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  1. I have never owned a C64 before, but just acquired one from my neighbor to evaluate and possibly purchase (Serial # S00067211). I have been getting more and more into retro computer tinkering and modding, and I started blogging about my projects at https://blog.codesurfer.dev I opened the case to test the electrolytic capacitors before powering it up (I also tested the power supply separately), and noticed that all of the ICs are dated 1982 with the possible exception of the PLA, the sticker on it reads "C64 REV 3 8411". Does that mean that the PLA is a 1984 version? Is this a particularly unique/rare version of C64 with collector value, and should I avoid doing any mods on it? A few interesting things happened when I originally powered this unit up. Firstly, even with the power switch in the "OFF" position, when I connected the power supply to the computer and then plugged the power supply into the outlet, the "POWER" LED came on! Secondly, my monitor registered a signal (the "no signal" prompt went away) but it was the "black screen" that I have read so much about. Needless to say this was bittersweet, I was hoping to see something come up on the screen, but figured, "now I can learn & blog about this C64 while troubleshooting it". I downloaded a copy of the C64 Service Manual from The Internet Archive, and checking the board schematic saw that the POWER LED should only turn on when the main +5VDC is available. The schematic showed that the power switch interrupts the +5VDC coming from the power brick, and one leg of the 9VAC supplying the other voltages on the board. So I opened it up again, but this time removed the board from the bottom case half and tested the DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) power switch with my multimeter. The switch checked out just fine, so before re-assembling it I connected the POWER LED and then the power brick. This time the LED did not come on until I turned on the power switch! Seeing that I decided to connect the monitor using my DIY Atari 800 A/V cable (The 5 pin DIN pinouts of the C64 and Atari 800 are similar enough to make this possible) and I got a clean yet monochrome screen!!! Has anyone else experienced something like this? I am thinking about looking for short circuits under the RF shielding before re-assembly. Any advice from the forum is greatly appreciated.
  2. In Skyfox for the Apple II, if you press Ctrl-G after you select your level a Space Invaders game will load up for you to play. This type of thing is a little more common with modern games I imagine because space isn't as big of a concern. But this got me thinking, what other hidden games are there for any of the classic computers? I'm guessing this wasn't real common, but there must be some others. I know there were a few games in Commodore 64 loaders, but what I'm more interested in are the ones that are truly hidden.
  3. Up for grabs is a pair of tested working Wico "The Boss" joysticks that will work with most db9 pin game systems including all pre 90s Atari consoles and Commodore 64/ Vic 20. Only selling as a set. Asking $34 shipped to anywhere in the US. If elsewhere you'll have to pay extra for shipping.
  4. There has been many threads and topics devoted to the colors of WinVice on a variety of forums; particularly for the NTSC region. The developers have certainly done tremendous work with the emulator and it is commendable. Even relatively recently, the following was performed respecting the video display: http://www.lemon64.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=596300#596300 It brought contrast and saturation to a default value of 1.250. It makes the current NTSC default display appear as follows: While indeed appreciated as a rather 'dull/muted' look is part of the issue with the way the NTSC display appears, there is another issue which was brought up previously that cannot be corrected properly through the video options offered via WinVice. The default red and blue ratios are not what many NTSC users experience. The worst and most evident being the amount of red applied to blue as noticed on the boot screen, but there are other issues as well. The testimony of many NTSC users on these boards as well as numerous online examples of the actual NTSC hardware running on official Commodore equipment (I.E. 1702) as well as other CRT displays makes this clearly evident: A shift of the tint value (More green/less red) will correct this (improperly) to