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Found 40 results

  1. I just ran across this on Twitter, a new DIY ColecoVision RGB board by Citrus3000psi. Still in prototyping phase but will hopefully be coming out soon, after some more testing. This might be a nice alternative to the F18A for DIY'ers. Check out @citrus3000psis Tweet: https://twitter.com/citrus3000psi/status/953443909501444096?s=01 Now if someone would come out with a better Intellivision RGB board, I'd be on cloud 9!
  2. Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
  3. CatPix

    Kaisui TV close

    From the album: CatPixtures

  4. CatPix

    Kaisui TV

    From the album: CatPixtures

  5. So I completed the G7400 RGB addition mod as described here. It was surprisingly simple and took me about an hour to finish. I now need to build the 8 pin DIN to SCART cable. I am not familiar with building these, but I can't imagine it would be too difficult. So I hope someone here could give me some tips to help me complete it. Here is DIN Connector Pinout (according to the website at the link above) 1: RGB status (75 Ohm, 3 V) 2: Ground (0 V) 3: Blue (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 4: Composite Video (CVBS) (75 Ohm, 1 Vtt) 5: Red (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 6: Status CVBS (VCR) (10 kOhm, 12 V) 7: Sound 8: Green (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) Here are my questions: 1) Do I add a 10 kOhm resistor to scart pin 6 and 75 Ohm resistors to scart pins 1, 3, 4, 5, and 8? 2) Does the symbol on scart pin17 (see fig) mean that I just connect it to the metal connector (pin 21)? 3) Are there any other components that I should be adding to the cable? Any help or additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  6. Evening guys, I originally had a broadcast signal converter that I could plug all my 8 and 16 bit'ers into and fed nicely into the VGA port on a 25" Philips monitor but unfortunately DHL in my local country have made sure I'm never going to get it back after sending it for repair. The signal converter allowed lots of different resolutions and aspect ratios and was virtually limitless in the signals it would accept. Here in Ecuador there are a huge amount of 15-17" CRT's and LCD's and virtually nothing with S-Video inputs or that will accept happily the PAL composite video that my 800XL is knocking out. I have tried a $20 S-Video/Composite to VGA converter which gave me nice multicoloured blurred text on everything that I plugged into it (including a Raspberry Pi). So I'm looking to connect to VGA, especially as I still prefer the look of CRT's for my vintage machines. So, rather than going UAV now, I'm looking at getting a Sophia Board. I've tried reading through the Sophia threads but struggling to get a clear answer to some queries before I start hassling Simius with an order. I could do with hearing some experiences of other users findings. Firstly, the Sophia Rev.B is shown as RGB. Is this directly compatible with VGA or would it feed into one of the Arcade RGB to VGA GBS8200 converters found on Ebay? I ask about this board in particular because I'm getting one for an Amstrad CPC 6128 and could probably build a switch to shift between the tow machines. Secondly, regardless of this going VGA directly, or through an RGB converter, do I need to determine the resolution when I order the Sophia? Some of the monitors here are 1024 x768 and others 1280x1024. Are these the correct aspect ratios to be as similar as possible to old CRT TV's that the Atari's would have plugged into originally? Thirdly, if I end up having to order the DVI version, presumably there's a 1280x1024 option available, will I get black bars on the left and right of my full HD monitor to keep the aspect ratio or is it more likely to stretch to the whole screen or black borders on all sides with a tiny image in the middle? Lastly, is Simius based in Europe, or in the US, as I need to find out the best method of getting it to me without using couriers? USPS tracked service is ideal, but if it's coming from Europe then I'd need to get it shipped to the UK first to be forwarded by Royal Mail. Apologies for the long post and multiple questions. If you've any further advice or help to offer (unused Sophia Board??) please let me know, and thank you in advance.
  7. From the album: INTV

    My custom Sears unit that I restored & modded w/ RGB and composite AV, plus a custom Inty arcade controller that I built using a Neo Geo X as a base & Grips03's PCB kit. I used a magic eraser to clean up the cream colored plastic, the backend was repainted, a paint pen was used to touch up the raised lettering and then the whole console was clear coated. A lot of time and work put into it all, but everything came out great!

