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Blogs

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  • creeping insanity
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  • Syntax Terror Games
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  • That's what she said.
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  • The (hopefully) weekly rant
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  • Guru Meditation
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  • Tezz's projects blog
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  • ¡Viva Atari!
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  • Joey Z's Atari Projects
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  • BubsyFan101 n CO's Pile Of Game Picks
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  • Cleaning up my 2600
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  • HLO projects
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  1. Last year, I did an internal installation of an Atarivox+ in my 7800. The goals were to have the Atarivox' audio mixed with the console's audio, and to also have a way to turn off the Atarivox if it was interfering with controllers. Both of these were to be accomplished without cutting or drilling the console's case. In the end, it worked out really well, and it's now weird to me whenever I see a 7800 come up from cold and don't hear the, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," greeting at power-on. Where this was especially evident, however, was on my 2600 Jr. The lack of speech and savekey support in certain titles was becoming more and more noticeable by its absence compared to the 7800, so wanting to install an Atarivox in it started to sound increasingly appealing. The only real question was, "will it fit?" There's a lot less room inside of a 2600 Jr. than a 7800 - a lot less. So an Atarivox+ was ordered and the measuring got underway. There were two main goals being shot for: one, find out if it was even possible to physically fit the Atarivox+ in a 2600 Jr. case; two, replicate all of the functionality of the 7800 installation in the Jr. The modifications that this Jr. already had were a UAV, Traco 2-2450 DC-DC converter, and the ribbon cable for the Reset and Select buttons had been replaced with wires and DuPont connectors. Significant modification to the Atarivox+ PCB was also required, and I'd recommend reading through all of this before committing to a course of action. There's plenty of room to screw things up (ask me how I know) even if there's not a lot of elbow room for the installation itself. Please note that the photos in this post are showing what is essentially a Version 1.0 installation - there was a lot that had to be figured out as I went, and there is room for improvement in certain areas. Having said that, suggestions for improvements are certainly welcome Moving on, there are three main components that will be needed: One AtariVox+ Speech Synthesizer One Adafruit 4-channel I2C-safe Bi-directional Logic Level Converter - BSS138 One Miniature Capacitive Touch Switch (these are apparently only sold in pairs; I've yet to see single ones for sale) And, in addition to those, the usual gamut of wires (with DuPont connectors), straight and right-angled 2.54mm pin headers, a pair of 10kΩ resistors, solder, a soldering iron, electrical tape, double-sided tape, etc. Starting off with the capacitive power switch: this was adhered to the underside of the upper case with a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape; placement was between the Reset button and outer wall of the case. It receives +5VDC (red wire) and GND (black wire) from the mainboard and switches +5VDC over the orange wire. Tapping on the case to the right of the Reset button turns the Atarivox off. While it can be turned back on using this method, it's better to power-cycle the machine so that everything comes up in a known state. +5VDC power was taken from TP1, located just below and to the right of the RF output jack; a right-angled pin header was soldered into it. GND was provided from a pair of pads located on the mainboard next to the RF modulator shield. Note that the shield does not have to come off to access them - they're between the shield and edge of the board. Four are located in a small, square cluster, and two right-angled pin headers were installed; the second pin header will be needed later on. One word about the switch: there are jumpers on it that can be changed in order to alter its behaviour. It is strongly recommended against doing this. As it comes out of the box, the jumpers are already set correctly, and changing them may potentially damage the switch, 2600 Jr., or other components. Additionally, the layer of double-sided tape used to hold it in place does not interfere with the ability of the switch to sense a tap - if anything, it cuts the natural sensitivity of the switch down slightly to a more usable level. Moving on to the BSS138 board (Adafruit Level Shifter): This board is used to both power the Atarivox on and off as well as enable or disable the signal lines running from the console's right joystick port to the Atarivox. Vertical pin headers were installed in both rows, with a cut-down pin header bridging the contacts on the underside of the board for the pads marked 'HV' and 'LV'. The same wiring colour scheme was used here for both sides of the board: white, grey, green, and yellow were soldered to pins 1 through 4, respectively, of the right joystick port and connected to the corresponding pins on the HV side of the board; GND was taken from one of the previously-mentioned pads next to the RF modulator while switched +5VDC (orange wire) was connected to the pin marked 'HV' on the PCB. On the LV side of the PCB, the corresponding wires were soldered directly to the same-numbered pins on the Atarivox where the controller jack had been removed. Switched power (the pin marked 'LV') was soldered to pin 8 on the Atarivox; GND was attached to pin 7. Again, a single layer of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape was used to adhere the Adafruit Level Shifter to the Junior's PCB. And now for the modifications to the Atarivox+ board: In order to make the Atarivox fit in the space above the RF modulator, a number of modifications were performed to it: The controller jack was removed On either side of the controller jack, the remaining anchor points for the jack were cut away with a Dremel along the white lines outlining the footprints of the anchor points The headphone jack was removed; with this and the controller jack gone, about 15mm of overall length was shaved off. Be careful when removing this one - if it's surface-mounted it'll want to take traces with it Note the white wire