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Blogs

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  • The Word Of Ogma
  • GC's blog
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  • Cheat Blog
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  • Verbal Compost
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  • Rybags' Blog
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  • grafix's Bit Mouse Playhouse
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  • EricBall's Tech Projects (PRIVATE)
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  • I created this second blog on accident and now I can't figure out how to delete it.
  • keilbaca's Blog
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  • Old School Gamer Review
  • The Mario Blog
  • GideonsDad's Blog
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  • Horst's Blog
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  • Blogpocalypse
  • simonl's Blog
  • creeping insanity
  • Sonic R's Blog
  • CebusCapucinis' Blog
  • Syntax Terror Games
  • NCN's Blog
  • A Wandering Shadow's Travels
  • Arjak's Blog
  • 2600Lives' Blog
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  • Kiwi's Blog
  • Stephen's A8 Blog
  • Zero One
  • Troglodyte's Blog
  • Austin's Blog
  • Robert Hurst
  • This Is Reality Control
  • Animan's Blog Of Unusual Objectionalities
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  • The 7800 blog
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  • Robert @ AtariAge
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  • That's what she said.
  • Hitachi's Blog
  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
  • Goochman's Marketplace Blog
  • Marc Oberhäuser's Blog
  • Masquane's AtariAge Blog
  • satan165's Dusty Video Game Museum
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  • Retail hell (The EB years)
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  • A Ramblin' Man
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  • Bri's House
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  • raskar42
  • The P3 Studio
  • Bydo's Blog
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  • Chuplayer's Blog
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  • POKEY experiments
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  • Brain droppings...
  • Sandra's blog
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  • Maybe its a Terrible Tragedy
  • Guru Meditation
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  • The 12 Turn Program: Board Game Addiction and You
  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • Whoopdeedoo
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  • DJT's High Score Blog [Test]
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  • Adam24's AtariAge Blog!
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  • an atari story
  • JDRose
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  • The Forth Files
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  • Partyhaus
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • The hunt for the PAL Heavy Sixer
  • Liduario's Blog
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  • HSC Experience
  • people to fix atari Blog
  • Gronka's Blog
  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
  • cncfreak's Blog
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  • Lynx Links
  • bomberpunk's Blog
  • CorBlog
  • My Ideas/Rants
  • quetch's Blog
  • jamvans game hunting blog
  • CannibalCat's Blog
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  • jetset's Blog
  • wibblebibble's Basic Blog
  • retrovideogamecollector's Blog
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  • The Golden Age Arcade Historian
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  • Cool 'n' Crispy: The Blog of Iceberg_Lettuce
  • ahuffman's Blog
  • Bergum's Thoughts Blog
  • marminer's Blog
  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
  • I like to rant.
  • Cleaning up my 2600
  • AnimaInCorpore's Blog
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  • Coleco Pacman Simulator (CPMS)
  • ianoid's Blog
  • HLO projects
  • Retro Junky Garage
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  • Synthpop Universe
  • Atari 5200 Joystick Controllers
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  • Make Atari 2600 games w/o programming!
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  • Atari 2600 game maps
  • Crazy Climber Metal
  • Keith Makes Games
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  • bow830
  • Gernots A500 game reviews
  • Byte's Blog
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  • My blog of stuff and things
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  • GG's Game Dev, Homebrew Review, Etc. Log
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  1. I first started this discussion in another topic about RAM, but I think it's time to give it its own topic for easier search and find. So what is it? It's a replacement for the stock RF Modulator, that is specifically designed to output high quality, Composite, S-Video, and Audio through onboard PCB mounted jacks. If this goes as planned, there will be NO WIRES required during installation. And aside from a heavy duty (high wattage) soldering iron to remove the original modulator, this thing will pop right onto the existing Main ColecoVision PCB. And with a commonly found stepped-drill some simple mods to the rear plastic case will give you full access to all the outputs (RCA's for Composite Video and Audio -- Mini-DIN for S-Video). So although there were some initial schematics that got previously shared, suffice it to say that they are not based on the final design. There have been tweaks that were born out of having gained a better understanding of the LM1889 chip's color subcarrier output characteristics. To put it into a nutshell, the video quality has continued to improve, and it's now looking very nice. Even the composite output looks great. So here we see a composite CRT on the Left, and an S-Video LCD on the right. Keep in mind that the CRT is not some fancy Sony PVM, but just a cheap little DVD semi-portable player I purchased in 2004. The LCD is a bit newer by probably 5-6 years, being a 720P Vizio with a whole gamut of inputs ranging from Component, VGA, HDMI, Composite, and S-Video (that's the way things should have stayed -- oh well). This newest video upgrade design puts out fully buffered versions of Composite and S-Video simultaneously without any cross talk between them. Jail bars are extremely minimal, and what's present is most likely due to the protoboard with the plugged in mess of wires that I'm using for my tests (you can see part of it off to right). I feel really good that once this gets made into a real PCB it'll be perfect. The cost of the parts required is very low, and there are absolutely no hard to get components, although a few do need to be purchased from either eBay or AliExpress. When I get the design locked in, I'll post the final schematics. And following that I'll post the PCB gerbers as well.