    © TJW 2019

  8. From the album: INTV

    The Intellivision RGB mod, all buttoned up in a Sears SVA and looking mighty fine on my 43" Vizio D series HDTV, in glorious 1080p.

    © TJW 2019

  9. From the album: INTV

    New daughter board used for Inty RGB mod - made wiring/soldering mini DIN connector much easier.

    © TJW 2019

  10. From the album: INTV

    Inty RGB board soldered up

    © TJW 2019

  11. SiLic0ne t0aD

    Inty RGB

    From the album: INTV

    Intellivision RGB mod completed. Testing before reassembly. Using cheap Chinese converter/scaler since timing is incompatible with OSSC.

    © TJW 2019

  12. So for my study in electrical engineering I had to design a single pcb, but I actually ended up designing multiple. The first one was an RGB board for the Colecovision that converted the analog video signals into RGB. With the schematic I built it from being quite sketchy, I'll only share it if it delivers any decent results. The second PCB is one I'm a little more confident with. There used to be a board like it called the Zoe (kinda wanna call it the Joey), but it was apparently a tough one to get. I also didn't like the idea of soldering 10 wires to the PCB. My idea is to imitate what Tim Worthington has been doing with the NESRGB and 2600RGB boards, where the modboard sits in the socket of the IC it takes the signals from while still leaving the IC functioning the same. This method is more work, especially if the IC isn't socketed to begin with, but leaves a much more tidy result. I also went with SMD components over through-hole as this allows for a smaller PCB, although it may scare the hobbyist away from it. The three IC's will be tough, but the other components should be easily doable with a soldering iron. The board also houses an additional pin header to do a composite video mod, which will require soldering a single cable to the Intellivision's board. Considering this is just a 3 bit DAC (times 3) I also tried making it with Opamps, but wasn't succesful in simulating anything functional. I didn't want to include a negative voltage on the board to use different opamps, and couldnt get anything working with single supply opamps. I'm not an electrical engineer quite yet, so my attempts only take me so far.
  13. CatPix

    SMS II RGB arrière

    From the album: CatPixtures

  14. CatPix

    SMS II RGB Adapteur

    From the album: CatPixtures

  15. From the album: SCART-Genie

    SCART-Genie v1.0 designed by Chris Schneider (me). Allows for easy connect of Geneve 9640 to a SCART enabled monitor. Sync Cleaner enabled circuit Internally powered Internal/External speaker selection