coming off of the board from the right side of C1. This is the audio output, and is attached to the most easily-worked location to pick final audio off from Wires with female DuPont connectors on the far end were soldered directly to the PCB in the location where the controller jack had previously been located; this was to keep the height of the installation at a manageable level The controller jack wires were separated into two bundles: one for pins 1-4 (Atarivox data; white, grey, green, and yellow, respectively) and one for pins 7 & 8 (ground (black) and switched power (orange), respectively). Two layers of Gorilla Tough and Clear mounting tape were used to hold it in place, one on the empty space on the 2600 Jr.'s PCB and one completely covering the back of the Atarivox' PCB. This provided both insulation from live components as well as enough clearance to fit the Atarivox just barely over and above them without running into clearance issues with the underside of the top shell. If you are planning on keeping the RF shields in place, it's strongly recommended to put a layer of electrical tape over any shield surfaces that might come into contact with the additional hardware. This essentially means the face of the shield over the RF modulator facing the rear of the console, and the entire rear-facing part of the main RF shield. There's also one side of the main shield that meets the modulator shield at a right angle; that one should be taped over as well. Finally, here's a bird's-eye view of the almost-completed installation: The white audio output wire coming off of the Atarivox from C1 can be seen looping out of the right-hand side of the frame, coming back into view just below the RF modulator. On the section just below the RF modulator, there's a length of heatshrink covering this wire. This is where a 10KΩ resistor was spliced in; another of the same value was spliced in to the audio output (another white wire) from the TIA located just above and to the right of the IC. Be sure to splice the Atarivox' output into the audio wiring after the resistor coming from the TIA's output. Note that the resistors are mandatory: without them, there will be sound from either the TIA or Atarivox (if powered on), but not both. One word about the resistors: after living with the 10KΩ ones for a few days, using ones with a lower resistance is suggested. 6.8KΩ or 4.7KΩ would probably be a better fit, and 2KΩ may also work. While both the Atarivox and Junior audio mix without issue at 10KΩ, the amount of volume that can be obtained from the Atarivox with 10KΩ resistors is about the bare minimum necessary to have a usable mix. At this point, everything's ready for refitting the RF shields (if desired), routing cables, and testing the machine. On powerup, "Atarivox Plus - Ready," should be heard from the display's speakers, and Juno First is recommended to test with since it mixes speech with TIA audio early on in the game; it also displays "Savekey Found" if it's detected at load time. Adjust the Atarivox' volume as necessary and once it's at the preferred level, carefully refit the top case, taking care to not catch any wires between the case halves or the screwposts. Other than replacing the 10KΩ resistors with ones of a lower value, one other change that may be worth making would be to replace the volume pot with one that mounts horizontally rather than vertically. This has the potential to reduce the overall height by a few millimetres, and while that might not sound like much, there are variances in PCBs, case mouldings, the adhesives used, cable routing, etc. that could turn that extra clearance into the difference between a successful fit or a frustrating, semi-finished project. This is something that I wanted to implement from the start, but available time meant that the luxury of being able to order and try out a few different trimpots just wasn't really there. In any event, if you decide to undertake this modification, all the best of luck to you, and please post any questions below
  2. I recently dug out my old heavy sixer 2600 (NTSC) and decided to mod it for composite output. My TV does have an analog tuner but the output from there is dark and grainy. I ordered an Ultimate AV kit from The Brewing Academy and got to work. Trying the "drop-in" method of piggy-backing on the CD4050 did not work. So I soldered sync and lum lines from the resistors connected to the TIA and connected them to the UAV instead. This gave me a recognizable picture but was flickering, noisy, and had darker colors. I noticed something odd while troubleshooting the issue. When I had the RF cable connected to my TV and the composite mod, the picture was perfect. Playing around with it, I found out that when the ground from the Atari RF was connected to the TV RF ground the composite output was fine. Without this connection, the composite output was not working. I brought out the oscilloscope to probe the output. With the RF cable connected, I was getting a nice composite signal with sync pulses. Max voltage was around 1.2v. Without the RF cable connected, it still looked like a composite signal but the max voltage was around 2v. So I think there is a problem somewhere with the ground. But I don't know where it could be. So any help would be appreciated. Here is a picture of the mod: Connections are as follows: Sync (Thin Yellow Wire): Atari R221 -> UAV S (pin) Lum 0 (Thin Blue Wire): Atari R220 -> UAV 1 (pin) Lum 1 (Thin Green Wire): Atari R219 -> UAV 2 (pin) Lum 2 (Thin Red Wire): Atari R218 -> UAV 3 (pin) Color in (Thin White Wire): Atari R212 -> UAV Co in (terminal) +5V (Thin Red Wire): Atari R231 -> UAV +5 (pad) Ground (Thin Black Wire): Via near Atari C204 -> UAV G (pad) Composite Out (Thick Yellow Wire): UAV CV (terminal) Composite Ground (Thick Black Wire): UAV G (terminal) Audio Out (Thick Brown Wire): Via near C120 (connected to TIA pin 12) Audio Ground (Thick Black Wire): Via near Atari C202 TIA pin 6 has been lifted out as per the instructions.
  3. I have a strange video issue going on here. Perhaps someone can shed some light. I have 4 NTSC CPUs... Atari 800XL w/Rambo 256k and Brian's original video mod Atari 800XL with U1MB, Side 2 and UAV video Atari 800XL with U1MB, Side 3 and UAV video Atari 600XL with Lothareks's 64k mod and UAV. (On this one, I removed the RF modulator and added a monitor port.) The 600XL has no color when used with the RetroTink monitor option but works fine on the C=1702. The 800XLs all work perfectly on both setups. CPU Commodore 1702 RetroTink with Dell monitor 1. 800XL #1 OK OK 2. 800XL #2 OK OK 3. 800XL #3 OK OK 4. 600XL #4 OK No color; clean signal All CPUs use the same cables on the monitor setup. One cable set for the C=1702, another cable set for the RetroTink. Any ideas?