  2. Hi, some years ago I gave a promise to an ABBUC member to make a video-out solution for his Atari 400 without the need of changing parts, scratching conducting paths or any other destructive mod to his Atari 400. He´s a real "hardcore" collector with no way in give-and-take regarding this point. After tinkering around with an "add-on" PCB for the GTIA socket I failed, because there´s not enough space. Of course - from a collector´s view - it´s a No-Go to remove the metal cabinet, so I decide to create a complete new CPU board with the needed components directly on it. I´ve reached the goal by 99%. A very little bit of soldering is required and the need to drill one hole into the metal assembly - the shielded video cable needs a place to break out, there´s no way else than making a new 5 mm hole somehwere in the upper part of the metal assembly. So here´s my solution: The Super Color CPU Card for Atari 400 and Atari 800 systems This PCB is a complete replacement for the original CPU card in any Atari 400 or 800 using PAL or NTSC. This PCB works NOT with SECAM. You are able to use both CPU-types found in the Atari 400 and Atari 800 series, the standard 6502B MOS CPU (without HALT signal) and the Atari-specialized version 6502C, also called "Sally". Chips (CPU, ANTIC and CTIA or GTIA) are not included and must be pulled of the built-in Atari CPU card. But they are always in sockets, so it´s easy. Circuitry on this PCB is nearly 100% the same like at the genuine Atari CPU card with some changes to make it possible to use both CPU types. You only need to set five jumpers to select the desired CPU type. Addiitonal the PAL color clock generation circuit is onboard for PAL systems. There´s a seperate jumper to select PAL or NTSC - this jumper connects the GTIA "PALC" pin to either the output of the PAL color clock generator or directly to 3,57 MHz system clock (NTSC). Only for clarifying this: You can´t just switch the jumper and make a NTSC system to a PAL computer or vice versa. At least you´ve to change ANTIC, GTIA and of course the system clock crystal at the mainboard At least a third jumper block (not existing an the prototype shown on the picture above) enables/disables the 75 Ohm termination resistors for Luma, Chrominance or CVBS output. This setting must be tested depending on the connected monitor or television - sometimes the picture quality is better with, sometimes without termination resistors. The video out solution is based on the Atari 800 XL video circuitry without mixing Luma and Chroma together. Of course the well-known mods are already integrated. The final signals are amplified and filtered by the Fairchild FMS6410 VideoAmp. This chip also generates the CVBS signal. So you can use either S-Video (Y/C) for best picture quality or CVBS for common monitors and televisions which doesn´t accept S-Video (Y/C) input. Please notice: This video solution can´t performing magic. I test it on different computer monitors and televisions. The best performance - as ever in every setting with old computers - will be shown on CRT (tube) monitors or televisions. Of course for Atari 400 owners EVERYTHING is better than the antenna (RF) output, but don´t expect a higher quality than the regular Atari 800 S-video output. It might be better, but I can´t promise. That´s impossible by the dozens of different monitors, cables, T.V. systems and so on. Scope of delivery One PCB "Super Color CPU Card" for Atari 400 or Atari 800 computers, capable using 6502B or 6502C CPU, runs on PAL or NTSC systems A manual (illustrated installation instructions) in german and english (sent by email with shipping out notice) One DIN connector 5 pin to lead out the video signals (optional for Atari 800 users) approx 50 cm shielded cable for video out approx 50 cm shielded cable for internal audio connection (optional for Atari 800 users) I offer two versions of the PCB "Standard" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, standard HASL surface (as shown in the picture above) "Gold" = Full