    © Copyright 2018 Chris Schneider

  16. Hi! We just talked about the 7800, compatibility and models on a German forum. When I asked about the French RGB model a friend told me he has one, and while it has the scart output, the signal is no picture is no better than when you get your normal 7800 modded for cinch. So basically, the standard AV signal output through an RGB plug in the end. Does anyone have experience with this? Maybe his unit is only defective. I am a sucker for RGB, in the last 15 years all my consoles had at least RGB. The ones that do not (N64, Atari 2600, NES) I barely turn on. True RGB should be remarkably better than normal AV. No color bleeding, vibrant and calm colors...
  17. NOTE: THIS GUIDE IS NOT YET COMPLETE IN THIS ONE POST! THERE IS PLENTY MORE TO KNOW AND I'M JUST GETTING STARTED! CHECK BACK IN LATER POSTS FOR MORE INFO! Hello AtariaAge! This is a guide I've wanted to put together for a while about getting the best possible image (and audio!) quality from all of your retro consoles, including Nintendo, Atari, Sega, Sony, Microsoft, and even other consoles like the Colecovision, TG-16/PCE, Neo Geo, and Intellivision! IMHO one of the coolest things about collecting games today is the fact that we can experience them better now than we did years ago with the new technology available to consumers via the magic of the internet. If you've ever wanted to make your games look amazing on real hardware, this is the guide for you! Check out this comparison! It is truly stunning to see. For starters, you need to understand the issue non-HD consoles present: to plug into the largest amount of standard consumer televisions, all consoles from the Atari 2600 all the way until the Wii were packaged with either a Coaxial RF (Radio Frequency) cable or composite RCA cables. These pack all of the audio and video into one and three cables respectively. The video is condensed and is ruined before it even reaches your TV. However, with the power of better cables many systems can output superior quality right out of the box! Take the SNES (non-mini) for example. It can output a superior Video signal! Check out this comparison! It is even more stunning in person! However, the SNES can still do even better! RGB is a video signal that carries the video and audio over even more pins than S Video, separating the red, green, and blue parts of the image. Most RGB signals are carried over SCART cables, which were popular in Europe but never available in the USA: Here it is! The glory of RGB! However, you may have already noticed an issue here: even if your console does output a superior signal like S Video, RGB, Component, or VGA, how do you display it? Like I said no American TVs had SCART inputs ever. Also, what about systems that don't output anything anything above RF, let alone RGB, like the Atari 2600 and ColecoVision? Don't worry, there's much more to come very soon! This is just a teaser post for anyone who hasn't been lucky enough to see the glory of RGB and retro consoles looking their best.
  18. Up for sale are the citrus3000psi RGB boards for the Colecovision/ADAM. These boards are designed to be soldered to the bottom of the VDP and provide RGBS to an output connector of your choice. To properly calibrate these boards, 3 onboard POTs are used to adjust each color individually. Please note that to properly calibrate the board, you MUST use an oscilloscope. If you do not calibrate with an oscilloscope and choose to adjust by eye, please note that any compatibility issues, damage, or world ending results via the summoning of Cthulu are solely your responsibility. Each kit is sold as a DIY and fully assembled/tested before shipping. If you receive a board and have issues, please contact me. If the issues are found to be related to misuse or improper installation, you are on your own. If there appears to be a defect in manufacturing, I will work with you towards an amicable resolution. No output connectors are provided, except with install service. Output connectors can be whatever you wish but the cables themselves must be pass-through, ie no capacitors or resistors installed. If you need assistance with purchasing cables or output connectors please reach out and I can answer your questions. Each board is $30 shipped in the Continental US (CONUS). If you do not feel confident with the installation or would prefer to have it installed for you, I will be providing install services with oscilloscope calibration of the board. Cost of this service is $80 including the board, but not including return shipping.
  19. CatPix

    Donkey Kong RVB

    From the album: CatPixtures

    Colecovision display is fine
  20. CatPix

    SMS II RGB etiquette

    From the album: CatPixtures

  21. CatPix

    SMS II RGB boite

    From the album: CatPixtures

  22. From the album: SCART-Genie

    SCART-Genie v1.0 designed by Chris Schneider (me). Allows for easy connect of Geneve 9640 to a SCART enabled monitor. Sync Cleaner enabled circuit Internally powered Internal/External speaker selection