  4. I believe the most common way that most techs will install UAVs into the 6 switch consoles, is using the 4050 piggy back method that is similar to that of the 5200. This method does work of course for most, but there are a few reason why you might not want to go with this installation method. - The 4050 is critical in the operations of the 6 switch console as it not only has buffering for the video signals, but also is part of the main logic behind the fire button / trigger controls on these older models. - There are instances of the 4050 +5 voltages to the chip not being consistent and even being too low to power the UAV properly while working fine in the console otherwise. - Requires some tight solder work to attach the socket on top of the 4050 which again, is a critical IC in the system and 40+ years old in most of these consoles. - The 4050 is quite susceptible to ESD (Electrostatic Discharge) damage. So not using proper equipment rated to be ESD safe and setup properly can damage the 4050 when touching and soldering to it directly. Although the 4050 is a cheap IC part and still made new today in this form factor, I find it best to stay clear of the IC and I get much better and more consistent results when I point to point solder wire from other locations back to the UAV. As such, this guide can be looked at as an alternate installation method and not the only way to do it. But this is the method I've been using for several years now to install UAVs into 6 switch Atari consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. These signals come from the TIA chip. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 6-switch NTSC consoles come in only two main versions. What we call the Heavy sixer and the light sixer variant. Most of the differences between the two models are on the separate attached switch boards and not on the main board containing the core logic of the game system. As a result, the method shown for UAV wiring is the same between both models of the 6-switch NTSC consoles. Power, Ground and Color resistor:- The UAV requires power and ground to operate . The 6-switch models also have an 800Ωish resistor located at R213 just about below center of the TIA chip. The picture below shows good points to get +5v (R207)and ground (C204 or C203) connections from. Additionally, the color resistor that is in place, must be disabled from circuit as it will cause hue/tint issues on the UAV that cannot be adjusted out using the color trimmer wheel. I usually de-solder the leg and use shrink tubing around it to isolate it, while keeping in place in case the resistor should ever be put back into service for some reason. You can also just clip the leg with side flush cutters as well. NTSC TIA signal component locations for UAV:- The signals needed from the TIA can be gotten from points directly off empty vias on the main board or from a nearby component leg. Again, these are alternate locations that I use for UAV installs as there is plenty of room to solder everything to and it keeps the wiring from the UAV to the main board pretty short. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, Co In, & Audio are shown below. You might have to carefully bend the resistors to the side a little bit to allow for more room to access these spare vias. Audio Connection:- As shown in the previous picture, there is an unused via next to capacitor C210. This via is connected directly to pins 12 and 13 off the TIA and is where I tap the signal needed for the audio output. However, as this is the raw signal from the TIA it is a bit too strong and I advise adding in an additional 10µf capacitor and resistor inline to help bring the level down a bit. The level of resistance it up to you and isn't required but I wouldn't go above 10k as that is likely to be too low for use and again you might be fine with how it sounds without one at all. Also be advised that this point has both pins 12 and 13 already combined so it will only provide a mono output from both channels of the TIA audio. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting. And that pretty much sums it up. The work required to install the UAV into a 6-switch 2600 in this manner might seem like more work, but I think the consistent results and less risk to the TIA and 4050 IC are worth it in these particular installs. And in the case of the NTSC 6-switch consoles, the empty spot on the main board above the TIA is a great place to attach the UAV and have everything needed right there close by. Here is an example of one I've done using the information I've posted above to give you an idea.
