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Found 34 results

  1. I have five non-functional Geneve 9640 cards. For some time I've considered what to do with them. I am not interested in investing my time to fix them and have decided to offer them to the community. I obtained the cards during the late 1990s when I temporarily assumed Myarc responsibility from Cecure Electronics. The cards came from Myarc and were never sold due to their inoperable condition. Rest assured these cards are not customer cards. You can read about the repair efforts in Micropendium articles from the period. The cost per card is $50.00USD + shipping. This covers my investment. If you buy a card, you will need to source any missing parts yourself. Schematics are available on WHT. The cards will come with whatever chips are currently installed, untested with no warranty or guarantee of any kind. Last but not least, Richard and I have discussed the future disposition of these cards. We will not accept them for repair. This is primarily an opportunity for those of you who want to own a card that you can learn from and/or repair yourself.
  2. Current status (04-June-2018): Pre-order stage. Reply to post with quantity you're seriously interested in buying. Pre-order stage open at least until production run has started. Current pre-order count: 203. Received the 5 prototypes. Installed one. Works great, except need to contact supplier to see if they can get the contrast in the correct range. Screenshot here. Inside of Microvision shown here. Initial Post (10-Feb-2018): As many of you are aware, the Microvision by Milton Bradley is notorious for something people have called "screen rot", where the LCD screen becomes dark and unusable. Unfortunately, this effect is all too common. A fix for these would hopefully bring back to life these interesting and (I think) fun handheld systems. It took a few months or so, but I was finally able to get a couple of quotes for replacement LCD screens for the Microvision (unfortunately, minimum order quantities for small LCDs are typically in the thousands). These are intended to be drop-in replacements for existing screens. These would also include the reflecting and polarizing layers, but would not include the rubber "Zebra" connectors that connect the LCD screen to the board (will need to be re-used). Here are the steps in the project: 1. Find out if enough people want these (starts now!) 2. Order prototypes (6 week delay; I pay for that up-front to supplier) 3. Order production run (6 week delay; payment required up-front to supplier) 3. Payment for units (to me) 4. Ship units to you Yes, there are two #3s listed above. The order of these two will depend on how much money I have on hand at the moment. I'm not a big fan of receiving payment prior to items being ready to ship (because life and shit happens, and I don't really want to have your money if I'm not able to ship these out for any reason). If needed at the time, maybe a down-payment or voluntary early payment system could be used. That's all well ahead of us, though... the first step is finding out who all wants one or more of these, so let's concentrate on that... There's a number of costs related to this project. Some are known, such as engineering cost and production cost, and some are unknown, such as customs and duty, and shipping parts to me. Therefore, I've come up with some maximum prices in US dollars (shipping not included): Quantity 1: $22.00 maximum Quantity 2+: $20.50 each, maximum Quantity 4+: $19.00 each, maximum Quantity 8+: $17.50 each, maximum I want to stress that the goal of this initial offering is not to make money, but to get this project going. As an estimate, if about 70 are pre-ordered, which is about the lowest I can go, I'll need to put a fair bit of my own money into the project (but will hopefully be able to sell the extras on an ongoing basis later on, maybe for $25 each, and eventually break even). If about 130 are pre-ordered, that is the break-even point for the prices listed above. If more than about 130 are pre-ordered, then the price will go down accordingly. If I recall correctly from my spreadsheet, if 170 are pre-ordered, your price goes down by about $5 for each unit (at least the lower quantity orders - the higher quantity orders might go down a bit less). The main reason for this is the fixed engineering cost, which would get spread out thinner over a higher quantity of units. If the quantities reach high enough (like 130+), I'll keep you updated with the current maximum price. At some point this pre-order stage will end... I will give at least 2 weeks advance notice for that (open ended for now, until the numbers go up). I should mention that once you've bought and received your replacement screens, they're yours to do whatever you want with them... resell them at any price you see fit, put them in systems and sell