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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
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  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
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Found 23 results

  1. Current status (20-Feb-2021): I'm sending out PMs to those who have expressed interest. I'm doing this in the order that people responded. Initial Post (mostly) (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision. These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 Quantity 2+: $20.50 each Quantity 4+: $19.00 each Quantity 8+: $17.50 each [initial orders will probably be in the $17-$19 range each, regardless of quantity ordered (1+). This is because I'll be able to work on a bunch of orders one after the other, which will save time. Price later might be a few dollars more to account for time spent packaging single orders. Note that the exact price is to be determined, based on actual costs that I incur for the project]. I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes. They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front and back polarizer and reflector is not required). The green pad is still used, and the contact strips are still used. It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.
  2. 11-09-20 The NEW Microvision LCD display screen samples have completed final testing at the factory. Several demonstration videos have gone back and forth and everything looks good. The samples are being shipped back this week so I can evaluate them. The new LCD units were demonstrated working fine with the correct contrast(LCD voltage) control. There is a good window of the rear contrast knob rotation to compensate for battery depletion. I'll add new videos of the devices once they are checked out. 11-11-20 The samples arrived and checked out fine. I'll set up pre-orders on ebay and at the www.voiceofthemummy.com/staging website. Several games are supported here with Microvision in the list. The NEW LCD Pre-Order is listed on eBay and on the Voice of the Mummy website using PayPal. You don't have to have a paypal account to use this checkout. https://voiceofthemummy.com/staging/microvision-lcd-display/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/224090610358 International Orders. Please use the ebay item links. eBay takes care of the customs paperwork and has shipping protection for both the buyers and sellers. 11-14-20 NEW LCD install page. It will have both the standard "drop in" replacement LCD plus the backlight kit instructions. I'll add more pics and tips on installing these NEW LCDs once the xmas rush is over. 12-04-20 The backlight kits have been finalized. This will require one new zebra connector. The larger zebra connector is reused. This kit contains a NEW transmissive LCD(made for backlighting), a backlight unit and a new zebra connector. The backlight unit will have the current limiting resistor attached. There are 2 solder connection points pictured in further posts. 12-10-20 The NEW LCDs are due to arrive mid January 2021. 12-22-20 The production LCD units are being packed up for shipment. Scheduled delivery is still mid January. Once they are delivered, a small group will be checked out thoroughly. Then the orders will be filled. Before each unit is packed for shipment, each unit will undergo a quick check in the test jig. Stay tuned. 12-27-20 The backlight kits have sold out. 01-05-21 A new batch of backlit LCD kits have been ordered. These are due to arrive mid to late February 2021.These new kits can be pre-ordered on the website with paypal. You don't need a paypal account. https://voiceofthemummy.com/staging/microvision-lcd-display/ 03-02-21 DUE TO THE CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION, BACKLIT KIT PRODUCTION AND SHIPMENTS ARE DELAYED. Both the 2nd and 3rd batches will be begin shipping out 04-05. 03-25 The New Microvision Backlit LCDs Kits have arrived. Shipments will begin 03-29 Any units that were sent in for the backlit kit install will be started that week. They will be installed and shipped out based on order date. Also on ebay for international orders. Standard LCD replacement https://www.ebay.com/itm/224090610358 Backlit LCD kits https://www.ebay.com/itm/224305234088
  3. MAME 0.250 November has passed us by, and it’s time for MAME 0.250, with a distinct Konami flavour! On the arcade side, the third and fourth player positions are supported in NBA Play By Play, and lots of regional variants have been added for games running on Hornet hardware. We’ve also added support for a Konami hand-held LCD game, a Tiger LCD game based on a popular Konami franchise, and a prototype of an unreleased Game.com title in the same series. In addition to the Castlevania-themed LCD game, we’ve added licensed Tiger LCD games featuring Mega Man, Ninja Gaiden, Superman and Gargoyles characters, although the latter two are different skins for the same game. MSX computer emulation has had a major overhaul, with more supported systems and peripherals, including lots of cartridge port floppy drives. As a bonus, the Fujitsu FM Towns family gained support for more controllers, including the Marty Pad and the twin-stick Libble Rabble joypad. Hard disk issues affecting the FM Towns family were also tracked down and fixed. Atari 8-bit computer cartridge emulation has been modernised, and a few more unlicensed Game Boy cartridges are supported (you can now play some very famous unauthorised translations in MAME). The Quantel DPB-7000 is looking much better, with lots of progress on video output and peripheral support. Namco’s Alpine Surfer is now playable in MAME, and several graphical glitches that had plagued System 22 emulation have been banished. Support for Italian versions of Quizard has been added, and German versions of Quizard 3 and Quizard 4 Rainbow are now working, as well as a Czech version of Quizard 4 Rainbow. A missing line scroll effect in Seta’s Caliber 50 is now emulated, and some flickering graphics in Atari’s Return of the Jedi have been fixed. Other improvements include lots of fixes for invalid memory accesses, function keys for the Franklin Ace (Apple II clone) computers, proper DIP switch labels for Nintendo Vs. Mahjong, and much, much more. You can read about all the changes this month in the whatsnew.txt, and you can download the source code and 64-bit Windows binary packages from the download page. Read the rest of the entry