  5. As there can be some confusion on how to install the UAV into a 4-switch NTSC 2600 console due to the variants that exist, I thought I would try and collate all of the basic information needed for installing the UAV into these model 2600s. While the different revisions do have some slight changes between them, in all cases the area where to get the signals needed for the UAV to work are located in the same basic locations. This is is not a comprehensive guide but more of a quick reference for those that already know how to open up the 2600 and are semi familiar with the layout inside of the 4-switch NTSC consoles. UAV (Ultimate Atari Video) Layout:- The UAV has basically remained the same on its design and layout since around 2017 when the current revision D was released. I only use the basic UAV board in all of my installs as I find that easier to wire to and provides me in more flexibility overall. Below is a diagram showing you the spots on the UAV you need to be concerned with on NTSC 2600 Installations. In all installs, the UAV will need to have power, ground, color signal, and a few other video signals provided to it for it to function properly. Take NOTE that you attach the signal wires for S, 1, 2, & 3 along the center and smaller vias on the UAV. If you have a pre-built UAV with a header block soldered here, just solder wiring to the tops of the header pins to make it easier. Different revisions:- The 4-switch NTSC consoles come in revisions starting with rev12 and ending up with rev17 that I've seen personally. Meaning there are variants in between but the good news is that there are really only about 3 different layouts for the components between all of these revisions in the area that we are concerned with for the UAV. Look around the top of the main board to see which Revision of the board you have so that you know which of the sections below to refer to for your UAV install. Power, Ground and Audio:- All revisions of the 4-switch NTSC consoles share the same points for power, ground, and audio that can be used for UAV installations. While the top board trace layouts look different in the areas below and the location of the RF output RCA jack is in different spots, the actual points are the same and in the same locations. I've provided pictures that show how this area is on the Rev 12 - 14 and Rev 16 & 17 models below. Revision 12 & 13 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 12 and 13 NTSC consoles is pretty straightforward as the signals are all in a line from the main resistor section just to the right of the TIA chip. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, & Co In are shown below. Revision 14 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 14 NTSC console layout is similar to the earlier revisions with the only change being where you grab the signal for connection 2 to the UAV. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, and Co In are shown below. Revision 16 - 17 NTSC TIA signal locations for UAV:- The revision 16 & 17 NTSC consoles have their signals in the same location as the Rev14 show above, with the one change being an extra 820Ω resistor that was added to the board layout that has to be disconnected from the circuit. This resistor is located directly right of the TIA and is marked as R234, although you cannot see the silkscreen indicating this until you lift the resistor out of place. If you do not disable this resistor, you will end up with incorrect color hues on all colors from the UAV that cannot be adjusted out with the color trimmer. You can either clip the leg of the resistor, de-solder it, or remove the resistor completely. The signal points on the UAV for S, 1, 2, 3, and Co In are shown in the picture below. The picture shows an alternate location for the S signal, but you can also get it from the same location as the Rev 14 in most cases. UAV output colors appear horribly off kilter? As mentioned in the Rev 16 & 17 section, there is an extra resistor on the main board that has to be disabled. While this resistor doesn't have a dedicated location on the earlier revision 4-switch NTSC consoles, it was sometimes added from the factory and therefore bodged into place. Look the presence of this resistor either on the bottom of the main board attached to pins 6 and 9 of the TIA chip, or possibly soldered on the top component side next to the TIA socket. In these cases, it is easiest to just clip the resistor on one leg to disable it without fully removing it. You might want to add shrink tubing or some other way to insulate the lifted/cut leg of the resistor so it can't short against anything. UAV output wiring:- The output side of the UAV is along the same point that you attached the TIA color signal wire to. All of your output signal jacks will require a connection for the signal output and also ground. What I usually do in my installs is to run a shared ground wire for both audio and composite video from the ground pin near the composite output on the UAV. I then run another second shared ground for the chroma and luma outputs for s-video using the ground pin between Co In and chroma out on the UAV outputs. The diagram below shows the S-video connections on the female s-video as viewed from the front of the s-video jack. What about that blue box thing on the UAV, what is that for? :- The blue box near the output side on the UAV is a trimmer adjustment for changing the way color artifacting looks through composite output. However, this trimmer has no impact when used on the 2600 console as it was mainly put into place for using the UAV on the Atari 8-bit computers where more games used NTSC artifacting.
  6. A while back, I had the idea that it might be possible to install a UAV in a 5200 without needing to also drill the case (or expansion port cover) to install A/V jacks. The goals were as follows: No case drilling of any kind RF shields to remain in place Composite, S-Video, and audio outputs to be fully-functional RF to remain intact and functional as backup video output Achievable with off-the-shelf parts How to install a UAV won't be directly covered here; there are a ton of other resources out there that explain the process better than I could. This is currently a work in progress (the audio board and 4050 need to be installed), but so far it's going very well. Some photos: A rough idea of how the cable routing will work; more on that below. Wiring at the UAV. More on that below as well. And, finally, the A/V cabling coiled in the factory RF cable location: Regarding some of the points mentioned above: Cable routing: if keeping the RF shields (recommended), the upper shield will need to have a hole made in it somewhere to route the cabling through. I haven't decided yet if I'll run it through the side or the top, but that's a relatively minor consideration. UAV wiring: had I been thinking when the UAV was ordered, I would have gone for the kit and not the plug-in version. The green terminal block would have been substituted for right-angle header pins, and Dupont connectors used for A/V connections instead of the standard screw-downs. The jumper block that's on there now would also have been deleted, each location would have been manually jumpered, and the 4050 would have been installed into a socket running above the jumpers. A/V cabling: fits in the clip / channel in the case intended to carry the RF cable and loops without issue around the stock retainers. It's only a 6' cable, which is good from the standpoint of being able to do this, but extension cables may be required depending on how far back from the display you want to be. Other than that, it's going very well so far. Parts used are: UAV. Got that one from The Brewing Academy. Ditto the Internal Audio Board. 8-Bit Classics' Atari XL/XE 5-Pin DIN S-Video & Composite AV Cable. These can also be found elsewhere without the DIN-5 monitor connector used on the A8 machines. Jumper wires with Dupont connectors. I used these ones from Adafruit because they were what I had available.
  7. I did study a bit what VBXE could bring in for me and how it is installed, I am mostly after still improving the picture quality (right now having UAV), but also after 80 columns (though quite sure it wouldn't work with MAC/65 for example?) and be able to try the handful of VBXE games. All in all, I am not convinced to be honest, but please just quickly tell me if I got this right: - VBXE replaces GTIA, but only if I use the RGB output of the VBXE, otherwise the stock video output goes from the onboard GTIA that is still doing its thing (and none of the extra video features are available there)? - The stock GTIA cannot be removed, even if the stock video output is not used? (I am sensing I am getting this one wrong)? - It will work fine (putting aside any clearance issues) with UAV, and I can take the CSYNC signal from the composite output of the UAV instead of 4050 without loss of picture quality? - I cannot take the pre 4050 CSYNC signal directly from GTIA for the video connector? - There is no way on Earth VBXE will clear my GTIA fixer board (see photo) without building a tower of sockets under the ANTIC VBXE adapter board? And perhaps then not even clearing the case cover?
