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Found 21 results

  1. Morning folks, I wonder if anyone can help. I am desperately looking for some springs on what I think is an Atari 800XL type keyboard. In my latest repair a few have stretched and are no longer working very well. I have tried Best in the US, but unfortunately thry have a US$20 minimum order for international orders and have suggested that the shipping would also be prohibitively expensive. I was wondering if anyone out there would be prepared to send me a few across. Happy to pay whatever you think might be reasonable amount by Paypal. I need 3-4 conical springs and the two springs either side of the spacebar. Surely someone, somewhere has a scrapper machine they have stripped for spares from which they could recover a few springs? I would be extremely grateful if some kind sole would help. Heres to hoping, Nyonuk.
  2. I recently bought an 800XL with the coveted Alps keyboard—I've been wanting to try one out and see how it compares to other variants. Unfortunately, the seller packed it diagonally in a small box with wads of paper stuffed in so tight that most of the keys were pressed down. On the plus side, this prevented the "ingot" power supply from rattling around inside the box and smashing up the case. However, when I pulled the case out, I heard what sounded like something snapping. Hopefully it was just something shifting in the bottom of the box, but I did notice that the spacebar was somewhat loose. I took the case apart and took the keyboard out. The unit looks pristine, almost like it was never used save for a little bit of dust between the keys. I noticed that the Alps keyboard spacebar has the key switch under the right side of the spacebar, and a spring under the left side. Coincidentally, it's the side of the spacebar away from the switch that is loose—I'm able to move the left side of the spacebar up and down a little with light pressure. For those that have an 800XL with an Alps keyboard, is this just normal behavior? It makes sense that the side of the spacebar that's not attached to the switch would be a little looser, so I'm hoping no damage was done. If I'd known about the tight packing, I would have just cut the box open from the start.
  3. Hi Everyone, I have for sale: 1. one Atari Video Touch Pad Controller: System: Atari 2600, Model Number: CX21 Also known as the Star Raiders controller, functionally identical to the Kid's Controller and Keyboard Controller. Also included is an overlay with commands, for use with the game Star Raiders. The game itself is not included. 2. one pair of Atari Keyboard Controllers: System: Atari 2600, Model Number: CX50 Functionally identical to the Kid's Controller and the Video Touch Pad. Included are overlays with commands, meant to be used with Basic Programming. Can be used with the following titles: Basic Programming, Brain Games, Codebreaker, Game of Concentration, Hunt & Score, MagiCard and Memory Match. The titles themselves, are not included. Asking € 10,- + shipping for the Atari Video Touch Pad Controller and € 15,- + shipping for the pair of Atari Keyboard Controllers(PayPal Gift of IBAN bank transfer) I can ship worldwide from the Netherlands. The items are listed elsewhere. Thanks for looking.
  4. I'm looking to buy a working and clean Commodore 64C Keyboard, preferably the later version with Text on top of keys, but will be happy with the earlier version as well. Thanks, I've been having one hell of time finding a replacement anywhere. ISB
  5. Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
  6. I have come across an interesting issue with Altirra and keyboard input. I mentioned this in passing within the Altirra release discussion, but thought it was worth a thread to itself. MyBIOS requires you to press Start+Select+Option simultaneously in order to enter its setup menu. These Atari keys are emulated by Altirra with F2, F3 and F4 respectively. So far so good. However it seems that my keyboard - and from what I have read most PC keyboards - will not register three key-presses at the same time. Judging from the appropriate section of the Atari "Self Test"; any combination of two from Start, Select or Option DOES register, but not all three. It is impossible therefore to enter the MyBIOS setup menu! Again. this seems to be a Windows/Hardware problem and not a shortcoming within Altirra. I was wondering if Avery or anyone else could suggest a solution?