  4. This is a question I've wondered about for some time. I'm interested to see what the averages are for displays people use to retrocompute. My displays have averaged from about 212 to 220, with various monitors and televisions (never used an LCD). The current monitor I use displays about 220; It's a JVC BM-H1300SU Studio Monitor. I'm not looking for exact numbers, obviously, since this poll just allows for even numbers to be selected. It's close enough for me. Use the attached executable Atari image file to make your determination by getting your upper and lower numbers and then subtracting the upper from the lower for the total. For those with quite curvy monitors, you can adjust your numbers accordingly to reflect visibility at full width if you like, but it's not necessary. Selections are available for the various types and both NTSC and PAL: CRT Monitor (Real Monitors), LCD Monitor (of Any Type or Related Tech), and CRT Television. If you have monitors in multiple categories, you're welcome to enter as many as you'd like. If you'd like to post information about what monitor(s) you're using, that'd be cool too. Altirra diplays 224 scanlines for NTSC and 240 for PAL, and these are the dimensions you'll get when saving a screenshot with Altirra. Altirra - NTSC Screen Height.xex
  5. MAME 0.233 Are you ready for MAME 0.233? With dozens of reported issues fixed, over a hundred pull requests merged, and a flurry of development across all areas, our mid-year release is huge! Some of the more interesting machines added this month include several prototype JAKKS Pacific TV Games, the elusive English version of Namco’s Armadillo Racing, and the LCD hand-held game Space Mission from Tronica. There are lots of new Apple IIgs and Macintosh software list items, tying in nicely with the recently improved emulation of these systems, as well as an update to the Colour Genie collection, and a massive haul of MicroBee floppy dumps. A few more Mattel Juice Box cartridges have been dumped, allowing you to marvel at the poor-quality, 6 frames-per-second video. Significantly improved systems include the Atari Portfolio, Tandy MC-10, and Tandy VIS. Carl has continued to work on Japanese home computers, and Ville Linde is back this month, bringing a batch of updates for the Konami Hornet platform. Juno First, The Tin Star, The Empire Strikes Back have all had bugs squashed, and some of the last remaining regressions from the Yamaha FM synthesis rewrite have been resolved. David Haywood has turned his attention to bootlegs of games including Final Lap 3, Guttang Gottong, and Alien Storm. This release includes preliminary sound support for the Super A'Can console. On the topic of sound, some Yamaha synthesisers have been promoted to working, and MAME can now play back standard MIDI files to exercise machines that take MIDI input. There are several general usability improvements in this release, including updated Chinese and Greek translations, better configuration handling for slot devices, and a few small enhancements to the built-in user interface. Issues with artwork using SVG and Windows DIB (BMP) images on ARM/AArch64-based Linux systems should also be fixed. As always, you can find much more detail about all the action in the whatsnew.txt file, and the source and 64-bit Windows binary packages are available from the download page. Read the rest of this entry »
  6. Good evening all, I have a question for the lovely folks of Atari Age. As I have ran out of options here - so I am hopeful someone here can shed some light on the issue I have been struggling with. Backstory: I've gotten my self a 1995 Sun Ultra 1 Creator workstation. It is in excellent condition, and it works just perfect. I've even managed to score a Sun Microsystems 21" CRT display which is just a beauty. Now, as this monitor is way too big for any room I plan to keep it in, I've wanted to see if I can attach it to a VGA LCD monitor. The thing is, this workstation has the Sun frame buffer, and uses that "wonderful" 13W3 connection. Problem: I've gotten this 13W3 to VGA converted off eBay, as that was supposed to do the job. It arrived, I connected it to my Dell 19" LCD (P190S), but nothing. It kept flashing from time to time, but no picture showed up. After some digging, it seems that the issue is that the Sun systems are using a Sync on Green (SoG) output, so I need a monitor that supports that. Okay - I got a LG Flatron (19") that supports SoG. But again: nothing. Okay, maybe the LG cannot handle the refresh rates, let me get something that a lot of folks in the retro world use: NEC MultiSync 1990FXp. Still nothing, this one does not even flash from time to time. The question: What can I use to connect this old Sun Ultra workstation to a LCD VGA monitor? Am I missing something. Is it the monitor? Is it the frame buffer? Thank you all!