  8. I bought a composite modded 7800 on eBay years and years before I ever touched a soldering iron. I went back to install the UAV kit from brewingacademy.com on it yesterday, following the PDF and the YouTube video in the guide. I deviated a bit from the video as my 7800 already had some destructive changes made when the eBay seller modified it -- they removed the RF port by breaking it off the RF modulator (but left it in for some reason, I completely removed it), and removed R3, R5, and C10. The console before I installed UAV could play sound from Pokey (original Ballblazer cart). Now after installing UAV I'm not getting this sound. I did not have the exact 6.8k resistor to replace R5, but combined two that add up to 6.9k (tested w/ meter) and soldered them to the bottom hole of R5, then lifted R6 and connected them to the positive side of a 10uF capacitor as was done in the YouTube video and PDF guides (see attached image, sorry it's a little blurry). Any idea where I messed up -- do I need to replace R3 and/or C10? Edit to add: Everything else works with the mod. Composite and Svideo, and sound from non-Pokey games.
  9. So these arrived in the mail yesterday and so I was super stoked to build one up and try installing it onto my test bed stock 7800 I use in the lab. If you saw my earlier blog post, you might have already figured it out, but yes... I designed some mount PCBs for slight ease on installing UAVs into 7800s. These mount boards have the chroma fix already on them in addition to the extra resistors and cap for audio mixing to external RCA jacks etc. However, this is a dual mono audio solution and not stereo... just something to keep in mind. Not sure I will make these available to the public yet as the time to hand assemble and test them isn't something I can do large scale. But for my client installs going forward, this is likely how my UAV installs will pretty much look like. This first board I put together is using single pin sockets so I could easily pop the UAV on/off the board as needed for testing etc. Actual installs will have the UAV soldered permanently onto the mount board and as a result the UAV will sit lower onto the mount board than you see here. The mount board is designed with board headers so that you solder it down near the resistor legs that the video signals are tapped from. I also have vias for power and ground that line up with the GND and +5 from the RF modulator pins. In this example install, I use a 90 right angle pin header that solders to the top of the pin headers from the RF modulator board and then can be soldered through the vias. But this isn't required as you could just solder wires to these vias instead if you wanted. Additionally, once the UAV is attached, you could also just run +5 and GND to the UAV pads and it would feed everything as well. I also have included 2 more board headers that allow me to solder to the R5 and R6 resistors to get the audio signals we need for the POKEY and TIA. These are then mixed on the mount board and an audio out pad provided to simplify the audio portion of installs. Here is the example setup I did last night. Again I used single pin sockets on this so I could remove the UAV easily but actual installs would have the UAV soldered onto header pins directly. As a result, the actual combo won't sit this tall on actual installs as the UAV will only at half the height you see here. Here are two more boards I soldered up ready to go. These are using the through hole pin headers. To align these, I actually set them into place and then set a UAV on top. So actual assembly is basically to solder on the SMD components first, then set the header pins for the UAV into place, place the UAV onto the pins to align everything up, flip the board over and solder the header pins for the UAV on the bottom of the PCB. Then I solder in the larger and thicker header pins for the mount boards resistor leg mounting. I then line it up and solder the mount board into place. I'm then able to do some initial testing without the UAV by power on the console to make sure I have power and ground connections where needed. I can also verify that some of the video signals (Especially chroma) are coming through using my o'scope. Everything else just needs continuity tested to be sure I have connections. I can then place the UAV onto the pins and power on again without soldering it to initially test that the UAV is working. Granted it is just sitting on the header pins at this point, but they make a good enough connection for these initial tests. Once confirmed everything is a go, I can then solder the UAV permanently into place and run my output wires where needed. Because of the orientation of the UAV (It was really the only way to keep it all self contained in this one spot), it does require running your AV out wires ahead of time or header pins etc.. as you won't be able to solder it into place very easily once the UAV is in place given how close the video outputs will be to the RF modulator's interconnect board.
  10. This thread has been created for the brave who are embarking on this 1088XEL project alone. This is a place to share your updates, questions, and issues during the course of your journey. Some have already started as others will begin later. Please share what you have done, and anything else that can be of value to everyone completing this board. I have my boards from McRorie, my BOM components from Digi-Key (1 item on Back-Order), UAV Rev D from Bryan, Sophia Board (requires updating, U1MB board (Candle version), which requires an update from v1 to v2. I will be also completing several XEL-CF-][ and JOY2PIC-STIK as well. I will provide updates on those builds too. I will be using a Xytronic 137ESD Solder Station. For the solder I'm using .015 diameter low residue flux core solder with 2.2% flux. It is great to solder with especial with small boards and tight areas where a flux mess is not appreciated. Below, I have soldered the 24 CAP 0.1UF (digi-key 399-9870-1-ND). More to come..... Special Thanks to Michael St. Pierre (mytekcontrols) for which none of this would have been possible!!!