    © Copyright 2018 Chris Schneider

  23. so i have at long last with a lot of work got the French RGB colecovision board i have in my possession working once again. my question is does anyone know a fill pinout for the motherboard RGB connector. i have looked on http://www.colecovision.dk/technical.htm i have also looked on http://www.nightfallcrew.com/14/06/2009/cbs-colecovision-secam-rgb-hackcbs-colecovision-secam-rgb-hack/ they are both incorrect, and so my first attempt produced a pretty pants cable that was not fit to be used (wrong colours etc) I have finally got a rgb picture out of it using a combination of them both and my own judgement but the other pins in the connector provide voltage when measured against the board ground that is not documented on any site. do we know what the other pins do. also what are i would like to just put this out there for comments, the audio from the RGB connector is incredibly weak, i was thinking of using a transistor or maybe two paired together to increase the power of this so you don't have to have the tv on max to hear anything (hopefully will result in less interference buzz from whatever is causing that! i will post a completed pin out later that i know that is as good as i can get it. but the other pins i will need a bit of help maybe with someone with a proper French RGB cable any info greatly appreciated
  24. Welll, as I might've previously threatened, I took a few days to make an FPGA Channel F! (Channel FPGA if you will). After the Studio 2 FPGA I did earlier, I thought it'd be fun to try to simulate another underdog console. It took me about 4 days to get this one done, start to finish. Complete ground up everything. F8 CPU, 3853 SRAM interface, and video buffer. I cheated a little on the video buffer. The original buffer isn't terribly NTSC standards compliant. It uses 224 clocks per scanline instead of 228, and there's 264 scanlines instead of 262. Old 1970's TVs were fine with this, but capture cards and modern TVs probably don't take too kindly to that. I ended up with a 228 clock per scanline and 262 scanline frame to make it "NES like", which is good enough for most modern stuff. The audio circuitry was a direct clone, however, so pitch should be accurate. All games run perfectly as far as I can tell, and audio sounds like the various youtube videos I could find. This implemention runs on my standard FPGA board I made, along with all the other systems. Bottom of the post has dirty technical details for those that swing that way. Enough of that, on with the pictures! A good start- the G? selection screen. Built in game, hockey quadradooooooooooodle Alien Invaders Chess, requires extra RAM to function Maze (also needs extra ram, sitting on some IO ports. yep, got that) Pac-man homebrew. (title screen) In game. This game appears to be for a PAL Channel F maybe- the top and bottom get cut off a bit, but the game plays just fine. Technical details: Resource usage by entity: Cyclone EP3C25 FPGA F8 CPU: 723 LEs F3853 SRAM interface: 334 LEs framebuffer: 121 LEs generic SDRAM: 243 LEs This is approximately 6% of the FPGA's resources. (LE = logic element, the "currency" of FPGAs. my chip has 24624 LEs total) The F8 CPU was real "interesting" to simulate. I suspect the designers were under the influence when coming up with that particular bus state / 8 bit bus architecture. There's only a single level hardware stack for calls, no subtracts, jumps and calls corrupt the accumulator (loads PCH of new address into it for temp storage), and the slowness. dreadful slowness. The Channel F's frame buffer is slooow too. You can only write 1 new pixel every scanline, so a maximum of around 16Kpixels/second. This is why clearing the screen or updating too many things is dreadfully slow. Audio was straight forward but had a few wrinkles. If the sound is left on, it will go silent on its own after about 35ms. I noticed in some emulators the sound would continue long past the point it should've been silent because they did not implement this timeout. (It's done on the original hardware using a capacitor). I had a bunch of issues figuring out how the background select bits worked, and the 2102 SRAM on the Maze cart was connected. Some code disassembly helped with that. Overall, this system was extremely easy to simulate. The F8, while weird, ended up being pretty painless to implement and debug. Time taken was as follows: Tuseday - implement F8 CPU verilog, generate the bus state table. Wednesday - implement F3853 SRAM interface doodad (generates the address bus, and controls IO ports). Do some basic CPU testing Thursday - implement frame buffer. Do more CPU testing and debugging. CPU mostly debugged at this point Friday - no work Saturday - Fix final F8 bug (BR7 opcode). Implement XDC instruction- not listed on the datasheet. Demo cart 2 needs it. Add 2102 SRAM doodad. So about four days of work. I used signaltap (a built in "logic analyzer" in the Quartus 2 dev software) extensively to debug the system. Here's what that looks like for the curious. This is showing the various signals in the project. This is what happens at reset. The "Dbus" signal is the F8's data bus and the values on it, RST is reset, and ROMC is the 5 bit ROM control bus. "write" is the F8 write signal. These are a replica of the real chip's pin states. The capture starts when reset goes low to start operation (Yes my signals are all positive polarity even though the real chip's signals might not have been. standardization was used to keep things consistent).
  25. A composite modded Intellivision (PAL) console looks rough on old televisions let alone modern televisions but is the only option. I'd like to get a fully working French (Peritan) model RGB Intellision console, as long as it is a sensible/reasonable price. I don't care about the condition of the case at it will go into my Project Unity system, if it has the RGB cable that would be great but if not, let me know the pinout for RGB on the console and I can take it from there. I do need the console to be fully working of course. I'm in Hampshire, UK.
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