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Found 9 results

  1. Hi have a standard 4A system that will not turn on, after about two hours of investigation i find that the problem lies in the PSU inside the computer. The problem is that the slider does not move the internal switch far enough to make the connection to power the computer. I have thoguh about filing along the pre-existing grove to "extend" it so that there is more room to move. Are there any other solutions to this strange (Strange to me being a mechanical problem rather than electrical) problem? Samishal
  2. So I'm trying to consolidate the amount of damn mains plugs for my Atari stuff (among others) and after searching previous topics, the 9v requirement of peripherals seems to be a bit of stumbling block. I have absolutely no knowledge of power conversion and related topics, so can anyone electrical confirm if this solution would work for powering 1050s and the like, assuming the correct barrel connector is used? A multiport fast USB charger such as this along with step up USB cables such as this? And after typing that lot out i realised I was a bit of a dunce as 1050 etc. use AC power...Interestingly however, I did find this USB inverter that has completely the wrong type of connector of course, but shows that in theory (I think?) such a thing is possible. Anyone any thoughts?
  3. I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
  4. I have long been an observer, but I am now finally joining to contribute, so hello world! My question revolves around something I read on another thread. Essentially, it was that even while turned off the design of the lynx's power regulator means that the lynx still drains the batteries unless you remove one. My question revolves around the fact I notice (at least in the case of the lynx 2 I own) that the unit does not power on without a cartridge inserted. Since as I understand it, the lynx is in a perpetual "standby mode", but does not respond without a cart, is that high enough in the circuitry that the regulator does not run without a cart inserted, or is it just necessary in closing the switching circuitry? If it still drains power without the cart inserted, does anyone know a workaround to this problem? I'm considering changing the power switch into a hard switch and disconnecting and reconnecting the batteries that way. Thank you in advance! Matt
  5. While messing around on my 800xl yesterday, the colors on screen were sometimes strange. Turn off and on, wiggle cables, the colors would return to the correct colors...but change after a while. Then while in Basic, I watched as the background color drifted from blue to green over a 30 second span of time. At first I thought it was the monitor cable connector, but ended up discovering that I could make the colors change by slowly wiggling the cable of the power connection where it attaches to the connector plug. If it were an "ingot" I'd probably just toss it. But it is a black brick, so I'd prefer to keep it if it's easy to fix. A couple questions... - I've seen the pin outs for the plug. 3 +5 and 3 grounds. Are there actually 6 wires inside that power cable, or is it just 2 wires, each attached to 3 pins? - out of curiosity, I've wondered a few times through the years why Atari used a power connector with so many pins. Are those 3 "pairs" of pins connected to different parts of the circuit board, or are the 3 +5v pins tied together and just connected at one point on the board. If tied together, what was the point of having 3 separate pins? - back in the day I was into programming...the software side of things, not the hardware, so I never bothered to learn much about circuits, etc. But again, out of curiousity, how would a loose connection in that cable cause the odd color shifting I was seeing? I would expect a bad connection to cause the power to just cut out completely, not shift screen colors but otherwise keep functioning. Unless the 3 pins do have separate connections and just the pin going to the video circuit has a loose connection? - and lastly, the most obvious question.... What's my best source for getting a replacement connector? And possibly with wiring already soldered to the pins so that I can skip that somewhat difficult (for me) step and just splice the wires. Much thanks for any replies.
  6. Anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell? I posted the issue I'm having under classic gaming>sega. Got to thinking that maybe I can replace this entire piece if anyone has one available. Hopefully it's ok to post this here under Wanted. I don't want to cross post but thought this belonged here more than under my original post? I'm attaching a picture of the piece I'm hoping is the issue. I'd like to try the circuit board along with the red and white wires. My other option is to see if someplace local can repair or send it back for a refund.... meh! Thanks.
  7. I am trying to get the Atari 2600 to work but the power light won't turn on. Can anyone fix this?
  8. Anyone have one of these they would be willing to sell? I posted the issue I'm having under classic gaming>sega. Got to thinking that maybe I can replace this entire piece if anyone has one available. Hopefully it's ok to post this here under Wanted. I don't want to cross post but thought this belonged here more than under my original post? I'm attaching a picture of the piece I'm hoping is the issue. I'd like to try the circuit board along with the red and white wires. My other option is to see if someplace local can repair or send it back for a refund.... meh! Thanks.
  9. --- Ω ---

    UDS 10 Power

    From the album: Lantronix UDS-10

    Sometimes you can pick up a Lantronix UDS-10 on eBay... CHEAP. If it does not come with a power supply, a good quality 12VDC, 1000mA transformer will work quite well.
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