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Hi everyone! I am attempting to play an Atari 2600 on a modern-day television. Specifically, on the LG - 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV. Its specs are a little different than your average digital TV, I believe. At least different enough to not be compatible with the recommendations I see for using an upscaler. Because it's not a 60hz TV; it's 120hz. And apparently that causes...interface problems with upscalers most ppl are using. So that's fun, right? LOL.... There is also some question as to HDMI being used, tho I am not entirely clear on the reasons associated with that. This model encompasses both HDMI 2.0 as well as HDMI 2.1 (thank goodness)....which other LG OLED models do not. Apparently HDMI 2.0 is getting "phased out"....but this model, thankfully, still allows its use! Something else of note....is the "Resolution" with this model. It's listed at 2160p (not 1080p)......is that unusual? I expected it to be 1080p. And since that is double what other models I've seen list, how does that impact use of an upscaler, or even use of an Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) in this process of getting the Atari 2600 to play (well) on this model of TV? Here are the full specs of the TV in question, the one that will be used to play the Atari 2600 on. From the BestBuy website: ___________________________________ Specifications Key Specs Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Refresh Rate 120Hz Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant General Product Name 77" Class CX Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV Brand LG Model Number OLED77CXPUA Series CX Series Model Year 2020 Color Silver Color Category Silver Dimensions Product Height With Stand 40.3 inches Product Width 67.8 inches Product Depth With Stand 10.6 inches Product Height Without Stand 39.1 inches Product Depth Without Stand 2.2 inches Product Weight With Stand 79.1 pounds Product Weight Without Stand 58.9 pounds Adjustable Stand Width No Box Dimensions Height 44.5 inches Width 74.6 inches Depth 11.2 inches Display Display Type OLED Resolution 4K (2160p) Screen Size 76.7 inches Screen Size Class 77 inches High Dynamic Range (HDR) Yes High Dynamic Range Format Dolby Vision, HDR 10, Hybrid Log-Gamma (HLG) Picture Quality Enhancement Technology Cinema HDR Curved Screen No Refresh Rate 120Hz Closed Captioning Yes Language(s) Displayed English, French, Spanish 3D Technology No Features Remote Control Type Magic Specific Manufacturer Technologies HDR Dynamic, Tone Mapping Pro, Advanced Contrast Enhancer, Face Enhancing, Ultra Luminance Pro, Billion Rich Colors, True Color Accuracy Pro Smart Capable Yes Smart Platform webOS Featured Streaming Services Apple TV+, Paramount+, Crackle, Disney+, Fandango, Google Play Movies & TV, Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Peacock, Prime Video, Redbox, SHOWTIME, SIRIUS, STARZ, Sling TV, Spotify, Twitch, Vudu, YouTube, YouTube TV, iHeartRadio Screen Mirroring Yes Screen Mirroring Technology Miracast Indoor Or Outdoor Use Indoor Text-To-Speech Yes Video Description Yes V-Chip No TV Tuner Digital Connectivity Number of HDMI Inputs (Total) 4 Number of HDMI 2.1 Inputs 1 Number of HDMI 2.0 Inputs 3 HDMI Audio Return Channel (ARC) Yes Number Of USB Port(s) (Total) 3 Number of USB 2.0 Ports 3 Ethernet Port(s) Yes RF Antenna Input Yes Bluetooth Enabled Yes Bluetooth Version 5.0 Network Compatibility Built-in Wi-Fi, Ethernet Number of RS-232 Inputs 1 Headphone Jack Yes Number of Digital Optical Audio Outputs 1 Number of Component Video Inputs 0 Number of Composite Video Inputs 1 Number of DVI Inputs 0 Compatibility VESA Wall Mount Standard 400mm x 200mm Works With Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant Voice Assistant Built-in Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant Audio Built-In Speakers Yes Built-in Speaker Type Front firing Surround Sound Supported Dolby Atmos, OLED Surround Speaker Output 40 watts Power ENERGY STAR Certified No EPEAT Qualified No Estimated Annual Operating Cost 38 United States dollars Estimated Annual Electricity Use 313 kilowatt hours Rechargeable Battery (Remote Control) No Number Of Batteries Required (Remote Control) 2 Number of Batteries Included (Remote Control) 2 Included Stand Included Yes Cable(s) Included AC power Warranty Manufacturer's Warranty - Parts 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty - Labor 1 Year Other UPC 719192637177 ___________________________________ Thoughts on what type of upscaler (if any) or OSSC (if any)......to use to get this done? Really need to play the Atari 2600 on this TV!! Man I hope there is a solution to be found. I'm open to any and all suggestions!!! Please let me know what should be used; the things to get and use, etc....even if they are not OSSC or an upscaler. I just want to know how to play Atari again, on a modern TV; how that gets done though eludes me. Pls forgive the n00bishness. <3 Thanks in advance for any and all help! With appreciation, froggerchamp ---

