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Found 33 results

  1. How many of you would be interested in taking part in an online 'group hardware project'? The idea would be to gather interest and settle on a project a month or so in advance, commit to purchasing parts in a 'group buy' (+1) and then when we receive our kits, we all start building our projects together. This could be a learning experience for some, and just plain fun for others. In the end we'll all have something new our TI setups! In << THIS >> old poll, it showed a lot of us already have soldering irons!
  2. Hi, I am trying to build my first mod for my 2600. It is an LED mod. I am trying to purchase the parts (not much to them) and am curious what does the led have to be rated for the 2600. All I know is the 2600 takes .5 A and 9 V. What does that mean for the LED? The wire is rated for 24 AWG right? This was the site I was going to order off of. https://canada.newark.com/search?st=led%20red Thanks in the future if anyone responds.
  3. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  4. Hi, I tried some simple composite video mods for my Atari 2600 with terrible results: Blurry image, ghosting, dark image, etc. Then I designed my own mod and it works good enough for me. I wanted to share it with all who want to give a try. First you need to remove some components from the board. I prefer to remove all unused components and store them. But if you are more conservative then remove the following components only Also, you need to remove or disconnect the "RF Modulator Module" and built the Video Amplifier. I designed two simple video amplifiers: The first is a simple one stage amplifier. This circuit Works good but due to the limited gain of only one amplification stage, there is some limitation in the brightness of the image. Most people will not notice it, but I wanted to ensure the best quality possible keeping it simple. The second is a two stage amplifier. This is still a very simple circuit with flat gain up to 4.2MHz (Composite video band width) which ensures brightness and color preservation with minimun distortion. Use the 5K trimmer to adjust the gain (brigthness) of the signal. Teorically you will have 0dB or unity gain with 1577Ohm. This is the Bode plot of my LTSpice simulation of the circuit This is the board with the circuit installed And finally this is the results: Video on a CRT TV Video on a LED TV
  5. Recently got an 2600 (Vader) and gave it an composite mod. That mod seemed to work fine for a few times but after a while gave increasingly more glitches with each power cycle. First blocks in the screen, then the games where effected by the power switch (in combat suddenly the tanks moved), then the image stopped working and just getting a buzzing sound and now I only get a black screen without sound. What could cause this issue?
  6. The title pretty much says it all. Has no one attempted/succeed at this? Google searches are fruitless. I feel like, out of several billions of people alive today, I may be the ONE person looking to output my Intellivision via Component. 🤷🏼‍♂️ I'm weird like that, I guess.
  7. From the album: INTV

    The Intellivision RGB mod, all buttoned up in a Sears SVA and looking mighty fine on my 43" Vizio D series HDTV, in glorious 1080p.

    © TJW 2019

  8. Select all the different memory configurations for machines you own (multiple selections possible). Include any plug-and-play devices used to boost memory too. I've probably missed a few esoteric upgrades. If you don't see yours, just pick the next lower amount on the list. I know there are upgrades far above 1088K, but memory above 1088K is pretty meaningless at this point -- other than bragging rights. If you have something that isn't mentioned and you want to talk (or brag) about it, go ahead and post. You can also post about your specific memory upgrade type if you like (i.e. Rambo 256K, etc.).
  9. Hello All. Finally got myself a Harmony Cartridge {Probably 10 years after everybody else it seems}. AND, it seems I'm living {or am going to live} the nightmare I've feared with these {multi}carts in the past {fortunately, I've had no major problems with any of the other multicarts/flashcarts I've obtained up til now}. First, I've only got an AV modded 7800 {2 actually} to test it on. When I first received it, I was able to briefly {1-2 seconds at most} on occasion get what appeared to be a garbled menu screen on one of my consoles. Other than that, it has been as if no cartridge is inserted in the console {i.e. single or multiple solid lines or blank screen, etc.}. I've since compounded the problems, and believe I have now deleted some of the main files/directories {i.e. program files that had the loader etc..-My SD card only has the following folders now: Drivers; Homebrew; Manual}. So, my 1st question is, can anybody guide me on how to rebuilding the directories that I've deleted? But, from there: Am I perhaps just out of luck with this thing? I've definitely cleaned the contacts as well as they can be cleaned. Is there any chance the problem is with the Cart itself? I've been attempting to contact the seller {I think Batari}, but have not been able to do so before extending the problems with this. If it's potentially the consoles causing the problems, then I do not wish to start fumbling with them-so that might be a dead-end for me because I do not want to buy a spare 2600 if I don't know pretty much 100% that the problem isn't with the hardware/cart? This concern is particularly real because I think I did the re-install of the Firmware properly before deleting everything tonight {only thing I struggled with was: What's the root directory? I chose E: for that choice}.? But, would that briefly appearing garbled menu indicate the hardware/cart itself is fine? or might it indicate the problem could be with the hardware/cart itself? {A note here: After attempting to reinstall the firmware, I no longer was able to get that garbled menu anymore}. Lots of questions. So, sorry this inquiry is all over the place. {I went back and put bolds where the main inquiries are for this topic}. I hate to think I've got an unusable "BRICK" on my hands, which, of course, was by no means cheap, but I also don't want to piss anyone off if I were to pursue recourse in that regards {Some day I'd like to be ahead of the curve with all of the great products out here to be had - such as, perhaps, a 7800 multicart?}-{Note here too-I'm currently licking my wounds after "discovering" the latest SGM for C-vision, only to realize I just missed the pre-order deadline-so I surely am a hard luck story here}. I'd hate to accept that my knowledge of the 2600 might remain limited to Seaquest, Phoenix and the several other titles I have, but am afraid the current can of worms I see open before me is not going to resolve itself anytime soon, and, if it can't be resolved soon, then I may have to bury it in my backyard or crawlspace until I forget it and stop trying to resolve it. I hope someone can make sense of the mess here that lies above, and help me on my way to resolution? {or make me an offer to get it off my hands? lol - I hope?} Thanks.
  10. Where's the best place to get a Colecovision AV mod kit?
  11. First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
  12. So a few weeks ago I was going through the closet at my granparents house. I found about 30 2600 carts, but when I asked about where the 2600 was, they said my reclusive uncle who lives about 100+ miles away took it about 20 years ago. Working 2600's go for about 50 bucks if i'm not mistaken. Is there any way to build an NES cartridge with a connector port on top that accepts 2600 games and is able to play them using NES Hardware (maybe using dip switches on the converter to select difficultly and game modes)? I don't have very much programming knowledge at all but I am a fast learner. I can solder OK. I have an original front loader NES and a Retron3 avalible to me.
  13. From the album: My Collection