  11. Hi, in the last months I got several reports from users of my SCCC (SuperColor CPU Card) and/or the 48/52 RAM Card for the Atari 400 when using the Atari 400 computer. The bug report was always the same: After (correctly) installing one or both of my expansions, the system starts only in one of ten (...) tries. When it boots up, everything works fine, but in most cases you got only a green (NTSC) or brown (PAL) screen. Of course I´ve searched the failure in my projects, but can´t find any. Five users returned their cards for exchange, but the exchange won´t work better - and all returned cards works flawless at my test systems. Later I got additional response about the exact same problem from users who have UAV installed (plugin version) with directly exchange (replace the 4050 chip with the UAV plugin module). So I examine this behavior more intensive and the reason was found quickly: One of the gates from the 4050 buffer chip is used for strengthen the RESET signal to the CPU and make sure it´s at a defined logic state. So if you removed the 4050 for the installation of an UAV (or the SuperColor CPU Card, even when this is not needed), then the RESET pin 40 at the CPU is floating around and you have an undefined condition. Some CPUs doesn´t care about this and start always even when the RESET input floats around 1.7 volts (for example), others didn´t start up (SYNC = constantly low). However, if you´re using the SuperColor CPU Card and the 4050 is missing: Just plug it in again and the faults should be gone. If you´ve installed the UAV plugin module, then a fix is needed. The TBA manual suggest to solder the UAV plugin module "piggy-packed" onto the 4050, which is one solution. Another solution is to solder the 4050 chip (partly) "down-under". This is useful when you change the hardware some times (like I do in my tests). For permanent usage it´s simpler to install the whole chip OR use the piggy-pack way ? Look for this chip. First bend all pins in the horizontal position. Cut off all pins except pin 1,8,14 and 15 as shown in the picture above. Carefully bend all four pins upright like shown above. Shorten the pins at the half. And solder the chip from the solder side of the Atari 400 mainboard upside-down to the socket pins of the 4050´s place. See here pin 1 (right) and pin 8 (left). And a view from the other side - pin 15 the left, pin 14 to the right next to pin 15. Doing this mod will fit without problems in the metal cage.
  12. I've been working on a new upgrade that can be installed in any A8, 5200, & even the 2600. I know there's a million upgrades out there, but the good ones are mostly based on tweaks to the original Atari circuit, and the bad ones are haphazardly designed. 1st, the real problems with the Atari circuit(s): The video circuits in most A8's are not sufficiently decoupled from the digital noise in the system. Video power and ground are often shared with very noisy components like DRAM and this causes vertical bars to appear in the picture. For example, you can often see the refresh cycles on the left side of the screen. Crude DACs like the one made from the CD4050 have no ability to reject power supply noise and will superimpose it on the picture. No tweaking of the video buffers will remove it. Atari actually put components in some XLs to blur the image in an attempt to clear up the lines. That's not to say the buffers didn't need tweaking. They frequently deviated from the 75-ohm impedance standard that that meant the picture quality could be unreliable (shadows, smearing & ghosting), especially with longer cables. At video speeds, you only get maximum transfer when everything is the right impedance. In addition, some of the chroma circuits produced highly distorted sine-waves which contributed to noise in the image. So to solve these problems, my board: 1. Has an on-board regulator to create a clean video power source. 2. Has a 3-channel video amplifier designed for 75 ohm loads. 3. Has a pixel re-clocking circuit to remove skew and better align the 4 luminance signals into a perfect pixel edge. 4. Has a carefully designed chroma-shaping circuit. In addition, there's an adjustable pot on the board which controls the phase between the chroma and luma signals. A nice side-effect of this that you can change the artifact colors. There's also a jumper to invert the chroma which swaps the positions of the artifact colors. The board plugs into the CD4050 socket for easy installation on most machines. It can be used in place of the original circuit or along side it. I'm working on the final board layout and I hope to have them available in the AtariAge store early next year. Here are some pictures of the prototype. Any patterns in the picture are due to the camera picking up the CRT mask, but you'll notice the absence of vertical bars (I'll try to get better pictures...). One of the pictures is taken off my LCD (and even the LCD is hard to photograph). The split screen pictures show the effect of artifact tuning. The board is currently installed in a very noisy 130XE. I'll try to get some before pictures. I'm calling it UAV for Ultimate Atari Video. More to come!
  13. 80 column text on the Atari 8bit, with out using the XEP80 or some modified video card, is created by using GRAPHICS 8 and a 4 character wide font. It works fairly well on an unmodified Atari IF you have a a B&W TV or, even better, a monochrome monitor. A color TV, LED TV/monitor or even some composite monitors, no so good (See 1st picture). The screen is created by a BASIC program from ANTIC called Easy80 (attached). As you can see the font is only sorta readable on my color LCD monitor. But, while installing my new UAV chip in my 600XL I once forgot to hook up the color line and the video was just B&W. This got me thinking. What would the screen look like if I disconnected that line and then ran the Easy80. (picture below). That is really clear. Here is a picture in the XL of the line I disconnected. The line is supposed to be connected to the screw connector at the top to supply the color. IDEA! put a switch on the back of the computer to turn off that line on when I want sharp B&W or 80 column. Before I do it is there any reason I shouldn't do that? Is there something I'm missing that might hurt or damage my XL when the switch is off. what ya'll think? disclaimer: I have my UAV set up for composite only. If you have setup for S-Video with separate chroma , should work the same but haven't tested it. easy80basic.atr
  14. Is there an idiots guide to fitting a UAV board to a 1200xl? I looked in the UAV threads but the info is pretty sketchy imo
  15. If someone successfully installed the Rev. D UAV in an 800XL and then were Stupid enough to accidently insert the board into the chip socket while their 800XL was powered on, what damage if any would you expect from that stupidity? I had a good, working install of the UAV as best I could tell...though I was investigating some slight ghosting in the display. I was trying to confirm if I had the Luma and the composite video reversed (I had only done basic boot-up display to the Ready prompt and the initial U1M boot screen, no games or fancy displays). That's when I managed to forget I was powered on and inserted the UAV into the chip socket. Now, I can only get black-and-white output or a over-driven signal that has color halos on the white lettering/borders (if that makes any sense). I added the U1M mod to this machine after installing the UAV--- and for clarity, both were working prior to my oops. I've already ordered a couple additional UAV's, but they haven't arrived yet to allow me to do any cross-testing with this or a 2nd un-modded machine I have. I'm just driving myself nuts guessing at this point.
