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Found 33 results

  1. I've seen USB adapters for connecting Atari 2600 paddle controllers to a PC, but what about connecting USB optical mice to a real Atari to use as paddles? I'm interested in trying a regular wired USB optical mouse or PC wired USB optical trackball for controlling paddle games - not only would it give a different gaming experience than paddles, but optical controllers would also be "jitter proof". I have already made my own spinner controllers for MAME and Stella on the computer very simply, by duct-taping an optical mouse against a shaft (such as a wood dowel, or a wood dowel through a section of foam pool noodle) connected to a knob, and it works beautifully. So I am curious about making an adapter using an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or similar, that you can plug the mouse into, and outputs the variable resistances that would emulate a real paddle controller on the 2600. (The paddle button would be a simple matter of wiring the button to the appropriate pins.) Has anyone tried this, seen a page on this, or got any idea how a microcontroller might output the resistance range (1M ohm) that a native 2600 paddle controller would?
  2. So its been awhile since Ive posted on here but I got a question only you smart people can answer. Why won't the EZ flash 4 work on the Super Retro Advance Adapter by Retro Bit? See it will get past the first white screen and something working cause a box will pop up and say "can not find disk" yet we can't get it passed that. I have read speculation that it it eats to much current for the SNES but that doesn't make any sense when you consider it does load at least a bit of the flash carts software. I wonder if this isn't something we could fix with a firmware update? If so it really needs to be done cause everybody has been lead to believe the EZ Flash 4 is the best and oddly it is in a normal gba. Hell it even works fine in the gba player for the gamecube so what the @#$% is going on? If we can't figure this out it looks like I bought another piece of hardware I can't use. *facepalm*
  3. There's been a new discovery and I'm here to explain how to get certain Atari 2600 and 7800 controllers to work on your Atari 5200 for a pretty reasonable price. The 2600 and 7800 controllers will only be working on 5200 games that have a single button involved in the gameplay, not two. Also, I need to point out that the games that require analog movement (ie. Breakout, Kaboom, Missile Command) can't be effectively played with the 2600 and 7800 controllers. First, you'll need the PC gameport to 5200 controller adapter (the one I have is made by fellow Atariage resident 5200 expert, bohoki, and it's a good design at a quite reasonable price). If you own one of these, you will want to get a PC joystick and/or gamepad with two buttons to go along with it (to play games which require two buttons like Defender). The schematics are available online if you choose to make one on your own. Secondly you need to buy an Atari 2600 to PC gameport controller adapter (schematic is available if you pm me). This adapter is currently made available on Ebay by ikonsgr74. Here is the current Ebay listing: http://m.ebay.com/itm/AMIGA-ATARI-AMSTRAD-COMMODORE-DB-9-PIN-JOYSTICK-ADAPTER-DB15-PIN-PC-GAME-PORT-/111807334682?nav=SEARCH The two adapters can be connected together allowing for a 2600 or 7800 controller to be put into use for games which have compatibility with digital controllers. This is going to essentially give you something kinda like a Masterplay Interface adapter, but with a couple downsides. 1) The original Atari-made 2600 joysticks, paddles, and trackballs that I've tried are incompatible. The heavy sixer CX-10 could work, though. I don't own one of those. Wico bat handle sticks are incompatible. I have 4 or 5 Atari-made/Wico-made joysticks and a single trakball and not one worked properly. 2) Even though you'd think it'd work with Genesis controllers, it's not compatible. I've been looking for a workaround but have come to the conclusion that the design of the 2600 to PC Gameport adapter is preventative for getting the power to the Genesis controller circuit that requires +5 volts (and that includes attempts to use an Edladdin Genesis to 7800 conversion cable). If you want to hear any details of my attempt to wire in an external power supply, pm me. 3) If you have a Pointmaster, Spectravideo 2 button, Quickshot 2 Deluxe, or Colecovision controller you were hoping to use, you'll be disappointed. The upsides are: 1) One controller that works and works well is the Slik Stick which is a favorite of mine. 2) it not only works with an Atari-made 7800 Proline controller, but a couple of my NES-to-7800 conversion controllers (converted NES Epyx 500xj and a converted rectangular NES controller). I figure it'll also work with the rectangular Atari-made European pad, too, but I don't have one to test out. You get single button compatibility out of all of them. 3) Sega Master System gamepads and Control Sticks work and work well for single button games. (But not the Sega Sportspad) 4) Wired controllers made for the Atari Flashback 2 system work and work well. 5) Sears Video Arcade II joysticks (not the paddle part), Gemsticks, Mindscape Power Player trigger-joysticks, Epyx 500xj, and Coleco Gemini joysticks (not the paddle part) all work great. Well, there you go. It's not exactly a Redemption adapter, but for less than $30 you can enjoy many 5200 games with a reasonably good number of controllers. I never got an opportunity to use a Masterplay Interface (or a Redemption adapter for that matter), but now I'm seeing the true value of what many have come to appreciate before me... and it didn't cost me an arm and a leg! If you're concerned about whether it's safe for your game system, I will say that nothing bad has happened to my 4 port system over the past couple months of hot swapping various controllers into the connected adapters with the 5200 on. If you haven't tried 2600/7800 compatible controllers on your 5200, you now have a great opportunity.
