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Hey everyone! Looking to start selling off some of the huge haul I got earlier this month. For starters, I have two working and tested ST computers: 1x 1040 STe - 380 CAD (SOLD) 1x Mega ST 4 - 650 CAD (can negotiate) I can possibly include an Atari mouse with the Mega ST 4 Both computers are working just fine, even the floppy drives are working good! I'm located in Toronto, Canada. I'm willing to ship, or meet-up in person I will have 2 Falcons, a Mega STe, and 2 more 1040 STe computers for sale soon, so feel free to contact me about those too!
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My fingers are still shaking as I type this, my cheeks are flush and numb, and I still wonder if I'm in a dream. Just today, the best deal I've ever gotten in my life showed up online. A huge stack of rare Atari ST computers from a retired computer repair guy. The moment the seller replied to me with his address, I was calling an uber and heading out to meet him. Tsunamis of adrenaline were crashing across my body during the long ride to meet him. It all worked out though, and I'm beyond elated! As the AVGN said in his Swordquest video "Not since the medieval times have I heard of a treasure of this scale!" I got: 4 Atari Falcons (1 being an MK1?) 2 Mega STe computers 3 1040 STe computers 1 Mega 4 ST computer. 4 Atari ST mice 2 Atari Mega ST keyboards 1 Mega STe/TT keyboard And various cords. How much did I pay for it all? 600 Canadian!
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The STE has two extra joystick ports on the side. These are labeled as 'A' and 'B' and are female ports whereas the primary mouse/joystick and joystick ports under the STE are male ports. How does one use the two extra joystick ports on the STE? Do you just need an adapter to reverse the port gender and otherwise use standard joysticks? Are these ports transparently supported by games? If you have joysticks in these ports do they replace joystick ports 0 and 1 or do they allow for a total of 4 joysticks? Any other uses for these two extra ports? The dual mouse/joystick port 0 and joystick port 1 under the STE.
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Atari SLMC804 Laser Printer controller I believe this is new in the box. Box shows some storage signs, but generally pretty good. I'm in the UK. £50, plus buyer pays shipping fees.
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hello! After I'm done with ICT4 on the lynx, I wanted to make an ICT for the STE. But then I thought, "Hmmm, how about a 3d ICT on the STE?" I've seen STNICCC 2000 but after seeing much better ports to other systems (Heck, even the new origonal ST version is BETTER than the STE) Of course it would work on the TT and Falcon (And change the graphics/sound to suit) as well. Yeah, I know, it's not an ICT thread but the ICT series is kinda-my thing if it wasn't already obvious. (Heck, my old logo WAS the Conner Character) So, just a question: How good is the STE at 3d graphics? How good is the TT and Falcon for that matter? Thanks guys. (And if it does get a 3d ICT then it will get a 2d one as well.)
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Hello, I have just released an ALPHA version of my little summer project : a breakout style game written in assembly 68k for the Atari STE. This alpha release may work on other STs as I do not use the blitter and the DMA sound yet. It is functionnaly complete (no menu screen, only the game that start over after 3 balls) and is played with a joystick. Press any key on the keyboard to quit. The link above to the release give access to the prg file. The project page is there : https://github.com/sporniket/sporny-wrecking-ball Regards, and have fun. -