populated (except Atari custom chips) PCB, gold-finished (ENIG) surface (like my Sys-Check and many other solutions) The ENIG (gold-finished) surface is more rugged against rust and fouling. Because the naked PCB price doubles when choosing ENIG at this board size, I offer two versions. Prices One "Standard" PCB = 48 Euros each One "Gold" PCB = 59 Euros each Registered and insured shipping 1 or 2 piece(s) worldwide = 9 Euros Registered and insured shipping 3 or 4 pieces worldwide = 12 Euros More than 4 pieces or specialized = please ask Info: After some bad experiences with some postal services I only ship insured now. Time schedule I will collect orders and payments until the end of January, the 22.th 2017 (GMT) At the end of January I will order the parts and PCBs Assembling and shipping out can take up to 6 weeks, because there´s no holidays for me, assembling will be done in my spare time Depending on shipping time you will get your PCB(s) in March or April 2017 - This is the worst case, but I won´t promise things I can´t realize. So this is a safe suggestion. First payment, first serve: I can´t make all PCBs at one time, so small batches will be made. Date & Time of cleared payment sets the order of shipping out Please sent me a PM (personal message) or leave a post in this thread. You will get an answer soon. Practical hints for Atari 400 users The Atari 400 hasn´t any S-Video/CVBS output and no standard monitor jack, just an antenna (RF) cable. This cable is replaceable, so the best way is to remove the whole cable. You can use the hole in the case where the antenna cable was now for the new video out cable. At the end a standard DIN 5 pin connector coupling is applied. You can use ANY standard CVBS or S-Video cable made for any Atari XL or XE (or the Atari 800) to connect your Atari 400 to a monitor or television. The sound signal must be clamped from the main PCB. Nothing is destructive, only two solder drops at the mainboard of your Atari 400 must be made and one hole with ~5 mm diameter must be drilled in the metal cage for leading the video cable out. Practical hints for Atari 800 users Remark: The Atari 800 has already a quite good video output (S-Video). The CVBS output ranges something in the middle of existing video solutions. The need of my Super Color CPU card isn´t really mandatory for an Atari 800 owner, but it CAN improve video quality. Of course without any promises. I repeat that to make this point of view clear for all interests. The first option is to go ahead like the Atari 400 user. Replace the antenna cable with the new video cable. The existing monitor connector is always out of function when replacing the Atari CPU card with my Super Color CPU Card. Second option for Atari 800 users is to use the existing monitor jack with the new Chroma, Luma and CVBS signal. For this purpose the best way is to bend away the three connections from the mainboard to the power-PCB transmitting these three signals. This is reversible, non-destructive and needs only four additional drops of solder at the monitor jack. The manual will show how to do and also point at the junctions where to grab the audio signal, too. If you want, the external monitor DIN 5 pin coupling connector is already soldered. Leave your wish with your order, otherwise I will ask when confiming your payment. Any questions? Feel free to ask Jurgen
  3. After many trial and errors I would like to share so far best Cable I did for myself. It is DIN5 --> SCART, for Stock XE models or XL with chroma/luma mod for s-video standard. Detail of READY prompt looks nice with signals going to grid exactly as it should and appear like dots on grid, basically pixels. So called DOUBLE or better INDIVIDUALLY shielded cable is a must. I did Cable for s-video 4 din standard and picture was good, but not so great as this SCART. Finished Cable length is 1.8M. Cable is wired into spirals around individual cores. Stock ATARI 800XE with this Cable Next step will be S.X.E to get rid of the some signal impurity.