those at any price you see fit, keep them on your shelf to look at, etc. So, the first step is to find out if enough people want these. If you do want one or more of these, please reply to this thread with the quantity you're seriously interested in purchasing. That's the simplest for me to keep track of. There may be reasons you don't want to publish the quantity you want - in that case, send me a PM. Either way, I'll post the total number requested here in this thread, to keep everyone updated. Also, reply ideally, or send a PM, if you have any questions. Finally, thanks for everyone who pre-orders. I want this to happen as I have about 10 Microvisions, including only about 1 that works well. As incentive, the plan is that the pre-order price will be the lowest price to get these. Also, any help in spreading the word is appreciated (feel free to post with links, if applicable). Links: 1. Shorter version of initial post at DigitPress: https://forum.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?175968-Microvision-replacement-screen-project-pre-order-amp-purchase-here 2. Much shorter version of initial post at CGCC: http://cgcc.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31048 3. Dan's post at Hand Held Museum: http://www.handheldmuseum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2275 FAQ: 1. Will the new screens be susceptible to screen rot? They shouldn't be. These will be brand new displays, built to high standards. We're used to the Microvision display being very poor, but most or nearly all other small LCD displays work well for many, many years. 2. What is the operating and storage temperature of the display. Operating Range: 0C to +50C. Storage Range: -10C to +60C. 3. Are the Zebra connectors (that connect the LCD screen to the board) reusable? Yes.They tend to stick a bit when they've been connected for a long time, but they seem to be robust in their ability to connect well with repeated use. 4. Are there installation instructions? Is it easy to install? Note that I'm still working with the supplier to fix the contrast range, so ignoring any potential work that may require, here are some pictures of disassembly of a Microvision (re-assembly is basically the reverse, although the front polarizer is not required). It's fairly easy, although sometimes the wires and other parts like to move around a bit, so plan on 20 minutes for a full upgrade.
  3. Over the past few months I've been given many Atari hardware items and software. These belonged to a friend of mine who was an avid member of the local Atari user group. He died about two years ago, and his son passed away about a year ago. I have been receiving various bits of documentation, paperwork, hardware and software from their family members in the time since they passed away. I've been asking what has and has not been archived and I've been doing my best to make sure that it has been archived (thanks to Allan Bushman for scanning and taking care of this 8-bit material-- he's such a great archivist!). Until this point, I've not given too much thought about using some of the hardware like the 1050/810 disk drives. These were all stored in an outdoor barn/shed. All of the hardware (the computers included) is very dusty and I'd be shocked to learn that any of disk drives work at all. A couple of months ago a friend of mine suggested that he would like to see an Atari load-up some floppy disks to play some games. We can do that already, as I have a disk drive emulator for the Atari and various AtariMax flash carts, but he wants to see some real 5 1/4" floppies booting to some game or other. In addition, included in the last batch of Atari items that I was given, was quite a bit of the Atari 8-bit public domain PD library on 5 1/4" floppy. It might be neat to load some of that stuff up on real hardware. My question is: is there a FAQ or repair/restoration manuals and/or videos on how to go through and restore Atari 810/1050 disk drives. I guess, at the minimum, I'd need to learn to clean/lubricate gears/motors/heads. Adam P.S. I also have several Atari 410 program recorders, but I'm not sure that restoring those would even be worth the effort. Or is there a reason to have these around?
  4. I've recently purchased a non-working Sega CD off of e-Bay that had a problem with the tray constantly ejecting and not spinning discs. After some minor gear realignment and a belt change I was able to get the tray working 100% but for some reason I am still not able to load any games . Strange thing about this is I am still able to play audio CDs just fine. I've tested the games it came with on a modchiped Xbox and they played fine so I am begining to think this may be some kind of laser issue. I've already tried all the basic cleaning steps and am ready to consult the experts. I want to bring this thing back to life! P.S. Any experience with generic KSS-240A laser pickups?
