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My RGB SCART cable for my PS1 just arrived earlier today. I won't deny, the difference in clarity and overall quality of colors is immense. I think it is pretty understandable for us retro gamers to naturally hunt for the highest quality video output we can, or perhaps aim for an experience that accurately recaptures our childhoods. However, there is one key element that advocates for higher quality video cables almost never mention: dithering. Basically, it's that checkerboard-y pattern you see in the vast majority of PS1 games. If it's a 3D game, it will almost certainly have it; especially if the game in question has a darker color palette. The reason why the developers added dithering was to fake additional color depth that simply wasn't possible with the hardware otherwise. You know how certain games such as DOOM on PC have a very visible dark color gradient the farther the distance is from the player? That's called color banding. It's when the gradient of colors isn't smooth, and you can clearly see the color go from brighter to darker, and vice versa. A smooth gradient doesn't exhibit this, and it's one of the biggest advantages when working with a higher color depth. Again, this simply wasn't possible on the PlayStation's hardware. Some of you may be thinking "but wait a second, didn't the PS1 support 24-bit color?" and you'd be absolutely correct. A 24-bit color depth allows for 16.7 million possible different colors. However, it wasn't feasible for the hardware to calculate such a high color depth for fast 3D graphics. In reality, most games on the PS1 were actually 15-bit color in gameplay (32768 possible different colors), and 24-bit in still images (such as title screens). Sony was very aware of this technical limitation, so they included dithering as an option on the hardware to combat this — it was built-in. In turn, many developers used this to combat the otherwise extremely visible color banding that would be present. And this is where composite video comes in. Due to its nature, composite video will naturally blur two adjacent colors together. What this means is that the dithering pattern is far, far less noticeable when using a composite video cable. ESPECIALLY when paired with even the most basic consumer CRT. What you see instead is a very smooth gradient that will fool the human eye into thinking it is seeing more colors than it actually is. It's extremely clever. Of course, this has other affects as well. We all know that composite video is by no means known for it's clarity. As such, 2D elements tend to suffer, such as text. But on a CRT, it has the potential to look superb. While developers were often working with Sony PVM/BVM monitors that supported RGB, unless you lived in Europe, almost no one had access to RGB video. Sony and the developers knew this, so they took advantage of the limitations of composite video for the aforementioned reasons. It's a classic tale of genius engineers making the most out of limited hardware. To summarize: Composite video does a great job at hiding the arguably ugly dithering pattern present in almost every PS1 game It's far more accessible and easy to get a hold of for a reasonable price Many consumer CRTs support composite, making it easy to get into if you're just starting to get into retro gaming It's convenient As for me, would I switch back to composite now that I have an RGB cable? Well.... -
After many trial and errors I would like to share so far best Cable I did for myself. It is DIN5 --> SCART, for Stock XE models or XL with chroma/luma mod for s-video standard. Detail of READY prompt looks nice with signals going to grid exactly as it should and appear like dots on grid, basically pixels. So called DOUBLE or better INDIVIDUALLY shielded cable is a must. I did Cable for s-video 4 din standard and picture was good, but not so great as this SCART. Finished Cable length is 1.8M. Cable is wired into spirals around individual cores. Stock ATARI 800XE with this Cable Next step will be S.X.E to get rid of the some signal impurity.
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Hello, I've got an Atari 1040STE with a SCART cable going into my OSSC. Is there a way I can add a switch to this cable to enable high resolution monochrome video output? And if so, will this be safe to output to my OSSC, or will I need to modify it to make it a more standard signal? -
Hey All. I've been working with a well known custom PCB maker from Sudomod (Minty Pi and Gameboy Zero stuff) named Helder Silva on developing my idea of an adapter that takes the Jag's AV port and converts it to the more common Nintendo Multiout. I chose the Multiout because it carries all the audio video signals needed for composite, s-video, and even RGB all in one port. I wanted to share some footage I took last night of me playing some Jag games with an HD Retrovision component cable upscaled through an OSSC using the final version of the adapter. I recorded this footage using a $20 capture device from Amazon so it's not the highest quality and it introduced lag, which you can see me struggle with in Alien vs Predator and Cybermorph but it get's the job done! What the JAG2SNES does: Converts the Jag's AV port to the more common Multiout port. Allows you to use SNES/N64/GameCube: Composite, S-Video, RGB Scart, and HD Retrovision (what I use) cables with your Jag. What this JAG2SNES doesn't do: Upscale. You'll need a scan converter like the OSSC, Framemeister, or GBS for that. If all goes well, it should go on sale sometime today for $25 USD (plus shipping) over at Helder's website and they'll be ready to ship immediately, no waiting list and no lead time to build. They are built. I will post to the buy, sell, trade forums once it's live.
