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Showing results for tags 'Problem'.
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Hello everyone! I've purchased an used Portfolio unit, which it seems to work fine expect for one thing. Every time I want to switch it on, I have to press one to two times the reset button. This happens only if the unit has been off for at least a hour or so, otherwise it turns on and off without any problem. And when this happened, after I turned it on, I see that the set time appears to be behind the current time, which make me think somehow is when the unit totally switched off, without being able to turn it on again normally. Is this a known issue or does anyone have a possible solution for this? Thank you in advance, Renato
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My Atari is having some color issues. Now green is displayed as blue, blue is displayed as red, and yellow is displayed as white. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks!
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I have a darth vader 2600 model. First I only played Night Driver and seems to work. But maybe is because this game is more binary left/right. All other paddle games the sprite move corner left to corner right, without gradation. Any hint where the problem can be? Thanks. -
Hi, all! I have a Heavy Sixer that, after a good cleaning, seemed to be working fine. I booted up Video Pinball and was playing through a second game when the game failed and goes all distorted, kind of like when the contacts don't line up properly between the system and cart. I had been playing on and off for about 15 minutes at that point, Super Breakout, then Kaboom!, then Video Pinball. It sounds to me like something is overheating and causing the failure after a little play time. Any suggestions on what I should be looking for/replacing/resoldering/etc.?
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Hello everyone, I have a problem with my colecovision. It worked fine when I used it last week, but when I tried to play some pepper II the screen started messing up. I've attached a video. Does anyone know what causes this issue? It's not the RF cable. VID_20210215_224823.mp4
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So I just bought a peripheral expansion box for my ti 99 4a. It has three cards including the 32k expansion. When I power the unit up, it keeps trying to access the disk drive continually and I can see that the 32k expansion light keeps coming on. when I pull the 32k expansion out and start it again, the disk drive initializes and stops running like it should. I can actually run programs that require the 32k expansion, but it keeps trying to run the disk drive and will not stop. I've opened up the expansion card and cleaned it and examined it but I can't find any problems. Any ideas on what I can do?
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Hy there. I got my very first Jaguar today. Hooked it up and it seem to work fine. Can't test much because I currently have no controller. Now comes the strange part. The start up screen has sound but is missing the growl when the Logo comes up. The music in the startup plays fine tough. Cybermorph starts up with sound effects but no music an no voice samples. What could be my problem? I am aware that the game could have mutet the sound by the previous owner but the partial missing sound seems fishy!
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Hi I have some problems with the colors of some of my PAL 60 games. The console I use is a composite modded PAL Heavy Sixer on a modern Samsung TV. The game is Zippy The Porcupine, and I haven't played it before, but I can definitely tell that the colors are all washed out. What's supposed to be red is pink and what's supposed to be blue is white. Other PAL games displays perfectly fine. I've added a photo to visualize what's happening.
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Hey everyone. Had a quick question for those of you familiar with Hardware because I really am not. i have a video issue with only certain homebrews and hacks. Original release 2600 games play fine, all 85 or so i own. It doesn't happen every time with the effected games, and when it does happen usually taking the game out and reinserting it once or up to 3 times will make the issue go away. could this be a power issue? Capacitors or something inside the system failing? Or simply just RF interference of some kind? I'm using a light sixer on a CRT through RF. I'll post a picture of one of the affected games and then a couple of pictures of regular games playing fine. thanks alot everyone.
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I've recently purchased a non-working Sega CD off of e-Bay that had a problem with the tray constantly ejecting and not spinning discs. After some minor gear realignment and a belt change I was able to get the tray working 100% but for some reason I am still not able to load any games . Strange thing about this is I am still able to play audio CDs just fine. I've tested the games it came with on a modchiped Xbox and they played fine so I am begining to think this may be some kind of laser issue. I've already tried all the basic cleaning steps and am ready to consult the experts. I want to bring this thing back to life! P.S. Any experience with generic KSS-240A laser pickups? -
Hi Im trying to fix this Commodore 64 but so far no success. When I power it up I get a line on screen (look at picture), after about 3 minutes the chips are slowly getting worm except for the PLA,SID and Kernal they get hot but just enough so that they can still be touched, i probed with my scope pins 1 and 39 on cpu and the clock seems fine ,how do I proceed from here I am suspecting the PLA but dont have another Commodore to test it I heard that I could test the chips using a arduino but probably would need a code for that.