  7. I got a bit interested into light gun games and coding lately. So I had a look at the two existing Atari 2600 games (Sentinel and Shooting Arcade) and the discussion about it. Also looked at Eckhard Stolberg's guntest code. But before I can start coding anything, I obviously need a light gun. It seems that the Atari light guns are not very precise (maybe the existing detection code is bad too), many people suggest using a Sega light gun or the one from Best Electronics instead. I could not find how to order one from Best, so I wonder if I should buy a Sega one. But that one would have to be modded for Atari compatibility. Seems quite simple, but my soldering skills are not existing. Is there maybe an adapted I could buy? I have some ideas how to improve precision over the existing code. Probably the existing games could be hacked. And maybe some interest for making a new game (before all CRTs are gone) could be created.
  8. Hi Guys, New here but long time stalker! I have recently been recapping and modding a couple of game gears with the genuine McWill LCD kit from retrosix.co.uk. Really happy with the results but one thing I cant work out is if it is possible somehow to control the backlight brightness level using the original wheel or some other method? I have seen it in action on a YouTube video I stumbled across using the original wheel and I would really like to implement it if possible because I find the default brightness to be a bit hard on the eyes (especially if laying in bed at night) and because it is on max brightness all the time I find it still runs the batteries down fairly fast. From what I can tell it would appear that maybe some clone units now have the ability to have adjustable brightness but not the genuine real McCoy McWill ? Does this sound correct? Does anyone know of a a clever way to add this in potentially? Pics of my install below. I currently have 5v connected to pin 1 of the brightness pot and ground to pin 3 as per the instructions on console5 but do not have the backlight or cysnc points connected as per the instructions as I am not using the VGA output. I assume the 5v and Ground to the pot are still necessary though? Currently the brightness wheel doesn't have any effect at all.
  9. Hello, I just bought two retro Sega handheld consoles recently but I just realised that both of their screen are burnt as faulty. So I am look for an experienced repair for new LCD screens to replace them. I will happy to pay for LCD screens from websites like Ebay, Amazon, etc. I will pay you for your service to fix them. I will happy to drop them in Sydney metro but I don't mind to post them in only Australia as well. They are Sega Nomad Genesis and Sega Game Gear consoles. See pictures of them attached.
  10. it works, but the screen is faded, some strange lines and water-drops are under it. i heard that replacing the polarizer or reflector may solve the problem of faded screen, but i don't know about these lines and water-drops. anyone help?
