA or even VGA output if possible. I understand for VGA there may need to be some way to fabricate the intensity value. All help and info is appreciated. Thanks
  22. Just wondering if any body had an idea what wrong with the display on this TRS-80 Model 4 I just got yesterday. While I've played with electronics all my life, CRT's are a little out of my league. I'm wondering if it's a bad capacitor or something. some times it fast rolls, the weird diagonal lines are always there as you can see in the video. I haven't test the floppies yet, got to get some Model 4 boot disk.. which could be a challenge. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hA82fPno-6o
  23. The programming guidelines of Atari suggest a visible screen area of just 192 lines (NTSC). But CRTs can display a lot more lines. To find out the safe areas (and improve future games), I would like to run tests on as many CRTs as possible. Therefore I have created a little test program, which allows you to determine the borders of the visible area of your CRT. The controls are: Color = NTSC, B.W = PAL display Joystick up and down: move top border Fire + Joystick up and down: move bottom border Please test when the console and CRT are cold and (more relevant) after some time when they have warmed up. Analog devices tend to change a bit with temperature. Move the two borders to the most top or bottom position where you still can see the complete white top and bottom lines (without any color artifacts). And then please report the TV format (NTSC or PAL) and the three displayed values here. If your TV supports both formats, then please report both. My results (PAL Sony 15" Trinitron): NTSC: 22, 222, 18 PAL: 30, 264, 18 Thanks in advance! Results (warm) so far: NTSC: 100%, 28 tests | 60%, 21 tests Average: 26.7, 217.8, 17.9 | 23.3, 224.2, 14.5 Min: 19 , 190 , 8 | 16 , 215 , 6 Max: 41 , 234 , 31 | 30 , 239 , 22 PAL: 100%, 19 tests | 60%, 14 tests Average: 31.4, 263.1, 18.1 | 29.1, 269.1, 14.5 Min: 24 , 234 , 7 | 21 , 255, 7 Max: 37 , 280 , 42 | 36 , 283, 24 Screenshot from Stella with default settings (you can't see the border on the white background of AA ). Edit: New version, previously bottom was calculated 2 too low and resulting kernel size too large by 2 too. No need for to post again (I can adjust manually), but please start using v1.1 from now on. ScreenSize v1.1.bin
  24. MUNCIE INDIANA LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - MUST HAVE A TRUCK OR VAN this will NOT fit in your sedan; even if your seats fold down. Have a dolly/hand-truck. 37" screen, great picture and sound. Just replaced wheels and the speaker cones were all but dust;;; replaced with some $45 car audio speakers from Wal-Mart. The speakers wouldn't fit so I cut the holes bigger with a Dremel, not the prettiest job but you can't see that because the speaker covers hide it. They sound as good/better than the original speakers. See pics, the back has additional hookups for satellite speakers, though the built ins, I believe most people would find more than sufficient (miles better than the tin-cans TVs have now-a-days). The CRT has no scuffs/scratches. The console has some minor scuffs hardly noticeable, and one pretty good one on the top right (a few inches long). The glass door on the front works, but needs re-mounted properly. I'd not used it, and when I put it back on, I didn't have the proper screws/mounts so its not on super-sturdy, but easily fixed. Dual S-Video hookups; perfect for some old school gaming. The CRT is not removable from the console/cabinet - it's all ONE PIECE. It weighs probably ~150+ pounds; guessing. When you push it across the carpet, it's so heavy it wants to roll up your carpet if your not careful. It is 45 1/4" tall. 39" wide. 21 1/2" deep (at base). and of course the CRT is 37" diagonal. Looking for $100 even. Would trade for Atari 8-bit (800/xl/xe series; not 2600) stuff, nothing particular, but even if I already have, I love spares/extra I just don't have the room for this monster floor model :-(
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