a degree, but it also impacts the entire palette and will cause greys to look greenish as well as a slew of other undesired adjustments. Again, the main issue is red and blue ratio values, not something a tint/hue control can address the right way. So here is hopefully something to assist those NTSC users. This is not hand-picked or manually manipulated palette colors. Rather we take the default.vpl file values from WinVice and offer up the following comparison: Quickly looking over the chart especially the first three (Default, Default15, Default30) one may not notice much if any difference, but there is as we compare the various boot screens with the default and variety of ratio adjustments using the default user adjustable video option values of WinVice. *Note: All screen captures going forward are in the following order: default.vpl default15.vpl --> default30.vpl --> default15-15.vpl --> default30-30.vpl. Once an individual can figure approximately where their display falls in the spectrum, then other adjustments can be applied (Contrast, Brightness, Saturation, Tint). Here is what further difference the boot screen can appear with just contrast bumped up: You'll notice from the boot screen that the default15 and default15-15 does not appear to look different; ditto with the default30 and default 30-30. To truly notice the full range of what has changed and not changed (Or hardly changed) let's take two popular titles utilizing again the default user video option values: Bruce Lee G.I. Joe The differences from default and the four new default values should hopefully be much clearer. The issue (red/blue portions) is not unique to the C64 under the NTSC region. All three Atari systems (2600/5200/7800) and the NES (Both with vastly different ways of how their palettes are generated) experience a similar phenomenon. The only proper way to address it is with the option of modifying red, green, and blue ratio proportions, once a set of default values are obtained from the appropriate performed calculations. You'll notice that the percentage of 15% and 30% were utilized. Every 15% is where a very significant difference becomes apparent as highlighted in the captures. A higher percentage is possible but evidence of any online examples or personal experience of the ratios within a range greater than 30% is lacking. How to apply the different palettes: Copy the palette files to the C64 sub-folder found within the main folder where the main executable resides. (I.E. C:\WinVICE\C64) After copying the files you normally should be able to select them via the GUI interface: 'Settings' --> 'Video Settings' --> 'VICII Palette' tab. However, that appears not to work. An easy method is to just open the vice.ini file (Found in the main directory where the executable resides - i.e. C:\WinVICE) with Notepad and about a third of the way down you will find two lines: VICIIPaletteFile="default" VICIIExternalPalette=0 Change "default" to one of the new default files and change the 0 to 1. So for example if you wanted to try the "default15-15.vpl" file, the lines would be modified to: VICIIPaletteFile="default15-15" VICIIExternalPalette=1 Please make sure you save the file. Proceed then to launch WinVice and make whatever additional video changes you desire - contrast, brightness, saturation, etc. It would be wonderful to perhaps see these options/values incorporated and included in the WinVice distribution. To assist further and in aiding any who believe or desire to make manual adjustments to the default calculations here is the complete chart of palette values: Download the chart in Excel format here: CHARTDELTAS.zip Finally, the four new default palette files for WinVice can be downloaded here: WinVice_Default_Palettes_20131207.zip
  5. I'm back to cleaning out my storage and I have a couple of items to sell. Since I'm not equipped to ship out dozens of things at a time I will post them one at a time so I can stagger shipping. Up for sale today: Individual Computers Keyrah (8-bit US layout) $40 $35 shipped* Keyrah USB converter for Commodore computer keyboards (C64, C64C, C128, C16, VIC-20). See http://wiki.icomp.de/wiki/Keyrah for more information. Includes Keyrah (8-bit, US layout), internal USB cable, C64 ports plate (needed if using with C16 or VIC-20), original box, and documentation. * Shipping is included for continental US only. Others ask and I'll get a quote. Always interested in PS1, PS2, and PSP game trades. Thanks for looking! Previous (sold) items:
  6. Yep, Stuart K Reilly just released an Amiga review: It's a shame he never covered Lemmings.
  7. Today I was brave and after viewing tons of safety videos and obtaining 'overkill' protection (funny word for working on CRTs), I recapped my entire Commodore 1702 monitor. It sat for over a year but I still had gloves and boots, discharged, etc. I have more to do, but before I plug in for smoke tests, I hope to share pics and discuss some potential weak points. When I got the 1702 in a lot sale, it 'worked' but I heard some scary periodic power arcing and turned it off. There was a small burning smell and I waited about a year, thinking something fried. In that time, I learned the basic mechanics of a CRT, and opened my 1702 today. After recapping, my paper plate of old caps had leaking liquid but it is hard to determine which one(s) were the culprits. I hope all caps being replaced will fix any previous problems. I air sprayed the mainboard and all daughter boards and then washed all with Electronics cleaner. I will likely isoprop any white residue the cleaner left and hope to get this back up and running. *Interestingly, Commodore made an error on the silkscreen on some 1702s at capacitor C101 (like mine) as documented by Console5: https://console5.com/store/commodore-1702-cap-kit.html and their wiki: https://console5.com/wiki/Commodore_1702 where I printed my checklist and maps from. All PCBs look like the business end is only on the bottom. Questions: Should I replace anything other than the caps? Voltage regulators? What caused the arcing before? bad caps? The power switch is solid. Should I RGB mod? Replace the power cord to one with a ground? I will do a multi-meter continuity test on all fuses. Also, I may have cracked or lifted three traces/pads so advice on my repair plans is appreciated: Mainboard Problems: C201 (10uF 16v)- Negative pad lifting C204 (3.3uF 50v) - Bipolar (BP) lifting on one leg C603 (10uF 50v) - lifting pad Power Board: C905 (100uF 25v) - NOTE the red patch wire is for visual reference and can be desoldered easily. Also, I will not plug it back in the wall until I am certain all is well (and it is sealed up!) In some of these intended fixes, the plan is to use a wire if the path between points may contact unintended places. Otherwise, for a straight shot, I like the remaining clipped capacitor legs. Note I have yet to clip the legs on the spots in question so I have visual aid when finishing. Also, how precise should I consider gauge size when I use such short wire runs? My guess is the power board may matter more in this thinking. I do hope this project will fix the arcing issues (please don't be a tube problem itself), and restore this 1702 to day one original glory!
  8. ----------- EDIT: Thanks for all the sales so far, guys. I'm hoping to move a few more things in larger lots, so for the next while I'm running sale: Spend at least $100 (any combination of games, without shipping) and get 30% off. Any amount over between $100 and $200 gets 40% off. Any amount over $200 gets 50% off!!! e.g. you pick out $210 worth of games. You'll get $30 off for the first $100, $40 for the next $100, and $5 for the final $10, and have to only pay $135! Again, shipping costs are always extra of course. ----------- After a year long hiatus, I'm back to selling off much of my boxed 8-bit collection (as well as some Atari ST, Amiga, and classic PC games). At least the pandemic gave me some time to organize. Instead of listing everything here, I put together a Google Sites page with lots of pictures and suggested prices. https://sites.google.com/view/game-sale-list/home A few things: 1) Prices are in US dollars. They tend to be on the higher side for individual titles, but that's because I take into account the hassle of shipping out individual games. I'm always open to offers, but especially willing to move on price for multiple titles. 2) Shipping is extra. I'm in Canada, so shipping within Canada is preferred and likely cheaper too. Shipping to the US is usually not too bad, but shipping to Europe is expensive - be warned. 3) Payment by Paypal Gift/Friends&Family only please (or, if you're in Canada, e-transfer works too) 4) I will update the site as titles sell. I'll try to answer quickly to questions, but life is busy and it may be a day or so before I can reply. Hopefully less, but just so you know. Thanks for looking. Hoping to find some good new homes for these titles.
  9. Hi everyone. I'm putting together vintage computer and console related items which I hope to sell. Please click below to see the current items I'm listing. Items For Sale I'll be adding more as I test, and package the items. Thanks, John
  10. Not to long ago I came across a topic talking about how difficult it was to program for the Commodore Vic 20. I've heard this before, not just on this forum, but on other sites, So, wanting an answer to this myself, (I also wanted to program game for the system) I decided to start this topic, so I, was well as others could learn how to properly code their own homebrew games for the Vic-20 from more experienced programmers/developers, But before you unleash your curiosity, you should first know a few things if you want to get into programming for this machine; Operating System(s): Commodore Kernel-Commodore Basic 2.0 Graphics/Sound: handled by the VIC (Video Interface Chip) aka MOS Technology 6560 Memory: 20 kb ROM, 5 kb RAM, (default) (NOTE: Both the graphics and RAM were changed in some way by the Super Expander Cartridge, like increasing the graphics from 178x184 to 160x160, and increasing the RAM from 5kb to 15kb. though it was the nly cartridge to do this for the Vic 20,) if any of this info above is incorrect, please let me know, I would be happy to change it to be correct. But anyway, we will discuss things like: How to View/edit sprites How to create/edit Music/SFX for Vic 20 How to properly compile the code for your program/game What is the best programming language fore the Vic 20? and many more! Now, let's begin!