I picked up an old CX-80 Trakball, which I've heard was intended for the 8-bit computer line, a while back but had no good use for it. I then bought a 2600-daptor D9 so I can use some vintage controllers on my PC when playing emulators. I have found the trackball to be excellent for games that used a trackball originally, especially in MAME. Being limited to only one button is kind of a pain though. Is it possible to modify one of the buttons, which are duplicates for ambidextrous control, to be a separate button and still work through the 2600-daptor D9?

Greetings. Old forum lurker here in need of some part-specific information regarding the physical switch on the switched CX22 trak-ball. The following text is mostly a copy paste of an old post (edited to become shorter) I did in a FB group for trak-ball enthusiasts. I recently (Dec 2020) came into possession of a Pro-line CX22 Trak-ball in a mostly decomposed box. New as I am in the wonderful world of sphere-based XY position devices, I had no idea that I should have asked about the switch... Turns out it's one of those first units without the trackball/joystick option switch. That was a bummer for me to discover as I wanted to use it mainly as a trackball on my Vectrex. Edit: Then I was asking if there was a way to put that functionality back in. Someone pointed me in the direction of the CX22 schematic where the circuit with the switch is also showing. Link below. http://www.atarimuseum.com/ahs_archives/archives/files/videogames/consoles/7800/7800trakball/7800trakball-cx22-patch.gif Such a modification seems doable but is going to take some surgery to the PCB, but I'm not afraid of that. I ordered the missing components (that I didn't already had on hand in my parts box) from ebay. Mainly the inductor and the IC responsible for the switching of signals when the physical switch is flipped. Right now I am hung up on the actual switch. What kind and type of switch is it? Is it a four pole double throw switch? If anyone can shed some light on this trivial matter that somehow is holding me back from going ahead with the modification, I would appreciate it greatly.

Okay, the time has finally come. I'm going to make a new drop-in replacement PCB for the ColecoVision. Other form factors such as portables could be made in the future (but not right now). This is still a ColecoVision; I've been calling it a CV-1.2. It's a regular CV with some improvements; it's not the next generation CV-2 with more graphics modes, audio channels, bits, etc. Here's the feature list of the CV-1.2: Component (YPbPr) video output - both RCAs and 1/8" jack provided Composite video output - both RCA and 1/8" jack provided - I don't really want to add this, but I'm guessing it's pretty much required, right? VGA (pure analog, not an F18A type solution) video output - I'm not sure if this will work yet, so don't count on it Audio output - both RCAs and 1/8" jack provided - mono of course, but two outputs available for stereo TVs 24K RAM - for Adam conversions such as Super Zaxxon and Dragon's Lair Static RAM for VDP - instead of DRAM Extra controller ports - to use 2 button Atari 7800 (or 2600), Sega SMS, Sega Genesis controllers Extra keypad support - could be added on the top of the CV console (useful if using Atari or Sega controllers) Easily replaceable controller input chips Single +5V input - either via standard CV power supply or smaller/efficient adapter Internally created -5V and +12V output - Atari Expansion Module support Output voltage for Roller controller - via standard CV power jack Power on LED - multicolour Alternate BIOSes - standard 10s delay, 3s delay, 10s/fire delay, etc. Pause button - capacitive so it's hidden (hopefully), also turns on light, and turns off audio output Built-in 31 game multi-"cart" - activated if no game is inserted Expansion module circuitry remains - for SGM and Atari Expansion Module support All new parts used - except for VDP and audio, which use NOS (new old stock) parts Fits in standard CV case - existing holes in back of CV will likely line up with A/V output and power input The features listed are meant to improve the quality of play of the system, for instance by adding proper video outputs, extra controller/keypad inputs, pause switch, and the simple multicart. The reliability of the system is improved by using static RAM for the VDP, allowing a standard 5V power adapter to be used (this should also make the power switch less finicky), making the controller input chips easy to replace, and using brand new parts. If there are features missing that you think should be added, please feel free to discuss. Unfortunately, this isn't going to be cheap. As usual, I'll do my best to make it as affordable as possible. I'd also like to make a bare-bones version that is still reliable, but doesn't provide some of the extras such as multicart, extra controller inputs, etc. As mentioned, a 31 game multi-"cart" is included. I don't want to add games that I don't have permission to include, so if there's anyone who has games or utilities that could be added, whether it be full or demo versions, please contact me. I'm not sure what kind of compensation could be given, but that's all up for discussion, I guess.