  4. A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
  5. hi all whats the best s-video /picture improvement for a pal 800xl please? googling usually brings this one up (ultra video) http://www.atari8.co.uk/downloads/UltraVideo%20XL%201.0.pdf has anyone here done it and can report its the best current option? looking at the schematic seems to bring up a couple questions re how well it will actually work, so please if anyone can pitch in with links or confirmation, that'd be appreciated. it needs to be a simple and reliable mod, cheap, standard (no vxbe etc) just s-video and any simple improvements as ultra video suggests cheers! Iain
  6. Hello, I know this is a strange dual platform question. But I am thinking of adding a S-Video mod to both my 7800 and 800XL. From what I can see there is the UAV (800XL and 7800) and the Spectre AV (800XL) ones available. The idea in both cases is to run these through a Retrotink 5x. As I am not the best at soldering, I wonder if anyone can recommend someone who could mod the machines in Europe? Both are PAL devices, and I would prefer an EU based company/person in order to avoid customs issues. However, non-EU could be tolerated 🙂 It would be ideal if the same company/person could do both machines.
  7. I like my little Atari 400 but in order to use (play games on) it, I need to get the old TV up from it's storage shelf in the basement as the 400 only has RF output. (I also have it's RAM upgraded to 1056k. ? ) While I know there is the SCCC to do this, it's sold out and it's fun to make my own board. So, I just ordered 5 of these boards and should know if it works in a little over 2 weeks. I integrated some of the electronics from the 600XLM board for video and audio. Also, I took my existing 400 CPU board and tested it out with a SALLY chip to make sure I had the theory right. The idea is that a Sally will work if /halt is held high and R/W is connected to pin 36 as opposed to pin 34. It worked. (See second pic. I stacked a couple sockets to jump the R/W and connect to the /halt pin as I don't want to solder to a Sally chip.)
  8. So I'm currently debating on S-Video cable choice for the PlayStation 1. Seems like I have four options here... Cheap generic PS1 S-Video cable - One of those cheap Tomee/Hyperkin. Seems like it works but can do better - Cost around $6 Generic PS1 S-Video only cable - Kind of like the previous one, but supposedly having ONLY S-Video (and no composite) on the cable makes it a bit better? - Cost around $10 Generic All-in-One cable - You know this style! That one that has a connector for all the consoles and outputs (usually) composite and S-video. Unsure of quality comparative to the rest. - Cost around $15 Official Sony S-Video cable - I'm considering this as it's the highest quality... but also the most expensive. - Cost around $30 (with shipping) Just hoping to avoid buying several cables and/or a pointless cable if I can. I know I should probably just get a set of HDRetrovision ones, but that requires the Sega Genesis cable plus adapter. The Sega Genesis cables are sold out. Anybody here have experience with these and offer their opinion?
  9. Hi Heres how you can make your own top quality S-Video video board for almost any Atari 8 bit. It uses few parts and would take minutes to install. The Atari series shares the same common IC graphics chip (GTIA) and has Luma and chroma produced at a high level. Unfortunately Atari made an ass of this on the XL series (particularly the 600XL) and didnt improve much with the XE series. I produced a module that did this a few years back but thought i would make the details on how you can make your own here. Ive photographed my own for clarity, but ive some ataris with just the components hard wired on to the boards with wires, The circuit has been tested on: 400 800XL 600XL 65XE 130XE 800XE XEGs it will definitely work on 1200XL's and 800's, however the 800 has good native s-video, so it would be best to leave alone or use Jurgens 800 color board as the components needed to remove are more fiddly. Parts required: 33 Ohm resistor (any wattage - a 0.25w one is suggested) 50 ohm trimmer 16V 22uF capacitor (10uf value will work also) The circuit looks like this (both on cad and in simple layout) The layout should be similar to this: The circuit can easily be hard wired together or put on prototype board etc. The instruction on installation to your Atari can be found here (ignore the fact its a module and substitute for the board/circuit) Magic Knights XL-XE module instruction.pdf Anyone wanting to make their own PCB - heres the gerber files etc : XL s-video 1.00f_2018-12-04.zip Comments and questions welcome! Richard
  10. REAL 3DO Panasonic Player with Ultra Rare Accessories 1 - REAL 3DO Panasonic player in excellent condition - it has the S-Video port too! 1 - original remote in excellent condition 1 - Ultra Rare 3DO game guru with game samples and original box in excellent condition 1 - Rare 3DO 6 button joypad in original box and like new condition 2 - Rare 3DO American Laser Game game guns only excellent condition 2 - ULTRA RARE 3DO Cheat Books in good to excellent condition. Perfect for the collector 1 - Theme Park game in LIKE NEW condition. Disc has no flaws. Selling from ORIGINAL owner. Has been kept stored safely and away from humidity. Must be sold all together. I’ve included extra game samplers and 3DO magazine discs at no extra cost. $900 CDN. Shipping is at your cost either through Canada Post (at regular rates) OR using my discount with UPS (much faster). Shipping quotes can be given for serious offers. Just message me your full address including zip/postal code when doing so.