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Looking for an Atari 7800 with VGA, DVI or SCART output on the system. No S-Video, HDMI or AV. Already have an AV and HDMI system with these outputs.
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Hello, I am really close to capturing video on twitch. First let me say that the Hauppaugr Rocket, or anything Hauppauge, has a hacky way of dealing with Macintoshes. And the funny thing is I'm not using a Macintosh to broadcast the game because my cellular phone gets more data outbound than my home internet. Stream works for Android can only seem to capture the internal camera or the screenshot. So probably between and honesty Cam and the game footage, it's a possible to split the Android screen because only one external input is allowed. Luckily I'm doing decently on the Mac version of obs. I said it the way I want then full screen on a second monitor and send the second monitor to a capture card. When I first tried, I just a Hauppauge Rocket (which could capture, composite S-Video component and HDMI, and goes out to USB 2.0 and has a second HDMI output.) And at the easycap composite S-Video capture. The EZ cap works with the Android. I have on back order an easycap HDMI device. for everything except scart I got everything I need in theory to capture including a VCR for converting NTSC RF into composite plus Stereo (or mono in 2 speakers). However the Hauppauge seems kind of roundabout requiring extra steps and forcing lag, and using the home network which is draining the Wi-Fi device despite not receiving any data, because it requires a port to be tapped for it to work. So I should probably get at least one more easycap HDMI. I'll have to HDMI one for the Mac one for the Android, and a composite and S-Video capture. If I want to totally avoid Hauppauge, and just stick to easycap which works driverless on Macintosh and Android, I need some options for 3 setups. Two of them are related. Upstairs I would like a solution for ntsc RF. Let's just say I got a small 8 mm VCR, about half the width of a VHS machine at about significant but lesser depth and height cuts. And that VCR might be too big. plus one time it just spontaneously loads and loads and shuts off so I don't want to have to rely on this forever. any solution for a compact way to convert ntsc RF to something that I could use with a in my capture cards. I would prefer a direct to HDMI or one of the three Channel analogs, but composite is okay as a last resort. I have an interesting device that I originally bought when my CRT TV didn't have an S video plug. Back then I was trying to get my games to work and I didn't want to drop down to composite. I found this one device called a video to VGA adapter. Which has 3 video inputs, one of them VGA, the other two composite an S-Video. this is an active converter with a small push button interface and requires power to be used from an outside source. It also has a VGA output. Luckily I bought HDMI to VGA converters, hoping that the converter takes less than 1 millisecond to converts between HDMI and VGA,. if that's the case then I'll buy myself quite a bit of ping time compared to Native HDMI because I've never seen a CRT TV accept HDMI. I don't think any CRT TV has an HDMI interface. The best you could do is VGA. Also I came upon scart hookups for a few systems that supports cart, all for Sega machines, (includes both Genesis versions) and the Super NES are probably be all the systems that could be done without modding a system. Also I bought an S-Video / composite / RCA audio scart female scart male adapter. First away I heard you could test to see if the adapters for the consoles are truly skirt and not the jp21 adapters without risking