  5. Repairing an Arcadia 2001 Controller I had problems with a fire button of the left Arcadia 2001 controller, not firing anymore. The Arcadia-controllers are very simple and were cheaply made. Even working, they are not great controllers. In the end nothing will help, but making complete new controllers of quality components, with real switches. I might do that sometime, if there should be some games I really like and want to play decently. Not sure yet. But for the beginning a repair should be enough. Simultaneously I'm using the opportunity to preserve that technology by uploading a few pictures. That's my left controller: Inside everything is glued together. By pulling carefully the parts can be separated. The mylar is quite corroded and a bit dirty: Showing the color scheme the plug: The wiring of the mylar itself, in case somebody wants to make a reproduction (or wonders, why pushing the "2"-key, also triggers the gun). Both red fire buttons are wired in parallel. They are just simple buttons, no rocker switches, no up and down. It is a 5x5 millimeters grid in the background. I cleaned the corrosion and without heavy rubbing, not only oxidation went off, but also the printed conducting traces. They really are not bound firmly with the plastic carrier. Look at the red circle. I cleaned away part of button and wire, by using alcohol, an ear pad and too much pressure and rubbing. Cleaning must be done extremely careful: For the first time I tried to repair with conducting silver, since soldering is impossible. I made a mask of transparent tape for painting the new trace. I learnt, painting one time is not enough: To lower electric resistance, the trace must be thicker. I painted three times. Narrow traces are bad, too. They have to be wide. Contact with the original traces must overlap as far as possible to make good contact. Left picture: painting a few times. Right picture: pulling off the tape. I also re-painted the conductive pad of the fire-button later on. I took no photo. Before reassembling I protected the new traces with transparent tape, since the silver color can't get inside the mylar's surface and gets scratched off quite easily. Reassembled the controller, checked it, working again! I can't predict, how long the new pad of the button will last, of course. Hopefully some time...
  6. I have 2 different TI 99/4A systems (one with the solid state badge and one without), and both of them were working fine earlier today. However, when I came home the power LED had failed on one unit. I opened the machine up and replaced the LED with a blue one - but it didn't light. I replaced the resistor with a 4.7kΩ resistor and it was fine. However, before replacing the resistor, I used an analog multimeter to measure the voltage across the LED (8v, apparently), but one of the probes slipped into the middle of the supply and caused a few sparks to fly. However, the LED was still illuminated and it seemed to work fine. The computer was disconnected from the supply when this happened. However, when I reassembled the computer... Nothing. A few white dots come through the display on power up but that's it. I figure this was probably my fault and put a known good supply in - no luck. Naturally, being as stupid as I am and it being 11PM, I put the bad supply in the other machine. The same thing happened. I have not yet put the good one back in to test it. Did I just accidentally kill two different TI 99 machines? I really hope not, I love these things, one even has the packaging! Is there any way to fix these or even to diagnose what's wrong? I'd really like them to work but I don't want to go buy another machine, I just don't have the money.
  7. Morning folks, I wonder if anyone can help. I am desperately looking for some springs on what I think is an Atari 800XL type keyboard. In my latest repair a few have stretched and are no longer working very well. I have tried Best in the US, but unfortunately thry have a US$20 minimum order for international orders and have suggested that the shipping would also be prohibitively expensive. I was wondering if anyone out there would be prepared to send me a few across. Happy to pay whatever you think might be reasonable amount by Paypal. I need 3-4 conical springs and the two springs either side of the spacebar. Surely someone, somewhere has a scrapper machine they have stripped for spares from which they could recover a few springs? I would be extremely grateful if some kind sole would help. Heres to hoping, Nyonuk.
  8. So I recently acquired an Odyssey 2 and some games. When I bought it, I checked to make sure it booted up and everything, which it did. Unfortunately, I didn't actually try playing a game. I sat down today to play one, and it seems the player 1 controller has an input problem, because the player is always walking to the left. Its acting the same as if on an N64 where if you have the analog stick held down when you boot the console, that input repeats itself until you reset. I plan to open up the controller and console this weekend and give it a cleaning, but I was wondering if anyone had insight as to what to look for or any videos to point me to. Thanks!
  9. I just purchased an Atari Space Age Joystick, but the red trigger fire button doesn't work. Everything else works fine, and is super smooth, but only button won't work. Can anyone make any suggestions as to how to fix it cause I'm at a loss as it is very different from a standard joystick.
  10. I've got an older Odyssey 2 (the kind with the beige switchbox that it needs), and I'm having video trouble. I've attached a quick video of what it does. It looks like it switches on for a split second, turns off, repeat..? I had a buddy go over and check the power supply, check the traces on the board, and still no difference. We also tried tapping the RF directly off the internal RF convertor, bypassing the proprietary cable that comes off the back. I'm hoping this is a problem someone else has encountered.