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First of all, Hello everyone, i'm new in this forum. Recently I've bought a Mc will mod for Game Gear and I have a problem: When I press 1 and 2 buttons at the same time, the screen change its scale. Normally this only happens when you press 1, 2 and start button too at the same time. Does anyone know if it's possible to fix it?, becouse is a bit annoying because some games needs to press 1 and 2 bottons at the same time. Thank you in advance.
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Recently I had acquired a Colecovision, and hadn't gotten around to plugging it in because I had no games. Once I got some games and tried to play, the CV's RF output had a green tint, and looked as if I was playing on a GameBoy screen. There was no color, and all the graphics were just various shades of green! I tried to reflow solder on the RF board to no avail, de-soldered and checked the RF board and the components underneath (no difference), cleaned the power switch (which did not work) and even tried poking around the graphics chip and saw absolutely no difference in color whatsoever. I'm at wits end trying to figure out what is wrong with this CV. Attached below are a couple of pictures from the system on my Trinitron TV. This also came up on a flat screen TV as well. Any ideas?
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Hello all, I'd like to begin by saying that I am by no means a negligent/careless owner. I was never rough with my Jag. However, despite this, it stopped working a while back for reasons currently beyond me. The last few times I'd played it, it had serious controller issues; on Cybermorph, the T-Griffon wouldn't stop jetting forward and moving upward, while on Tempest 2K, I couldn't stop shooting. Not long after these incidents, my Jag failed entirely, and won't even power on. All I know is that these consoles are very sensitive to electrical mishaps (shorts, overloads, etc.), and that something to do with the controller inputs failed/shorted out, and this somehow eventually led to total failure. Yet if that is the case, wouldn't that mean that one of my controllers is defective and causes shorts? I've no soldering skills, and even less of a clue on how to find the replacement parts necessary for this system, so the chances of me fixing this are slim. For the meantime, I've purchased a new Jag system (I shouldn't have to explain how expensive they've become), so I want to ensure that this doesn't happen again. The main things I want to know are: *What caused this? *Is this (cheaply) fixable? *What can prevent this? Sorry about the long post, but as a long-time Atari fan, I just want to ensure the fun doesn't stop here. Please feel free to ask me anything you'd like to know.
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Hello, I'm looking to solve an issue I am having with my Atari 800. I bought an S-Video cable years ago off of eBay. It produces crisp video on my Atari 800, but the colors seem off. Additionally, bright colors seem to produce a ghosting effect. Please see my attached screenshot of River Raid. I'll also include a screenshot of Basic to show how characters look (A, M, N, and W in particular). Any thoughts on what the problem is? With an RCA cable, I don't get the ghosting effect, but the colors still seem off. I have an 800XL and the colors look fine with this cable. It's been years since I've used these systems, and I never looked closely at the video output until now. EDIT: In Basic, lowering the luminance of the text seems to help with the ghosting issue. Is there any way I can fix this at a hardware level? Thanks in advance!
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I have a '99 that I fitted with a F18a some months back. I've used it a good many hours without issue, and some of that was online through TIMXT with a WiFi232 -- so the keyboard has been working fine. I'd not used the TI in a few weeks and turned it on and noticed in the FlashROM '99 menu that certain keys were not working. Those keys are: HJKL; and SPACE Press normal, hard, etc. and they don't register -- TI BASIC, TIMXT, Forth, etc. But, I left the machine on for a while and I notice they keys now do work...but you need to press them just a little harder than "normal" for them to trigger, and when you do, they usually repeat a few times. One depress of 'K' results in 'KKKK' and such. So something is really strange here. I assume the hardware heating up is the change, but the repeat action baffles me. Can anyone make anything out of this? I see no other oddities with the system. I disconnected my PEB and that had no effect on the situation. Is this a specific IC failing? Or...? Thanks. bp -
I was given a PAL 7800 recently. The unit came as-is, untested with neither the power supply or controller, but 2 games including DKJr (One of my favorites), so I was pretty chuffed. I searched online for some info on a quick fix, and ended up hardwiring a SEGA MegaDrive 2 PSU. The console powers on and plays games! However, after a minute or two of play, the screen will crackle and the picture will disappear, only to glith back to normal seconds later. It repeats this process every few minutes. This issue has reoccurred every time I've tested the system. Any pointers folks?