frying and equipment is a plug the scart cable in one end and use that adapter to lead out composite if it plays on my TV that is correct if nothing happens good or bad then we know we got to jp21. also extract out the audio so that I can pipe it to the capture card without requiring separate audio outputs. Someone told me that RCA based RGB, scart based RGB, and VGA RGB are different expressions of the same language, meaning any one of them could understand any one of the other them with a passive adapter. Is that true? And I understand even though physically the same RCA Based ypbpr is a different language of color. I also bought a device, a mayflash VGA / ypbpr 2 way converter. I noticed it was both a VGA input and VGA output. How would I be able to tell if that video to VGA device could take a VGA input again assuming the 3-3 channel RGB forms are the same, and all use "regular TVs" which have a refresh rate of 15 kHZ, could I use at VGA to VGA adapter to effectively convert 15 kilohertz to hire kilohertz standards of VGA monitors? While I'm at it is there such a thing as either a VGA input for a Mac around 2012 and uses OS 10.12? Or would a VGA to HDMI converter be more acceptable? I guess if easycap makes VGA to USB adapters it would work. By the way sorry for giving a long laundry list,. All these don't have to be fulfilled. Assuming the video to VGA adapter does what it says,. All I really need is something for. NTSC RF that won't take up much, and something for VGA to my Mac, either a VGA to USB directly that's easycap compatible or VGA to HDMI adapter and use a second easycap HDMI for that. by the way my Mac Mini has a thunderbolt 1 adapter which I heard is the same speed as( just physically different) and adaptable to USB C 3.1? I do have a thunderbolt 3 to thunderbolt 2 cable and thunderbolt 2 is physically the same as thunderbolt 1. Just giving you another option to think about. Finally I understand for light gun games, I have to go downstairs and make one path as short as possible to the TV. And yes I understand VGA monitors cannot play light gun games or Sega Master System Sega scope games, but the pain level is like that of a VCR, enough to throw a light game off but nothing much beyond that in terms of ping time. So don't go using the RGB on the CRT TV because you have to translate it to ypbpr anyway and that's adding a VCR to the chain.
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Yes I was wondering how well do scart and VGA play well with each other? I've seen passive adapters that go to both or red green blue RCA not sure whether it's RGB fornat or YPbPr format. I did buy a mayflash VGA back and forth to YPbPr. If a connection between scart and VGA is pretty much passive then since I'm using a VGA monitor as a CRT, Then it should work for everything and have a short enough delay for everything except light gun games. Also I see both active and passive composites an S-Video connectors to VGA. And I do not know what is available on ntsc RF to VGA. These items on Amazon and eBay do not make it clear what the source of the video is and what the destination of the TV is. To and from could be a matter of perspective depending on which way you're starting from. I'm looking for taking S-video on Nintendo 64 and Atari Jaguar I'm putting it in the VGA TV. NES would use composite. Atari 7800 and earlier with ntsc RF. All the other systems I have either use scart RGB or ypbpr 3 RCA. So for S-Video and composite,. Do I want the active connector or the passive connector? Is there such a thing as Direct ntsc rf 2 VGA? If not I can make one extra step of tuning the ntsc using the smallest thing I could find with a tuner and 8 mm tape recorder and player with tuner built in.
