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RGB Blaster + Humble Bazooka shell $110 shipped to U.S. and Canada. The RGB Blaster plugs into an NES or Famicom cart slot and outputs high quality RGB video. It is a Famicom cart, so an adapter is required for NES consoles and a front loader would require modifying the console shell or leaving the top off for the RGB cable. These are pretty much unusable without a Humble Bazooka shell, which is included. It is not compatible with all PPUs and not at all with clones. Hardware mods may also affect the compatibility of an RGB Blaster. You can learn more about it here: https://krikzz.com/our-products/cartridges/rgb-blaster.html Here is footage recorded from the RGB Blaster for sale:
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My RGB SCART cable for my PS1 just arrived earlier today. I won't deny, the difference in clarity and overall quality of colors is immense. I think it is pretty understandable for us retro gamers to naturally hunt for the highest quality video output we can, or perhaps aim for an experience that accurately recaptures our childhoods. However, there is one key element that advocates for higher quality video cables almost never mention: dithering. Basically, it's that checkerboard-y pattern you see in the vast majority of PS1 games. If it's a 3D game, it will almost certainly have it; especially if the game in question has a darker color palette. The reason why the developers added dithering was to fake additional color depth that simply wasn't possible with the hardware otherwise. You know how certain games such as DOOM on PC have a very visible dark color gradient the farther the distance is from the player? That's called color banding. It's when the gradient of colors isn't smooth, and you can clearly see the color go from brighter to darker, and vice versa. A smooth gradient doesn't exhibit this, and it's one of the biggest advantages when working with a higher color depth. Again, this simply wasn't possible on the PlayStation's hardware. Some of you may be thinking "but wait a second, didn't the PS1 support 24-bit color?" and you'd be absolutely correct. A 24-bit color depth allows for 16.7 million possible different colors. However, it wasn't feasible for the hardware to calculate such a high color depth for fast 3D graphics. In reality, most games on the PS1 were actually 15-bit color in gameplay (32768 possible different colors), and 24-bit in still images (such as title screens). Sony was very aware of this technical limitation, so they included dithering as an option on the hardware to combat this — it was built-in. In turn, many developers used this to combat the otherwise extremely visible color banding that would be present. And this is where composite video comes in. Due to its nature, composite video will naturally blur two adjacent colors together. What this means is that the dithering pattern is far, far less noticeable when using a composite video cable. ESPECIALLY when paired with even the most basic consumer CRT. What you see instead is a very smooth gradient that will fool the human eye into thinking it is seeing more colors than it actually is. It's extremely clever. Of course, this has other affects as well. We all know that composite video is by no means known for it's clarity. As such, 2D elements tend to suffer, such as text. But on a CRT, it has the potential to look superb. While developers were often working with Sony PVM/BVM monitors that supported RGB, unless you lived in Europe, almost no one had access to RGB video. Sony and the developers knew this, so they took advantage of the limitations of composite video for the aforementioned reasons. It's a classic tale of genius engineers making the most out of limited hardware. To summarize: Composite video does a great job at hiding the arguably ugly dithering pattern present in almost every PS1 game It's far more accessible and easy to get a hold of for a reasonable price Many consumer CRTs support composite, making it easy to get into if you're just starting to get into retro gaming It's convenient As for me, would I switch back to composite now that I have an RGB cable? Well.... -
I wanted to create a cable to connect my Amigas to my Atari SC1224 color monitor. I found a few forum posts on the issue: http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=80003 http://www.atari-forum.com/viewtopic.php?t=30991 http://atariage.com/forums/topic/189852-how-to-find-a-good-amiga-500/ But nothing with the actual schematic. It should be straightforward, but the poster in the English Amiga Board post stated he was having problems, and someone suggested taping the CSYNC line instead. Anyway, I made a cable with a simple RGBHV and GND connection from the Amiga to the SC1224 and it works beautifully. I added audio too by tying left and right audio together and feeding them to pin 1 of the Atari monitor. Here is the schematic: And here are some results: I figured I would add this here for anyone else wondering if there is some weird magic to connecting an SC1224 to an Amiga. There isn't. The only surprise was that the original Amiga RGB video cable I tried to use as a donor does not carry HSYNC and VSYNC at all. I has to sacrifice an Amigakit RGB to SCART cable in the end too. So far at least though it works great and looks beautiful. Graham
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In general since pretty much none of my TVs have component, using RGB through my Retrotink works well.