  11. If anyone is looking for a nostalgic Amiga drinks coaster or two to brighten up a desk, game room, living room etc.. take a look at our Etsy shop: https://etsy.me/3fYeUVI just search Amiga on my shop listings.? all the best, Liam, Pixel Games
  12. Hello to all, In a video on the YouTube channel of "8-bit show and tell" Glitch World In Commodore 64 Ninja - YouTube I discovered a floppy disk version of Ninja (Mastertronics) where the Atari and Commodore versions are on the same side of the disk. Floppy disks with Atari on one side and Commodore on the other side are very common. But I don't understand at all how to fit two versions for two very different computers on the same side of a floppy disk... Can someone explain to me how this is possible? I don't know anything about the Commodore floppy disk format, but I doubt that it is organized like the Atari one. Apart from the fact that they share the physical format 5"1/4 and 48 TPI, the rest must be very different, right? Or is it a common formatting that can be read on both? I'm really curious to know the answer. Thanks in advance,
  13. I'm looking to add a Commodore 1541-II drive to my collection. I have an extra Commodore 1571 floppy drive in good, working condition that I would like to trade for a 1541-II drive in good working condition. Here are some pictures of my 1571 drive: I've been using the drive without issue. The performance test completes successfully. The alignment test shows good alignment as well. I'd want to trade with someone who's willing to carefully pack and protect the drive for shipping. If you happen to be near the metro Atlanta area, I could meet-up somewhere to swap to avoid shipping.
  14. Happy Holidays To all, Barb and I wish you the best for the holidays ****Coming very soon **** Sega combos. Many variations will be available, including the CD, the CD platform and so on. If you have any interest in these, send me a PM indicating which or what combinations you are looking for. How many times have you seen a console setting on a shelf,or a table,and covered in a fine layer of dust or sticky fingerprints? Dust and sticky stuff is not our friend!And its certainly not a friend to our consoles. So, a dust cover is not only "eye candy" but it keeps that console killer, dust out. Oh,lets not forget those other killers,foreign objects,unknown liquids,and little kids. And it adds a touch of cool to your collection *****And to all of you sending prayers our way, Barb and I thank you.******* Leukemia is for lack of a better description a life changer.Since I was diagnosed with this a year and a half ago, our lives have seen the entire range of emotions. I was told that I had 1-2 years left when they 1st found it. Then after a very aggressive pattern of chemo and blood transfusions, it went into remission 4 months ago. But now its back again, and I have to be very worried about infections. So we are back to the chemo again, and hope that another miracle will occur. After a depressing vist with the Dr. it appears that choices of treatment , have become limited. I can either go to the hospital for a month where they would treat this with a very very aggressive chemo, or I can get a milder version , given as a shot for 5 days, every month. The choice is becoming clear, and it is Quality or Quantity. I have chosen the quality, and with that I am not sure where it will go. I will say that at least I have been given the option, which alot of people do not get.And after the second go around with the Chemo, I am holding my own.I cannot decide which is worse, a round of 15 shots or getting a bag hooked up for an hour at a time. Bottom line,with Barbs help, and the amazing drugs I soldier on. Again thank you to all who send us best wishes. Since my wife(Barb) started making these covers over 16 years ago,she has continued to expand the choices.I am posting a lot