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From the perspective of an Amercian, I heard there are 2 formats that the average American can not distinguish unless trained in the secret. They also unlock the most colorful pictures on SDTV. I also want to broadcast it on twitch. 1. What is the name of the oft-confused Japanese SCART-like standard? 2. How does an American, who usually never sees this standard, tell the difference visual, it do you have to go on blind faith? 3. Is there some sort of EU/JPN tester that can answer that impericalky? 4. If some converter between these standards, and is it a 2 was devicez must are there 2 different ones, one for each way? 5. Someone told me a voltage pin was different? First can one physically both types in the same hole? If one does the fit, but uses the wrong standard, are the consequences benign (see there's no picture and quit, or use adapter) or severe (one such misplug will permanently ruin your system) ? 6. If I have NTSC RF, composite, S-Video, component and HDMI ins, and require 1 HDMI our and One VGA out, what is the best was to deal with SCART to guarantee it works and have minimal delay on the VGA path? 7. Is it better to convert the non SCARTs to HDMI first THEN to VGA, or the other way? -
SOLD SOLD SOLD So I bought this SCART switcher about 2 to 3 weeks ago and it works great, looks great also. but today I just bought system #6. This is the Hydra Mini 5 port SCART switcher - 5 Port. I need 6 now! So I am offering it for sale 100$ plus shipping. You get a 5 input / 1 output SCART switch that will auto select the unit that is powered on, I will also include a power adapter (it does not come with one normally) Retail is 117$ and 14$ for power adapter, I dont remember what I paid for shipping as it comes from Poland. no cables included as I am just upgrading to the 8 port model
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From the album: CatPixtures
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From the album: CatPixtures
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Hey all, I have had a few threads here on my retro consoles that I am trying to setup. I was about to stick with US standard of S-video with everything possible but, as I am leaning towards a Framemeister for my setup, this opens the door to RGB and can upscale/line double up to 480p over HDMI, this is claimed to be one of the best pictures you can get from Retro consoles. This thread is not for comparing the Framemeister vs. the OSSC. I still will have some consoles that have S-video and will leave them like that for reasons. The OSSC cant do S-video with out a converter of some type, that I don't want to deal with. So the Framemeister looks like my winner here. This brings up another issue. SCART switching. It's been a long quest for a lot of people. For 8 or more, you only have a few options and the price seems to sky rocket from there. If I am going this route, I need to go all in, as much as possible within affordable range (not going tp spend $400+ for switching). My setup is going to contain 20 retro consoles from the Wii back. HDMI devices will be treated differently (and thinking about starting a YouTube channel on this subject). This could have more than 8 RGB type consoles. Also if S-video and Composite is treated natively with SCART (as I have read) with no conversion, running the switch into a SCART port on the switch could simplify things a little. What I would like is Auto switching but, would love and PREFER a IR override with it. IR gives me what I really want is to force control the change in a automated setup via remote. Something I really want and pretty much need. So looking for options... and see what others are using. This is the larger ones I have found... gRetrostuf - gscartsw 8:2 about $220.. http://www.gretrostuff.com/store/gscartsw/ Over all good quality from reviews. No IR control but, auto should do. Can be daisy chained but, to get 15, it's going to cost $440+ shipping. Big cost. Lotharek - Hydra series. https://lotharek.pl/products.php?id=35 A selection of sizes... 8 to 16 (OMG !) switchers.. Kind of eyeing the W-Hydra 2. It's 16:2 that does everything. INCLUDING IR control (something that seems hard to find). Price is not too crazy compared to other options 999.00 PLN or about $264.43 US. A little pricey but, for what it offers, I don't know of anything else that could fill the bill. I don't know much about this W-Hydra 2, anyone use their series of switches ? Any good or bad on them ? What are others using ? Anyone using MORE than 8 devices that can do SCART ? This is the type of thing I am losing sleep over so I wanted to start a MODERN discussion on options or MODERN switchers..
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Help me pay off debt sale (or contribute to a nice little MAME machine) Here's the following I have for sale: Sega Saturn (model 1) 2 Controllers Sega brand (has been fixed with electrical tape) High Frequency brand 2 Games: Virtua Fighter Remix Alien Trilogy (jewel case) A/V set Composite and s-video cable Scart Cable Power Cord Saturn.mp4 Asking $95 shipped Feel free to PM me with any questions or suggestions.
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Just a quick question. Were all official Jaguar RGB scart leads built like mine? Unlike the other scart leads I have for other consoles, this one has no way of preventing the connector being pushed back into the case. The lead itself works great with a fantastic crisp picture. It's just that when you plug it into a scart socket it often pushes into the case. I've sold off my Jaguar collection, the console with a Retro Gaming Cables RGB scart. I'm selling this one, but I want my description in my listing to state whether it is a common problem or not. Thanks
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Wanted to get a head start on seeing what other Geneve users would like to see for packages offered for the SCART-Genie.