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As some of you may know, I've been talking about posting a thread with some pics showing the picture quality issues I've been having with my 2600. It has a revision 12 motherboard and I've replaced the caps and voltage regulator. I've tried two different mod boards, both donated by members here. I want to make it clear, the mod boards aren't the issue, since they work extremely well in my 7800. The pictures you are about to see show the difference in picture quality between my modded 2600 and my unmodded Jr. While the picture from the Vader looks out of focus, it isn't. You can still clearly see the name plate on the bottom of the TV frame. I tried to take both pictures from the same distance and angle, but it's not perfect. I also had to shrink the pictures in order to upload them. So, here they are. I'd like to hear thoughts on what might be causing this issue, since I find it hard to use the Harmony Cart with my Vader because the menu is pretty hard to read. It's much worse in person than the pictures would lead you to believe. The first pic is from the Vader, the second is from the Jr.
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Ok, I don't need any help or anything. I just wanted to post about a weird issue I ran into today. I had a Joystick that wasn't working, so I decided to do some troubleshooting. The first thing I noticed when I took it apart, was that the wires were a different color than I expected. I wrote down the colors and where they went, then disconnected them so I could do some testing. I first checked the PCB with my multimeter. It checked out fine. So, I started checking the cable. I was able to determine that pins 2,3,4 and 6 were fine. I couldn't get anything on pins 1 and 8. I looked the cable over and could see no issues at all. There were no crimps, kinks, cuts or other visible damage. I did everything I could think of to try and get a reading on the non-working pins. After about 20 minutes I gave up and decided to cut the cable and test the wires and the cable (plug) end. I cut it about 5 inches from the connector and tested it. Everything worked. I then tested the rest of the cable and still no readings on 1 and 8. I threw away the cable, but kept the end, just in case I could find a use for it later on. I know the wires are thin, but I never expected to find two that were broken, without some type of damage on the outside of the cable. It just seemed odd to me. Anyway, that's all I wanted to say.
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OK, I didn't know if I should post this here or in Hardware, so I just put it here. I just got a 2600 Jr. today and it has a few issues. When you first turn it on, with any game or the Harmony cart, it takes probably 10 seconds before the picture shows up on the TV. When you put a Battlezone cart in and turn it on, it takes a few seconds, then you get the radar and some other random bits of the picture kind of jumping around the screen, then it will show up correctly, but with a very dim picture. In a couple of seconds, the picture brightens up and the colors are all good. If Demons to Diamonds is inserted, same wait time on start-up, but the color and brightness are good. Now, here's the big problem. When you hit reset to start Demons to Diamonds, it goes from color to Black and White. Unplugging the rca cable from the back of the console and then slowly putting it back, will allow you to see a split second of color before it goes B&W again. The same thing happens using the Demons and Diamonds .bin on the Harmony Encore. Also, With the Harmony, if you switch it off, while it's B&W and then switch it right back on, the Harmony menu is in B&W. Switching it off and on again, results in color. The Jr. isn't modded and an inspection of the board showed no bad solder joints or leaky caps. The Serial is A1781245617 The board is CO21503 Revision C On most games, it looks great, the colors and the picture are better than my AV modded Vader and 7800, other than the lack of a picture for a few seconds when you turn it on. Demons to Diamonds is the only game I've found so far that triggers the B&W issue, but I feel like that's a sign of something needing repair. So, does anyone have an answer as to what's wrong with it?
