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Found 6 results

  1. This is a question I've wondered about for some time. I'm interested to see what the averages are for displays people use to retrocompute. My displays have averaged from about 212 to 220, with various monitors and televisions (never used an LCD). The current monitor I use displays about 220; It's a JVC BM-H1300SU Studio Monitor. I'm not looking for exact numbers, obviously, since this poll just allows for even numbers to be selected. It's close enough for me. Use the attached executable Atari image file to make your determination by getting your upper and lower numbers and then subtracting the upper from the lower for the total. For those with quite curvy monitors, you can adjust your numbers accordingly to reflect visibility at full width if you like, but it's not necessary. Selections are available for the various types and both NTSC and PAL: CRT Monitor (Real Monitors), LCD Monitor (of Any Type or Related Tech), and CRT Television. If you have monitors in multiple categories, you're welcome to enter as many as you'd like. If you'd like to post information about what monitor(s) you're using, that'd be cool too. Altirra diplays 224 scanlines for NTSC and 240 for PAL, and these are the dimensions you'll get when saving a screenshot with Altirra. Altirra - NTSC Screen Height.xex
  2. I recently fixed up the screen of an original Game Boy (DMG-01) by using the "soldering iron method" below the LCD panel to remove the vertical lines on the LCD. It started to work fine again. However, about a week later, the screen suddenly became blank except for one vertical line on the left of the screen (see pic). With the contrast turned all the way up the screen was all black with no missing lines - which should be fine. So I used my soldering iron anyway to smooth out the traces on the LCD again - there seemed to be a few lines on the left side that were flickering as I ran across them, but they got fixed up till they went away. However, when I tried playing again I still got the blank screen with vertical line, and the screen was still all black with the contrast turned up. Anything else I should try to this unit before I give up? BTW the sound is still there and the buttons seem to function.
  3. I got a bit interested into light gun games and coding lately. So I had a look at the two existing Atari 2600 games (Sentinel and Shooting Arcade) and the discussion about it. Also looked at Eckhard Stolberg's guntest code. But before I can start coding anything, I obviously need a light gun. It seems that the Atari light guns are not very precise (maybe the existing detection code is bad too), many people suggest using a Sega light gun or the one from Best Electronics instead. I could not find how to order one from Best, so I wonder if I should buy a Sega one. But that one would have to be modded for Atari compatibility. Seems quite simple, but my soldering skills are not existing. Is there maybe an adapted I could buy? I have some ideas how to improve precision over the existing code. Probably the existing games could be hacked. And maybe some interest for making a new game (before all CRTs are gone) could be created.
  4. From the album: My Home

    Here's a photo of my Amiga A1200, the final Amiga microcomputer from Commodore after the A500 and A600 (of course, there were also desktop Amiga computers with more expansion capabilities, but I like the micros) which came out in 1992. It's running Workbench 3.1 which is installed on an 8GB SanDisk Compact Flash card in an IDE-CF adapter, and I have a mild expansion in the form of a DKB Cobra accelerator with a 28Mhz 68030 and 64MB RAM.
  5. Before I get my light gun, I started wondering about the problems with LCDs and how to overcome them. Unlike a CRT, modern LCD have lags and delays. A simple light gun detection for a CRT works like this: When you pull the trigger a black frame will be displayed and detected Then a frame with a white square instead of each target will be displayed and detected Finally the game returns to the normal display of the game So display and detection are simultaneously for a CRT. For a LCD this is not the case. Here the reaction to a signal change is not immediate, so display and detection are not in sync. But the method with the white square should be working for a LCD too. The LCD display logic would be like this: When you pull the trigger a number (b) of black frames will be displayed. b depends on the maximum time the LCD needs to switch from any brightness to black (or something detected as black). Then a number (w) of white frames are displayed. w depends on the time the LCD needs to switch from black to white (or something detected as white). Finally the game returns to the normal display of the game The detection logic is decoupled: When you pull the trigger, the game logic waits for l + b frames and then tries to detect black l is the display lag of the LCD. w frames later, the game tries to detect the white square. The picture below shows how the display types react to signal changes. At 0.5 (example brightness value) the normal game screen is displayed. When at the beginning of frame 0 the light gun trigger is pulled, the CRT reacts immediately and displays black (0.0) in frame 0. The LCD continues to display 0.5 for two frames and then needs another two frames to finally reach 0.0. The CRT displays the white square (1.0) in frame 1. The LCD needs some frames to switch from 0.0 to 1.0 and reaches 1.0 in frame 8. Then CRT (immediately) and LCD (slower) switch back to the game screen (0.5). The example LCD values in the picture are: l = 2 b = 2 w = 3 g = 2 (time required to switch from white on black to game display) Here the whole process requires 11 frames (instead of 2 for a CRT), for 9 frames the LCD screen is flickering. The flicker will become much more noticeable, especially on slow LCDs. And it extends by one frame (CRT and LCD) for additional targets detection. The LCD values vary between LCDs and even for one LCD depending on its settings and mode. To identify the values, a calibration is essential. So these are my thoughts. Please correct me where I am wrong or missed something.
  6. About 10 years ago I was given a this old laptop. When I received it, it ALMOST kind of worked. It was unable to boot. It came up with a boot error, regardless of what drive, disk, or OS it was given. It also crashed every three minutes or so. The years have not been kind, and now it refuses to try. My original game plan was to rebuild it for DOS games, but now I’m looking to take a more MAME approach. The current display is a Sanyo lcm-5494. It’s a monochrome display. I can’t find a spec sheet, or ANY further information on. I’m looking to replace it with something newer and colored so I can update the machine. I’m thinking of rebuilding it to function like an HDMI PC stick dock, so it won’t outdate. Ideally, I need a 9.5” color LCD display with a controller and orientation of 4:3. I’d settle for a 9” display. Any new displays around these measurements are usually 16:9. Using a 16:9 display will either leave better than an inch gap in the display window, or force me to use a larger display and cut out the frame to accommodate. Insult to injury, a 16:9 display would break the vintage feel to the machine. The best lead I can find was Magnavox made small 4:3 TVs well in to the HD era, but I can’t find one under 15”. If anyone has any leads on a display, it would be greatly appreciated! This is a project a decade in the planning and I’d like to get it off the ground!
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