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I always wondered about the possibility of creating a DIY mod to get RGB video out of the A8. And because it already has separate chroma and luma outputs from the GTIA, it would seem that fundamentally what would be needed is a way to decode the chroma signal into a 3-bit digital output that could address 3 analog switches going to the RGB inputs of a monitor. Then do the usual resistor DAC on the luma outputs and send the resultant analog luminance signal into the common on all 3 analog switches. Have I over simplified this? I think the biggest obstacle is decoding the chroma into a digital 3-bit output. How best to do this? Here's a highly simplified Block Diagram of what I believe are the essential aspects. The sync separator might not be required if the monitor will accept CSYNC. There are some fairly inexpensive RGB to HDMI converters on the market now days that actually do a decent job of conversion for us people that live in non-RGB monitor land, and there are ways to make CRT monitors accept RGB input.
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Hi guys, I just bought two of the Sophia 2 devices that I want to install on my Atari 800XL and Atari 5200. I have a RetroTINK 5X but I need some help on finding a good way to connect my Sophia 2 via DVI to my RetroTINK 5X that would then go to my TV or HDMI monitor. The reason I bought a Sophia 2 device is because I want the best picture to come out of these Atari systems. So can someone please help me out?
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I'm thinking of firing up one of my old Atari computers but don't have an old monitor or TV. Are there converters out there that will convert the Atari video output to VGA? HDMI would be OK I guess, but VGA suits what I have better right now. As I recall, the Atari 800 had both composite video and RGB available. Plus a modulator to convert the composite video to TV channel 2. BTW, I have seen some boards on eBay and AliExpress that look promising, but the product descriptions are hard to follow. I'd like to be reasonably sure the gadget has a chance of working before I buy it. Regards, Nick "the SIO2PC guy"
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I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
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VBXE owners: do any of you have positive experiences with 15KHz RGB to HDMI converters, and if so, which models are recommended? I have a client who wants good video output over HDMI but since Sophia 2 is not available and he's interested in VBXE's feature set, he wants to go with VBXE. I can't really advise since I use SCART-enabled TVs and the only upscaler I own is a GBS-8200, which does a decent job of converting 15KHz RGB to VGA.
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More pics are in this Imgur post: https://imgur.com/gallery/j7OisBw I have a Triple Bypass modded MegaDrive VA4 Model 1. Everything works except the colour blue is missing, i did not have this problem before the recap/reflow. It has a yellow tint. I initially suspected that the RGB pins aren’t soldered on properly on the VDP Chip (315 5313A). I did break the RGB pins afterall. But still managed to solder the wire onto it by further exposing the broken legs with my craft knife. I used plenty of solder, and flux, there is no bridging and it’s not loose at all. I test the system with each pin soldered on individually. Red works (Reminds me of the Virtual Boy), Green works but not Blue. Instead i get a black screen with Blue when i test separately, even though it’s soldered on solid. Other mods include the Region Free chips, DFO accurate 60hz mod both work. The clicky reset button works, replaced the 7805 voltage regulators, i get sound. I’ve also recapped it prior to this problem using the Console5 kit. Could it be the caps? All are installed correctly. Many in the right place. Ps I did make a mistake at first by accidentally soldering in a 7812 which ended up shutting off the system and the VDP chip did get hot. I then quickly shut off the system and desoldered that 7812 that was misplaced in the 7805 packet and soldered in a 7805 and it powered on again. Voltages measured using my Astro Ai Multimeter from the VDP to GND. I put Sonic 3 in and took the game out at the white Sega Logo before measuring it. Here are the results. Red= 3.135v Green=3.255v Blue=3.438v I followed this guide for the Triple Bypass mod, more pics from the guide are below: https://www.retrorgb.com/genesis1rgbbypass.html https://console5.com/techwiki/images/f/fb/CXA1145PM.pdf There is also this guide, did not follow this since i have the Triple Bypass: https://videogameperfection.com/2018/08/28/megadrive-bypass-installation/ Is the console/VDP at fault or is it the mod such as the Triple Bypass board? And can this be fixed?