  4. Well, I've done some more experimenting and have managed to find a way to attach wired PS3 and Xbox 360 controllers to the 5200 to play the games that offer digital controls (as opposed to the analog-only games like Missile Command). This required a number of video game controller adapters/cables and a USB power supply. Here's how it's done: The adapters needed to get the wired PS3 controllers compatible with the Atari 5200 are as follows: 1) a 15 pin PC Gameport controller to 15 pin Atari 5200 adapter. These are obtained by contacting Atariage member, bohoki. He makes these for under $20 (shipped within the U.S.). 2) An adapter that converts Atari/Amiga/Sega controllers with a 9 pin connector to a 15 pin PC gameport. These are available on Ebay from "Ikonsgr74" and can be obtained for under $20 (shipped anywhere in the world). 3) A Tototek Joypad Convertor version MD (for Playstation controller compatibility on the Megadrive/Sega Genesis). These adapters are under $30. 4) A Brook Game Controller Super Convertor for adapting a PS3/PS4 controller to a PS2 console. These can be had for under $40. 5) a USB splitter cable ($12 or less). 6) a powersupply with a USB cord (5Volts) OR a USB Hub with connected power supply. To get the Xbox 360 controllers compatible with the 5200, you'll need one additional adapter. It is the Mayflash Universal Adapter for Xbox360/PS3/PS2/PC USB. These may be found at Amazon. Current price for these on Amazon is $30, but that is subject to change. Mayflash adapters tend to become scarce and go up in price. If any of you have interest in a video presentation on this (as well as a quick explanation of how to fix a potentiometer controller problem) here's the link for that:
  5. There's now a way to make 80s and 90s PC joysticks, steering wheels, and gamepads compatible with the Atari 7800 one and two button games. For the one button games all you need is this adapter: https://ebay.us/ON1DA8 For the two button games three adapters are required: Adapter #1: Edladdin Seagull 78 Adapter #2: Sega Master System Rapid Fire Adapter Adapter #3: 15 pin PC controller to Atari/Amiga adapter made by Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 Also included in the presentation is a unique way to play Robotron 2084 with combined gamepads. Enjoy enhancing your 7800 games.
  6. I have an Atari Jaguar, but lost the power adapter a long time ago. I've seen people saying the first-gen Genesis power adapter works for the Jaguar, but what about the MK-1602-1 adapter? It's intended for the first-gen Genesis, which requires 9V and 1.2A, but the adapter is 10V and 1.2A. I don't know why they made it 1 volt more, but it's meant for a system that requires 9V, so would it work for the Jaguar? From pictures people have posted, it looks like the same company might have made the same power adapter for multiple companies.
  7. From the album: ADTX 2.5inch SCSI to IDE HD adapter

    ADTX 2.5inch SCSI to IDE HD adapter, hard drive above with adapter attached below
  8. Hi all, I'm soon going to buy a Raspberry Pi 3 and turn it into an Atari 2600 emulation system. I already have a pair of joystick controllers, but I'll need adapters t use them on my system. I already know about the 2600-daptor and 2600-daptor II, I know they work great, and I'm going to get me some of those in the future, once I acquire paddles and driving controllers. But for the time being, I thought two of these might be enough for the time being: http://www.retrousb.com/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=70&osCsid=ebbd334c24342ad9ccbbab011d5b7ad1 These are the RetroUSB adapters, they only work with Joysticks, but that's also all I have right now, and over 90% of the VCS games used Joystick controllers, so I don't think I'll be getting bored anytime soon. Does anyone own one of these? Have you tried them? How good are they (say, compared to other adapters), have you had any issues with them? Do they work fine with Stella?