Hi folks, I am new at AtariAge. Months ago, I've got an AV-modded european Atari 2600 Jr. (Rev. F board) in a great condition for cheap. However, here at my country (Brazil), PAL-B compatible TV sets are rare to find. The closest color system that is supported by most TVs is PAL-N (PAL variation used in Argentina and a few more countries in South America). I tried to replace the 4.433618 MHz XTAL with a 3.582056 MHz one, but that gave me no colors in any PAL-N compatible set. Also tried to replace the 3.546894 MHz one with a second 3.582056 MHz XTAL, but still gave me nothing but B&W picture. Is there something I can do to make this console output PAL-N? Both systems are 50 Hz and have the same resolution, so it should work somehow. Thanks a lot!

So I picked up a "non-working" CV from eBay ($25, bundled with 2 OEM controllers, power supply, and Illusions). The also-bundled RCA output cable was severed and frayed at the end. Powered on, tested all 4 connections, voltage checked out. No picture with replacement RCA (using a RCA-to-coaxial adapter; love those things). Concluded it was the RF modulator, so I decided to give Ben Heck's composite mod a try (http://www.benheck.com/Games/Coleco/Video_Mod.htm). It worked!...with two unexpected results (both may be unrelated to the mod, I'm not sure). 1. There is about a five-second delay after the console powers on, after which the ColecoVision title screen has about a three-second fade-in. After fade-in, the picture and colors are as clear and perfect as composite can give me. I'm using a 32" Toshiba CRT; all other consoles using composite output don't have this picture delay. The micro-potentiometer in my mod is turned up all the way. I should also point out that I tested the mod's circuit, and all components--including the video out--were getting the proper voltage (~12V DC). Is this a normal/typical "side effect" of the Ben Heck mod? Or is there something wrong/off with one of the components? 2. I noticed these stray, square sprites in fixed positions in a few of my games. (See attached pics for reference.) I first noticed a couple of them in the rivets stage of Donkey Kong... and then I saw a couple on the level start screen of Illusions.... It was then that I inferred they might be appearing in the same places regardless of the game, and that they won't appear on a black/"null" background. And then I put in Zaxxon.... Eureka! There looks to be a vertical row of these sprites, evenly spaced, across the entire height of the screen. Has anyone seen/solved this issue before? Thank you each for your time and help with this one. Love ya, appreciate ya.

I'm entering that danger zone of the afternoon mental wall, so please forgive me if this has been discussed ad nauseum on the forum to little or no avail... But has anyone ever entertained the notion of coming up with an Atari 8-bit API (Atari Peripherals Index) that mod developers could use to allow programmers to identify add-ins and modifications of any given computer...? I picture it in my head as some sort of index that would work during the boot process, when the DOS or OS would do a cursory check of a pre-determined index in memory somewhere once the mods/add-ins are initialized. Each device would have an assigned API ID that, if found, sends the DOS or OS over to a special table where it would find allocated memory usages, device ID, and any other relevant information that could become accessible to the programmer either through the API vector, or direct (and risk later incompatibilities). This would have the added advantage of allowing multiple add-ins play nice with each other since the index and table assigns/allocates their respective memory addresses. It'd be the closest thing to an Atari PNP operation, too. Just a random brainworm... --Tim

Hi all, I was given a 7800 a few years ago minus it's power adaptor. I recently did an experiment to allow it to work with another adaptor of the same rating, but modding the connection. I've made a video on my YouTube channel showing how I did it. Please leave any constructive comments ) Video: Best regards Steve

One of my 7800s does not work with paddle controllers, and the other does not work with the Harmony cart. The one that does not work with the Harmony is an older model with the expansion port on board. I've read about modifying certain 7800s to make them more compatible with certain games like Robot Tank, but I don't know if that would help with the problem I'm having. What might be causing it to not work with the Harmony? It will usually boot up, then start to either roll & crash or just crash. Sometimes it won't boot the Harmony at all, other times I'm able to load a game before it crashes. Would replacing capacitors help, or changing/removing certain components or resistors as with the compatibility mod? Also, has anyone else heard of certain 7800s not working with paddles, and if so, is there a fix for this?