  11. Hi everyone, Not sure if Redhawk666 is still active here, but I built his brilliant SMD s-video/composite board and installed in in my NTSC 600XL - and expanded his installation instructions to boot. Here's my fork of his project (I've opened a pull request, but not sure if he's actively looking at GitHub to merge my instructions). I've included an image and screenshot below - amazingly clear and interference-free picture that could easily be fed into an s-video-to-HDMI converter (my old monitor has an s-video input). I also had to order 5 boards from my supplier, but can only use one, so I'm wondering what to do with the other four? You really have to be adept at SMD soldering (and desoldering - haha), since the diode is SOD-323 (each pad is 0.4mm wide), but I'm thinking there may be people here who can build and use a board for their machine? Please let me know what you think of the guide, and if this is useful. Thanks, Andrew
  12. We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. It's available for free! but pick up only in the Chicago-land area (Algonquin, IL 60102) as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
  13. Hello, I hope you can help! I have installed an s-video mod board from here to my pal, black label Atari jr. When I boot a game the picture looks clean and bright for about 12 seconds, before turning very dim and losing colour. The game plays fine, and there is no issues with sound, just really dark after 12 seconds. So far I have checked all my soldering for continuity, pins 9 and 13 are lifted, the bottom of the mod board is taped, and there are no visual signs of bad capacitors (my initial thoughts). Any ideas what could be going wrong or what I should check next?
  14. I'm gauging interest for two new AV adapters I'm making due out sometime in November. I'd like to have a good idea for how many to make before launching, so I'm posting here. Each product page has a simple email signup form. if you're interested, please signup! The first is a simple S-Video, Stereo Audio, Composite video adapter. This adapter will only need the AV socket and will run $25 (plus shipping). https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagsvc-atari-jaguar-s-video-composite-video-adapter/ The second is an All-In-One Analog adapter with RGB (9-pin socket, Genesis Model 2 style), Stereo Audio, Composite, and S-Video. This adapter will require both Jag sockets, DSP for power, but will benefit from being able to work with the Rad2X without external power. No definitive price yet but tentative at $35 (plus shipping). Those looking to use a JagNet, JagLink, JagLink II can always pick up a Jag2GEN or the S-Video adapter, since both only use the AV socket. This adapter will have its sync line brought down to Genesis Model 2 levels so that Genesis Model 2 SCART cables wired for CSYNC will work as intended. https://www.humblebazooka.com/product/jagaioa-atari-jaguar-all-in-one-analog/
  15. Hi All After taking a break from Atari for a year or so, im happy to offer a new product to the community which may be of interest, Im pleased to offer a S-video card which i have designed and optimised for CRT monitors, which has excellent quality video compaired to Composite and of course standard TV/Coax. The card is compatible with both NTSC and PAL Ataris and comes pre-wired and with Full color instructions and fittings. Both 7800 and TIA output is catered for and there is an adjustment pot for quality can be adjusted to ensure best results for your monitor. I have listed the features/parts here: Features: * 7800 & 2600 TIA compatible * Works on PAL and NTSC units * Sound Filter * Onboard adjustment for sharpening results * Easy Install with Step-by-Step color photos (separate sections for both PAL and NTSC) Kit Includes: * S-Video Module card - pre-wired and color coded * 4 Pin S-Video DIn Socket (for fitting to side if