  16. I'd like to share this audio improvement project I've been working and testing last weeks, recreating the audio companion for the UAV developed by Bryan, taking the Pokey output to generate a new signal. In a phrase: it's like to listen an "old sound in a new machine" instead of to listen an "old sound in an old machine". And it works. Quality sound: Time ago I was looking for an audio improvement, unfortunately there wasn't a good comparison or comments about a difference of this kind of projects with the original Atari sound, so I decided to build my own and play with it. I played changing components several times to get a clearer and smooth sound, and also increasing the power. The feeling is like listening an mp3 at 96kbps and then to listen the same song at 128kbps. You can hear some improvements in some frequencies, and it feels better, but of course it's far away from a 320kbps mp3. The main noticeable changes are with bass related sounds, now they are not lost in the background. With the sharp sounds the difference is less noticeable, but in overall I'm happy and it's a recommended improvement. (For this post I tried to make a video if we are talking about sound, but for some reason when connecting the 3.5mm cable to the camcorder, it appeared a noise not noticeable with the speakers and with the TV, so it wasn't a good comparison test to be published). Further works: Pseudo-stereo improvement: Since the 99.9% of the games and demos are mono, and the only way to convert them to stereo is to tell each developer to re-write the code, I've been searching for a way to have some kind of stereo sound. I started with splitters to divide the signal in 2 according to its frequency, but those tests were unsuccessful and with undesired results. So then, an approach to have some kind of stereo is to generate 2 signals (left-right) with different tone. And so far so good. It's not stereo but if you move around the room it's possible to hear some louder sounds to the right, and others heavier to the left, instead of to have the same mono sound to the left and to the right. Internal speaker: And the last sound-related improvement I'm testing is to install a small speaker inside the Atari, with an amplifier. Having an untouched 3rd signal with the original tone at low volume in the room, it will create a more spatial effect. It'll require more energy and it's not tested yet, but I think it will be fine, and also I will add a switch to turn it off if it becomes louder.
  17. Recommended board: Plug-In (if 4050 soldered in) The 5200 may either have soldered or socketed 4050. This will affect the procedure somewhat so we'll start with instructions for a soldered in 4050: Position the main PCB with the cartridge slot toward the back. Soldered-in 4050: 1. Solder the 16-pin socket on top of the 4050. It is only necessary to solder pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9 and 11. Soldering pin 16 is probably a good idea as well just to secure all corners of the socket. With a reasonably small iron tip, you should be able to work between the 4050 and the Antic chip behind it. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. Socketed 4050: I am currently revising this section as the 4050 is necessary to retain the reset hardware and the jumper method isn't reliable enough. Removing the 4050 to plug in the UAV will disable the RF video. If this isn't a problem, then follow these steps: 1. Remove the 4050. 2. Connect a wire to the front pad of R17. This is the rightmost 1K resistor in front of the 4050. This will be the Color In wire. 3. Make sure the jumpers are configured for the 5200 and install the UAV in the socket with the green terminal toward the back. 4. Connect the Color-In wire to terminal 1 (the terminal closest to the right back corner). Make sure the wire is clamped in securely. 5. Solder a jumper across the back pads of R2 and R3 (only do this if the 4050 is removed!) 6. Attach your video cables to the UAV. The remaining terminals (2-6) are Ground, Chroma, Luma, Composite, and a 2nd Ground. If you wish to retain RF video, then you'll need to keep the 4050. However, soldering a socket on top of the 4050 will raise the UAV up too high to replace the shielding which is necessary for decent RF performance. For this reason, it is preferable to get a Kit and build the UAV according to This post and then follow the instructions above (skipping step 5). Installing an Audio Companion board: 1. Locate C37 and solder the Audio Companion board across its leads with ground (G) toward the front. Apply the soldering iron to both the capacitor lead and the large pads at the bottom of the board while applying solder until they flow together. This will provide power and hold the AC in place. 2. Solder a wire from input iA (the first pad at the top from the back) to the back pad of R50 (1K). This resistor is just inside the shield area in front of where the AC is now installed. 3. Connect the audio out wire to the last pad on the Audio Companion marked out. If you're using a coaxial wire, you can connect ground to the back pad of the capacitor in front of C37 (C51) or any other nearby grounded spot like the exposed shield strip. Carefully check your work against the pictures before powering the system. Route cables carefully out of the shielding during reassembly.