  9. Well, I just finished putting in 3 hours with my son trying to configure this adapter to use my old 2600 joysticks so we could play Freeway, Frogger, etc on a Macintosh. I could get one player to move up and down. That is all. I even tried installing and configuring USB Overdrive. FYI, we tried it with our Power64 Commodore64 emulator and could only jump and move right (I know it's unrelated, but I felt like mentioning it). Has anyone out here successfully used this thing with Stella 4 on Mac OS 10.6.8?
  10. I have developed an "upgrade" kit to allow playing 2600 trackball games with a 5200 Trak-Ball. The process just adds another cable to the controller and uses another "configuration cable" to link the original 15 pin cable with the new cable. Terminates in a 9 pin that plugs into a 2600 controller port. No permanent modifications are made to the trackball. Everything is 100% reversible. Works with the slate of 2600 games recently hacked to support actual trackball controllers. Following the success of one kit being installed by an end user, I'm just wondering if it's worth the effort to order in parts to make a few of these. PM me with inquiries.
  11. Although this is slated for a bigger upcoming project, I figured it would likely be useful in a stand-alone application as well. Since I have a new compact motherboard design that will require an internal mouse interface with the ability to easily switch between joystick ports, and if desired completely disappear (stealth mode), I began work on a new mouse interface chip for the A8. It could have just as easily been used in an Atari ST, or with a bit of code finagling also made to work in an Amiga. Initially I looked at some of the GPL PS/2 mouse-to-ST/Amiga offerings, thinking that I would simply add what code I needed. However once I dived in, I quickly decided this would not be a good way to go, and so began my journey to write mouse code from scratch in my favorite development application FlowCode. Anyway suffice it to say i am probably 85% done, with the last 15% dedicated to supporting mouse movement acceleration (very tricky stuff). So here's a look at how this new mouse chip will be implemented in my new project, along with of course a TK-II keyboard chip (this schematic shows part of the I/O section). Unlike the mouse support that existed on the early versions of TK-II firmware, and then was later abandoned, this one has true ST mouse emulation as its primary goal (plus some enhancements). Yes I know people would love to have a USB mouse instead (as well as a USB keyboard interface), but with all that I have going on I'm afraid this is the best that I can presently do. Especially considering the learning curve required to implement this in USB as well likely needing to switch over to a different processor family to really do it right (yet another learning curve to climb). Besides despite what the rumors would have you believe, there are plenty of NEW PS/2 mice and keyboards still available, as well as some that offer wireless support. And lets face it, PS/2 protocol is a hell of a lot easier to work with. Ohh and did I mention that I get lazy from time to time . Anyway I doubt if I'll be making any PCBs for stand-alone plug-in usage, but if someone is ambitious, I will be providing the PIC MCU Firmware (in JOY2PIC and Microchip file versions). Stay tuned for more info and eventually the firmware release. - Michael
  12. Hi guys, not sure if this is the right place for my announcement but if you happen to enjoy Atari 8bit games and sometimes have to play them on your PC/Mac/Android using an emulator you might want to check out my new hardware adapter that will make it so much better http://joy.sophics.cz/dual-joystick-usb-adapter/ If you're interested please send me an email. The contact is linked at the bottom of the web page. Thanks, Petr
  13. I recently ordered this ac adapter off of ebay for my 2600. I was looking for an oem one, because those are the best to use. Anyways, I got this in the mail and I just haven't ever seen anything like this one before. The two things that I thought were odd was that first: It was was made in China. And second: the box has rounded edges. Do you guys know if this is oem, or have you ever seen any like this. (I don't have a camera so here's the ebay ad. It looks just like the picture on the box, except it has voltage specs etc. on the front too. It's also ended so just scroll down a little.) Thanks in advance! eBay Auction -- Item Number: 390458752431