desired) * RCA Socket - for Audio output * Link wires * Easy Install Instructions with colour photos showing step by step from start to Finish. As some new LCD monitors may vary, im pitching this to be used for CRT monitors as to both ensure compatibility and also to keep the original feel of the 7800. Some shots ive taken are: PAL - Xenophobe, Sirius, Choplifter NTSC - Intro screen, Winter Games, Plutos. Im sure you will agree that although composite is a good departure from standard TV, the quality that the 7800 can give out is worth the effort! Ive listed these on Ebay here for general release and what the cost/rates are. UK - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121596931289?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ROW - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-7800-S-Video-Card-PAL-NTSC-complete-with-parts-and-instructions-/121596931289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c4fbdecd9 Please let me know if you have any questions or feel free to PM me if you are interested but dont use ebay etc. Richard
  16. I have a really stupid/brilliant idea, basically I want to put a retrotink 2x mini inside an s-video modded Atari 2600 Vader. The idea is to keep the console bone stock looking, with the only visual difference being an HDMI cable instead of an RF cable coming out of the back. I should be able to get +5v off the 7805 to power the 2x, but have no doubt it will burn it out quickly if I do. Can someone recommend a dc/dc converter that is a drop in replacement for the 7805 regulator, preferably with a little extra available amperage? On a side note, can I just remove the RF modulator? It looks like a great place to mount the retrotink, but I don’t know if it’s tied into anything.
  17. I have a 7800 with a friend and he's having a helluva time finding a S-Video mod kit for my 7800. Are these available anywhere? To my knowledge it's still the easier way to get a really sharp picture out of a 7800. I haven't heard of anyone RGB modding or HDMI modding them....but maybe i'm out of the loop. There are an abundance of AV mod kits, but once you've seen that crisp clear S-Video picture on a CRT it's really a standard you try to maintain. Can anyone point me in the right direction, or are they just not being made currently? If so, what is the alternative or replacement or next mod/standard that has come along? Thanks so much for any insight on this predicament as the guy who modded my first 7800 (Electronic Sentimentalities) has since retired.
  18. Hey All. I've been working with a well known custom PCB maker from Sudomod (Minty Pi and Gameboy Zero stuff) named Helder Silva on developing my idea of an adapter that takes the Jag's AV port and converts it to the more common Nintendo Multiout. I chose the Multiout because it carries all the audio video signals needed for composite, s-video, and even RGB all in one port. I wanted to share some footage I took last night of me playing some Jag games with an HD Retrovision component cable upscaled through an OSSC using the final version of the adapter. I recorded this footage using a $20 capture device from Amazon so it's not the highest quality and it introduced lag, which you can see me struggle with in Alien vs Predator and Cybermorph but it get's the job done! What the JAG2SNES does: Converts the Jag's AV port to the more common Multiout port. Allows you to use SNES/N64/GameCube: Composite, S-Video, RGB Scart, and HD Retrovision (what I use) cables with your Jag. What this JAG2SNES doesn't do: Upscale. You'll need a scan converter like the OSSC, Framemeister, or GBS for that. If all goes well, it should go on sale sometime today for $25 USD (plus shipping) over at Helder's website and they'll be ready to ship immediately, no waiting list and no lead time to build. They are built. I will post to the buy, sell, trade forums once it's live.