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Hey All. I've been working with a well known custom PCB maker from Sudomod (Minty Pi and Gameboy Zero stuff) named Helder Silva on developing my idea of an adapter that takes the Jag's AV port and converts it to the more common Nintendo Multiout. I chose the Multiout because it carries all the audio video signals needed for composite, s-video, and even RGB all in one port. I wanted to share some footage I took last night of me playing some Jag games with an HD Retrovision component cable upscaled through an OSSC using the final version of the adapter. I recorded this footage using a $20 capture device from Amazon so it's not the highest quality and it introduced lag, which you can see me struggle with in Alien vs Predator and Cybermorph but it get's the job done! What the JAG2SNES does: Converts the Jag's AV port to the more common Multiout port. Allows you to use SNES/N64/GameCube: Composite, S-Video, RGB Scart, and HD Retrovision (what I use) cables with your Jag. What this JAG2SNES doesn't do: Upscale. You'll need a scan converter like the OSSC, Framemeister, or GBS for that. If all goes well, it should go on sale sometime today for $25 USD (plus shipping) over at Helder's website and they'll be ready to ship immediately, no waiting list and no lead time to build. They are built. I will post to the buy, sell, trade forums once it's live.
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Hello all Signed up here to ask for help regarding RGB output for G7000 / G7400. In short, I need to record a bunch of videos of various Videopac games for my project 8bitmemoirs.com For this reason, one of my mates have modded my G7000 to have RGB output, but it's displaying wrong colours. I found a video on YouTube demonstrating the exact same problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct6Wv3eyPzM#t=2m20s Notice the red and blue is way too dark. That's not how the colours are supposed to look in that game ("Race"). So for a short while I gave up on RGB and asked my mate to instead put in a composite mod, which he did, and it works but the picture is just as awful as an RF signal. Therefor I'm back to hunting a good RGB solution signal now. So I have 3 questions for you all: 1) Does anyone know why the colours are too dark with an RGB mod for G7000? Is there anything we can do about it? 2) Is the RGB output better on the G7400? And is it easy to add an RGB mod to the G7400 that doesn't come with one pre-installed? 3) Are there anyone here who has a spare G7400 with RGB output they'd be interesting in selling? Some pictures demonstrating my problem: http://www.amibay.com/showthread.php?88818-Help-requested-for-RGB-output-for-Philips-G7000-Videopac Thanks!
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Hey everyone! As you have heard me talk about on the show a number of times, my RGB light-sixer has been down for the count for a few months now. I've done all I can with the knowledge and skills I have, which consist of poor soldering skills that didn't help anything. Thankfully @Nathan Strum has graciously offered his help to see if he's able to diagnose the issue and get it up and running again! In the mean time @Albert has sent me his S-Video modded four switch that we used for the first time on the most recent show, which was a HUGE step up in quality of the composite Atari Jr we've been using for a while now. Thank you so much Al!! Here's the VCS all packed up nicely and ready to be shipped to Nathan, it was sent on May 22 and just arrived to Nathan today, hooray! I'll let Nathan take over from here on the incredible saga of the RGB Light-Sixer repair. Thank you so much Nathan!! - James
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I'm fairly new to the ST, but I picked up 3 STs, in a lot, recently. I got a 520stfm, a 520stm, and a 520st. I didn't get any monitors, or video cables, with them, though. Given that situation, the first thing that I did was to make up a DIN-13 to composite video + audio cable. The quality of output I got from that was acceptable (but not great) at low res, and terrible at medium res. Looking to improve my output, I bought a an NEW v2.0 Atari ST DIN13 to VGA Adaptor Low-Medium/High Switchable with Audio Out and, after reading that my Extron RGB-HDMI 300a was capable of going beyond the spec of 30 kHz, I tried it out. I think that the results speak for themselves. You can see some jailbars, particularly in high res, but if I take a bit of time to adjust the phase, those should go away. These images are the defaults, with zero tuning. - Alex
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I'm looking for someone in the US who can install the RGB Tim worthington mod with component output in my light 4 switch Atari 2600 system.