  14. I got one of these and it doesn't really seem legit. Have you guys ever seen one that looks like this? (I don't have a camera so here's the ebay ad. It looks about the same on the box, except it has voltage specs. etc.) I just question it because of the rounded edges.eBay Auction -- Item Number: 390458752431
  15. Hi, I´ve made a little tiny project which may not has a really amount of usage for standard user, but some tinkerer could found it useful. I call it simply "KEYCON" - a small adapter PCB for Atari XL or Atari XE keyboard connectors. First let´s take a look of the thing: The PCB is 0.8mm thick and fits also in the original keyboard connector found on all XL/XE mainboards (except 1200XL and XEGS). There are several possibilities to attach a new keyboard connector or directly solder some wire connected to the keyboard. The KEYCON PCB can be used in an Atari XL or Atari XE. Of course you must use a XL keyboard when connected to a XL computer (and same for XE) like usual For diagnostic issues (for example using the Super SALT cartridgdes) the most needed keys are seperate located on the KEYCON PCB. So you can use endless loop tests and quick diagnostics with SALT without connecting a keyboard. This saves the mylar cables from breaking and so on. For each system (XL or XE) you will found the keys RESET, OPTION, SELECT, START and BREAK. For already defective mylar keyboard cables, the main problem is always... how to connect ANY type of substitute to the genuine keyboard connector? Without using direct soldering or many glue it´s not a working solution for a long time. Some time in the past I also use ribbon cables and solder the cables directly to the pads on the mainboard, removing the keyboard connector before. Or, another solution is to use some single row pin heades, they can plugged into the genuine keyboard connector also, but must be fixed. KEYCON can be used for a quick test (just plug the whole PCB with the front side into the existing, genuine connector on the XL/XE) or as a continuous replacement for defect keyboard connections. Below this text you will fine some examples of usage. I will only ship, for interested people, the bare PCB. Everybody has different needs and wishes, and all parts (IDC header connector, single row male header and so on) are easy to get in any electronics store. Tipp: sometimes they´re extremly cheap at shops selling accessoires for Arduino & Raspberry Pi solutions. The final version will have ENIG (immersion gold finish) contacts, will be a little smaller than now (actual: 61x69 mm) and will fit better using an Atari 800XL. I have made a little wrong measurement, final version will fit perfectly. Price for one bare PCB will be from 6 up to 9 Euros, depending on the amount of orders. Please show your interest (with quantity you want) here in this thread or by PN. I will collect responses until October, the 4th (2017-10-04) and then sent infos of final price and order details. Shipping for up to 5 pieces worldwide is 5 Euros. And now some pictures... Please read also the comments between the pics KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari 800 XL mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XL" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XL keyboard. With this prototype layout, the PCB can´t be fit into a cased 800 XL. Of course final version will do. This pictures shows ALL pads on the KEYCON PCB used. This is not mandatory of course. For example, if you install KEYCON permanently, the desoldered genuine keyboard connector isn´t useful placed at KEYCON. If you want to use a standard 50 pin ribbon cable as the new keyboard cable, then the IDC male header is needed, otherwise leave these pads empty. It´s on you how you want to use it. Also the tactile momentary switches for the keys named above must not installed, if not really needed. You can break this part of the KEYCON PCB away, if you want. There´s no electronics and special thing on KEYCON. KEYCON plugged into the genuine keyboard connector (Atari XE mainboard) Genuine keyboard connector replaced by a female row precision header. KEYCON plugged into the replacement header. The five "XE" keys are in the same order (except BREAK) like on any standard XE keyboard. In post o. 2 of this thread I will collect all interests and amounts. Best regards, Jurgen
  16. Hey just a quick question- does the gray ac adapter have the same amps, voltage, and polarity as the black one? I got a heavy sixer and I know they usually use a gray power supply, but the one i got came with a black one. Thanks.