  11. Hey there Atari Age! Apologies for my very first post being a question but times are dire on my workbench. A friend handed me his childhood Pong console (C-100) that he had dug out of a closet and lamented that the video was weird on his TV. After lecturing him on the intricacies of "classic" video devices on new display hardware, I saw the issue he was actually having. The colors and signal attenuation were all wonky and the screen would often appear split into four quadrants. Even worse, there was no sound to be had from the speaker. In my head I immediately changed my opinion to RF output issues. Possibly a simple fix with some adjustments or in-line amplification. After trying both go these methods, the problem persists and in fact has gotten even worse with the display showing barely any output whatsoever. Since the problem is getting worse, I'm making the assumption that the electrolytic caps are probably done for and might need a replacement. My question to all of you is: anyone seen this or similar issue? What steps did you take to remedy? This is definitely the oldest console I've worked on and in principle the electronics are just plain ol' electronics (with really rough solder jobs sometimes... I just spent almost an hour trying to remove the main power conditioning cap) but there's probably a lot of quirks and intricacies that I don't know about. I'm much more familiar with the Nintendo/Sega 8-bit era and beyond. Any thoughts? Anecdotes? Well wishes? Glad to be here with you all. Cheers, Ian
  12. I was playing Jr Pac Man with the Coleco Gemini Atari 2600 clone joystick / paddle and decided to try a paddle game, Circus Atari. The short throw joystick is great for quick turns and reverses. The paddle, however, was jitter city. The second controller did not jitter so I decided to clean or replace the paddle part. Remove the four corner screws and the Center screw. Five screws. They sure didn't go cheap here as there is a sixth screw, but that is for the joystick. Leave that one in. No clips, it just opens. OMG, there is no potentiometer! Well, not completely true - it is like a big exposed potentiometer. It is just a circuit board with a carbon strip that will change the resistance value. I have seen them smaller, used for volume knobs on radios. If used a lot they wear down and cause noise when moving. Is Coleco cheap, or brilliant? I am still not sure, but this makes cleaning a breeze, and replacement impossible. So, out comes my ancient "Realistic® Tape Recorder Head Lubricant" and a bit of paper towel. A quick wipe, put it back together... And it is rock steady! A fixed paddle controller. Tip: when using with Harmony cartridge, holding down the fire button changes the way the stick / paddle is read by the menu software.
  13. Over the summer I picked up a used Lynx II bundle on Game Gavel. It worked great for a few months but the sound has recently stopped working. I've read that this is a common issue for the Lynx II and that either the capacitors or speaker may need replaced. Is this a simple repair? Or should I just get another unit as their relatively inexpensive? Thanks!
  14. Hello, I don't have experience with hardware so I'm looking for someone who can fix my Commodore 64, it powers on and has no aesthetic damage but it doesn't output video for some reason, so please reply if you are willing to take on this task. I'm located in Tennessee by the way.
  15. Hello everyone, First of all: I am new to this forum and to the Atari 2600. I'm not sure if this is the right way/place to ask this, so if not, please tell me. I recently bought an Atari 2600 (darth vader) PAL console in untested condition. I got it to work mostly, the problems it had have mostly been solved except for one: There is interference in the video (RF) signal, which results in white dots moving around the screen in waves. (I have attached a video and an image of it) Here is what I already tried: -Use an NES (nintendo) RF switch instead of the built-in cable: introduced more static and the white dots remained. -Disconnected the RF cable from the Atari's motherboard and tried it with an NES: worked perfectly fine, no static at all. -Cleaned both connectors and the cable with some alcohol: Improved nothing. -Finetuned the tv channel multiple times. Important to mention is that the cable has been damaged and soldered back together by the previous owner, but since it worked fine with the NES i don't think this is the problem. My guess would be that there is something wrong with the big capacitor on the board or the RF modulator. It could also be due to the power adapter, it is one of those universal adapters on which you can set the voltage, I set it to 9V, I dont have an original one. Any help or tips would be greatly apriciated. MOV_0053.mp4
  16. Upon getting back into my Intellivisions this past week, I have been noticing a common problem with the model 1 units. Now, the controllers on both my Sears units have excellent flex circuits left in them and are very responsive. Well, except the controller with the bad cord. My original model 1 I bought years back for $5 has always had problems with the disk on the left controller, so I decided to investigate. The circuit under the disks seem to be prone to not only wearing through the plastic, but also the ink or whatever they used start to look burned and flakes off! The controllers on my mostly dead Tandyvision showed similar issues, but one was good enough to act as a donor for my model 1 for now. Now, here's some questions: Is there a way to slow this issue and even extend the life of the controllers? The Intellivision seems to be a solid console, with my Tandyvision being the only unit I have so far to get a major problem. Also, is there a way to repair the controllers? I am wondering if one can carefully apply an adhesive tape to repair the split plastic, then maybe paint the circuit back on with conductive ink?
