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I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method. - The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models. - There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise. - Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles. - The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly. Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wire from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch Atari consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles. Power, Ground and Color resistor:- The UAV requires power and ground to operate . The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the leg and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well. NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:- The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. Audio Connection:- As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting. And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea.
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I recently picked up a Light Sixer CX-2600 but it came in a box that says Atari 2400. I have not been able to find any info on the existence of such a thing. Did they just make the boxes but not the systems? The only unique thing on the box says "Distributed in Canada by Irwin Electronics" so could this be special packaging used just in Canada?
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What is everyone's first Atari memory? I'm primarily thinking of the 2600. Mine was Christmas 1980.... All the presents, Santa's and Mom and Dad's, had been opened and my brother and I were playing with our latest Star Wars figures. My brother had Lando Calrissian in his hand (who would some years later be cut in half by a lawn mower in an "accident" when my brother learned to cut the grass). My Dad said "What is that under the TV? (We had a Zenith 25" console TV). My brother tossed Lando aside and we pulled from under the TV a glorious Atari 2600 light sixer. We received 3 games to go with the pack in Combat. Circus Atari, Defender and Missile Command. My brother's favorite was Defender and mine was Missile Command. We played the whole day, fighting on who's turn it was to play. I remember it was bitter cold outside and we were in our pajamas all day. It was toasty warm inside and as the sun went down the only light in the house was from the Christmas tree that had been on all day. My Mom was on the sofa next to us napping. My Dad, having to go to work mid day on Christmas, calling on our Harvest Gold rotary phone to check on us. Telling us we had to share and to follow "10 minutes for you and 10 minutes for your brother" system. Also telling us "Let your mom sleep and keep the noise down." That memory is so vivid in my mind to this day. Just hearing the name Atari brings back such happy memories and I wanted to share.
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Anyone know when in 1978 the Atari VCS "Light sixer" was introduced?
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My Atari 2600 Light Sixer Goes B&W When Tapped or slightly moved. Sometimes, if I toggle the B&W/Color switch, the color comes, back. Other times it doesn't. Sometimes will go to color if I toggle the switch from color to B&W, indicating that it seems to be more something loose/failing on the PCB rather than the toggle switches themselves. Any suggestions at what I should be looking at first? Thank you.
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Hello, I found this light sixer with this serial number. Can anyone tell me if is it an original serial number? Thanks
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Hello, I found this light sixer with this serial number. Can anyone tell me if is it an original serial number?
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Posted on Ebay My personal Atari 2600 light sixer with 2-3 channel selector. Power supply, 2 joysticks, a paddle controller, Video game brain RGA-1360, 103 cartridges no duplicates, 50 eproms plus adapter, 15 CIB title's a few of them are NIB, instruction manuals, owner's manual and other literature, The Atari game console box is Just A Box. A few rare title's and cartridge variations. Boxed title's- NIB- Gravitar Football Real sports baseball Battlezone Super Football CIB- Football Home run Juman Cannonball Jungle Hunt Joust Pole Position Miss Pac-Man galaxian Frogger Kangaroo. LOOSE- Cosmic ark Star Voyager demon attack riddle of the Sphinx gangsters Alley dragster Tapper Spy Hunter Star Trek -Flanged variant GI Joe Popeye Super Mario Brothers Pitfall Pitfall 2 Grand Prix Frogger 2 three deep Spider-Man Superman- Red text label Laser-blast Mega mania front line Donkey Kong jr. Qbert Crossbow Spitfire attack Mash Enduro- Blue Label skate boardin fast food coco nuts Space jockey Fun with numbers Basic math Speedway II Target fun Chopper command Hangman Congo bongo Yars revenge Dragon fire Pele soccer Bowling Space War Surround Space Invaders Planet Patrol Dodgem Mouse trap Atlantis- Day label Sky jinks Star wars Plaque attack I'm probably leaving a few out. Please refer to images. EPROMS- Dodgem ,Casinos, circus attack ,Donkey Kong, trickshot ,Frogger ,Custer's Revenge ,bridge, video chess, Grand Prix, Maze Craze,Pac-Man,barnstorming, warplock,Atari Checkers,Cosmic swarm, demons to diamonds, Diamond attack, surround, Stellar track, circus, Superman, inferno, Star Wars, human Cannonball, Golf, Street racer, skyjinks, barnstorming, night driver, laser-blast, Kaboom, baseball, Canyon bomber, slot racer, codebreaker, brain games, Checkers, surround, bowling, Stampede, concentration, freeway, breakout, space combat fishing derby skeet shoot skydiver Haunted House basic program Adventure space Chase Earth World super challenge baseball armor Ambush super breakout encounter Vanguard Crypt of chaos submarine command firefighter Defender star Voyager yars Revenge haunted house riddle of the Sphinx copper command Star Master football video chess skydiver 3D tic-tac-toe Warlords copter command backgammon Pitfall bezerk Missile Command Casino Space Invaders dragster Donkey Kong Dodge on ice h
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Hey everyone, I just finished refurbishing and cleaning this "light sixer" Atari 2600/VCS. It's a really beautiful light sixer. It has been completely cleaned with Iso 90, Deoxit and Contact spray where appropriate. Cleaned the entire case as well. I replaced the power switch, the power input plug, the voltage regulator, and cleaned/reflowed some points on the RF modulator board. The colors are brilliant now and everything lined up nicely with the Atari color diagnostics cart. Basic starter set with Keystone Capers, one controller, a brand new off-brand power adapter, and an RF to Coax adapter for plug in to your new TV. I have additional controllers, paddles, manuals, etc, for sale if interested. Buyer to pay for shipping costs. PM me with any questions. Asking $75 or will trade for some systems I don't have, like Colecovision, Intellivision, Vectrex, etc. Thanks for looking!
