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Found 21 results

  1. Links Website Forum Topic Notes Composite and S-Video output Video only. No audio output Premade kits available Plug n Play version available for revisions containing a CD4050 chip Keeps RF circuit intact. Can use RF in conjunction w/ Composite and S-Video to output to multiple TVs at the same time NTSC & PAL support
  2. Links Website Review by Ben Heck Notes Composite and S-Video output Stereo Audio Design only, premade kits no longer sold
  3. NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best.
  4. iesposta


    From the album: Intellivision

    Shot of TV
  5. I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the Intellivision Model 1 system can be modified to be compatible with the Atari 2600 System Changer as well as a Composite A/V mod at the same time? If so, are the modifications easy or are they pretty difficult? I'm really interested in this because it seems like these mods would kill two birds with one stone, especially since my 2600 died recently. Any light that can be shed on the subject is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  6. iesposta

    Close up Composite

    From the album: Intellivision

    Close up Intellivision Composite diode shunt circuit.
  7. From the album: Intellivision

    Intellivision Composite mod
  8. Links Example - eBay Auction -- Item Number: 311634197062 Notes Single transistor design Composite video only Premade kit
  9. Links Website Notes Composite output Single transistor design Premade kits available Ships from Turkey, can take a while to arrive Removes RF box Also offers a combo AV/Pause kit (I've used this one, it works pretty good!)
  10. Links Ben's Website Notes Composite output Single transistor design Design only, not a premade kit Removes RF box
  11. Hey guys. I've seen a lot of good help on this forum that I've used to help me diagnose my Atari 2600 4-switch that has not worked ever since I tried to install a widely used composite mod. (Kit Link Here) I installed it using an instructable (Instructable Link Here) I followed all instructions including removing q202, r209, r222, and c205, aaaaand... nothing it didn't work. (note: when I say nothing, I mean the TV says no signal.) I suspected bad connections but that wasn't it. I tried re-soldering the old components and that did something for a while but then it stopped. Next I thought that it wasn't getting enough power so I checked the power supply and 5v reg. Both were just fine except the 5v Reg had 2 of it's pins crossed. After uncrossing them I got some video for about two seconds and then it quit. (see attached video) I thought it was the chips now so I replaced all 3 (TIA, RIOT, and CPU) and this put me back to the same old no signal screen. I tried the old chips on a working system (w/o composite mod) and they gave a black screen. Not sure what to do at this point. Nothing is abnormally hot. Maybe my somewhat noob soldering skills maybe be a problem Cheers, kalgran Glitching.mp4
  12. Just wondering anyone has any idea about this problem concerning a rolling interference pattern on my AV-modded Colecovision. I'm attaching a photo to demonstrate what I am seeing on my CRT TV. It's a set of diagonal rolling lines on the screen that disappear after several seconds and then show up again. It drives me nuts, especially in games with a blue background (eg. The Coleco blue skill selection screen, or Evolution title screen). This problem is most visible on my AV (composite) connection but also shows up on the RF coax input as well, though not as noticeable because the lower quality hides it a bit. I've tried the transistor AV mod as well as the op amp version of the mod, and neither rectified the issue. I've also tried two different power supplies, cleaned the power switch and PCB, and tried different TV sets (CRT and LCD). I don't want to waste any more time on this but was just hoping someone can help out. Someone else had this same problem a couple years back and he ended up selling the unit and buying another one, which didn't have the problem. So it wasn't an issue with his power socket or location.
  13. One thing I enjoy reading about in the forums is various installation strategies for Atari modifications. I recently completed the Easier 7800 Composite Mod (thanks Puppetmark and Underball!), and I'm pretty satisfied with the modification itself and the installation, so I figured I'd share some pics too. Here is the bottom side (component side) of the prototype board: Here is the top side (circuit side) of the prototype board: I used wires with connectors so that the board can easily be removed. This is helpful because once installed, the 7800 logic board cannot be removed without first removing the composite board (the yellow RCA connector extends though the hole in the back of the 7800 case plastic thereby preventing the board from being lifted). Now with the board installed and connected (yes, there is clearance for the RF shield): And finally, a shot of the back of the system (8mm headphone jack is on the left, and the composite plug is on the right):
  14. Hello! I have been drawing a new layout for the "Little Brother Grows Up" schematic this afternoon. Since I am only an amateur and lack some technical knowledge (e.g. I do not understand why there are two further capacitors - C1 and C5 - necessary in this schematic, both just connecting the top of C188 - a mainboard capacitor - to its bottom). I put them in anyway. If one only wants composite, it should be perfectly "legal" to leave out R12, AFAIK. Since I also sincerely doubted the necessity of another CD4050 on the board (since there already is A111 on the mainboard and in the original schematics, the output signals from this CD4050 are directly fed into just another CD4050), I left it out (this has been done with the 2600 s-video mod from the FAQ already, with good results). AFAIK, Instead of tapping the CD4050s output from various resistors on the mainboard, it is also possible to bend up pins 2,4,6,10 and 12 and solder the mod to these pins. Please check the design for any mistakes (as I said,i am an amateur) before trying it yourself. Oh, and sorry for the lying resistors depicted - several of them need to stand upright, but the software I used doesn't allow that.
  15. I'm waiting for a replacement PAL 65 XE and I think I am just going to bypass RF and use composite out with a SCART adapter for the display. Am I right that the XE's have theoretically better output than the XL's? This cable is listed as XL only: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574883395&toolid=10001&campid=5336500554&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F261035157096%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT%26_trksid%3Dp3984.m1438.l2649 but presumably should work ok with an XE?
  16. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    My Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console Modded for Composite A/V, S-Video and YPbPr Component using Tim Worthington's (etim's) 2600RGB Mod. with an additional 2600RGB to Component Add-On Board. I'm very happy and pleased with this mod.