  17. I was wondering if anyone would be wiling to help fix my sega CD, I could gift you say... 25$ via paypal, i have no idea whats wrong with it, its the sideloader. i dont remember if it will power on or not, i will let the person whom will fix it know. thanks.
  18. Hi all! I have been a spectator here for years... and now I get to post, since my Atari 800XL is not working properly. I recently purchased an Atari 800XL with 256K mod and an Omniview 80 Column Mod. There are switches on the back to disable both, I have always had both disabled. I was playing Kaboom! with my son and the game froze. After that, I have not been able to get the Atari to output any kind of picture again. Red LED still comes on when turned on and plugged in. Connected to HDTV with the Monitor cable - 1 to video and 1 to audio. When I turn on: Black screen sometimes, Pinkish/Orange screen sometimes. Once I got the blue screen with some scrambled letters and symbols moving about the screen. I am not an electronics expert, but I have soldered a few things in my time and I have repaired a few TVs. <-- but by following someone else's instructions and diagnosis. So... my question. Do I need to take this to an electronics shop? Should I just buy another one? Thanks. This is my 4th Atari and I finally had the means to enjoy the machine with my boys and KABOOM! my Atari blew up! Tom
  19. Hello everybody, I love playing my 2600 games. I had a 2600 for awhile, the screen was black and it mysteriously stopped working. I bought a new one, it's a 4 switch one. I noticed when I play games on it it's usually fine at first, I played 3-4 games of Centipede earlier. It started flickering really bad and it went gray but you could still see the picture but it was really distorted. The audio doesn't seem to be affected at all. Should I get a new power source? Tighten the cord? Clean the insides? Any help is appreciated. Thanks for your time.
  20. Hi, although this is my first post, I am definitely not new here. I've poked around this site for years, now. With that said, I recently picked up a Famicom w/ Disk System for 40 dollars, sold as untested. While the Famicom, itself, does work, The Disk System is as I expected. The belt was destroyed. I cleaned that up and replaced it with a new belt. Now it works, but a new problem appears. This video explains the problem. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfCVyB2c378 If you have any ideas, please let me know, that would be nice. Thanks.
  21. As a kid I got most of Mattel Electronics handhelds. Always treated them fairly well and kept the boxes, instructions, etc. For the last 30+ years, every few years or so, I'll take them out and play a few games. This week, when I took out Mattel Electronics Auto Race, it seemed to have died. After some fiddling, I managed to fix it. Here's a summary, in the hopes that someone else out there with a similar problem might be able to fix theirs also... Last time I played the game a few years ago, for the first time in maybe 7-8 years, I noticed that the LED's were kind of flickery (which I didn't remember them being years ago), and the game seemed to play slower than I remembered. Also, sometimes you'd have to turn the on/off switch a couple times to get the game to start....sometimes you'd turn it on and there'd just be faint blips scattered on the screen, or the screen would stay black. Oh well, it mostly worked, so I didn't mess with it. The other day I went to play the game and couldn't get it to play at all. Turning the switch to 'start' usually did nothing. Occasionally if you flicked back and forth, or wiggled it around a bit, you could get some random blips to show up, but it wouldn't actually play. So I decided to take it apart and take a look. The big problem with these Mattel handhelds? Those stupid triangle screws. 2 solutions that I know of. One (the good way), is to find a 3-sided, triangular shaped metal file that tapers to a small traingular point. I've got one from my grandfather, must be 75 years old, that just fits the screws pretty good. Not sure if they still make/sell files like this, but there ya go. Second (the bad way), is to just carefully drill out the screws using a drillbit just slightly smaller than the screw head. You'll get it apart, but will later have to superglue the case back together (or use rubber bands to hold it). Pull the steering button off - it was difficult on mine, but if you just keep pulling straight up and *carefully* wiggling it back and forth, it eventually pops off. Now you can remove the entire circuit board and take a good look. I assumed the problem was with the on/off switch. First I tried using wires with small alligator clips to jump the posts attaching the switch to the board, thus bypassing it and making the game always be "on". Doing that, the game would sometimes come on and play the way it had a few years ago....flickery LED's and seemingly slower gameplay. Sometimes the screen would just get random garbage blips on it. Sometimes it would start to play, and then crap out. Hmmm. Maybe not the switch, maybe one of the components is just fried. Then I was noticing a small "pot"...a little circular thing with a slot in it that you can turn with a screwdriver. You often see these in old computers (like the Atari 8-bits), and videogame systems, where it works as a color adjustment knob. Why is it in this Auto Race game??? I turned it a bit. After doing so, the game played flawlessly again....solid bright LED's, it played faster (the way I remember it being originally), and oddly enough the On/Off switch works fine all the time - it's no longer flakey. Turns out that little adjustment knob controls the speed of the game. If you play around with it you can make the game play slower or faster. So what happened? I guess after not being moved for 40 years the contacts got worn/corroded/whatever. Just moving it a bit moved the contacts to a 'fresh spot' and solved the problem. If you have a Mattel Electronics Auto Race game that seems dead, broken, acts strangely, or the start switch seems to be messed up, give this a shot. Hopefully someone else benefits from the info (because I myself was searching for "Mattel Auto Race repair" and came up with nothing!).