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Need a replacement lower outer shell for yours? Working on an Atari project and could use this piece from Sunnyvale? Look no further! The shell has been lightly cleaned and looks quite good for its age. There may be some scratches, scuffs, dust or dirt present. The Sunnyvale sticker is unmistakable and in good condition, with just a few stray markings. Includes all eight original screws, too. Please see pictures for exact condition. Shoot me a PM with your offers!
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From the album: My Consoles
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From the album: My Consoles
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From the album: My Consoles
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From the album: My Consoles
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Hello everyone, I just got a hold of a light sixer shell and it's not exactly in the greatest condition, but I was hoping to get some help and opinions on restoring it. I am needing some advice about the bezel though; I know I can replace it, but I'm running on a tight budget and was hoping to touch it up if possible, but I think it's beyond saving now, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask first. As you can see, there is some serious bubbling going on around the lettering, but I'm at a loss as to what I can do about it. I can't get a good shot of the wood grain at the moment, but it's very faded and yellow looking, so I will upload pictures of it later. Any suggestions would be extremely helpful. One more question would be does anybody know if Brad over at Best-Electronics sell light sixer bezels? Thanks
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Hi @ all, i'm new to atari 28 years old and my first console was a SEGA Master System 2. Atari 2600 was a few years before my time;) but i wanted to give it a try and have some retro fun. So i bought a big package containing a woodgrain light sixer, a Junior, 8 controllers and 35 games. So far so good... I connected the antenna cable of the Junior to my television (modern LG Flatscreen) and it worked perfectly. Colors and sound were all right. But the light sixer seems to have some problems. As far as i know they both use RF and both should output the same picture to my tv. But the light sixer just gives a bad picture with totally wrong colors (always the same way wrong.... see Pictures) or just Grey (and even that very poor). I tríed it on different channels (switch A-B on the console and different settings on the tv) and i even tried it on an old TV (also see pictures) Had anyone this problems too? Is something broken? What could it be? Can it be repaierd? I planned to do a AV Mod. I already ordered this kit (still waiting for it) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Atari-2600-7800-A-V-Composite-Video-Mod-Kit-NTSC-PAL-DIY-/171149875461?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d953d905 Could this mod help with the picture even if it's that bad rigjt now? I'm unsure what to do because the light sixer should already output the same Picture as the Junior... and if i do this mod and it's still the same the broken light sixer is even less worth and i put the work into it for nothing Any idears? EDIT: i only got one PSU with both consoles... no idear if it could make a difference... it's one like this http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262.jpg http://www.konsolenkost.de/images/produkte/i90/9030262-1.jpg EDIT: as far as i know my light sixer should be PAL. At least the seller told me that. Sadly there's no sicker on the back... how can i find out if the light sixer is PAL or NTSC? Any internal part that Shows this clear? If the console is NTSC i contact the seller and want my Money back.
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Hey, all... I recently bought a Light Sixer that posted about in another thread, trying to figure out where it was made (no serial number sticker). In researching that, I found one other person whose L6 has the same "Property Of Atari Inc" hot stamp on the interior of the casing, and theirs also has a weird orange (and blue?) marking on the bottom of the casing, where the serial sticker would be. Here's their thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/198685-light-sixer-question/. When I bought mine, I figured it was just wear-and-tear from the 30 years since it was made, and mine wiped off easily before I realized it wasn't. But finding someone else whose L6 has 1) No sticker, 2) "Property Of Atari" hot stamp, and 3) THE SAME orange marking mine had tells me that the marking means something, and came from Atari that way. Someone here has to have the knowledge of what those markings were for, and where they were used. There's also a blue slash across the paper ticket taped to the shielding, like the one in this thread: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/165050-does-every-atari-have-this/?do=findComment&comment=2038801 What does that orange/blue scribble mean? Is it related to the "Property Of Atari" hotstamp and the fact that neither of these have a serial sticker? Where were these made? Were these the ones issued for promo kiosks? Seems close to Curt Vendel's recollection, but not spot-on what he was saying: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/19000-how-rare-is-the-atari-vcs-cx2600-sunnyvale-edition/page-2 I've attached the relevant "orange mark" photo from that first linked thread (not taking credit for it!) ----- Here's the data on my console: Date stamp on casing - “470" Taped Paper on shielding: - Nov 14 1980 Green Side of Board: C012173 Rev. B Stamped on interior top of casing: (Left side) L&W G C010307-A (Right Side) Property Of Atari Inc. Sunnyvale, CA 94086
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VCS Light Sixer no-color issue, not quite black and white
phattyboombatty posted a topic in Hardware
Hey all— did a pretty thorough search the past few days on this issue, and I've honed in on the issue being either the .22 mF cap (chicklet) or the TIA chip. But I'm hoping it's something that I don't have to sell out to Radio Crack for… The reason for the new topic is because I completely rebuilt the power switch, which had solder cracks, but before I detected the breaks, the janky switch would yield color off-and-on while I was toggling it. Now it's just a faded sepia tone. Wondering if I pushed the fragile cap over the edge with the heat of the iron or what. This is a beautiful Sears Video Arcade and I want it to hummmmmmmm! Any help would be appreciated!