  18. Good day all this is my first post and hopefully it’s not redundant. So I Had my faithful 800xl running smooth but was in dire need of decent graphics. This site was a great source of info and I found/ordered the UAV. I did the install. Not too tricky. However, since then I have not been able to get her to boot. Using this gorum i did some testing with differing results. RAM hasn’t changed, tried no bios/bios, cart boot etc... I’ve seen a blue screen, a screen with vertical lines. Sadly though I have yet to hear the warm bleeps of the xl booting/loading floppy. What am i misding?
  19. Here is a video I did on my UAV installation into a 4-port 5200. I had some issues in that this particular 4-port refused to work without the 4050 still in the mix. Since I wanted to keep the RF shield in place, it required some modification of the mod board. Bryan's procedures are pretty much dead on so unless there is a need for something with more pictures...etc I'm leaving it with just my video and Bryan's instructions. Bryan's instructions for installation are found on his blog here: http://atariage.com/forums/blog/695/entry-14462-install-uav-ac-in-the-5200/
  20. My youtube video in the link below shows a summary of how i got rid of the Atari 5200 switchbox that is bulky, inconvenient, prone to failures, and is expensive to replace. Even when it works, it usually does not give a clean signal. I ditched the switchbox and RF altogether by applying two mods: 1) the switchbox bypass power mod from console5.com and 2) the UAV board from thebrewingacademy.com. PLEASE READ THE NOTES SECTION OF THE VIDEO FOR MORE DETAILS NOT MENTIONED IN THE VIDEO. I am not an experienced modder, and do not post a lot of videos, so i would really appreciate your positive comments and likes. rradi
  21. So I've got myself a new, or to me at least, Atari 800XL PAL (Manf. Taiwan) version that seems pretty much untouched. I've just built an SIO2PI, and SIO2Arduino to start getting software on to it but with regards to memory and video upgrades I'm a bit lost with all of the options mentioned in the forums. Firstly with the video. I've got an s-video to VGA converter which I want to use, and I've seen a lot of recommendations to go the way of UAV but as I understand Bryan's got a lot going on these days and won't be producing more boards until next year at the earliest. I took a quick look at the s-video modifications thread which started in 2009 but it's really hard to figure out what the latest suggestions/methods are in this thread with a number of changes made in the last few years. Unfortunately Sophia is out of price range for me at the moment, especially with shipping and import taxes where I'm located. What are the options for improving the video signal these days? Homebrew/DIY preferred over trying to get boards into the country. Secondly, I'd like to upgrade the memory a little. Again, U1MB seems to be the go for solution these days but though the board is only $80 I'm looking at another $100 on shipping and customs fees. Looking at the stuff I want to do, 256K would be sufficient but I've no idea if there's any highly compatible, reasonably straight forward upgrades currently available, or again homebrew/DIY. Soldering is not an issue so not necessarily needing plug-in solutions. Anyway, great to be accepted into the community; the last one I was part of was the FaST club in the UK back in the 90's but feel more at home with my 800XL on my desk. Any help or advice on getting started also gladly accepted.
  22. I recently purchased a couple of UAV kits from Bryan, so I thought I'd document my installations. http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/album/2096-uav-installation/ Initially I found it difficult to find installation information, but I soon realised that it was in all the forums, it just wasn't all in the same place. The installation of the UAV mod in the XEGS was extremely easy. The most difficult part was deciding how I wanted to implement the mod, and my decision changed a few times and still is not yet complete. I usually want to keep my machines in mint condition, unless something about them indicates that its not really worth it...maybe a broken case, repaired electronics, or I have more than one machine of a particular type in my collection. In this case, the machine I chose to mod had already been repaired by me. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/258432-xegs-repair/?hl=%2Bhawk+%2Bxegs I had originally planned to remove the 4050 chip when I installed the UAV but realised that if I did that I would lose the RF output. I don't use the RF output if I can help it but I wasn't sure whether I wanted to totally remove it. From the monitor photos you'll see that I went to the trouble of replacing the original LCD driver board with a TV tuner LCD controller board. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-controller-board-Kit-diy-VGA-HDMI-USB-TV-for-LCD-LED-Display-Monitor-Panel/152446068465?hash=item237e7e66f1:g:PlsAAOSwdGFYxLsS that allowed me to use RF in for some of my older machines including my 400. I ended up soldering the socket that came with the UAV kit directly onto the pins of the 4050 chip and then plugging in the daughter board. It almost worked first time, however I hadn't realised that I had to provide a colour input signal to the daughter board. I removed the centre pin of the composite out socket from the motherboard and wired the UAV output directly to that. I also included the extra ground wire. I didn't have any small shielded cables so I used regular hookup wire. You'll see from the photos in the album that there was not a great difference in the compisite signal before and after the mod. To be honest, the image was pretty good to start with. However, the S-video output made a big difference. I'd forgotten that my LCD monitor couldn't handle S-video, so I had to test it out on a CRT TV. I had yet to take photos of the S-video. I am also deciding how to fit the S-video socket on the rear of the XEGS. The socket I was able to buy locally is not the one that I'd prefer so I'm putting off installing that for a little bit longer. I'll update again after I've completed that mod...then it will be on to the 400. The 400 will be delayed until I can receive an Audio mod card from Bryan so that I can also get sound after bypassing the RF.
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