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Found 64 results

  1. As a kid I got most of Mattel Electronics handhelds. Always treated them fairly well and kept the boxes, instructions, etc. For the last 30+ years, every few years or so, I'll take them out and play a few games. This week, when I took out Mattel Electronics Auto Race, it seemed to have died. After some fiddling, I managed to fix it. Here's a summary, in the hopes that someone else out there with a similar problem might be able to fix theirs also... Last time I played the game a few years ago, for the first time in maybe 7-8 years, I noticed that the LED's were kind of flickery (which I didn't remember them being years ago), and the game seemed to play slower than I remembered. Also, sometimes you'd have to turn the on/off switch a couple times to get the game to start....sometimes you'd turn it on and there'd just be faint blips scattered on the screen, or the screen would stay black. Oh well, it mostly worked, so I didn't mess with it. The other day I went to play the game and couldn't get it to play at all. Turning the switch to 'start' usually did nothing. Occasionally if you flicked back and forth, or wiggled it around a bit, you could get some random blips to show up, but it wouldn't actually play. So I decided to take it apart and take a look. The big problem with these Mattel handhelds? Those stupid triangle screws. 2 solutions that I know of. One (the good way), is to find a 3-sided, triangular shaped metal file that tapers to a small traingular point. I've got one from my grandfather, must be 75 years old, that just fits the screws pretty good. Not sure if they still make/sell files like this, but there ya go. Second (the bad way), is to just carefully drill out the screws using a drillbit just slightly smaller than the screw head. You'll get it apart, but will later have to superglue the case back together (or use rubber bands to hold it). Pull the steering button off - it was difficult on mine, but if you just keep pulling straight up and *carefully* wiggling it back and forth, it eventually pops off. Now you can remove the entire circuit board and take a good look. I assumed the problem was with the on/off switch. First I tried using wires with small alligator clips to jump the posts attaching the switch to the board, thus bypassing it and making the game always be "on". Doing that, the game would sometimes come on and play the way it had a few years ago....flickery LED's and seemingly slower gameplay. Sometimes the screen would just get random garbage blips on it. Sometimes it would start to play, and then crap out. Hmmm. Maybe not the switch, maybe one of the components is just fried. Then I was noticing a small "pot"...a little circular thing with a slot in it that you can turn with a screwdriver. You often see these in old computers (like the Atari 8-bits), and videogame systems, where it works as a color adjustment knob. Why is it in this Auto Race game??? I turned it a bit. After doing so, the game played flawlessly again....solid bright LED's, it played faster (the way I remember it being originally), and oddly enough the On/Off switch works fine all the time - it's no longer flakey. Turns out that little adjustment knob controls the speed of the game. If you play around with it you can make the game play slower or faster. So what happened? I guess after not being moved for 40 years the contacts got worn/corroded/whatever. Just moving it a bit moved the contacts to a 'fresh spot' and solved the problem. If you have a Mattel Electronics Auto Race game that seems dead, broken, acts strangely, or the start switch seems to be messed up, give this a shot. Hopefully someone else benefits from the info (because I myself was searching for "Mattel Auto Race repair" and came up with nothing!).
  2. I've been playing around with REXPaint (A fork of Asciipaint) to find something to help with screen and graphics creation. As a start I've created some Aquarius font png's to drop into REXPaint: Download REXPaint and add the png's to the \data\fonts directory of the program and edit the _config.xt file to add the following lines: Still early day's yet, the default screen is bigger than on the Aquarius so may be possible to use it as a virtual map? I also need to have a look at exporting from REXPaint to make use of the data all help appreciated!
  3. From the album: My Collection

    This Is just to test out the new camera I'm using.
  4. From the album: My Collection

    This game is impossible to photograph properly
  5. From the album: My Collection

    I'm running out of real estate Please ignore the bed.
  6. From the album: Intymike´s collection

    German versions of Checkers, Backgammon & Soccer - still shrinkwrapped - front

    © photo by Michael Luenzer

  7. It took me a long time to rebuild the files and edit part two, but it's finally here!
  8. From the album: My Collection

    These four consoles are by far the cheapest to buy and easiest to collect for. If you want to collect for Studio II, Astrocade, Channel F, Arcadia 2001 (Why are there so many of these?), APF-MP1000, Creativision, Adventure Vision, 5200(?), or vectrex (Sadly) you are a bit crazy perhaps. I'm looking at the Wikipedia page for second generation consoles... Why are there so many?!? No wonder the market crashed There were like... 18 different consoles worldwide... and that's just silly.
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