  22. Hi All, I am new on here as I have just rescued my old TI99/4a from my Mum & Dads loft and fired it up but does not seem to be working properly. Kinda gutted as I was looking forward to seeing all my programs I created when I was an imaginative teenager. Do you know where I could get this repaired or any advice on how I could repair it myself? I live in the UK. The computer switches on but the screen display is not right as you can see by the attached photo. Many Thanks. Steve
  23. I completely took apart one of my SACs, cleaned every contact and connector. I still cannot get any keypad buttons to function. I have two controllers, and not one working keypad button between them. I know the commonality of broken SACs has been brought up before. But has anyone actually successfully repaired the keypad on their Super Action Controller? If so, could you share what you did to fix it? Thanks,
  24. So a friend of mine sent me a TRS-80 Model III that her dad owned, along with a handful of software. It's a 48k model with two disk drives, so it was the high-end Model III that Radio Shack sold. It arrived a few days ago, and I've been checking it out to make sure everything works, and for the most part, it appears to be in pretty good condition. It's seen little use over the years, and has spent a large amount of its time in storage. Unfortunately, it does seem to have developed some issues over the years, and I wanted to check with the community to get some advice on what I need to do to repair these things, and if I need parts, where I can get those. Here are the issues I've found thus far: The brightness and contrast pots are both seized up. My guess is due to oxidation over the years, possibly from being in storage and not really being used a lot. Neither of the two disk drives seem to be getting any power. The computer will turn on and boots up with the "CASS?" message in the upper-left corner. The disk drives do not spin when switched on. I'm suspecting the power board that controls the disk drives, and my guess is one or more capacitors have failed. I did a quick glance at the board last night and didn't see any that looked like they had been physically burned or anything like that, but I can supply photos later tonight if that would be of help. One of the disk drives has a broken latch. The latch can still operate and will still hold the disk down, but one of the plastic bits has broken off, and sometimes when you set the latch, the drive mechanism inside pops loose and goes back up. It's a minor issue, and shouldn't affect anything so long as I slowly set the latch and make sure it's secured down. This is the least of the issues I've found, and one I can easily fix later. The most pressing of the issues, of course, is the power board, because the brightness and contrast are already set at a comfortable level. It's just that at some point I'd like to fix that as well so I can make adjustments as needed later.
  25. I picked up my first Lynx and about 30 games at the weekend. It's a Lynx II in great condition, and with it came two other brand new and boxed but non-working Lynx IIs. They were dead on arrival when they were new, so even if I can't get them working they might be useful for spare parts. Dead Lynx A completely unresponsive: I tried with both fresh batteries and a Lynx PSU and there is no response when I press the 'on' button. I tried connecting the negative battery terminal to the negative (ground?) pin of the speaker jack (which I saw in a YouTube video) - when I did this the screen backlight comes on but there is still no response. Problem Lynx B works perfectly except for the screen display being fixed solid black. The backlight switches on and off, sound plays, buttons respond etc., but the 'brightness' setting does nothing. Again I tried both batteries and a PSU. I tried switching over the motherboards of these two machines, to see if Lynx B's problem is just with its screen, but there was still just a solid black image. I was wondering if I could swap a McWill screen into this machine, but I'm not sure if this problem would persist with that screen too- is there any way I can test whether that would work? Is there any other A/B testing I can do between these two machines to help identify the problem components? Are there any other standard things I can test for? Thanks in advance!
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