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Hello I had myself a Retrotink SCART to ypbpr converter, and it worked fine. However some capture cards were having trouble with 240p YCbCr. I traded it for a Retro Tink SCART to VGA line doubler. It'll be in the mail by next week. I noticed the PlayStation 2 and GameCube have problems with interlaced video. Luckily of all the games tested, only 19 out of like 300+ games for the Xbox Prime were "interlaced only.". That's how I found out that my VGA CRT monitor doesn't do interlaced video first of all I should I assume that the Hauppauge Rocket, when just used as a video converter, only converts the physical form of the video from composite, S-Video, and component, to HDMI, but the display mode and resolution remain the same? Second does the Hauppauge Rocket do 240p via S-Video which I heard is a possibility of S-Video? And does the rocket have problems with 240p via 3 RCA ypbpr? Third. If I play my Master System, Sega Tower of Power, Sega Saturn Sega Dreamcast and Super NES model 1, which could all accept scarred without modding the system, does either the Retrotink device convert any interlaced video into progressive or is there something in the internal chips of those systems and assume that if SCART is being used that progressive video will always be outputted. In other words if a game is in interlaced mode for any of those systems, will it not work on the Retrotink? Now question about the GameCube Wii and Wii U. If the Wii U is in 720p will we games that are normally in 480i get "progressivized" (de-interlaced). If I play GameCube games on the Wii, will the Wii deinterlace all GameCube games or only run ones with a native progressive mode? I know about the operating system being in progressive mode on the Xbox Prime just press both analog sticks in and triggers down and hold it down like a second or two to switch between progressive and interlaced. I also noticed weird artifacts on my PlayStation 3D TV that when Legend of Zelda Wind Waker was in 480p, the PlayStation 3 TV had gobbledygook in places that were normally black picture, like a transparency code or something. just wondering if there's going to be any weird behaviors dealing with a VGA CRT monitor that doesn't have an interlace mode By the way, when converting HDMI to VGA, my CRT beat my PlayStation 3D TV by one frame. Guess which one I'm playing my modern games on? -
I just ran across this on Twitter, a new DIY ColecoVision RGB board by Citrus3000psi. Still in prototyping phase but will hopefully be coming out soon, after some more testing. This might be a nice alternative to the F18A for DIY'ers. Check out @citrus3000psis Tweet: https://twitter.com/citrus3000psi/status/953443909501444096?s=01 Now if someone would come out with a better Intellivision RGB board, I'd be on cloud 9!
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I'm running into an odd problem that I hope someone else has seen before - I have a Sony HB-F1XDmk2 MSX2 that I'm trying to connect via RGB cable to an Extron DSC301 HD (via the 15pin D-sub input). I've done a bit of searching and believe I have the pinouts correct on both the MSX* and Extron ends. I've tested and re-tested continuity through the lines. All that said, I just can't seem to get a full picture going - I'm getting two of the three RGB colors and only the text mode (I think); the MSX boot logo screen doesn't appear, game screens don't appear. The picture is nice and crisp, there's no rolling/scrolling that I've seen mentioned from other forum posts. Also, the unit's A/V outputs work normally. The odd thing on the 2 out of 3 colors - I can swap the color lines and I'll get the blend of whatever 2 colors I hook up on the first two lines for the text, so it seems the R,G, and B are outputting from the MSX but for some reason the extron is not using/seeing/processing all three colors. I've used this d-sub input on the extron with my Apple IIgs and color/sync works. *For the 8pin DIN, I'm using the Type A pin out so 6,7,8 pins are RGB and 4,5 are the two sync lines. I also have pin 1 ground hooked up. I'm stumped - is it that I need to use a different combo of pin 3, 4, or 5 for Horizontal/Vertical Sync or is the Extron just not compatible with the MSX output? I know on paper the extron doesn't support 15kHz, but it does and works beautifully with my Apple IIgs. Most of the posts I find on this are talking about SCART connectors/wiring but I really want to make the 8 pin din to 15 pin D-Sub work if possible. Any help appreciated!