Hi guys! I and my friend decided to bring something new to you. The joystick. But we need some feedback before it. Description: We decided to find out a way how to make new Atari Joysticks and similar joysticks with 3D printer. We try to have as similar as possible construction for the same impression of playing games like the original old joysticks. But we have one thing in our construction different. Our Stick will be exchangeable and modulable. We will have more types of sticks and you can choose what type you want. Sticks will have different shape, size etc. Our questions are: 1) Is this idea interesting for you? 2) Are you looking for some new joystick because your old was damaged? 3) What types of sticks do you prefer? What joysticks do you like? What was your favourite joystick in 80/90's? ( CX40, QuickShot etc. ) 4) Would you like exchangeable stick at your joystick ( when you will get tired of the old type of stick you can simply change it for another one ) or you'd rather buy another new joystick when you want to exchange the stick? 5) Is the autofire function important for you? 6) How long stick movement do you prefer? ( short movement is like pressing a small button, long movement is like pressing a key on your keyboard ) 7) Do you like an idea that you can buy only the 3D data for your 3D printer and make it for your own? 8) Do you have some tips why this idea doesn't make sense? For example you can buy really new QuickShot on Ebay etc. Progress: Thank you for your time, sharing and answers! Best regards, EnJoyStick Team
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I’m giving a 1040 STE Some TLC. 1) What version of TOS do I have (pictures) and what’s the best version to upgrade to? A version that handles years 2000+ would be nice. 2) She has only 1MB (pictures) where are good sources to purchase 4MB (4x 1M Simms)? And what specs/speeds are best? Existing TOS Existing 1MB of memory
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Hello, I have got Atari 520 STe which is out of order. 1. I connected this computer to a TV set with use of STe's monitor output (only composite and GND signals are used). 2. For testing purpose and better accessibility to the motherboard, the keyboard and the floppy are unattached. 3. After power turned on, it is visible white screen on the TV (no bombs, only white screen). 4. After pressing Reset button, for a short time it is possible to see white horizontal stripes (whole screen filled with white/black stripes) on the TV set. After a short time, screen becomes black, and then dark-green horizontal stripes appear. After releasing Reset button, the screen becomes white again. 5. I checked in a few motherboard's points that there is +5 VDC. Also, PSU gives +12 VDC. *** CPU MC68000 6. There is 8 MHz square wave on CPU's CLK pin. 7. BERR pin is set (+5 VDC) all the time. There are no low signal pulses (0 VDC) events on BERR when Reset button is pressed nor released -- BERR pin is set all the time. 8. There is square wave 800 kHz (duty 50%) on E pin. 9. Normally, RESET pin is set (+5 VDC) all the time. When Reset button is pressed, then RESET pin goes low (0 VDC). After releasing Reset button, RESET pin goes high (+5 VDC). 10. HALT pin is in low state (0 VDC). After pressing and then releasing Reset button, three pulses on HALT pin are visible. * Please refer to the picture in attachment - pin HALT. 11. Normally, A (address bus) and D (data bus) pins are set (+5 VDC). 12. After pressing and then releasing Reset button, on at least a few of A pins we can observe pulses. * Please refer to the picture in attachment - pin A9. 13. After pressing and then releasing Reset button, on at least a few of D pins we can observe pulses. * Please refer to two pictures in attachment - pin D12. * Please refer to two pictures in attachment - pins D12 and HALT. 14. The CPU is quite hot. It is possible to touch it for 7-10 seconds, but after this time the pain was too strong to keep it touching. *** GST MCU 15. There is GST MCU type C302183-001. There is 16 MHz square wave on CLK16 pin. There are 8 MHz on CLK8 pin, 4 MHz on CLK4, 2 MHz on CLK2, and 0,5 MHz on CLK0,5. 16. BERR pin is set (+5 VDC). I would be glad, if you could tell me what to check next in order to make my computer working. Thanks in advance for a reply. tr1x Ostatnio edytowany przez tr1x (Dzisiaj 14:50:36) A9.png 13.83 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12(1).png 14.01 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12(2).png 14.4 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12_HALT(2).png 9.66 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. D12_HALT.png 17.49 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. HALT.png 14.19 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. IMG_9823.jpg 727.91 kb, nikt jeszcze nie pobierał tego pliku. Tylko zalogowani mogą pobierać załączniki.