  19. At the end of the last post I briefly mentioned you could create a Luma only cable and s-video for the Atari 8-bits. This works on any 8-bit where the Chroma & Luma are split out in the 5-pin DIN connector for the video & audio. There are some 8-bits that Atari elected NOT to separate out the Luma & Chroma unfortunately; 800XL made before August 1984, 1200XL and most 600XLs. All these computers had a single pin for just the composite connection only. There are ways to modify these computers to include chroma/luma but they all require modifying the motherboard in some form or fashion so I won't go into them here. Here is the video/audio pin-out for the Atari 8-bits. To create a luma only video cable for sharp B/W 80 column video on a composite monitor: pin 1 > video composite + on monitor pin 3 > audio + on monitor pin 2 > split to composite video - & audio - on monitor what you would do is swap the luma cable for the standard color video cable when you wanted that sharp 80 column look. This works on any un-modified Atari with the luma/chroma pins set on or modified Atari with the luma/chroma fix. If you are lucky enough to still have an s-video monitor you can create an s-video cable that can give you 80 column & color. s-video pinout. Again, you will need an Atari 8-bit where the luma & chroma pins are set on. To create an S-video cable: Atari pin1 > s-video pin 3 Atari pin 5 > s-video pin 4 Atari pin 2 > s-video pins 1 & 2 sound is separate line from Atari pin 3 & 2. If it turns out the 80-column text isn't quite sharp enough just attach Atari lines 1 & 2 which be just luma, no color. Now I haven't tested the luma only cable personally but I talked to people who have and it worked for them. As always, this is just my suggestion. I am in no way responsible for any damage you may do to your Atari. (I don't see how you could harm our Atari making these cables but where there's a will there's a way). There you have it. Have fun.
  20. We're moving and downsizing, and I can't justify a dedicated gaming television any more This TV has great picture and solid Stereo sound. Only stopped using it as our regular TV when cable went fully digital. Fantastic TV for using with classic consoles, can connect multiple ones to it. Swivel stand, includes working (generic) remote. Inputs include S-Video, composite and cable, and also has outputs for recording or capture and cable pass-through. Best offer $100 or up, pick up only in the Chicago-land area as shipping costs would be prohibitive. It's the perfect showcase for your classic games!
  21. This adapter was made to breakout the Atari Jaguar’s many video outputs to a more common and easily found set of cables the SNES Cables to allow you to play your classic games in better quality especially compared to the standard RF Audio/Video output. The RF output is very blurry and noisy out from the 90’s that is not a standard supported today. This adapter works great when paired with RGB Scart or HD Retrovision cables and run through a upscaler like the OSSC, RetroTink, or GBS! Features: Fits the back of the Jaguar without obstructing the Serial IO Link (DSP Port) Custom 3D enclosure designed by me Hand painted lettering on 3D enclosure to make it pop and match the Jaguar colors All SNES cables including official and 3rd party cables will work with this adapter Gold Plated contacts with a beveled edge for easy insertion of SNES Cables S-Video, Composite, RGB Scart, HD Retrovision Component cables all tested to work with the adapter Sync (C-Sync) has the proper filtering and attenuation to work with all upscalers Jaguar 9v regulated to 5v output for all proper RGB televisions and upscalers like the OSSC $25 USD + Shipping Purchase Here Demo video:
  22. Now accepting offers. 1 - REAL 3DO Panasonic player in excellent condition - it has the S-Video port too! 1 - original remote in excellent condition 1 - Ultra Rare 3DO game guru with game samples and original box in excellent condition 1 - Rare 3DO 6 button joypad in original box and like new condition 2 - Rare 3DO American Laser Game game guns only excellent condition 2 - ULTRA RARE 3DO Cheat Books in good to excellent condition. Perfect for the collector 1 - Theme Park game in LIKE NEW condition. Disc has no flaws. Selling from ORIGINAL owner. Has been kept stored safely and away from humidity. Must be sold all together. I’ve included extra game samplers and 3DO magazine discs at no extra cost. Shipping is at your cost either through Canada Post (at regular rates) OR using my discount with UPS (much faster). Shipping quotes can be given for serious offers. Just message me your full address including zip/postal code when doing so.
  23. Hi, do you have experience with Ambery S-Video to HDMI Converter Scaler (item#DVH3). I'm mainly concerned about the conversion lag, is it something to worry about ? I have tested their S-Video to VGA converter, I'm ok with the image quality but for the future use the HDMI seems to be better option. Thank you in advance. Best regards, Peter
  24. Links Website Notes Composite, S-Video, and RGB output Easy install if TIA is socketed Six different color palettes Supports NTSC and PAL Premade kit available 4 Switcher Installation Guide
  25. Links Website Forum Topic Notes Composite and S-Video output Video only. No audio output Premade kits available Plug n Play version available for revisions containing a CD4050 chip Keeps RF circuit intact. Can use RF in conjunction w/ Composite and S-Video to output to multiple TVs at the same time NTSC & PAL support
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