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So I completed the G7400 RGB addition mod as described here. It was surprisingly simple and took me about an hour to finish. I now need to build the 8 pin DIN to SCART cable. I am not familiar with building these, but I can't imagine it would be too difficult. So I hope someone here could give me some tips to help me complete it. Here is DIN Connector Pinout (according to the website at the link above) 1: RGB status (75 Ohm, 3 V) 2: Ground (0 V) 3: Blue (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 4: Composite Video (CVBS) (75 Ohm, 1 Vtt) 5: Red (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) 6: Status CVBS (VCR) (10 kOhm, 12 V) 7: Sound 8: Green (75 Ohm, 0.7 Vtt) Here are my questions: 1) Do I add a 10 kOhm resistor to scart pin 6 and 75 Ohm resistors to scart pins 1, 3, 4, 5, and 8? 2) Does the symbol on scart pin17 (see fig) mean that I just connect it to the metal connector (pin 21)? 3) Are there any other components that I should be adding to the cable? Any help or additional info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Im looking for advice on this layout. Should I connect the OSSC directly to the TV or will signal quality be fine through an HDMI switch? Any glaring missteps with my current plan? N64 seems like a writeoff for now in PAL until I consider modding. Will PS2, Xbox and Wii be best served in an RGB OSSC setup or should I consider the HDMI solutions on the market ?
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Welll, as I might've previously threatened, I took a few days to make an FPGA Channel F! (Channel FPGA if you will). After the Studio 2 FPGA I did earlier, I thought it'd be fun to try to simulate another underdog console. It took me about 4 days to get this one done, start to finish. Complete ground up everything. F8 CPU, 3853 SRAM interface, and video buffer. I cheated a little on the video buffer. The original buffer isn't terribly NTSC standards compliant. It uses 224 clocks per scanline instead of 228, and there's 264 scanlines instead of 262. Old 1970's TVs were fine with this, but capture cards and modern TVs probably don't take too kindly to that. I ended up with a 228 clock per scanline and 262 scanline frame to make it "NES like", which is good enough for most modern stuff. The audio circuitry was a direct clone, however, so pitch should be accurate. All games run perfectly as far as I can tell, and audio sounds like the various youtube videos I could find. This implemention runs on my standard FPGA board I made, along with all the other systems. Bottom of the post has dirty technical details for those that swing that way. Enough of that, on with the pictures! A good start- the G? selection screen. Built in game, hockey quadradooooooooooodle Alien Invaders Chess, requires extra RAM to function Maze (also needs extra ram, sitting on some IO ports. yep, got that) Pac-man homebrew. (title screen) In game. This game appears to be for a PAL Channel F maybe- the top and bottom get cut off a bit, but the game plays just fine. Technical details: Resource usage by entity: Cyclone EP3C25 FPGA F8 CPU: 723 LEs F3853 SRAM interface: 334 LEs framebuffer: 121 LEs generic SDRAM: 243 LEs This is approximately 6% of the FPGA's resources. (LE = logic element, the "currency" of FPGAs. my chip has 24624 LEs total) The F8 CPU was real "interesting" to simulate. I suspect the designers were under the influence when coming up with that particular bus state / 8 bit bus architecture. There's only a single level hardware stack for calls, no subtracts, jumps and calls corrupt the accumulator (loads PCH of new address into it for temp storage), and the slowness. dreadful slowness. The Channel F's frame buffer is slooow too. You can only write 1 new pixel every scanline, so a maximum of around 16Kpixels/second. This is why clearing the screen or updating too many things is dreadfully slow. Audio was straight forward but had a few wrinkles. If the sound is left on, it will go silent on its own after about 35ms. I noticed in some emulators the sound would continue long past the point it should've been silent because they did not implement this timeout. (It's done on the original hardware using a capacitor). I had a bunch of issues figuring out how the background select