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Disk/Manual Bundles for the 16/32 bit lines
Slipqueue posted a topic in Atari ST/TT/Falcon Computers
Happy 4th to my fellow Americans here. Happy Thursday to all else. I've mentioned elsewhere that I came across a large lot of Atari hardware/software/etc. and in this are a bunch of manuals and system/language disks that I'd like to re-bundle as correctly as possible. However, due to the somewhat generic (to my eye, anyway) way Atari labeled some of these disks, I'm not able to make a guess as to what they came with. Is there a site somewhere that lists the bundles of manuals and software that came with each line of ST/TT/Falcon systems? I've done different searches online, but maybe I'm just not creative enough to figure out what might work best. Thanks! Greg -
Just putting feelers out to see if anyone is considering selling their Mega STe in the near future. I don't haggle, so please don't; ask me to make an offer. Pricing is the sellers job, so name your best price and I'll either accept it or not - without the endless and annoying back and forths to get there. Already have Atari monitors and and mice, so just looking for the base unit and a keyboard. Shipping will be to Canada, so you must be willing to ship across the border. To save duty and taxes (USMCA who?), preference will be given to Canadian sellers. To save 220 to 120 conversion, no European units please.
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Hello all! I'm looking for an Atari STE: either a 520, 1040, or Mega. I'd need it in excellent working condition, except for the floppy drive (and, in the case of the Mega, the hard drive), which I can replace using parts from other systems that I have. (Physical condition isn't as important to me, so we can talk about that ) I'd prefer a U.S. system, but I might also consider a U.K. system. I'll also consider other regions, if I can easily swap in a U.S. or U.K. TOS. (In the case of the Mega, a corresponding keyboard would be a bonus, but is not required.) Must be willing to ship to the U.S. (specifically, zip code 65721), since that's where I'm at If anyone's interested, feel free to post in here, or send me a PM. Thanks!
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Just curious. Anyone using EmuTOS on EPROM on real hardware? Sounds like quite a project. I watched some videos of it in action on YouTube. The only concern I could see was that DRI's GEM icons are not exactly attractive compared to the Atari's versions we're all familiar with.
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I just got an Atari Mega STe, but it lacks a keyboard. So.. I need one. Mega ST or Mega STe doesn't matter as long at it's in uk, us or norwegian layout. I'm not too found of QWERZ and in particular not AZERTY, so unless a spare keyboard with the right keycaps is available that's not interesting.
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From the album: RetroElectroDad Computer Collection
Atari 520STE upgraded to 4MB RAM.© Trevor Briscoe
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Hi there guys, so after talking to some of my friends about the problems with my 1040 STe, we wernt able to figure out whats wrong, so they suggested that I post on here and see if anybody can help me. Basically, almost every game I try to load either gives me a black screen after the main screen or it shows bombs or goes red and freezes. Ive only owned my owned my Atari 1040 STe for about 5 month and Ive only gotten some games for it in the last 2 weeks, so I dont have much of history with it. Here are a couple videos I uploaded to youtube that can probably show you better than I can describe. https://youtu.be/Nj1wB4KnbUg https://youtu.be/76pGk_AkMAI Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated, thanks!
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Frustrated that items that are no longer available retail, are still protected by intellectual property rights, but the simple fact is I can't get any of the "dubious origin" versions of these two games to run correctly on real iron. So I'm looking to buy them from someone who was lucky enough to have them from when they WERE available. Local (Toronto Canada) is always better, but happy to pay for shipping to get these two. (and years of collection vintage tech has made me keely aware of shipping costs, so I'll suffer no sticker shock)
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I bought a GBS8200 upscaler to connect my STE to an LCD display. When it didn't work as planned, I started researching and found that STE's lack a clock signal on pin 2 of the monitor port. I'm trying to determine how to get that signal presented, and level of difficulty. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thanks Wade -
Hi all, looking to buy an STE, STFM or STF, prefer 1 meg.... anyone selling? Can pay immediately, US preferred... Thanks!!