  7. This Colecovision/Adam keyboard was part of a Commodore lot I bought a few months ago. It's missing a few keys, a bit of yellowing but otherwise feels solid and in good shape. I have no way of testing it as I don't have a Coleco system nor do I have the cable to connect it. Free or Trade, just pay shipping (US only) as I know someone can use this either for parts or a cleanup/restore project. PM me if interested and we can discuss the cost to ship, etc. Cheers, ISB
  8. There have been a lot of good thoughts on how to clean 800XL keyboards here. I decided to follow a more traditional approach and it worked well. Phase 1 - The Quick and Lazy cleaning: First I tried cleaning by using q-tips and 91% Isopropyl alcohol to get all of the dirt out from around the keycaps. I was only able to get about 80% down the keycaps because of how tight the keys are relative to each other. I was also certain there was material below the keycaps I could not get to. I wanted a deeper cleaning. Phase 2 - Prep for cleaning: - I used a standard keycap puller such as those used for cherry MX keycaps. ($6 shipped in the USA https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAUJDJK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I tried to remove all keycaps except for the Spacebars. Spacebars are always special on keyboards as they have extra clips/mechanisms that like to break when removed -- so never try to remove a Spacebar . The other big keys (Control, Shift, etc) all came out easily and have no extra clips/mechanisms. - 90% of the keycaps came off completely cleanly with no problem. The 800XL keycaps required less force to remove than most keyboards I've worked with. (Various Cherry MX, Focus 2001, IBM Models). A successful remove looks like the missing 'J' key in this picture: http://blog.pixelpracht.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Atar800xl_06.jpg - The remaining 10% would come out with a plastic square embedded in the keycap (instead of the keyboard). Underneath this square are two springs - a tall/narrow and a wider/shorter spring. When this happened, I would put the big spring back into the keyboard (there's a ring slot for it). Then I'd placed the tall/narrow spring into the plastic square embedded in the keycap (where it belongs), and push down a good bit on it/twist it a bit so it would stay in place. Then, very carefully I'd make sure I had the keycap oriented the right way, sliding the thin spring into the middle of the wide spring while putting the keycap back in place. Put the keycap back in place in a 'left to right' or 'right to left' orientation as that's how the clips want to attach. If you go in the perpendicular direction you might break the clip. If the spring falls out before the keycap is back on or the key press feels weird, repeat this process until it's better. - I would then try to carefully/slowly pull the keycap out a second time, and 50% of the time the plastic square would stay in the keyboard. The other keycaps I just left back on the keyboard after a second try. Phase 3 - the actual cleaning: The Keycaps -- Fill a bowl with dish soap and hot water. Sprinkle in the keycaps you've removed.. Stir with a plastic brush occasionally. When ready, empty into a strainer (don't lose your keycaps down the drain!) and dry on a towel. The Keyboard -- With everything verified securely in place on the keyboard (push on each item at least once) -- use compressed air to blow any/all dust out from around the keycaps, keyboard, and 'start-option' keys on the side. The 800XL has a lot of nooks/crannies that make doing this only with a q-tip EXTREMELY tedious. Once the air cleaning is done, follow up with q-tips and Iso alcohol to carefully clean extra dirty spots, including the keycaps that remained on the keyboard. The Spacebar has an amazing capacity for holding dirt. Don't forget to clean the back of the keyboard too if needed. Phase 4 - Reassemble Ensure the keycaps are fully dried as any trapped moisture could cause the springs to rust. Wipe off any remaining dirt with a paper towel on keycaps as needed. Place the now clean keycaps back on the keyboard. Here's a layout reference if needed: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/post-8944-1176212341.jpg Test press on the keys before connecting the keyboard into your Atari. If any keys do not operate normally, remove the keycap carefully and place the key back onto the keyboard. Test again. Phase 5 - Results It works, It's clean, I'm happy. Other recommendations: - Do not push too hard on the tall spring when placing inside a 'stuck' keycap. If your finger slips off it will fly pretty far away from you. - You might look into replacing the 'chrome' option/start/reset keys while doing this work as they don't always wear well with time. - Do not work on the keyboard over your lap -- springs and clips will disappear or get crushed by your chair when you move to try to find them . - There are other variants of 800XL keyboards that may have slightly different mechanisms for the keys. - This is always a good time to clean the plastic 800XL case with dish soap and water, and if needed -- retrobrighting (one pass only) the white parts of the case. - Atari music such as 'Bad Apple by R0ger', the intro and game music to 'His Dark Majesty', 'Near' by Agenda Demo, and Desire's Arsantica 3 make excellent background music while removing keycaps and cleaning. - PROTIP --> Don't confuse your water glass with the bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol.