  17. I've got a new discovery of a special joystick that can get digital control games on the Atari 5200 & 2600 like Meteorites & other 80s versions of Asteroids to be more analog for fine-tuning the placement of your shots. This can also be helpful on Star Trek Strategic Operations Simulator and Wizard of War. On the flip side this variance in movement of your onscreen character may not be such a good idea in certain digital games because it may slow you down when you need to always be full-steam-ahead (ie. PacMan, Dig Dug, Frogger, Q-bert, etc...). It also will not be a preferred method of control with 5200 games that already have the benefit of innately working in an analog way with an analog controller (Missile Command, Super Breakout, Dreadnaught Factor, and Star Wars Arcade). But on the certain digital-control games which require specific shot placement or character placement, it's going to enhance your control. I am really excited to tell you that Beamrider and Gyruss are completely beyond awesome with this new method of control. I have yet to try Pitfall or Pitfall II with this method, but I can imagine there'd be a benefit with them as well. So I'd like to go over the details of how to set this up on the 5200. First you will need an original Playstation flightstick made by Madcatz. This controller has a switch to enable digital or 'pulse' digital control. The following adapters will be connected to that flightstick: 1] A PC gameport to Atari 5200 15 pin adapter. (Source: bohoki here at Atariage makes them) 2) An Atari/Amiga controller 9 pin to PC gameport controller adapter (Source: Ebay seller Ikonsgr74 makes them) 3) Best Electronics Atari Systems to Sega controller Convertor cable (Source: Best Electronics- call their 800 number to order) 4) A Tototek Joypad Counverter (Version MD). This allows Playstation controllers to work on a 9 pin port of a Sega Genesis. (Source: Tototek website) Alternate method: Replace adapters 1,2, and 3 with a Masterplay Clone adapter, and user the Tototek with it. One more method: Use a PC gameport to 5200 15 pin controller adapter with an Innovation SmartJoy Emulator adapter (Playstation to PC gameport adapter). The latter adapter is not easy to find at a reasonable price these days. If you want to see a presentation/tutorial on this, here you go:
  18. ...just what the title says. I sold the only one I had several months ago and I'm itching to start playing again. LMK if you guys have one that you wouldn't mind parting with. Thanks! Edit: I'm also looking for a Microsoft branded Xbox controller (s type)
  19. Just wondering, those famiclone controllers come in many sizes, shapes and configurations. A few of them are very comfortable as they mimic a Playstation controller. Would there be any way to convert their Sega Genesis style plugs to use them in a real NES or Famicom console?
  20. Picked this up free and was wondering what it was for. Clearly it's been scavenged for parts but I thought I'd see if it was something I oughta try fixing or maybe someone else would want it if it wasn't something I could use. Atari controllers probably connect to one end. All I know is it certainly isn't a ti 99/4a adapter. Maybe trs 80? Some pictures inside and outside.
  21. So I've been thinking about getting an autofire adapter for the 2600. I've found 3 different ones, all in the same price range. I thought I'd see if anyone here has experience with any (or all) of them. The 3 I've found are- PointMaster Fire Control Gemini Rapid Fire Lazer Quick Fire The Gemini and the Lazer both have adjustable fire rates via a dial, the PointMaster does not. The Lazer also has a length of cable, so it doesn't stress the ports on the 2600. Considering that, Those two already have the advantage over the PointMaster, but if anyone has a PointMaster Fire Control, and likes it, I'd still like to hear about it. If there are any others, that are easily found for a reasonable price, I'm open to hearing about them too. I know there are homebrew adapters out there, but I don't figure I can get one of them any cheaper than I can get these for.
  22. Hi, I used to collect Atari computers and PCs of similar age and I've been getting rid of most of my old collection since I've fallen out of the hobby. I really like the way the SM124 monitor I have looks though and was wondering if there was any way to connect a vga or other sort of slightly more updated video connection to it. I've found adapters online but they all seem to be so that you can use a VGA monitor with an Atari ST, I'm searching for the opposite of that basically. Any information about adapters, mods, or why what I'm asking isn't feasible or practical would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  23. ** UPDATE ** I DON'T HAVE ANY MORE "NTDE" BRAND CONVERTERS; BUT I MIGHT HAVE OTHER USED ONES AVAILABLE IN GENERIC BRANDS, SO JUST PING ME IN ANY CASE! THANK YOU! --------------------------------- Hi! I have some FAMICOM to NES converters for sale. (I might be getting more) They are in great condition, they look almost unused - contacts are sharp and bright. Tested in NTSC NES and famiclone - working fine. They show a little bit of storage wear. Brand is NTDE so it's not a very "cheap" item. They come boxed. Box has wear and might have some torn parts. Price for each converter is $26.99 USD. Shipping costs are $5 USD to USA and $7 USD rest of the world with the exception of Australia, Japan, Russia which is $9 USD. Item ships from Mexico - You're dealing with a honest Gamer, so don't worry. Payment is through paypal. PM me for details if interested. Thank you!!
  24. Good morning, AtariAge'rs! Has anyone ever found or developed a replacement adapter that will allow ICD's MIO to be connected to the 130XE? If so, could you point me to where I can purchase one? Thank you, in advance! --Timothy Kline
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