  11. I thought that maybe some of you would like to see the GCE Arcade-Time Watch from 1982 in action:
  12. MAME 0.222 MAME 0.222, the product of our May/June development cycle, is ready today, and it’s a very exciting release. There are lots of bug fixes, including some long-standing issues with classics like Bosconian and Gaplus, and missing pan/zoom effects in games on Seta hardware. Two more Nintendo LCD games are supported: the Panorama Screen version of Popeye, and the two-player Donkey Kong 3 Micro Vs. System. New versions of supported games include a review copy of DonPachi that allows the game to be paused for photography, and a version of the adult Qix game Gals Panic for the Taiwanese market. Other advancements on the arcade side include audio circuitry emulation for 280-ZZZAP, and protection microcontroller emulation for Kick and Run and Captain Silver. The GRiD Compass series were possibly the first rugged computers in the clamshell form factor, possibly best known for their use on NASA space shuttle missions in the 1980s. The initial model, the Compass 1101, is now usable in MAME. There are lots of improvements to the Tandy Color Computer drivers in this release, with better cartridge support being a theme. Acorn BBC series drivers now support Solidisk file system ROMs. Writing to IMD floppy images (popular for CP/M computers) is now supported, and a critical bug affecting writes to HFE disk images has been fixed. Software list additions include a collection of CDs for the SGI MIPS workstations. There are several updates to Apple II emulation this month, including support for several accelerators, a new IWM floppy controller core, and support for using two memory cards simultaneously on the CFFA2. As usual, we’ve added the latest original software dumps and clean cracks to the software lists, including lots of educational titles. Finally, the memory system has been optimised, yielding performance improvements in all emulated systems, you no longer need to avoid non-ASCII characters in paths when using the chdman tool, and jedutil supports more devices. You can read about all the updates in the whatsnew.txt file, or get the source and 64-bit Windows binary packages from the download page.
  13. Hey all... I'm at a loss on this one... My electronics skills are fairly basic. I recently transferred my BennVenn screen over to another Lynx 2 (as it was in much better shape, I un-soldered the wires and soldered them onto another Lynx), initially it worked fine in my first brief test, which was great, but after removing the L17 Inductor the screen is now in reverse (like viewing in a mirror), the display is also over bright and flickering, has anyone come across this? I did some continuity checks between the LCD pads and the points on the Lynx all successfully beep. I'm worried now I've somehow trashed the LCD (via static or something?) ... I could replace all the wires, but I wasn't sure if there was much point if the continuity tests worked. I've dropped Ben and email, but the guy is probably hyper busy! The video shows how bright it is as it has to adjust the white balance. Thanks VID_20200605_221558_LS.mp4
  14. I'm trying to restore an arcade cabinet from 1983. The CRT monitor is shot and honestly, I'd rather have an LED/LCD screen in it's place. (Don't get me wrong, CRT, when working, looks great) I don't know much about how to connect the monitor and most of what I see out there has DVI and/or VGA ports which are clearly not going to connect on an old system arcade cabinet like this. Will this work? https://na.suzohapp.com/products/accessories/49-3223-01 Does this need an adapter to connect it to the arcade machine? Thanks!
  15. MAME 0.201 It’s the end of another month, and time for your scheduled MAME release, with more of everything we know you love. In a last-minute update, we slipped in a major performance for bgfx video output. It’s particularly noticeable when using cropped artwork, and there’s no longer a big performance penalty for bringing up the menu over the emulation on macOS. Another core improvement is support for TAP/TUN networking on Windows, providing a big performance improvement when connecting an emulated system to a network on the host machine. From the department of things considered lost to time, MAME 0.201 allows you to play as Chuby the octopus, in the incredibly elusive Spanish game Night Mare. Unfortunately the sound ROMs were missing, so you won’t be able to hear Chuby speak, and we still need to be on the lookout for the export version known as Clean Octopus. And speaking of rare games from Spain, two more Magnet System titles have been dumped: A Day in Space and The Burning Cavern. Newly dumped versions of supported arcade games include prototypes of Halley’s Comet (Taito) and Dog Fight (Orca), a newer version of the original Master Boy (Gaelco), and the Korean release of Raiden II (Seibu Kaihatsu). A redumped ROM allowed Psychic Force EX to run correctly. The vgmplay logged music player has had a big update in this release, with support for several more sound chips and a comprehensive software list. And this brings us to audio improvements, which seem to have all crowded their way into this release. We have fixes for long-standing sound bugs in Twin Eagle, Targ and Spectar. Sound in Amazing Maze is no longer cut off after thirty seconds or so. There are some big changes for QSound and Taito Zoom ZSG-2 that should make things sound nicer. There’s also preliminary support for the NEC PC-FX’s HuC6230 SoundBox, but be aware it has a DC offset so you’ll hear a big thud when you start or stop it. Recent improvements in NEC PC-98 emulation have seen dozens of titles promoted to working status, and we’ve added another batch of dumps from Neo Kobe Collection. There are a number of fixes that improve TI-99 floppy and cassette support in this release. InterPro systems can now be used via a serial terminal in configurations without a video card or keyboard. At long last, the Apple //c Plus can boot from its internal floppy drive. Other improvements to computer emulation include better keyboard support for Amiga systems, and improved GPU emulation for the HP Integral PC. Of course, you can get source and Windows binaries from the download page.