    I did not do this, This was done back in the 80's by somebody who REALLY liked this controller and wanted to use it on their Atari computer (Probably) The controller does function but the controls are reversed forcing the player to hold it backwards,also it has a dead zone the size of Kansas, all or nothing whatsoever. Yes That is Duct Tape
  14. From the album: My Collection

    I did not do this, This was done back in the 80's by somebody who REALLY liked this controller and wanted to use it on their Atari computer (Probably) The controller does function but the controls are reversed forcing the player to hold it backwards,also it has a dead zone the size of Kansas, all or nothing whatsoever.
  15. Hello! today i did build a Composite mod for my atari 2600(PAL) based on the mod that you can buy from ebay. But i did only see this on the screen when i turned it on. I was not able to cut the R213 because i could not find it. i need help on this one. The Picture is from space invaders.
  16. Looking to buy a Pre-Modded Sega Satun. I have a pro-action replay 4m so region shouldn't be a concern. Alternatively if anyone offers the service to mod a version 1 saturn (oval buttons) that I own I would also be interested. PM me! THanks!
  17. Hello To All I need assistance we getting a 2-button mod for a Champ Coleco Adapter. I sadly lack the time, space and equipment to do the mod myself. Details on what I need are here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/214256-colecovision-champ-adaptor-2-button-modification/. The mod is simple, easy and I am willing to pay for it. Please contact me if you are willing to do it.
  18. Found in cart slot of a old 800 I picked up on eBay, Help identifying would be appreciated. Thanks!
  19. Hey everyone. I am just starting to try my hand at modding one of my consoles on my own, and I am considering adding component to my SNES mini. I have seen a mod the runs from the RGB chip, thru resistors and caps, and then out thru 9 pin din (I think) out as RGB to a converter. My question is whether it is possible to take the video signal out through component using the same method. If this is crazy wrong please let me know. Thanks for your time either way. Mike
  20. I have long been an observer, but I am now finally joining to contribute, so hello world! My question revolves around something I read on another thread. Essentially, it was that even while turned off the design of the lynx's power regulator means that the lynx still drains the batteries unless you remove one. My question revolves around the fact I notice (at least in the case of the lynx 2 I own) that the unit does not power on without a cartridge inserted. Since as I understand it, the lynx is in a perpetual "standby mode", but does not respond without a cart, is that high enough in the circuitry that the regulator does not run without a cart inserted, or is it just necessary in closing the switching circuitry? If it still drains power without the cart inserted, does anyone know a workaround to this problem? I'm considering changing the power switch into a hard switch and disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries that way. Thank you in advance! Matt
  21. From the album: Atari 2600 Gameplay on YPbPr Component

    My Atari 2600 4-Switch Woodgrain Console Modded for Composite A/V, S-Video and YPbPr Component using Tim Worthington's (etim's) 2600RGB Mod. with an additional 2600RGB to Component Add-On Board. I'm very happy and pleased with this mod.

    © Activision Man aka SavyIsJoshoArts

  22. From the album: INTV

    New daughter board used for Inty RGB mod - made wiring/soldering mini DIN connector much easier.

    © TJW 2019

  23. From the album: INTV

    Inty RGB mini DIN connector on back

    © TJW 2019

  24. From the album: INTV

    Inty RGB board soldered up

    © TJW 2019

  25. I just wanted to know if anyone has built an actual PCB replacement for the CX52 joysticks. Seems like that would be a better route to go than adding gold contacts to the various revisions of the Flex circuits. Sure, it would probably make it a wiring mess like the Colecovision standard controllers but I'd speculate it would still be doable and reliable...
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