bits worked, and the 2102 SRAM on the Maze cart was connected. Some code disassembly helped with that. Overall, this system was extremely easy to simulate. The F8, while weird, ended up being pretty painless to implement and debug. Time taken was as follows: Tuseday - implement F8 CPU verilog, generate the bus state table. Wednesday - implement F3853 SRAM interface doodad (generates the address bus, and controls IO ports). Do some basic CPU testing Thursday - implement frame buffer. Do more CPU testing and debugging. CPU mostly debugged at this point Friday - no work Saturday - Fix final F8 bug (BR7 opcode). Implement XDC instruction- not listed on the datasheet. Demo cart 2 needs it. Add 2102 SRAM doodad. So about four days of work. I used signaltap (a built in "logic analyzer" in the Quartus 2 dev software) extensively to debug the system. Here's what that looks like for the curious. This is showing the various signals in the project. This is what happens at reset. The "Dbus" signal is the F8's data bus and the values on it, RST is reset, and ROMC is the 5 bit ROM control bus. "write" is the F8 write signal. These are a replica of the real chip's pin states. The capture starts when reset goes low to start operation (Yes my signals are all positive polarity even though the real chip's signals might not have been. standardization was used to keep things consistent).- 17 replies
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Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
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From the album: CatPixtures
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From the album: CatPixtures
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Evening guys, I originally had a broadcast signal converter that I could plug all my 8 and 16 bit'ers into and fed nicely into the VGA port on a 25" Philips monitor but unfortunately DHL in my local country have made sure I'm never going to get it back after sending it for repair. The signal converter allowed lots of different resolutions and aspect ratios and was virtually limitless in the signals it would accept. Here in Ecuador there are a huge amount of 15-17" CRT's and LCD's and virtually nothing with S-Video inputs or that will accept happily the PAL composite video that my 800XL is knocking out. I have tried a $20 S-Video/Composite to VGA converter which gave me nice multicoloured blurred text on everything that I plugged into it (including a Raspberry Pi). So I'm looking to connect to VGA, especially as I still prefer the look of CRT's for my vintage machines. So, rather than going UAV now, I'm looking at getting a Sophia Board. I've tried reading through the Sophia threads but struggling to get a clear answer to some queries before I start hassling Simius with an order. I could do with hearing some experiences of other users findings. Firstly, the Sophia Rev.B is shown as RGB. Is this directly compatible with VGA or would it feed into one of the Arcade RGB to VGA GBS8200 converters found on Ebay? I ask about this board in particular because I'm getting one for an Amstrad CPC 6128 and could probably build a switch to shift between the tow machines. Secondly, regardless of this going VGA directly, or through an RGB converter, do I need to determine the resolution when I order the Sophia? Some of the monitors here are 1024 x768 and others 1280x1024. Are these the correct aspect ratios to be as similar as possible to old CRT TV's that the Atari's would have plugged into originally? Thirdly, if I end up having to order the DVI version, presumably there's a 1280x1024 option available, will I get black bars on the left and right of my full HD monitor to keep the aspect ratio or is it more likely to stretch to the whole screen or black borders on all sides with a tiny image in the middle? Lastly, is Simius based in Europe, or in the US, as I need to find out the best method of getting it to me without using couriers? USPS tracked service is ideal, but if it's coming from Europe then I'd need to get it shipped to the UK first to be forwarded by Royal Mail. Apologies for the long post and multiple questions. If you've any further advice or help to offer (unused Sophia Board??) please let me know, and thank you in advance.
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