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Just picked up an STE and I've read that some early models had defective DMA chips. Is there a way to test in my DMA chip is defective in my STE?? thanks! -
So I dug the 520 STE (4MB / TOS 1.62) out of storage recently, along with my external SCSI drive. The drive is a Seagate ST32155N "Hawk". Now, it's probably been about 20 years since I've worked with SCSI drives. Back in the '90s I had plenty of them, set them up, configured them, etc. Used them with the STE, Falcon, and Ensoniq sampler. But, some of the arcane details have escaped me at this point. Hopefully someone here has better memory recollection on these than I do at the moment... So... the drive powers up, and spins up, and the head un-parks, and moves into place. The activity LED goes out at this point, so I know the drive is ready. However... the drive will only do this when nothing is attached. The external case has two standard SCSI ports on the back. If I put a terminator plug into either port, the drive will power on, but won't spin up / mount. If I plug the ICD Link into either port, same thing - power but no spin-up / mount. This is with the STE off. Turning on the STE doesn't change the behavior either. It will just boot from floppy and not see the hard drive. If I plug just a SCSI cable into either port (or both), the drive spins up and mounts as it should. So I'm guessing this is a termination issue, but I can't for the life of my remember how I had things setup back then, other than I had a SyQuest EZ-135 and a CD ROM drive in the chain, maybe a scanner too. Hard to remember, because a lot of this stuff (including another cased hard drive I have) was later used with my Falcon. But from what I can remember, I don't think ANY of the drives were internally terminated, and parity was disabled. Any ideas?
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I wanted to add a post here with regards to installing the STE 32Mhz booster by exxos, as although it's already on Facebook, if you're not a group member, you wouldn't see it. So, here goes The tools. I used a fairly standard set of small side cutters, temp controlled soldering iron, small forceps (For removing the old PLCC pins), flux, desolder braid, plastic levers (iPhone screen removal tools) and a large eraser. More on that later. One thing that isn't visible is the illuminated hands free magnifer, which is essential for the fine soldering. Total work time for this was about 4-5 hours for me, bearing in mind the TOS switcher had already been installed, and I had already preassembled the booster. Personally, I'd do the TOS switcher first and make sure it works before you move on to the booster. Starting PLCC removal using the pin method suggested by exxos in his instructions(http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/removal/index.htm). It works, so use it. All pins lifted. Again, the instructions from exxos worked up to this point. I tried lifting the socket after snipping the leads, but no movement at all. Since the socket wouldn't lift, I decided to cut it into smaller pieces as per exxos. This is the first 'Gotcha' for me. The socket didn't cut into smaller chunks, it disintergated into small pieces leaving this very tough baseplate behind. This is where you MUST use plastic tools, or you'll destroy the tracks on your mainboard. This is where the 2 blue plastic levers came in. I had to trim the pins a second time, then work my way around the edge with the levers to lift the baseplate. It's desolderin time!! Baseplate off, pins ready to desolder. Follow the instructions by exxos for this part. TIP:- I used small forceps with serrated jaws for manipulating the pins, as they were easier to handle than the needle nosed pliers I own, which lost grip as the jaws were not serrated. exxos has already mentioned the "Gotcha" around the power pins, take your time, they do take longer to desolder. This shot is all pins removed, but solder is still present in the thru holes. Again, the PLCC removal guide by exxos is good up to here. TIP:- TAKE YOUR TIME, rushing will just hurt your chances of a good job. My next TIP comes here, cleaning the solder from the thru holes. I used 1.5 mm solder wick, and rather than put flux on the board, my flux was quite thin, so I DIPPED the wick into the flux. Get your soldering iron right in the middle of the hole, and on top of the wick. Be paitient, it takes a second or two, but the solder will melt, and the flux in the wick will help it flow, and you'll see the wick turn silver. Don't be tempted to re use wick, it won't work, just regularly trim the used parts away and discard. TIP:- if a hole doesn't clear of solder right away, move on so that you are not constantly heating the same part of the board, which can damage the tracks and vias. All cleaned up! I had a few holes that half cleared, the TIP here is to refill the holes with fresh solder, then use the wick again to empty them. Hold the board up to the light to confirm they're clear. After trimming the pin strips, I dropped them in to the mainboard as a trial run. TIP:- Here is