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I recently bought 3 Ataris (1 fat, 2 newer small ones) for $200, and there is a ton of static. Long story short, I've eliminated every possible thing I could between the solder points for the RF out on the Atari circuit board and the input on my TV, but it still yields static. I've used the RF tuner on the board, reseated everything that can be reseated, and used rubbing alcohol on most external contacts, yet I still get static. The Atari comes with the original power supply, and works flawlessly, just the static. I've tried it on 3 different TVs of 3 different types. (CRT, Projector, and LCD) with the same result on each. There doesn't appear to be any physical damage in any soldering or the board in general, other than some kind of minor liquid stains on the side. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Will
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Hello I am using an Atari STE 520 with a HxC device called the "USB floppy drive emulator" in revision D made by Lotharek. This is the version which lacks jumper switches, but lets you select the device ID in software. Using this device as a internal floppy drive works acceptable. However I run into problems when I try to use it as an external FDD with a cable made by this guide: http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26656 Sadly the Wiki entry which is mentioned in this guide is broken. All internal jumpers inside my STE are on their default (http://info-coach.fr/atari/hardware/interfaces.php) so pin 5 of the 14 pin connector would try to reach a FDD with ID 1 (rather than 0). The problem is that it won't work for me... The control LED of the HxC device for floppy access just lights up if I set the HxC to DS2 (all normal) or DS1 (with twisted cable). With those configuration I can for example open the floppy folder of "orbital destroyer". The internal FDD does sounds when doing so. If I then start the game the internal FDD continues to make sound, but the external one isn't used. The problem is the same if I cut the cable of (Atari STE-) pin 5 having it floating (Atari STE pin 6 still connected). However cutting 6 while having 5 still connected doesn't work. Does someone of you operate a Atari STE 520 with a Lotharek USB floppy drive emulator as external FDD? Is this possible, or is there a funky bug? Has anybody an idea what I am doing wrong? PS: Of Orbital Destroyer I have the actual 3.5 inch and I am going to put it to SPS tonight =) With kind regards Ben -
Hello. I am need of help! I have recently modded my 2600 to use AV and although I am getting color, the screen flickers like nuts... This mod required the removal of the resistor R209 and the transistor Q201/2 - I had to jump R209 to get color so I though maybe R209 was at fault - but tit was dumb luck that I did not throw R209 away so I tested it out, and the same thing happened so I know that R209 is not at fault. I decided that maybe the TIA is at fault so I bough a TIA Chip and it did not make a difference. Please help... Thanks! The Flashing on Combat: The Flashing on Pole Positn(-: My board (If that helps):
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So the Switch has 32 GB of internal flash storage, 6.1-7GB of which is set aside for the OS. Also, all saves from games will be saved to the system memory. So "internal memory" could quickly become scarce. Downloading a game like Zelda will take up half the system memory, and DragonQuest, at 32GB, won't even fit. I for one am pretty concerned about this becoming a real problem. Not from a downloading games standpoint, as those can be put on micro SD cards which while smallish now should eventually grow to the Switch's 2TB maximum. But to me it seems like a few system updates, a few saved games, and a few patches later, the internal memory could quickly fill up. Then what? Saved games aren't currently designed to go on the Micro SD card? I've had systems before that ran out of system memory, many times actually (Sega CD, Saturn, 3DO, Wii, Xbox, PS3) and it is never pretty. Shuffling files around, deleting stuff and trying to upgrade Memory carts or HDD's. Is this really a non-issue? Am I making more of this than it has the potential to become? Obviously others (this is one article of many) are thinking about this: https://www.technobuffalo.com/2017/01/20/nintendo-switchs-storage-problems-and-solutions-discussed-by-nintendo/ The 32GB for the Wii U seemed small at the time, but my mind was put to ease as soon as I hooked up my 2TB Seagate drive. I haven't even come close to filling it. That said, the Switch is portable and dragging around an external powered HD makes no sense. And yet Nintendo says they may be making this an option for the Switch. So then you have the 32GB internal storage, a 128GB micro SD, and a 4TB drive hooked up. What goes where exactly and how would that work? Seems convoluted. Anyway looking forward to your thoughts, ideas, and speculation on this issue. -
Hi all, I picked up a VGS from a carboot for £20. So I plugged it all in and I managed to get it tuned correctly etc. However when I turn it on, the colour comes through strange. ( I am running it through an old Game/TV converter that I've had for years, I aim to replace this for a coaxial converter). The main issue that I have is when I play the console with just one controller in, It works okay, However when plugging in the 2nd controller into the port it will fuzz and then cut out. Does anyone have any ideas?
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