of pictures so you will be able to see all of the choices available. For those of you just seeing these for the first time,we have been selling on Ebay over 15 years,Atari Age over 5 years and have sold covers to buyers worldwide! Covers for the Atari 400 and 800 now available with Red or White logos. . These are all custom made,from"pleather" which is a type of vinyl/leather.Easy to clean,and maintain Yes,we will accept Paypal-verified *******Shipping, no problem with going out of US, as long as you know I have nothing to do with USPS pricing******* Yes, we will combine shipping. And yes, we will give a discount when multiple items are bought. ******Note***** While most of the pictures show the cover installed on an actual console,a few do not,which is why they look dis-sheveld OK,pricing is as follows: 3DO $31.00 Atari 1050(Floppy Drive) $17.00 Atari 5200-$18.00 Atari 5200 Trak- ball-$16.50 Buy both of the 5200 units(Console and Trak-ball) $32.00 Atari 2600-$18.00 Atari VCS-$18.00 Atari 2600 Heavy Sixer-$18.00 Atari Jr/Rainbow-$14.00 Atari 7800-$18.00 **Atari Specials all 4 covers $60.00= 2600,7800,5200, and 5200 Trakball Atari Jaguar-(white)-$16.00 Atari Jaguar-(red)-$16.00 Atari 400- White or Red Logo-$17.00 Atari 800xl-$18.00 Atari 800 Red or white logo-$19.00 Atari Jaguar CD-$18.00-White or Red lettering Colecovision Console $18.00 Colecovision Roller Controller$16.00 Colecovision Module 1(Atari Adaptor)- $15.00 Colecovision Module 2-$18.00 Buy all 4 for $65.00 Commodore 64-$18.50 Commodore Vic 20-$18.50 Commodore C128- $18.50 Commodore C16-$18.50 Fairchild Channel F -$22.00 **Has cutout for power cord and joystick cords** Intellivision(Master System)-$18.00***With running man logo*** Intellivision II-$16.50 Both Intellivision Special Covers $32.00 Intellivision=INTV III- $18.00 Magnavox Odyssey II $25.00 Mattel Aquarius Computer $16.00 Nintendo-NES 101 Red or White Lettering-$16.50 Nintendo/NES White or Red Lettering-$17.50 N-64-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 SNES-White or Red Lettering-$17.00 Sega Dreamcast-orange-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast blue-$18.00 Sega Dreamcast Red- $18.00 Sega Genesis II-$16.50 Sega Genesis-16 bit $18.50 Sega Saturn -$18.50 Sega Master System -$16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 Sears Video Arcade II $18.00 ***Looks like the Atari 7800 Sears Tele-Games(Atari 2600) -$18.00 Sears Tele-Games(Atari Heavy 6r)- $19.00 Sony Playstation 1 $16.50 Sega Mega Drive- $17.50 Sega Mega Drive II - $16.50 RS 80/Tandy/Radio Shack Computer-$19.00 Texas Instruments 99/4a $18.50 Turbo Graphx 16/TG 16 $18.00 Vectrex Dustcover Black /w/ Blue ,White,Red logo $38.00 Vectrex Cover Gray with Black/Blue $38.00 XBox(Original) $25.00 PM me for additional questions And Thanks for looking. Over the past few years we have had numerous requests for consoles and computers that we do make. The reason we do not make them is because we have not had the actual console/ computer to use for a template. Buyers say, well I can give you the dimensions or send a picture. The problem is that dimensions do not take into account all the curves, bends, protrusions etc that are common on these units. So, working from supplied dimensions almost never works. Barb and I are not as mobile as we used to be, so trying to find these computers/ game consoles is a crap shoot at best and a waste of time at worst. What we can offer is this.If you have a console/computer, preferably a parts shell unit, that your willing to send us, we will make a cover for it and send it back at no charge! Now, we are not interested in units that are so obscure that there might only be 100 in the world. Obviously for us to make the cover there has to be a market of some kind, so please keep that in mind. So, shoot me a PM, let me know what your looking for and we can see if we can help each other!