  16. MAME 0.200 Todays MAME release has two consecutive zeros in the version number! The only other time that happened was over twelve years ago! Although MAME version numbers are are just an incrementing number, by a series of coincidences, MAME 0.200 delivers several major changes. First of all, if youre building MAME with Microsoft Visual Studio (MSVC), youll need Visual Studio 2017. Weve dropped support for Visual Studio 2015. Starting this month, were building the official Windows binaries with GCC 7.3 this probably wont affect you (we still support building with GCC 5 and up). Were mirroring tagged releases at GitLab (source only) and SourceForge (source and binaries), so if for some reason youre unable to access GitHub, youll still be able to download official MAME releases. MAME 0.200 includes replacements for the memory system and callback API. This will enable new functionality and make MAME development more straightforward. The artwork layout system has also had an overhaul which opens new possibilities. Weve tried our best not to break things, but if you do find something wrong, let us know at MAME Testers, or on our IRC channel #mame on the freenode network. In arcade emulation this month, we have a number of new versions of supported titles, including a very rare prototype of Led Storm Rally 2011 and three more Street Fighter II': Champion Edition bootlegs. Dreamcast/NAOMI colours are greatly improved thanks to snickerbockers, and cam900 fixed some graphical effects in Gals Panic 3 and Billiard Academy Real Break. Enik Land improved emulation of the Sega Master System, Game Gear and Mega Drive VDPs, covering more corner cases. The really exciting emulation improvements this month are on the computer side. There are lots of improvements for UK home computers, including better Camputers Lynx tape support (with lots of additions to the software list), re-worked Acorn System emulation, and support for Acorn Bus slot devices. Weve got a brand-new modernised Apple IIgs driver, with improvements in just about every area. Also, Wayder updated the Sharp 68000 software list, correcting and organising the entries and adding the latest clean dumps. But even more exciting is the fact that, thanks to Patrick Mackinlays gargantuan effort and persistence, the CLIPPER-based InterPro 2000 workstation now works well enough to install and run CLIX (a UNIX operating system). As far as we know, this is a first for MAME. The improvements to SCSI, CD-ROM, and serial emulation also benefit other emulated computer systems. Instructions are on the MAMEdev wiki if you want to try it out. As usual, you can get source and Windows binaries from the download page.
  17. Before I get my light gun, I started wondering about the problems with LCDs and how to overcome them. Unlike a CRT, modern LCD have lags and delays. A simple light gun detection for a CRT works like this: When you pull the trigger a black frame will be displayed and detected Then a frame with a white square instead of each target will be displayed and detected Finally the game returns to the normal display of the game So display and detection are simultaneously for a CRT. For a LCD this is not the case. Here the reaction to a signal change is not immediate, so display and detection are not in sync. But the method with the white square should be working for a LCD too. The LCD display logic would be like this: When you pull the trigger a number (b) of black frames will be displayed. b depends on the maximum time the LCD needs to switch from any brightness to black (or something detected as black). Then a number (w) of white frames are displayed. w depends on the time the LCD needs to switch from black to white (or something detected as white). Finally the game returns to the normal display of the game The detection logic is decoupled: When you pull the trigger, the game logic waits for l + b frames and then tries to detect black l is the display lag of the LCD. w frames later, the game tries to detect the white square. The picture below shows how the display types react to signal changes. At 0.5 (example brightness value) the normal game screen is displayed. When at the beginning of frame 0 the light gun trigger is pulled, the CRT reacts immediately and displays black (0.0) in frame 0. The LCD continues to display 0.5 for two frames and then needs another two frames to finally reach 0.0. The CRT displays the white square (1.0) in frame 1. The LCD needs some frames to switch from 0.0 to 1.0 and reaches 1.0 in frame 8. Then CRT (immediately) and LCD (slower) switch back to the game screen (0.5). The example LCD values in the picture are: l = 2 b = 2 w = 3 g = 2 (time required to switch from white on black to game display) Here the whole process requires 11 frames (instead of 2 for a CRT), for 9 frames the LCD screen is flickering. The flicker will become much more noticeable, especially on slow LCDs. And it extends by one frame (CRT and LCD) for additional targets detection. The LCD values vary between LCDs and even for one LCD depending on its settings and mode. To identify the values, a calibration is essential. So these are my thoughts. Please correct me where I am wrong or missed something.