    © Activision Man aka SavyIsJoshoArts

  17. Recently got an 2600 (Vader) and gave it an composite mod. That mod seemed to work fine for a few times but after a while gave increasingly more glitches with each power cycle. First blocks in the screen, then the games where effected by the power switch (in combat suddenly the tanks moved), then the image stopped working and just getting a buzzing sound and now I only get a black screen without sound. What could cause this issue?
  18. ElectronicSentimentalities http://electronicsentimentalities.com/InstallationServices.html Spectacular...If I had to choose one word to describe both my dealings with and the end results of the service that ElectronicSentimentalities offers, spectacular would be that word. I have had the pleasure of purchasing and currently own the Best 7800 Composite mod system, a 7800 system mod from Yurkie, and now one from ElectronicSentimetalities. Yurkie was dead on the money recommending their service after discontinuing the one he provided. The recommendation meant a lot to me, knowing how satisfied I was and how awesome Yurkie's work was on the 7800, for him to recommend another - I knew it had to be good. I was wrong. It is not good, but excellent. Joe was friendly, fast, and a pleasure to deal with; including shipping my console back way before the expected return date. Further, the price is extremely reasonable. You get S-Video, Composite, and audio out jacks. The composite picture is the clearest I have seen and the S-Video is even more stunning. Being that I own a "CPS 7800 Diagnostic Test Cartridge'', the console was tested, and the color calibration was shown to have been performed perfectly as well. The console was packaged very carefully when sent back including a second box with padding/insulation in addition to the one I utilized sending my system out. Externally, you could not tell (Outside of the new connectors) the system was even touched. In fact, it was wrapped nearly exact the way I shipped it. You're not a DIY console mod person or not very good at it; or just want the ease and convenience of having your 7800 system mod done beautifully and professionally with spectacular results, this would be the place your console needs to go. Highly recommended and highly impressed - Bravo, Joe/ElectronicSentimentalities.
  19. Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
  20. Links Website Notes Composite output Single Transistor design Premade kits available Removes RF box NTSC & PAL support Very, very small
  21. MUNCIE INDIANA LOCAL PICKUP ONLY - MUST HAVE A TRUCK OR VAN this will NOT fit in your sedan; even if your seats fold down. Have a dolly/hand-truck. 37" screen, great picture and sound. Just replaced wheels and the speaker cones were all but dust;;; replaced with some $45 car audio speakers from Wal-Mart. The speakers wouldn't fit so I cut the holes bigger with a Dremel, not the prettiest job but you can't see that because the speaker covers hide it. They sound as good/better than the original speakers. See pics, the back has additional hookups for satellite speakers, though the built ins, I believe most people would find more than sufficient (miles better than the tin-cans TVs have now-a-days). The CRT has no scuffs/scratches. The console has some minor scuffs hardly noticeable, and one pretty good one on the top right (a few inches long). The glass door on the front works, but needs re-mounted properly. I'd not used it, and when I put it back on, I didn't have the proper screws/mounts so its not on super-sturdy, but easily fixed. Dual S-Video hookups; perfect for some old school gaming. The CRT is not removable from the console/cabinet - it's all ONE PIECE. It weighs probably ~150+ pounds; guessing. When you push it across the carpet, it's so heavy it wants to roll up your carpet if your not careful. It is 45 1/4" tall. 39" wide. 21 1/2" deep (at base). and of course the CRT is 37" diagonal. Looking for $100 even. Would trade for Atari 8-bit (800/xl/xe series; not 2600) stuff, nothing particular, but even if I already have, I love spares/extra I just don't have the room for this monster floor model :-(
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