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Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use. -
Analogue Nt Mini cable for SCART-Euroconector use. -
This cable lets you connect a TV set with a RGB capable scart input to the PC VGA output. It is necessary to set the PC video card to output a 15.6kHz 50/60 Hz signal so that line and frame refresh frequencies are TV/Arcade monitor compatible as explained in the Introduction.© http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/cables-en.html
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Hey guys! I want a Sega Saturn. It has to be a model 1. There aren't many stores here that sell retro gaming things. I'm not too concerned about the glossy black finish. That's okay. I don't, however, want a system with DEEP scratches or broken pieces off of it. On Hold Back up and still looking and waiting. Found!
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From the album: Intellivision RGB Mod
Schematic for 8 pin Mini-DIN to SCART. -
Hi all, I've been lurking a while to reading advice, but am a first time poster. I've just got my Atari 2600 and am so excited because I get to re-live all the memories I had as a child when I used to have one. I've read many of the forums on connecting it up but not 100% sure on the solution so would like to check something before going ahead. My problem comes with my TV. This particular TV does NOT have a F-type Coax input connector or component/composite input. It only has a non-screw coax out, HDMI, USB, SCART and the connection for the TV Aerial which I think you call RF input. This is the TV http://direct.asda.com/george/home-garden/tvs-brackets/polaroid-42-led-hd-tv-series-1/000554128,default,pd.html I have plugged the RCA from the Atari directly into the TV RF input. I get a good picture and it all works but I get no sound, just loud white noise. I understand that this is because the RF inputs can't handle both so I need another option. Looking at Switchboxes etc they still seem to have the F-type screw in for the Coax input so that's no good. So the only option I can think of is this: Can I plug the Atari RCA into a second hand VCR's aerial input and then use the scart from the VCR to the TV? Would that work? There may be a gadget or something else you may suggest but I don't understand the RF Modulator/demodulator thing. Is that an option and if so can someone point me in the right direction to the right one to buy? I assume it would go from RCA to HDMI or does that not work? Any advice would be more than welcome and hopefully once I am up and running I look forward to chatting about playing the Atari again for the first time in 30+ years. Many thanks. Tec.
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Projects - VGA to SCART Converter - [2] http://www.nexusuk.org/projects/vga2scart/voltage_from_vsync/view -
I know it's been asked on here before but I have some other specifics that I would like to know for the Amstrad GX4000. First off I live in the U.S. and dont have a TV compatible with SCART. I use an Atlona PAL to NTSC converter that I use to display PAL games on my NTSC AMIGA CD32. I was looking at maybe getting a SCART to S-Video cable like this one https://www.amazon.com/MonsterVideo3-SCART-Stereo-S-Video-Adapter/dp/B0000D8CIC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481618378&sr=8-6&keywords=scart+to+s-video and I know I will need a step up converter too. I haven't really looked at one specifically but do you guys think a 300 watt one will work? and If so, will I be all set with this stuff? Thank you
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Hi everyone. (Long-time reader, first-time poster!) I've recently got my Jaguar set up after many years of sleeping in the loft (the Jag, not me). I'm using one of these SCART-to-HDMI upscalers. Overall, I'm pretty happy. Picture quality is decent, and Tempest 2000 sounds phenomenal through a 7.1 sound system that was the stuff of a mad-man's dreams back when it was released. However, I've just noticed that the image from the upscaler is offset down and left by about 3cm, resulting in cropping on the bottom and right edges, and a black border on the top and left. I'm guessing this is the upscaler's fault and not the Jag's, but I'm not certain (and I've got no other RGB-SCART sources to test with). Just wondering if anyone's seen something similar and (maybe) had a fix? Cheers, Chris
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Hey, all. First post on AA. I'm trying to get the best picture from my PS2 on a Sharp 27SF56B 27" flatpanel CRT. I'm currently using a PS2/PS3 component cable, but RetroRGB recommends SCART over component for 240p/480i displays. My questions are: if I use a SCART cable from the PS2, won't I just have to convert it back to component for the TV input? Will throwing the SCART in the mix really make that much of a difference on a CRT? I get the impression that the RetroRGB guys are mainly trying to optimize for HD displays, but I prefer a more "traditional" experience. Any help here would be appreciated.
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