  15. In one of the recent videos from the 8-bit Guy, he showcased a case that enclosed a Mini-Pet. It made me wonder if something like this would be a viable product considering that the Mini-Pet is something that is being actively sold and retro-computing seems to becoming more and more mainstream. Anyway, just a thought and enjoy the video if you haven't seen it yet
  16. Hey guys, as you may well know, the fantastic Reset64 http://reset.cbm8bit.com/ threw a Commodore 64 4k game coding competition in which 37 entries were creating, and put forth for enjoyment, and scrutiny! Our Podcast, Pixel Gaiden, just released an episode in which we played and reviewed every single one! (unofficially of course) Please take time to check out the games themselves, as well as give our show a listen. You can find it wherever you currently listen to podcasts, or check the link below. Of course we would love it if you could like and subscribe as well! Thanks in advance! https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9waXhlbGdhaWRlbi5wb2RiZWFuLmNvbS9mZWVkLnhtbA/episode/cGl4ZWxnYWlkZW4ucG9kYmVhbi5jb20vMTYwZGNmYmItMzY1NS01M2NjLWFiOGUtZDE1OTdkMWFlOTc5 You can try all of the games yourself by going here... https://reset64-magazine.itch.io/2020-reset64-4kb-craptastic-game-compo
  17. Cable Brains Cart found version 1.2 Huge thanks to evg2000 for helping with this. Program attached. Notes provided by evg2000. cablebrains.prg cbprint.prg Cable Brains Notes.txt
  18. I am looking for good info on hacking the C64 DTV into a proper working Commodore 64 system. Ten or more years later, a lot of the old links with necessary diagrams, firmware and instructions are dead. I have owned the original joystick model for years and recently found a Hummer Offroad plug and play game in a local thrift. The Hummer game seems like a good candidate to modify, as the game-play itself isn't great and I seem to remember it being a revised version of the original Jeri Ellsworth design. What I am wanting to do, at minimum, is to solder on a ps/2 keyboard port and a serial port to use with a real 1541 floppy drive.
  19. Vasco

    Lost Party 2020

    After many questions and requests we've decided to introduce new coding compo for the 8 bit Atari: "Illegal is legal". To take part in the compo your entry needs to meet some requirements: - they may only use illegal opcodes, - they should switch OFF the OS in the very beginning, - they should work on every Atari machine located within 320 km from Licheń Stary, - they don't use addresses such as $d200-1f, $d301, $d640-$d65f, $d740-$d75f etc. [polish text: grab the teddy bear xxl]
  20. Hello friends, I've got a new project that I'm going to be working on and I wanted to get the word out. I am a big fan of the arcade game Gauntlet: ...and who wouldn't be, its big, its beautiful, and its fun for up to 4 players! Hands down, the single best port of this arcade classic is Tengen's Gauntlet IV for the SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive: With a title like Gauntlet IV, one would assume that this is a sequel of some sort, which could never be as good as the original, but that's where you're wrong. Gauntlet IV has 4 modes of play, 1 being a pixel-perfect port of the arcade classic (including 4-player support), then a few other variants with some cool RPG and battle elements. As I recently picked up a MIB complete copy of this game (replacing my previous cartridge only version), I started playing it again, and realized that a Genesis control pad just doesn't do it justice. So with my new found skills at creating arcade-like controllers I had the idea of creating a proper joystick controller to further my enjoyment of this game. After a bit of research regarding the original controls hardware used in the arcade cabinets, I realized that the linchpin to this endeavor would be to source an original Atari logo'ed ball-knob, 8-way leafswitch joystick, like this one (most of these pics "borrowed" from the internet): So for a little while now I've been on the hunt for one of these little beauties on ebay and over at the Arcade Forums. There were a few variants of this general/similar style of stick by Atari, including analog/digital, leafswitch/microswitch, and 4-way/8-way, but I need a very specific model, only used in a handful of Atari arcade games. Most of those on ebay are of the the wrong type (in 1 way or another), beat up pretty bad, or just really high priced. But last night, I was finally able to strike a deal for exactly what I was looking for, the only caveat being, was that the seller was selling a set of (4) of these controllers, not the "single one" that I needed. But we worked out a "decent" per-stick price for the overall package, so now I am patiently waiting for my (4) slightly used Atari logo'ed ball-knob, 8-way leafswitch joysticks. I will basically have 3 options of what to do with the extra 3 joysticks: 1) resell the unneeded 3 joysticks as arcade replacement parts 2) create and keep 4 Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controllers 