where the eraser comes in.Put 2 of the inner pin strips into the booster board, then push the whole thing into the eraser, making sure the pins are well aligned. Solder the 2 end pins of each strip. Repeat until all of the pin strips are held in by just 2 solder joints at each end, as this will give you a little wiggle of the pins so you can get them into the mainboard. Insert the booster, and hold it in place with tape or blu-tac, and solder just 4 of the outside row of pins at the ends. TIP:- good alignment is critical here, before you move on to soldering the rest of the pins, so just soldering a few will give you a chance to wiggle things around. When you're happy it's all in a good position, solder the rest of the pins on the mainboard side, then the rest on the booster side. All soldered in, awaiting final wiring. All wiring completed, with a switch for 8/32 Mhz and Tos 1.62/2.06. Just need to mod the case for the switches. Just to the left of the yellow clip, you can see the 1.44 Mb fdd mod, also from exxos, that I installed at an earlier date. Booted up to TOS 1.62 at 32Mhz. Booted up to TOS 2.06 at 32Mhz. Now this is completed, I'll need to get some benchmarks run, and I've had some requests to run certain games/programs at 32Mhz to see just what the difference is. I'll post more on that when I have time, and when my floppy drive is fixed and working again Thanks to exxos (Chris Swinson) for all the support, and the time, effort and money he puts into developing these awesome upgrades. His guide can be found here: http://www.exxoshost.co.uk/atari/last/V1STE/
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Hello fellow atarians! I have a problem with my atari STe. As the title says when I turn it on it gets a weird screen like so: Here are the specs and what I've done so far: - Atari 1040STe, 4mb memory, hxc floppy emulator - Strange rev board: - No visual damage to the board/components - 4 mb memory upgrade (tried multiple different simm's in different combinations and tried these on a other ste & worked) - Replaced shifter chip (facebook ste group came up with that one, didn't work unfortunatly) - Pushed all the chips in their sockets - Also tried working floppy drive with floppies. - Hold the reset button for 10 seconds when turning on. - Video: 13pin din to composite cable - Video: RF via TV - Video: 13pin din to scart - All gave the same result, see this short video: https://vid.me/e/UxCW - Pressing keys on the keyboard give the typical beep sound so sound works I guess? - Hxc floppy emulator works great on other atari's, on this one it doesn't seem to load much. See this short video (beep = st cold reset): https://vid.me/e/dojE - Tried a different, known working, PSU still same result. - TOS roms are soldered (so no socket's damnit, I have 2.06 roms laying here though but too scared to solder and fecking the board up) Even after all that, I can't figure out what's wrong. I have ordered a HI-res din to vga cable to test out if the ste is maybe stuck in HI-res mode or something. (read it somewhere, can't remember). Warning, I don't have much hardware knowledge (so pls not too much jargon) and I don't have precise soldering skills and money ( ) Is there anyone here who might have any idea what it might be?
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Hi, I have 5 of these beauties for sale. Brand new and unused original old new Atari stock. This metal badge fits in the top part of the Atari STE case. Item will be send securely to ensure it is not bent. Just remove the old badge, clean off any old residue, peel off backing from rear of new badge and attach in place of old badge. £20 each plus P&P. UK P&P = £1.90 Europe P&P = £3.90 USA/Russia/Asia = £4.90
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Hey guys, I know that this poor horse has been beaten to death on the forums but i need some advice. I have an Atari 1040STe with 4mb memory upgrade. I have a spare LG 27" TV thats sits nicely next to my iMac. My plan is to use the TV for both low/medium and high res via din->scart and din->VGA for the Atari, as well as a secondary monitor for my iMac via HDMI. The problem is the quality of the picture of the Atari. When i view it via the Din->Scart cable in low or medium resolution the screen seems to jump every few seconds, apart from this the picture is good, however, this screen jumping makes playing games impossible When i view the atari in hi res via din->VGA, i get very slight constant flickering. When i plug the Atari into my cheap VGA monitor i don't get anywhere near as much flickering. Not sure if this may be a cause of the problem but, I should mention both the din->vga and din->scart cables have stereo audio breakouts as the rca audio out ports on the machine seem to be playing up (seems the output is way too hot and the volume doesn't match L + R, but i'm going to look into this once I've sorted the screen thing.) So to summarise; plug in via scart i get occasional screen jumping, and plug in via vga i get slight flickering. What do you guys reckon? Thanks so much!
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