  18. Hello guys n' gals.... I have a DMG Gameboy with a screwed up LCD. The right part is darker than the left and it has a horizontal line.... (I think I bent the H/V ribbon cables too much...) Could it be replaced??? The LCD is custom, but I have been able to find simmiliar screen sizes and resolutions on the 'Bay... I'd try to get a Gameboy Pocket LCD if I could find them. Probably a Color/Advance LCD wont fit? Any options? Thanks....... Al.
  19. About 10 years ago I was given a this old laptop. When I received it, it ALMOST kind of worked. It was unable to boot. It came up with a boot error, regardless of what drive, disk, or OS it was given. It also crashed every three minutes or so. The years have not been kind, and now it refuses to try. My original game plan was to rebuild it for DOS games, but now I’m looking to take a more MAME approach. The current display is a Sanyo lcm-5494. It’s a monochrome display. I can’t find a spec sheet, or ANY further information on. I’m looking to replace it with something newer and colored so I can update the machine. I’m thinking of rebuilding it to function like an HDMI PC stick dock, so it won’t outdate. Ideally, I need a 9.5” color LCD display with a controller and orientation of 4:3. I’d settle for a 9” display. Any new displays around these measurements are usually 16:9. Using a 16:9 display will either leave better than an inch gap in the display window, or force me to use a larger display and cut out the frame to accommodate. Insult to injury, a 16:9 display would break the vintage feel to the machine. The best lead I can find was Magnavox made small 4:3 TVs well in to the HD era, but I can’t find one under 15”. If anyone has any leads on a display, it would be greatly appreciated! This is a project a decade in the planning and I’d like to get it off the ground!
  20. I recently fixed up the screen of an original Game Boy (DMG-01) by using the "soldering iron method" below the LCD panel to remove the vertical lines on the LCD. It started to work fine again. However, about a week later, the screen suddenly became blank except for one vertical line on the left of the screen (see pic). With the contrast turned all the way up the screen was all black with no missing lines - which should be fine. So I used my soldering iron anyway to smooth out the traces on the LCD again - there seemed to be a few lines on the left side that were flickering as I ran across them, but they got fixed up till they went away. However, when I tried playing again I still got the blank screen with vertical line, and the screen was still all black with the contrast turned up. Anything else I should try to this unit before I give up? BTW the sound is still there and the buttons seem to function.
  21. After pulling my Apple IIGS out of the attic, I plugged it in to my modern LCD TV via composite. However, upon boot up, the screen is garbled and jumpy. If i wiggle/twist the RCA connector at the IIGS end, i can fix the garbled video and jumpiness, however the colors are all wrong, as in they look very deadened/muted. Medium blue appears as a dark blueish grey, dark red looks like brown, yellow looks very faded, etc. Is this caused by the failure of a certain chip, should I replace the capacitors, or what? EDIT: I should also add that if I flip the switch on the back, and turn it on again, I have to wiggle the RCA cable all over again for a while to get the image to work. When viewing text, there are also several pink/green artifacts. Knowing that it is an Apple II on a color display, this could happen, but I just wanted to put it in here to be safe.
  22. Before anybody starts trolling about using CRTs over PC monitors, I just want to know if anyone on here has used a modded Atari with the Enko Composite to HDMI converter or something similar and had it work on a modern LCD/LED PC Monitor. I need to record some gameplay, so its important that I can use a PC Monitor. What I have currently is an ASUS VE247H. I know the converter works with my SNES and Sega Model 1 (but only with the 32X hooked up to it). I do not have a modded Atari though, and was wanting to know if I got mine modded, if it would work as well.
  23. From the album: My Home

    Here's a photo of my Amiga A1200, the final Amiga microcomputer from Commodore after the A500 and A600 (of course, there were also desktop Amiga computers with more expansion capabilities, but I like the micros) which came out in 1992. It's running Workbench 3.1 which is installed on an 8GB SanDisk Compact Flash card in an IDE-CF adapter, and I have a mild expansion in the form of a DKB Cobra accelerator with a 28Mhz 68030 and 64MB RAM.
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