3) create 4, and sell 2 or 3 Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Controllers If I had 3 local friends that played video games with any regularity/proficiency, I would consider option 2, but that's not the case for me unfortunately (my friends suck). If there is interest from anybody here for such a creation (besides me obviously), some combination of options 3 & 1 are possible. If no one has any interest, then option 1 is my best bet. With all that being said, this will basically end up being built as a SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive 3-button arcade stick, with the arcade-correct Gauntlet joystick and pushbuttons. So why would I ever post this here, for this reason: Team Pixelboy's published, MSX conversion of Gauntlet for the ColecoVision, so it technically falls into the ColecoVision realm! Fortunately this port doesn't require the keypad, and with a little bit of wiring trickery by me, I will be able to make what will be a 3-button SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive controller, also work as a 2-button ColecoVision controller for this fine port. And obviously while this controller will be able to be used for any system and/or game that can make use of a SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive 3-button controller, I'm touting that this will be the ultimate controller for the following Gauntlet-esque games: Dandy - the original that started it all as an Atari Program Exchange game, which inspired the Gauntlet arcade franchise: available on: Atari 8-Bit / Commodore 64 / Amstrad CPC Dark Chambers - Atari's "commercial" release of Dandy: available on: Atari 2600 / 8-Bit / 7800 Gauntlet - home port: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 / SEGA Master System / ColecoVision Gauntlet II - home port: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 Gauntlet III - home game: available on: Amstrad CPC / Atari ST / Commodore 64 Gauntlet IV - home port/game available on: SEGA Genesis/MegaDrive (as noted above) Additionally I believe that it may be possible to to allow this controller to also work with the Nintendo NES ports of Gauntlet and Gauntlet II as well (in addition to all NES games), more info on this to come. So while right now I have no fabulous pictures of a completed example to show off, I'm just looking to see if there is any interest, from anybody here for such a controller. No matter what anybody else thinks/feels regarding this project, I will be building 1 for myself. The main reason I bring this up here, is mainly due to the fact that I had to purchase 4 of the Atari joysticks, to get the 1 that I needed/wanted. As they are fairly expensive and hard to come by, I would hate to re-sell all 3 joysticks, then have one or more people speak up asking to buy this controller (that I wouldn't be able to build). On the other hand if there is no interest here at all for such a thing, I would probably list the joysticks for sale sooner-than-later to recoup their cost. At this point I don't have a firm selling price, or time-frame. I can only estimate that the finished Gauntlet Edition - VVG Experience Contollers would sell for somewhere in the $300-$400 range, and could be ready as soon as late January, or after. So again, I don't need any sort of "firm commitment" or "down-payment" money at this time (and obviously final decision to purchase would be after the 1st one is built so that you could see what it will be like), I'm just checking to see if knowing all of this info, if there is any interest. As I deal with ColecoVision hardware more than anything else, and there is a ColecoVision port of Gauntlet, I thought I would offer the "idea" of these here first before checking Sega/Atari collectors for their interest. Last note, due to the limited availability of the vintage Atari Joysticks, I can't say that any more than these potential 4 could/would ever be made. If a group of buyers "speak" up with interest in this project, and all agreed they would like to see these limited to only 4 total examples ever built, I'd be fine with that too. So just a little food for thought, and I look forward to any thought/comments/feedback. Thanks.
  21. Hi everyone, I'have VIC20 that I bought in 80's. During this days I tried to turn on it, after 20 years well-deserved rest. If I try to lauch a game, I don't hear any sound, except like "pc speacker". Reading the manual, I found POKE comand, so If I try to digit POKE 36878,15 (volume max) and than POKE 36874,222 or 36875,222 or 36876,222 I don't hear any sound (with the tv audio volume set to max), but with 36877,222 I hear a noise like "pc speacker" Also, only once, the VIC20 connected to TV via RF modulator, the screen became grey color e it began to flicker, so I tried to connect the VIC via scart cable e TV said "no signal". Now this trouble never appereance again. I would to replace the MOS 6561-101, but I want to learn your opinion first or any suggestion is much appreciated. Thanks
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