  9. I tried to do a search on this both in AA and through Google without any success. But I find it hard to believe that no games were made that didn't allow for using the keyboard arrow keys instead of a joystick to move the character (or whatever?) around the screen. So hopefully all you gamers out there can scratch your heads and come up with some possibilites. Thanks, - Michael
  10. I am trying to read the keyboard in order to implement a pause routine in a patched version of Shamus. I read all I could find about SKSTAT and KBCODE but it doesn't really work as expected. I do not use system VBI routines. I tried to load SKSTAT during VBI, AND $04 and act on the results of that, i.e. interpreting anything not zero as a keypress. I then check for a specific KBCODE (Space) to enter the pause routine. After a little delay I check for SKSTAT and KBCODE again to end the pause when it is pressed again. That works as well but the game only stays "unpaused" when I keep the space bar pressed. then SKSTAT seems to remain "latched" as the game will end the pause but jump right back unless that key is held. My understanding is that SKSTAT bit 2 should revert to zero if no key is depressed. In reality it seems to remain set (always?) and as KBCODE does not change when a key is released the next VBI jumps right back into the pause routine. My code is below. Any ideas what I did wrong? (The "PAUSECTR" and countdown from 4 in the PAUSING routine were intended to make sure the key is really depressed for a little while. The behaviour of the routine doesn't change when I leave them out, so I assume I am doing something wrong with SKSTAT.) XITVBV equ $E462 NMIEN equ $D40E DLISTL equ $D402 DLISTH equ $D403 KBCODE equ $D209 SKSTAT equ $D20F SKCTL equ SKSTAT AUDF1 equ $D200 HITCLR equ $D01E CHECKKEYS LDA SKSTAT ;this is where VVBLKI points AND #$04 BEQ EXIT LDA KBCODE CMP #$21 BNE EXIT0 INC PAUSECTR LDA PAUSECTR CMP #$04 BNE EXIT2 PAUSE LDA #$00 STA NMIEN ;no more VBIs while pausing STA PAUSECTR LDA <PAUSEDLIST ;change to dedicated display list STA DLISTL LDA >PAUSEDLIST STA DLISTH LDA #$00 LDY #$03 KILLAUDIO STA AUDF1,Y DEY BPL KILLAUDIO PAUSING LDX #$04 KEYPRESSED LDA SKSTAT AND #$04 BNE PAUSING LDA KBCODE CMP #$21 BNE PAUSING DEX BEQ ENDPAUSE BNE KEYPRESSED ENDPAUSE LDA #$B8 STA DLISTL LDA #$35 STA DLISTH LDA #$C0 STA NMIEN STA HITCLR EXIT0 LDA #$00 EXIT STA PAUSECTR EXIT2 JMP XITVBV PAUSECTR .BY $00
  11. So I was playing my cart of Lode Runner tonight, on the tan/blue label XEGS style cart, and looking at a manual for the 5.25 floppy version of the game (attached) All of the keyboard controls worked (pause, restart, extra lives, next level,) but none of the controls to actually MOVE the charachter worked for some reason. Is it possible the keyboard controls were removed from some of these later XEGS carts, is my keypad broken, or am I just doing it wrong? I am using the BEST electronics keyboard extension cable, btw. Thanks! Looking forward to getting to the bottom of this mystery. Lode_Runner_Atari.pdf
  12. Hi, please find attached a new release of my game ECKN+. Thanks to tests with the up-coming TK-II keyboard / mouse-interface, I noticed that the keyboard support in ECKN+ was kind of broken - while the old edition (without "+") worked. Since only the "+"-version is NTSC compatible, I decided to create a small update - even after seven years. So here are the news: - fixed keyboard controls - added ESC-key support to remove corner mark if set (like right mouse button in CX77/CMI08 mode) - added support for "WASD" keyboard input scheme, added "Shift" for selection too - code clean-up, joystick input a bit more fluid now This version substitutes the former. No need to preserve the old one. Have fun! ECKNPLUS.ATR.zip
  13. I wondered if anyone might be able to help me replace a missing spring on a Mitsumi 800XL keyboard? The keyboard is "Type 5" in the 600/800XL Keyboard Variants thread, and I rather like it. Unfortunately efforts to fabricate a replacement spring for the Break key have been unsuccessful. Here's a photo of the required spring: Frustratingly, I had a cannibalised example of this keyboard many years ago but rather foolishly threw it away, and later did the same thing with the five console key springs I had kept. If anyone has such a spring spare and doesn't mind parting with it (for a nominal fee, covering postage, etc), a PM would be most welcome! Thanks in advance.
  14. Hello! Is there any insight to making the stock keyboards more responsive and touch friendly? Ideas for retrofitting new springs and such?
  15. I have a perfectly working Atari 800 I just added to my collection but it is missing the number 8 key. I was wondering if someone has a spare from an old non working keyboard they would be willing to donate or sell to me. I will pay shipping. Thanks
  16. Can anyone confirm or deny if the games that require the keypad/keyboard controllers work with the Harmony Cart? Brain Games, Basic Programming, Star Raiders, and the 4 Sesame Street games....?
  17. I recently picked up a 1040STF with German keyboard and OS, and that got me thinking: What other keyboard language versions/variants did Atari have for the ST/TT/Falcon range of computers? Also, I assume that any difference in keyboard variation will also come with a different, matching OS? I appreciate any information or thoughts on this. Thanks in advance
  18. I'm trying to restore the 1200XL I found in the trash years ago. The keyboard was nonfunctional, so I ordered a replacement Mylar from Best. I cleaned the PCB and key caps, reinstalled everything, and...nothing. Just the reset key and maybe one other key worked. I installed the included thin wafer with gold contacts that goes between the Mylar and the PCB and this time, the O key was stuck on; a few other keys worked but not many. Best says not to remove the layer of carbon that's built up over the gold PCB contacts that make a connection with the circuit traces on the Mylar, but I'm wondering if that's the weak link in the equation. Any suggestions for what to try next?
  19. Hello, New to Atariage but I am just wondering if anyone has seen one of the Intellivision Keyboard component just wondering an approximate value, sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. Still learning! Thanks
  20. Everybody who has problems to remember the keyboard positions of the graphic characters, international char-set or layout of Atari keys when using an emulator (like my son), here is your solution: CKS12 Fifty low abrasive plastic film stickers (33 Atari char-set stickers, 15 practical symbols for keyboards in emulation mode, 2 test stickers) Four different kinds: * XL brown opaque (brown PC keyboards) * XE beige opaque (to cover the original graphical chars) * black opaque for use with black PC keyboards * transparent for use with light PC keyboards Order now: * single set: € 9,95 (P&P worldwide inclusive!) * orders with the subject "Order CKS12", number of sets, version (brown, beige, black, transparent) and complete shipping address to C. Krueger. B (at) web. de (without blanks and @ (spam protection)) * after order, payment via German bank account (IBAN/BIC) or PayPal will be provided by email You can find the use instruction attached below. Note: To improve appearance, edge colouring of opaque stickers is recommended. (Good experience with "Stabilo M permanent" (brown/yellow/black)). cks12.pdf
  21. This was a very cheap thing to hack together: the C64 was almost free from a garage sale, and I used an $8 Arduino Pro Micro from Aliexpress. I've seen people connect an Arduino directly to the keyboard output, but I wanted to try something using the user port, as it's a very cool feature of the C64. Also I don't have any way to load or save data on the C64 at the moment, so there wasn't much else I could do with it! (the first project probably should have been a tape adapter...) Hardware-wise, I shared the USB and 5v C64 user port power, and connected the user port data lines from to 8 of the Arduino's pins, configured as digital inputs. The Pro Micro can act as a USB keyboard (so that bit's easy), so all I had to do was 1) Write a 2 line BASIC program (As short as possible as I have to retype it on power on) that dumps a byte to the user port alternately for the currently pressed key and current modifiers (Ctr/Shift/C=), and 2) Convert the 8 data inputs back into a byte in the Arduino, work out the corresponding key pressed, and send it to the USB keyboard. Seemed responsive enough for any lag to be not really noticeable, but I'd like to give it a more thorough test. IThe data could be pushed to the user port quicker by an assembler loop, which would probably decrease the lag. Connecting to the C64 was a bit Heath Robinson, as I don't have a proper user port edge connector and it's quite fiddly to build one. if I can construct a better edge connector or find a proper one I'll finish it off and take some photos. Of course, configurable keys, macros, key combinations for nonexistent keys etc. would all be pretty easy to do in software on the Arduino.
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